DIMEC Chassis

[dpackster1980]

I run the chassis for the first time last night some fast bits and some slow bits. First impressions, I'm not a fan. It has lots its agility and the back end seems looser. I got some cracking lap times but I was on the ragged edge and just wasn't able to do it consistently.

I'll give it another chance before I got back to standard. Good job the new shell fits both chassis.

How has everyone else found it?

[jo90]

Have a chat to DiscoStu on here. He runs the +8 Dimec and seems to swear by it indoors...his car is never slow and it looks to be on rails.

Do you have the soft chassis or the rigid one ? I know there are two types, perhaps if you have the harder one this might be causing the lack in grip ? Just a thought.

[Oops]

I have the same feeling !
I use the plastic chassis +8 on a gym floor/carpet indoor track.

not a fan after the first try.
I have to try a carbon standard chassis for the moment, but i will probably make a new test soon.

[Legacy555]

AFAIK
DIMEC chassis will flex more and create more grip on low traction surfaces.
DIMEC20 chassis is stiffer and more suitable for higher traction surfaces.

[h0m3sy]

See here for a description of both and changes....

http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-pits.php

[chet]

I have two cars built right now one with the DIMEC and the other with the stock chassis.

I run on four different carpet tracks, three are pretty small 11sec to 13sec lap times. On the small tracks I can run my cars back to back and I always pull faster lap times, with the stock chassis.

But on the really large track lap times 21sec the long chassis is way more stable!

Also keep in mind the DIMEC chassis is around 80 grams lighter! So this along is a huge difference!

I've looked at pics of Jorn's car on Durango's web site and runs a plus 8 Aluim chassis! Nice how he has one but they dont sell it?!? But the Euro series tracks are HUGE so it would be way better then stock!!!

[av4625]

the problems u r having with the new chassis is completely different to my experience, i have the dimec20 and its so much smoother and easy to drive i have even run it on a polished wood floor and it was awesome and its hard to run 2wd on polished woord floor! if u look up the setups on the TD site and look at track CVMCC or the dublin track and look for Aaron Vance thats me!

[h0m3sy]

Originally Posted by chet

I've looked at pics of Jorn's car on Durango's web site and runs a plus 8 Aluim chassis! Nice how he has one but they dont sell it?!? But the Euro series tracks are HUGE so it would be way better then stock!!!

Exotek are releasing a +8mm alloy chassis real soon

[AfroP]

Originally Posted by h0m3sy

Exotek are releasing a +8mm alloy chassis real soon

RDRP are dropping a +11 alloy chassis later this month

[dpackster1980]

Originally Posted by jo90

Have a chat to DiscoStu on here. He runs the +8 Dimec and seems to swear by it indoors...his car is never slow and it looks to be on rails.

Do you have the soft chassis or the rigid one ? I know there are two types, perhaps if you have the harder one this might be causing the lack in grip ? Just a thought.

It is the DIMEC and not the 20. Even the way the car looked as it was cornering was strange. I'm giving it one more chance as when I put a good lap in it was excellent. Over 5mins the stock chassis would've been better. The track was flowing with a slow chaciane section before the straight. The floor is varnished cork with some carpet.

[av4625]

u shud try the 20 more consistant

[chet]

like I said above the chassis is a lot lighter so try some weight in your car. Are you running a shorty pack or full size? When a car is to light it drives wierd.

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by chet

like I said above the chassis is a lot lighter so try some weight in your car. Are you running a shorty pack or full size? When a car is to light it drives wierd.

Hi,

I completely understand where you're coming from, and I use weights on rare occasions as a quick-fix myself when the car isn't quite right and I'm stuck for time.

But, a handling improvement due to the addition of weights would indicate that the car was previously overdamped, oversprung and/or a bad balance between front and rear suspension.

The top drivers that I have spoken to (Richard Cree, Richard Lowe and others - we'd all like to be as quick as those boys!) advocate that a light weight car will always be better -requires less traction, less forces in the suspension, carries more speed in the corners, less heat in the electrics, more efficiency, less tyre wear etc etc.

I've only recently weened myself off using weights, and although my regular setups made the car unpredictable and all it wanted to do was roll over onto its roof, once I reduced the damping and rebalanced the car by using a lighter lipo and positioning it right, the performance came back - and I'm quicker.

I'll agree, the car is harder to drive as it's not as lazy and unreactive as the weighted up car - but it is quicker.

It became evident at the oOple Invernational this year when I turned up with my DEX210 (standard chassis) weighing 1760g - car struggled for traction, took forever to change direction and destroyed tires. DEX210s at the top of the field were light (plastic chassis and some used lightweight 30c LRP lipo packs) probably around the weight limit (1590g?) and were nibble, needed bugger all traction to get moving, and tracked really well through the medium into low speed corners. The lighter cars also cleared the jumps using 8.5 turn motors, whilst I had to drop to a 7.5 to get the mid range grunt - this caused further low speed traction issues...

My advice is to aim light, and do your best to ween yourself of weight.

Just some food for thought....

[chet]

I agree in most cases I use shorty packs when I can. I've seen many video's on the Top U.S 1/10 drivers and they pretty much never use shorty packs on huge air time jumps and outs doors because of wind.

I've raced RC for 17 years now and what RC comes down to most of the time. For me anyways is having clean runs and a car you can drive with out crashing often.

I've looked up tons of 210 set ups and pretty much every set up with the top durango guys are running full size packs.

On small tight tracks I only use shorty packs. But large tracks like the Euro series. The have tons of air time and slippery jumps the heavier Aluim plus 8 and full size packs will be better. Look at Jorn thats all he ever runs is full size pack and Aluim chassis.

[av4625]

Originally Posted by chet

I agree in most cases I use shorty packs when I can. I've seen many video's on the Top U.S 1/10 drivers and they pretty much never use shorty packs on huge air time jumps and outs doors because of wind.

I've raced RC for 17 years now and what RC comes down to most of the time. For me anyways is having clean runs and a car you can drive with out crashing often.

I've looked up tons of 210 set ups and pretty much every set up with the top durango guys are running full size packs.

On small tight tracks I only use shorty packs. But large tracks like the Euro series. The have tons of air time and slippery jumps the heavier Aluim plus 8 and full size packs will be better. Look at Jorn thats all he ever runs is full size pack and Aluim chassis.

Jorn also used brass bulkhead 65g

[dpackster1980]

Well I removed the 20g under servo weight and it was amazing. No over rotation from the backend so I could carry a stupid amount of corner speed, it was planted and I could really push the car to the point where the tires were screeching through the twisty bits. It was more nimble because I could get the power down earlier and break later.

I left the evenings racing with a big grin on my face. I now like the chassis to the point that it isn't ever being removed.

[OneKiwi]

What track (pics) and surface are you using it on?
normal or 20 chassis?
tires?
shorty or stick?
full size lipo or LP
battery placement?
and lastly whats your set up like?

I am also really happy with my 210 on the stock chassis, our track is really tight and technical so the shorter wheel base is great.

[dpackster1980]

Originally Posted by OneKiwi

What track (pics) and surface are you using it on?
normal or 20 chassis?
tires?
shorty or stick?
full size lipo or LP
battery placement?
and lastly whats your set up like?

I am also really happy with my 210 on the stock chassis, our track is really tight and technical so the shorter wheel base is great.

It's varnished cork with carpet, we use it sparingly as it helps you drive faster.

Chassis - Normal
Batteries - Saddles down the middle
Tires - Schumacher Mini Spike, the transition between the surfaces is less harsh than with pins.
Battery Placement - Furtherest forward.
Front Shocks - 35wt (Associated), 6 hole @ 1.3mm
Rear Shocks - 30wt (Associated), 6 hole @ 1.5mm
Antisquat - 1.5deg
Toe In - 3deg
Caster - 25deg (I use the RDRP inserts to achieve it)
Wheel base - 2 inserts either side of the rear hubs.
Ride Height - 18mm (Front) / 20mm (Rear)

Due to the car being so light the damping doesn't need to be anywhere near as hard as the standard chassis hence the bigger holes in the rear. It's easier on the tires too because your not scrubbing them as much with the less weight.

[dpackster1980]

I forgot, dark red front and light green rear springs. Middle hole on the shock tower for both front and rear. Outer rear and inner front hole on the wishbone.

[FrogPrince82]

Originally Posted by h0m3sy

Exotek are releasing a +8mm alloy chassis real soon

Any idea when this may be?

The 11mm RDRP one looks stunning and the extra few mms should help make the car feel more progressive, but I would love to know about Exotek's longer chassis option before deciding which one to pay out for!