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#1
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B4.1 Problem any ideas anyone? (Weird Noise)
Hi,
I have had my B4.1 for a couple of weeks now and I have taken it out twice. no major incidents but I seem to have developed a granching type noise at low speeds which Im pretty sure it was silent at slow speeds on my first run out (apart from the r2d2 tweets from the motor =D). I am new to R/C stuff so I have not really any experience with stripping/building so just wanted some advice. I took all the wheels off to make and check they were on ok and check all the ball cups. When i put it back together I still had the noise. I am at a loss at to what to do next so was hoping someone could give me some advice. It still seems to run ok but just doesnt sound healthy , going to be gutted if I managed to break it in 2 runs =C. Also wanted to ask if its normal to have a little wheel wobble in front wheels, if I freeroll them with my hands there is a slight wobble on the wheels. I made sure they were tight on so its not loose. Thanks in advance for your help. |
#2
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Not sure if this works but I added a video onto my facebook and set it so everyone can see it.
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?...p?id=826803227 Hopefully you guys can hear what I am talking about |
#3
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Have you checked ur diff is tight after its bed in
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#4
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Hi thanks for reply how do i check that?
Sorry im totally new to this |
#5
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Another problem now =C (i suck at this lol)
I thought i would readjust the slipper clutch, by follow the manula to reset the nut so its at the end of the rod, but when i tried to retighten it the three turns it just stays in the same place? Any suggestions? Getting so frustrated not as simple as i thought lol |
#6
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Sorted the slipper clutch now and no adjustment would make the noise go away, so maybe it is the diff but I have no idea where or how to check that =C
P.S In the manual it say to do thre turns on the slipper clutch nut is that a full revolution ( i.e from 12 o'clock to 12 o'clock) or is one turn from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock. |
#7
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did you build this?
one turn is 360 degres diff adjustment is in the manual
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#8
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Quote:
I will recheck my manual but i couldnt see anything in there earlier, google didnt provide help either. |
#9
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The B4.1 RTR should have a gear diff, so I don't believe that you can adjust it.
Can't access that link you posted, is the sound definitely only at low revs or is it there all the time? It's possible the motor moved and the gap between spur and pinion has closed up. Would be worth checking the mesh anyway. If it's not that is it brushed or brushless motor in there? |
#10
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Yup rtr has gear diff.
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#11
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It is a brushless model.
When you say gear mesh do you mean the cogs underneath the plastic cover? If is I checked that they lined up ok when I readjusted the slipper clutch The noise is most notable at low speeds but u can still hear it at high speed too just not as bad. K i started a youtube acct so i could add the video that way, hopefully this link will work: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HqvPWCkGpY |
#12
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The clutch gear is the spur and the motor gear is the pinion.
It's difficult to tell from that video, but it does sound like the mesh is a little tight. There should be a little play between the two gears, just not too much! It's very difficult to explain this over the internet, do you know of anyone near you that could help? (or your local club?) |
#13
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Not joined any clubs yet but its something I will do, I have one friend who hopefully may be able to help.
Weirdest thing as was silent on first run then on second the noise started. |
#14
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That's why I was wondering whether the motor had moved, perhaps after a heavy tumble, it only has to move a fraction for the mesh to be wrong.
Good luck, I'm sure it'll be great once it's sorted. |
#15
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Losen the motor two screws at top and bottom then place a peice of paper between the pinion gear(on the motor) and the spur gear (the big black one) and push them together and tighten the motor screws. This will give you the right mesh there should be some backlash between the gears (slight movement). Remember to take the paper out after LOL.
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#16
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K , i will find these motor screws and give that a go.
Just to check before i start the gear mesh is the bit of plastic inbetween the motor and the slipper clutch? (as ins motor --> Plastic--> slipper clutch and the smaller cog) Ty in advance |
#17
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the spur gear is the larger gear, which also has the slipper clutch at part of its' assembly. The pinion is the gear on the motor.
Does that help? ... or was that something you already knew?
__________________
Andy Grason - Sponsored by G. Singh Racing. Team Whiplash DEX210 Tresrey | DEX410 v3 | My Paint Work | My Trader Feedback |
#18
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Quote:
Cheers I'll have a go at it tomaz after work and let you guys know how i got on. |
#19
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nope - not quite.... the "mesh" is a term for how the pinion is positioned against the spur.
If you loosen the 2 motor screws and push the motor RIGHT up to the spur, then it will be too tightly meshed. Conversely, if you set the motor so the tips of each gear (pinion & spur) are only just touching one another, then it would be described as loosely meshed and you're then in danger of losing the tips of the spur gear. As said above, you're going for somewhere in between - the trick with the piece of paper sounds a good one, but not something I've done myself.
__________________
Andy Grason - Sponsored by G. Singh Racing. Team Whiplash DEX210 Tresrey | DEX410 v3 | My Paint Work | My Trader Feedback |
#20
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have you tried it with the arms as they would be if it were on the floor,it might be the drive shafts are at such a big angle
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