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  #21  
Old 29-07-2013
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Tested the yoko again and Im liking it more and more.

I have drilled yoko pistons
F 2x1.6 40wt
R 2x1.7 28wt?? (2cm 30 and 2.5cm 27.5 from a losi bottle mixed up)

I removed the weight from under the lipo but still have various sticky weights around the chassis

Im waiting for a set of AVID springs so I defo know what springs I have as Im unsure what these are:
Full colour yellow are the yoko ones but don't know what the others are. AE??

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  #22  
Old 29-07-2013
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That seems to be a Losi spring (To be more precise: TLR5176).
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  #23  
Old 29-07-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyaflake View Post
That seems to be a Losi spring (To be more precise: TLR5176).
Thanks, now at least I have a base to work from till the avid set turns up (with the doodas containers, thats why I got them )
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  #24  
Old 30-07-2013
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Are you sure they aren't yoko ones?
The guy I got the car from said he hasn't purchased andy AE or TLR ones
Could they be the stock ones and the others are purchased after?
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  #25  
Old 30-07-2013
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The picture look like Yokomo springs to me - Yokomo springs have less coils than the AE/Losi ones

Losi springs only put a small amount of paint on the top of the spring, AE big bores come with heat shrink of the appropriate colour for you to put on yourself.

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...html?limit=all

Personally i prefer the feel of the yoke springs over the AE ones as the progression of the spring is different between each brand.

Front i have Yellow, Blue and Red and Rear i have yellow, green and blue - softest through to hardest. Normally run the red spring wet and dry in mid and rear and the kit blue in the dry and yellow if its wet mid or rear.

I also played around with the pistons again the weekend and found a better setup where i could just throw the car into the corners without grip rolling - a few of my friends tried it after the meeting and said the same
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  #26  
Old 30-07-2013
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Don't say that and not post what you tried

I can't find yellow BB on any chart... why don't they have this somewhere?

I mean they have rear shocks pink extreme soft at 4.15 on the petitrc scale and the fronts at 2.6???
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  #27  
Old 01-08-2013
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Im trying yoko F 2x1.6 yok red and have R 2x1.7yok blue
Im going to try a 3 hole or even 4 hole in the rear for a little less pack.

Swaped out the cut staggered for worn nanobytes and it went even better no grip rolling

I also added 53gm under the saddles

Does it matter if a piston is not drilled evenly? I mean 2 holes on each side, what about if I do a 3rd hole inbetween them instead of doing a triangle form to them??
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  #28  
Old 01-08-2013
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You might introduce a bit of bending into the shaft as the loads will be uneven. Depending on how much clearance there is (pistons to shock body inner diameter) there could be some binding. Worst case will be when the shocks are moving fastest and you start to get some packing.

I don't know how big the loads are tho, so it may not be a problem.
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  #29  
Old 01-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneKiwi View Post
Im trying yoko F 2x1.6 yok red and have R 2x1.7yok blue
Im going to try a 3 hole or even 4 hole in the rear for a little less pack.

Swaped out the cut staggered for worn nanobytes and it went even better no grip rolling

I also added 53gm under the saddles

Does it matter if a piston is not drilled evenly? I mean 2 holes on each side, what about if I do a 3rd hole inbetween them instead of doing a triangle form to them??
Try the setup i have given you first - i wouldnt worry to much about the offset in the holes as ive ran that before with durango 6 hole pistons when i drilled 5 holes and it was fine
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  #30  
Old 01-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneKiwi View Post
Don't say that and not post what you tried

I can't find yellow BB on any chart... why don't they have this somewhere?

I mean they have rear shocks pink extreme soft at 4.15 on the petitrc scale and the fronts at 2.6???
That spring chart is a little out of date. There is no rating of the BMAX 2 springs to my knowledge anywhere unless soemone can speak japanese and ask Yokomo direct?

The BMAX 2 springs have less coils over the same length than the BMAX 4 springs so the ratings are out with regards colours etc

I bought the rear BMAX 4 green spring to try for the rear motor as i may need it on the clay next week at RHR to aid turn in - wont know until i get there as never ran 2WD on dirt before
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  #31  
Old 01-08-2013
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My setup was already really close to what you gave me so we are on the same path there which is good for me as I now know Im going in the right direction.

I think ill try 4 hole rears first and see how that is.

I might retry the xray pistons and shim them up so there is no up and down movement as they are a touch thinner.
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  #32  
Old 04-09-2013
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I have now put on the alu chassis and the other nice blue bits up front including the brass weight.

Loving the car and how its handling, however I see that a lot of people run the cut staggered fronts. Don't you have crazy steering?? I had to swap them out to some well used nanobytes with the outer row cut off.

I have AVID batch 2 purple, AE1.6 piston and 35wtAE front
AVID B2 white AE1.7 piston and AE32.5 rear

We have pretty long astro so that may be the reason.
What are you all using for fronts on astro?
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  #33  
Old 04-09-2013
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Your right, the car has plenty of steering.
I was using green normal profile cut staggers that are aged so the compound is harder, but the astro I ran on was very high grip.
New astro has since been layed and I found using half worn yello slim mini spikes has been very good, not edgy but consistent grip.
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