Opinions on the B5M Lite over B5M

[Chris Elworthy]

Hi guys,

I've been away from racing for several months and intend returning in the winter. Due to running on slippy/medium traction tracks through the winter I am looking at a regular mid motor design to race such as the B5m lite. How does the Lite compare with the regular B5m in terms of handling? Especially in lower grip conditions? I'm aware the regular B5m had loads of rear grip but maybe too much as most of them looked very pushy. Has the Lite addressed this problem and if so will it still offer enough forward traction on lower grip surfaces?


Thanks

Chris

[Pitman Ed]

Hello Chris, glad your (intending) coming back so quickly. We've been running B5M's for best part of 2 seasons. If you will be mainly driving on slippery surfaces during this coming winter, I'd go for the regular B5M. Although you could get round the track ok with both, the standard car provides a VTS slipper, 4 gear tranny, and motor on the better side for rear traction.
If you like the car well enough to keep it through summer on high grip, just add the 3 gear tranny conversion - cheap and simple to do, and makes an improvement. For one further step for very high grip tracks you could get the Red Obkos Low Rider conversion - Luke has just converted to that and he is well impressed.

[Chris Elworthy]

Thanks Eddie, is it possible to convert the regular B5m to the low rider conversion or do you need to have the Lite to do it?

What did Luke think about the Lite car? I've heard Luke was very quick with the Low rider at weekend


Chris

[Gupz]

You can only do it with the standard chassis. The lite chassis is too thin for the countersunk screws.

[Pitman Ed]

Yes it's the regular B5M chassis that you use for the LR conversion. Luke is certainly quicker with the LR on medium to high grip. On low grip you can easily lose the back end, but soften the suspension and tame the power, and you can cope.

Sorry a bit late answering; been at TORCH National. Luke qualified 2nd in E final with LR, despite losing two rounds due to a dodgy diff we eventually replaced. He's blaming his Pitman of course!

[Rob]

Where do you buy the lowrid3r conversion?

[Pitman Ed]

Red Obkos supplies it - look up redworkshop on internet or facebook.

[Gupz]

They haven't released the Lowrid3r yet because the idler gear is causing them some issues with extended run time. The 3 gear version uses a 42 tooth idler that is 3d printed. I had to get one made for it to test out for Red. So far it's worked without any issue, but I haven't given it a run of any longer than 6 mins.

The 3d printed gear would only last 8 mins before melting.

He may send you the 3 gear version if you are willing to pay for it and supply your own idler gear. If you do, give me a shout and I'll give you the details of where I got mine made.

The 4 gear lowrider uses the original associated idlers so, it's out for general release from Redworkshop. You should be able to find them on Facebook with a search

I've found the 3 gear version is very stable so far. It uses the spur gear shaft from the 3 gear associated gearbox. If you are getting one, you'll need it and the oversized bearing as well.

[PaulRotheram]

Low rider.. basically a yz2 chris.. so youd be barking up the wrong tree!

[OneKiwi]

THe new Lite version still has the ball cup problem,



Screwdriver and a pencil on sandpaper for the powder helped a LITTLE but not really as it should be

[Aire valley]

I doubt that the arms would lift that high with the shocks mounted..
Another question though....when would the gear diff be better , in both 3 and 4 gear boxes..? Just on high grip.? What are the advantages of the gear diff..?

[Stickygeko]

All I did with mine was once they were on the car, use a pair of pliers and gave them a nice firm squeeze.... been free ever since

[The Dark Knight]

Nothing wrong with my ball cups, very nice and free.