TLR 22 Build and Set-ups - Page 32

syllag1969 · #**621** 21-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by cryer-evo

ok thanks for the info i will have to get some stonger balls and some thread lock .

has any one tried the gear diff in there 22 and is there any benefit to running one ?

Don't forget also to put the diff screw facing on the good side: if mid motor 'helper side' , if rear motor 'driver side', this is very important and should allow you to adjust and thigten your diff without threadlock

kayce · #**622** 21-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by syllag1969

.............this is very important and should allow you to adjust and thigten your diff without threadlock

Why would you not use threadlock, unless it's to show how to lose a race when the diffnut gives up the ghost?

Gnarly Old Dog · #**623** 21-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneKiwi

Q time.
Im swapping over my 22 from rear to mid motor for the impending indoor season to kick off.

My question as of now is to do with antisquat.

P 23 under the hinge pin brace TLR1065
Is this is where I put the anti squat shims TLR2044

What about in the brace? Do I have to have the equivalent IN to what I place under the brace?

2mm under 2* in?

Is this where I add more shims if I want more or less A.S.

With the mid motor is it going to make a lot of difference if I have the HRC or LRC? as I don't have a HRC just now

OneKiwi - yes - you place the equivalent number insert in the middle of the front suspension block to suit the anti squat shim you have underneath the block. If you look at the inserts carefully, you'll see that they are all slightly different thicknesses. This ensures that when you lift the block to go from a 1 deg shim to a 3 deg for instance that the actual surface that the gearbox locates on doesn't lift. The 3 deg insert is thinner than the 1 deg insert.
Make sense?

You'll also need to replace the short M3 screws that you have been using to secure the hanger block with longer screws as they now need pass completely through the insert and into the gearbox moulding.

As for which RC block - it's personal preference. I wouldn't worry to begin with.

Other hints or tips (and I apologise if you already know this) - you might find that other aspects of your setup need changing - I almost always run different roll centre settings at the front end of my mid car than I do on my rear car. I also find that invariably, I run a stiffer front spring on the mid car.

The mid car will handle and drive differently to the rear car - don't be surprised if at first you don't like it. If you've driven rear motor cars a lot, then it does take a while to get used to the way that a mid car drives - regardless of whether that mid car is a TLR, an X-Factory or I assume a DEX. You might want more rear toe angle to give you a greater sense of security to begin with.

Enjoy

cryer-evo · #**624** 24-10-2011

Went out with my 22 again last saterday
And I love it dos what I won't it to do all the time
The trick I have fond on the best way to drive it is to treat it like a touring car so wide line then tite for the apex then out wide again if you triy and drive like a mormall 2wd ie tite in snap around then on the gass again it can get a bit upset but on astro and you can drive it as you won't I love it but my god it eats tyres 5 runs and new tyres completey gone but I still love it

I am one of those guys that can adjust my driving to almost any car with out having to reily on car set up as to be honest I have no ideal what dos what set up wise

And this car is very very strong as I am a bit of a all our nothing type of racer so I do crash and normally big if you are ever about wene I am you will spot me as I will be the one having a crash at one end of the track and finishing it at the ether end in a masive cartwheel lol

drop4205 · #**625** 26-10-2011

Ran mine the first time as mid motor on a tight indoor carpet offroad track last night. The thing was crazy fast. Only issue I have is on power I have a slight push, other than that it is dialed. started with a setup close to Bobby Z second to last setup with mini pins and stagger ribs. Any ideas?

rcjunky · #**626** 26-10-2011

less antisquat maybe?

cryer-evo · #**627** 26-10-2011

Get some schumacher mini pins on the front in yellow job done

Bob_Zahn · #**628** 26-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by drop4205

Ran mine the first time as mid motor on a tight indoor carpet offroad track last night. The thing was crazy fast. Only issue I have is on power I have a slight push, other than that it is dialed. started with a setup close to Bobby Z second to last setup with mini pins and stagger ribs. Any ideas?

Add 1 or 2mm to front inner ball stud or add more travel limiters in front shocks. I'm currently running 4mm.

Or as others suggest run more aggressive front tires. If you are using stagger ribs now give the new cut stagger ribs a try.

kayce · #**629** 26-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by drop4205

Ran mine the first time as mid motor on a tight indoor carpet offroad track last night. The thing was crazy fast. Only issue I have is on power I have a slight push, other than that it is dialed. started with a setup close to Bobby Z second to last setup with mini pins and stagger ribs. Any ideas?

Since you've already tried the tire options most use, IMHO it could be one of a few things: typical set-up changes to address less rear traction (or easier rotation of the rear end), if it was "crazy fast" it's possible you're overzealous with throttle application, and if you are used to 4wd cars and not used to the normal "push" of 2wd cars you just need to slow down and adjust your driving style, or possibly trying some of the things I did in another thread here (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83822). Good luck

OneKiwi · #**630** 26-10-2011

On a tight indoor carpet track you may want to try out these slicks

2 TLR22 running them today, great tires and not had to add addative to the slicks like we had to on the panther or minispikes/pins that we cut/sanded down

drop4205 · #**631** 26-10-2011

thanks for the input. I am use to running rear motor of clay so carpet is a little different for me for a 2wd buggy and it was the first time out in mid format, but I like it so far. I will try the less squat in the rear to begin then the limiters in the front shocks. ran agains a b4.1, dex 210, and 4 other 22s all rear motor and I was .6 sec faster per lap and lapped everyone by 3 laps.
to those running mini pins yellow in front are u trimming the pins on edge of tire.

kayce · #**632** 26-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by drop4205

to those running mini pins yellow in front are u trimming the pins on edge of tire.

If you don't, you'll have a traction-rolling beast.

General theory is that: mini-pins = the most steering, cut-staggers = in the middle, staggers = the least (of the Schu tyres)

Just out of curiosity, what are you running for motor?

cryer-evo · #**633** 26-10-2011

I would try the mini pins standard if you have a lot of roll overs then cut the outer row of

drop4205 · #**634** 27-10-2011

off power at end of straight is where I can lift inside front tire if not cautious with the staggered ribs and a few time too hot in there I traction rolled. I am running on narrow front wheels with med inserts. I have a set of staggered cut ribs on narrow wheels I may try after the squat change. Would the cream pivot block help out and take the tlr brass off the back? just a thought

kayce · #**635** 27-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by drop4205

off power at end of straight is where I can lift inside front tire if not cautious with the staggered ribs and a few time too hot in there I traction rolled. I am running on narrow front wheels with med inserts. I have a set of staggered cut ribs on narrow wheels I may try after the squat change. Would the cream pivot block help out and take the tlr brass off the back? just a thought

That sounds kind of disconcerting, I haven't had that issue. What are you running for oils and springs?

cryer-evo · #**636** 29-10-2011

off power at end of straight is where I can lift inside front tire if not cautious with the staggered ribs and a few time too hot in there I traction rolled. I am running on narrow front wheels with med inserts. I have a set of staggered cut ribs on narrow wheels I may try after the squat change. Would the cream pivot block help out and take the tlr brass off the back? just a thought

have you tryed standing the shox up on the back ?
ie out cide hole on the tower

lynx75 · #**637** 31-10-2011

Hi All,

Are you aware of any kind of modification to do with the Inline spindles compared to the trailing spindles please? if any.....

Will the caster's spacer keep the same positition as the trailing position? My only doubt....

thanks.

Razer · #**638** 31-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by drop4205

off power at end of straight is where I can lift inside front tire if not cautious with the staggered ribs and a few time too hot in there I traction rolled. I am running on narrow front wheels with med inserts. I have a set of staggered cut ribs on narrow wheels I may try after the squat change. Would the cream pivot block help out and take the tlr brass off the back? just a thought

HRC block, and outer shock hole on rear arm should help quite a bit. It will keep the rear end flatter, and rotate better around a turn.

kayce · #**639** 31-10-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by lynx75

Hi All,

Are you aware of any kind of modification to do with the Inline spindles compared to the trailing spindles please? if any.....

Will the caster's spacer keep the same positition as the trailing position? My only doubt....

thanks.

No changes needed.

drop4205 · #**640** 02-11-2011

just ran the 33 mid with the sc10 gear diff last night and it was amazing how much the car transformed. I also moved the rear shocks out to the outside hole in the rear tower. I cant believe the gear diff would make the car feel totally different. I could turn under any other car on the track and rotate mid out was great. I turned 4 laps more than the second place car which was a 22 rear motor. I did notice that the mini pins wear quicker with the gear diff, but I can deal with that