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#1
25-08-2012
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Clutch slipping even when fully tightened
Hi all, I have a one meeting old TLR 22 and when I try to set the slipper before re-using it I cannot get it to stop slipping even when fully tigthened. I found online that some springs were smaller but I've mesaured mine with a vernier and it's 12mm so it would seem the right one...
Any ideas? I've tried flipping the pads already and rebuilding it several times 
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#2
25-08-2012
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sounds like its contaminated or pads are glazed.
is there any polishing to plates? I clean pads with a flat scalpel blade which removes glazing and gives them a 'key' to help bed them in better and clean everything with automotive clutch/brake shoe cleaner... never had problems with kit parts... always compress a new kit spring with pliers etc to get it 'working' Have you tried replacing the nyloc nut? it may feel like it's tightening but be spinning under any load? have you got grease/lube leaking from gearbox into the slipper unit? i use 35wt shock oil on gears to make the box quieter and slow wear... but only a little drop rotated through gears so gears have a shine, they are not dripping wet! Only other explanantion could be the diff slipping rather than clutch?
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#3
25-08-2012
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mine need only a very little tension.
I would use 1200 grit and sand the slipper pads slightly. Clean everything with brake cleaner. My guess would be the diff. The slipper spring puts some massive tension on the pads when fully tightend, I would never ever tighten it even half ways. And even if it is glazed and oily it should not slip much. Some slipper use teflon/ POM slipper pads and they have less friction without oil on it so my tip is the diff. As chimp said compress the spring first!
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#4
25-08-2012
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Quote:
Even with your pads glazed you should be able to lock the slipper.
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#5
25-08-2012
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The spur spins when it's "slipping" so I thought it HAD to be the pads slipping? The diff is loose at the moment as I wanted to adjust it at the track.
The pads are a little shiny. I'll sand them a bit and clean everything else with brake cleaner. Also the plates are indeed shiny. How can I remove that?
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#6
25-08-2012
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Hi Jamie, it's your diff mate not your slipper. I had exactly the same problem with mine until I tightened the diff nut right up, works perfectly now.
Give it a try pal, I thought mine was tight enough at first, but when you run it for a while it might have loosened up a bit. You getting back into 1/10 then?
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#7
26-08-2012
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I would always recommend to set the diff first and THAN the slipper because the diff setting affects the slip too.
What is the sound like?  a BSSSS or a BRRR BSSS is slipper BRRR is diff  It is really hard to see the slipper slip, but if it slippes it gets very hot after one or two short slips. So you can try with your finger, but be careful. Just clean the diff plates, dont sand them because they soulnd not sand down the diff pads IU would leave tham as they are.
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#8
26-08-2012
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Just tried to tighten the diff as it was loose, not sure if this is the issue though. Got half a turn on it and the tip of the screw has stripped. I can't afford to buy another plus postage (and won't get one by Tuesday anyway!) so that means I can't race again.. 3 weeks on the trot now.. Think I'll just get a gear diff. Had more problems with the ball diff than any other I've owned.. Can't understand how the tip can even strip like that..
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#9
26-08-2012
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it is hard to help you without seeing everything but I never had this problem in any car. Looks like you overtightend the diff. Did you sand the diff rings first and compressed the diff spring? And used the right grease everywhere?
Without sanding it and using wrong grease it will always slip. You can have a look at some youtube clips how to build it. The TLR diff is super good to be honest but the gen2 Diff nut is a nice to have.
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#10
26-08-2012
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I built it as per Matt's vid and I don't think I over tightened it as it was very loose. It's the top 1 or 2 threads on the screw that have gone so would have been just in the nut very slightly. I'm going to get a rebuild kit with fresh balls and screw etc. I'll upgrade to ceramic balls once I feel confident setting the diff.
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#11
26-08-2012
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Quote:
 Screw heads, especially small ones, have been known to strip, especially when you don't use the correct size hex driver on them. I don't really understand it, as this is a screw that shouldn't really be messed with often enough to strip the head.
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#12
26-08-2012
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Robby: the threads not the head.
Acksaw: did you compress the spring first? It is sometimes to long and too stiff when not compressed first. So maybe it had just two threads in but too much tension. I dont have any tension on the first two threads. You can use a Associated screw diff nut set too, that should be enough if you didnt run it jet. 10th can be a bit frustrating at the beginning but ball diffs are great and easy once know how to set them and how to build them.
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#14
29-08-2012
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lol after posting and posting I got with a new built 22 to the track and had exactly the same problem. New kit, midmotor. Than I checked my rear motor 22 and the slipper is much softer but ok.
So you are not alone any longer I will try the associated slipper clutch and let you know.edit: Seems to be the slipper pads, I tried the team C spring which is even a bit stiffer and still have the problem.
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#15
07-09-2012
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Frank Root from TLR advices not to compress the slipper spring first and not use old sprinsg that were compressed once!
I measured all my TLR slipper springs and the one that made problems is much shorter than the ones that work. So you can: buy a new TLR spring, try a teamc spring, use the AE slipper.
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#16
16-09-2012
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Maybe it will help somebody with this problem, so some "news":
The Team C spring is made for teflon pads so it is a bit softer than what we are looking for in the 22. If you dont want to buy the Triad clutch or the complete associated clutch you can just buy two Associated V2 slipper springs and use the two steel washers and one spring (use dremel on one washer). Washer, spring, washer. If it is a bit too tight you can sand one slipper plate down on the nut side. This should be the cheapest solution without having to worry about a spring that might get too soft. If you decide to go for the AE clutch you can use a wide range of spur gears. AE and Tamiya. For stock racing this should help too!
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