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Old 22-12-2014
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wookieewonder wookieewonder is offline
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Default Car glitching, indoor racing

Hello I'm after some help on solving glitching problems. Car has been fine racing outdoor all season untill moving indoors were it has a slight intermitant glitching problem. Every few laps the throttle will stay on for a fraction of a second too long or the steering will cut out just momentary. It only seemeds to happen at indoor venues. Outdoor meetings it's fine and on the bench in my house / down the local car park for a test run it never glitches , not even at a large range .

I've fitted a power cap to the rx, this has stopped the steering cutting . Have lowered the esc punch too from max (9) to 7 seemed to help a bit. It seems to happen the most after a straight on the track. I'm on 2.4gh (flysky fs-gt3c) trackstar 120a, turnigy digital brushless servo , trackstar 8.5t,

Are rc cars more prone to glitching/ radio interference when racing indoors? Thanks you for any advice
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Old 22-12-2014
mattr mattr is offline
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Yes they are more likely to glitch. Power cables, metal structures, lights etc.

Also more likely to notice, narrower track, tighter corners, more grip (sometimes)
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Old 22-12-2014
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Had similar issues with my car and power cap sorted mine, what batterys are you using
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Old 22-12-2014
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Paul Field Paul Field is offline
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We had this recently with a guy at our club.
We tried fitting a power capacitor and it didn't solve it.
It turned out to be that he had fitted a new high power digital brushless servo. When he changed back to the kit servo the problem went away.
He was running a turnigy esc and motor.
He now has a Hobbywing V2.1 and this runs fine with the brushless servo.

Good luck with solving your problem.
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Last edited by Paul Field; 22-12-2014 at 11:09 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 22-12-2014
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Have you tried lowering your battery cutoff down to 2.6/2.8 volts per cell as sometime when racing indoor the higher speeds and traction put more strain on the electrics compared to outdoor and you may be having momentary drops in voltage which causes the issues (the batteries will be ok at these settings as they will still fail safe and recover above 3 volts)
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Old 23-12-2014
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Thanks for the responses guys, much appreciated. The batterys i'm using are turnigy nano a spec 4200 shorty 65-130c.

The servo is my new piece of kit, I've checked with a volt meter the amp draw of an old slow servo - 100mA . New digital servo , 1.75 amps draw!! So they are def power hungry, and this is operating it on a bench with wheels off the ground. Maybe my esc 3amp bec can't handle it with the punch turned up to max on high grip carpet / tight start / stop track. Think lowering punch setting and more sensible boost start rpm are the way to go. Will also try lowering the low voltage cut off from 3.2v to 3v or off to see if it helps , I never take much charge out of a pack during a 5 min heat. Thanks again
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Old 23-12-2014
mattr mattr is offline
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Sav÷x servo?

They eat amps.
Made worse if you have a Spektrum radio, they don't have many spare amps......

I don't use Sav÷x servos anymore, there are many other (better) options out there if you shop around.........
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Old 23-12-2014
SlowOne SlowOne is offline
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Once again I find Matt and I are in agreement! More problems like this are caused by cheap, power-hungry servos than any of the good, low-cost speedo and motor kit.

I run 12th scale where the radio kit is crammed closer than any other class and yet we rarely have any trouble. The key difference is that we need a small, highly accurate and reliable servo and our class is dominated by the best servos that cost more.

This is a class where Futaba and JR servos dominate because... they are small, reliable and accurate with low current draws. They are relatively expensive compared to the rest, but they last a lifetime. My Futaba 9602 servos (now replaced as my 2.4 radio needs a digital servo - Futaba 9650 now installed!) are still perfect after more than 20 years in a 12th car.

Servos are one area where you really do get what you pay for. Pay more, pay once, get the best performance and never buy one again - unless the radio gear changes!! HTH
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Old 24-12-2014
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I absolutely agree with the above.

I've still got my Futaba 9401 from the 90s and it works just fine.

I've got the Futaba BLS range of brushless servos in all race cars, both standard and low profile, and they never give a moments trouble.

Yes not cheap but in the time I have owned my oldest BLS servo (which was actually bought 2nd hand from Ryan who used to work at JE) I've watched many people replace servos where the trusty Futaba just keep on going.

Also I'd never have anything but Futaba in any of my aircraft.
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Old 15-03-2015
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Thought I would bump this old thread as I have finally sorted the problem and this will hopefully help anyone else with a similar issue.

Turns out it was my neutral deadband setting on the esc.

It's the last thing I would dream of checking but def the problem!

I use a cheap radio (flysky gt3c) and i think its the pots that are the problem.
I found this info from team Novak. According to Novak , dead band can affect steering as well as throttle??!

http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/35

I had the esc deadband set it to 1% that's when it stared paying up ,but I had no idea because I changed so many other settings on the speedo at the same time. 1% is so sensitive it would make throttle blip just by turning the tx on and off. Also if I span the wheels by hand it would 1/2 throttle for almost a second!

3% is default on the esc and it make the throttle and stearing glitch occasionally during a race day .

Set it today to 5% dead band , all glitching gone! Really good days racing!

So if you have a glitching car and your using a cheepo radio, esc dead band settings maybe worth a check.
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