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#121
04-01-2009
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Quote:
Thank you 
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#122
04-01-2009
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Stuuuuuuu need help!
It's 3 races I do where there's very little grip and every time the RB5 is pants. Today there wasn't any heating on and I struggled a lot just for grip. I started on the same setup as last time round as it got me two top ten runs, but this time I was 2s off the pace, the car lacked overall grip. So I tried your setup with the flipped rear wishbone mount etc and it was a bit better but still not very good. You have any suggestions?
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#123
05-01-2009
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Quote:
Arno, missed off the W5181-75 light green front springs as the hardest
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#124
05-01-2009
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Right I think I've narrowed the issue to the car's weight. Basically running Lipo and I did choose the heaviest Lipo in the Orion range, but it's still about 100g lighter than my cells. With the car being light to start with, it's now only 1480g and even the 30G i had added were not doing much.
So I'm curious to know how much your cars weights lads.
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#125
06-01-2009
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i am using an orion 3200 which has 80g of weight stuck on it
 i add a further 30g under the front steering rack. i used to have an additional 30g behind the battery and next to RX but have since removed them. using a standard Spektrum RX, futaba analog standard-size servo, LRP sphere and novak motor, i have no problem exceeding the weight limit (circa 1700g)  but i feel i need the additional wait to keep the car planted, seeing that i run in mainly dusty tracks, not high-traction tracks like you folks.
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#127
07-01-2009
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My RB5 is about 1695g - 1705g depending on whose scales it's on!!!!
Equipment used is Nosram Matrix speedo (heatsink but no fan) LRP brushless motor E4500 cells (6cell packs) Spektrum 3000 reciever HiTec HS925MG servo about 35g of lead in the nose, nothing anywhere else. The RB5 seems a real heavy weight so I am shocked your anywhere near the weight limit!!!
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#128
07-01-2009
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Well I'm running an orion 5000 lipo which weights 260g so that's a lot lighter than your heavy NiMH (I was only running GP 3700s previously), then I've put whatever electronics I had spare, so short servo which is lighter than a standard size and tekin FX pro which is a lot lighter than the sphere. I do have quite a fair amount of weight on the front, about 45g, and also my PT.
The problem I have is that there is no space for me to put any lead under the Lipo, so I have to find another way. Also I've swapped the steel turnbuckles for titanium ones for strenghtening purposes and I have the SP motor plate whih I wouldn't have got if i'd known... Lead putty is going to be my best mate 
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#129
07-01-2009
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Fab, I run the core 5000 and Ive got a lead plate under the lipo!
 All i did was put 2mm washers under the battery posts and now it fits. 
__________________
http://www.rprcdistribution.com
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#130
07-01-2009
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That is a good idea, see the problem is that not having built the car in the first place, I didn't even think that the posts were just screwed onto the chassis... Either way the carbon battery strap cures that issue and it should be on its way.
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#131
07-01-2009
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you can stick weights under the battery foam.
also .. glue them to the outer sides of the battery compartments . and in the 2 triangles on both sides of the chassis. the 2mm on the battery posts works very well without replacing the standard battery strap. i am also using titanium turnbuckles.
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#133
18-03-2009
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you wont belive me if i tell you, but i tq'd worksop using my petit setup so super thick in the oils etc. car was great to qualify with but i couldnt really fight in the finals with it so have made some changes for the players.
as for weights of the car im running a trackpower 4900, and although was brushed for the last worksop im now tekin'd up rspro, 6.5 track power ko 2123 servo spectrum reciever. needed to add about 40 grams to the car to get it above the weight limit. 20g on the servo 20g on the kit batterystrap on top of the square on it. have tried moving weight right forwards and back over the weekend and found it had an adverse effect so have it far enough forward to stop it wheelying but central enough to keep the balance
__________________
Nathan Ralls HPI, Custom Blitz, www.piraterc.com mr-o foams woop woop racing officialy keeping team toe out inline
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#134
11-04-2009
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My car weighs in at right around 1510-1512g. Orion/KO speedo, Orion brushless motor, Futaba FASST reciever, Orion 1409 servo, Lunsford turnbuckles, 14 grams in nose, 14 grams at rear of car (7 in each rear triangle), Orion 3800 Lipo, and aluminum CVD's.
__________________
Steve Butts Team Durango USA, AKA Racing, Speed Passion USA,Racers Edge, Savox, TrackStar RC
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#135
04-12-2009
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Hello,
I've just bought a RB5 (I usually run a b44 ) I've posted a little summay of my story in the electric section . I run at a club wich runs on bare synthetic floor in a gymnasium (vinil plactic stuff) . It is incredibly slipery ... nearly gave up until I tried to change the stock tyre to mini-spikes with the B44 ... But it still is quite wild in the corners and hard accelerations . I've found a lot of set up charts for grass / dust / astro / carpet / clay etc but none really for that synthetic floor (and as it is a gymnasium it's a bit oily from the sweet of people  ). What kind of settup chart would suit that type of floor as a correct base to start off for the RB5 settings ? The b44 runs on a X12 6.5t I think it's overpowered I've ordered a SP 10.5T for the RB5 . The track is daily built and usualy very technical for example last monday there was 9 sharp U turns in the same lap with appart from a straight line of about 60ft the longest straights are 10ft max (plus two jumps in wood ). thank you very much
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#136
04-12-2009
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I will try to get you a set-up later ... I don't have my set-up folder to hand now but I remember having the car going really well at a track which was mixed carpet and polished floor ... the key to a fast lap there was getting the car to work on the polished and drive as required to manage the higher grip carpet.
(I do remember that I ran the car 1 spring softer than normal so that would be yellow #65 all round) If you don't hear anything in a couple of days shout again!
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#137
05-12-2009
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Thank you very much
I have received basicaly everything yesterday .I'm assembling the chassis . It is well conceived I like it . The only thing missing is the 10.5t motor which will arrive next week end perhaps or in two weeks . Do you think I can try just to drive the chassis a bit my X12 6.5t in it ? I might put it at 75% max power on my transmitter settings (The X12 6.5t is 400w the equivalent 10.5t is around 300watts a 25% difference top power) bad or good idea for a try out ? thanks
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#138
05-12-2009
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If all you are waiting for is the motor then I would suggest setting the speedo up to be very "soft" and run your 6.5 motor to start with.
Set the AMTS to 1 and the DRP to 1 or 2 Basically I'd set the speedo up as follows and start from there for your racing surface. 1 = 1 2 = 1 3 = 1 (NiMh) or 5 (LiPo) 4 = 1 or 2 (punch / smoothness control) 5 = 3 6 = 1 7 = 1 8 = 1 9 = 1 - 4 (experiment with this, motor timing can make a huge difference!!) 10 = 1 Give that a go As far as the car is concerned I'd try; longest links all round (except inner hole on the front hub) 2mm spacer under all ballstuds short wheelbase invert the forward of the rear hinge pin holders (reduces anti-squat) shocks mounted in outer holes on the wishbones, mid on towers oils / pistons / springs front (30wt / 2C / Yellow #65) rear (30wt 2B / dark yellow #60) put about 40g in the front bulkhead give that a go and let me know how it drives 
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#140
05-12-2009
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Quote:
If you use the settings I have given you then the car will feel very easy to drive ... turn things up as you see fit when you get used to it. I always keep the EPA on the throttle set to 100% and try to use the EPA connected to my thumb .. not always with sucess but its a great way to build throttle control skills
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KYOSHO
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