Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[ralphee]

Santa still has the kit but managed to pinch the shell :)

Santa wouldnt let me nick my shell lol, still ill send it to Jon in the new year!

lee

[A.J. Gee]

I think i have a warped spur gear. I have only been running a 19t spec motor in my durga and now when i look from above while spinning the spur gear, it goes back and forth. Has anyone experienced this problem with this vehicle or any other vehicles in the past?

[jimmy]

any idea if it was like that before you started racing? are the large 'Hex' things locked in on both sides properly?
The Tamiya spurs are fairly thin but I've not experienced any warping myself I have to say.

[A.J. Gee]

The funny thing is that i havent even raced it. And im pretty sure it wasnt like that when i first started using the car. Im gonna double check the hex things on the side tomorrow and see if that may be the problem. Im pretty sure those are on there just fine. but i will double check that and maybe some other things. Im thinking that i may have not had the motor properly screwed in when i was making adjustments, causing the pinion to not be in sync with the spur and causing it to bend.

[Carlos69]

Any luck with the weather and getting those final photos for the review Jimmy ?

[DCM]

jeex Jimmy, do you sleep?

re: spur gear, I find the stok one rather noisey on the Durga, so I am going to slap a B4 one in it.

[A.J. Gee]

Mine is very noisy as well. So the b4 spur will work with the DB-01? Is it the stock spur for the b4 that your gonna use?

[jimmy]

People say the B4 spurs will fit - I've not tried it.. The B4 spurs are wider so unless the chassis is too close then it should work no problem.
Not sure about the kit B4 spur (81T) but the 87T from the truck should be a better choice in terms of gearing anyway.

[jimmy]

Any luck with the weather and getting those final photos for the review Jimmy ?

Nah- was up really late (early!) on sat night, so I missed the sun on sunday :(
Vickys working and I've no one to drive the car. The review is done more or less, just needs splitting up into pages and some nice photos adding.

[DCM]

I shall try a spur in it this afternoon Jim.

[DCM]

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/tamiya%20db01/TamSpur02.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/tamiya%20db01/TamSpur01.jpg

B4 spur fitted

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/tamiya%20db01/B4spur02.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/tamiya%20db01/B4spur01.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/tamiya%20db01/B4spur03.jpg

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j271/DCM71/tamiya%20db01/DSCI0007-1.jpg

[jimmy]

awesome - thanks Steve ! I put it on the gear chart that the DB01 can use the AE spur, so good job it can! :) now - if someone can tell me if it will fit the 96? :)
I've got to rebuild my car with the slipper so I'm sure I'll test that out, but my guess is a no

[DCM]

sorry about the blurry pis, Macro was being awkward (glad me finger nails were lean though... I should do them magazine shots where the bod builder got to hold something lol)

[A.J. Gee]

Thanks for the pics DCM. That is the 87T spur that you have got in your photos am i correct?

[DCM]

it is the 81 as thats all I had without going out in the cold and damp to the shed lol, but it was more to prove fit and alignment.

[A.J. Gee]

So if i choose to go with the associated 87T i should be good to go?

[DCM]

I would think both would work, although you would have to look at the meshing of the smaller spur and smallest pinion you can use.

[Toonz]

is it safe to run this car without a slipper if i'm just going to use a 23 turn motor?

how's the stock dogbones coming along so far? do they chew the diff joints away?

[DCM]

my diff joints are looking great afer about 30 minutes running, use some of the antiwear grease if you can.

23t motor should be ok without the slipper, but if it is a toss up between slipper, CVDs or shocks, get them in that order.

[jimmy]

is it safe to run this car without a slipper if i'm just going to use a 23 turn motor?

how's the stock dogbones coming along so far? do they chew the diff joints away?


I've run the car at 2 meetings with a 14x2 and everything is in perfect condition. The rear diff loosened off after the first meeting (I guess during the final) but after I tightened it up it's not done it again. I guess it was bedding in still.

I have the one way, slipper and a screw set for my Durga now - so I have everything I need to test it side by side with the 501X on a like-for-like basis (with 5.5 brushless systems)

[PaulRotheram]

oh oh, pick me :)

[DCM]

where did you get the screw kit (titanium?) from Jimbo

[jimmy]

its the alloy/ti one from Champ. It's 80% alloy from what I can see - not had a proper look at it tho. I'd get a set from Tonys if he does one - that would be a million times better than using the kit screws.

[A.J. Gee]

I was wondering if anyone could suggest the best place for me to pick up a slipper clutch? Preferably a site which offers the best price and shipping service? (to the U.S.) Thanks guys.

[Metla]

I was hoping to read the review first, But my will wasn't strong enough, Just ordered and paid for a Durga.

Hopefully its not as ugly in the flesh as it looks in the pics, Also my paint "skills" won't do it any favours.

And, Hopefully my 8.5 Brushless won't be too much for her seeing as no slipper is yet available, at least here in NZ.

[Carlos69]

I was wondering if anyone could suggest the best place for me to pick up a slipper clutch? Preferably a site which offers the best price and shipping service? (to the U.S.) Thanks guys.

seeing as no slipper is yet available, at least here in NZ.

I ordered my Durga slipper clutch from RC Champ, but Stella have them (last I heard just a few days ago)

[BloodClod]

Here's mine... so far it's lived up to expectations far more than the DF-03 did. Runs great... now waiting on shocks, slipper, cvds and a front one way...

http://www.cool.per.sg/external_links/tampinesbash/006.jpg

[quincey]

i dont know if anyone know's but 3 racing are doing a load of bits for the durga!!,just ordererd my slipper and one way for mine and a spare car as i broke the arm mount the other day at wrexham mcc.

[DCM]

be weary of some of the 3Racing stuff, some is tat, some is good.

[ralphee]

I have my Durga now, its a great looking kit. I have the one way and slipper so they will go right in, but i have to put the build off as im waiting on a Tamiya TI screw kit, should be here in a few days!

lee

[A.J. Gee]

If anyone is interested a store in the U.S. called radioshack is having a sale on 7.2V GP 3300 nimh batteries for $19.95 This is a deal of a lifetime. I have honestly seen the batteries sell for as high as $60.00 I noticed that a lot of RC companies (reedy) will slap their labels on these packs and sell them very high. The sale on these packs are good until 1|05|08. They regularly sell for $25.00 which is a very good price for quality cells. If you are smart you will not let this offer pass you up.

A.J.

[Spoolio]

I was wondering if anyone could suggest the best place for me to pick up a slipper clutch? Preferably a site which offers the best price and shipping service? (to the U.S.) Thanks guys.

Don't know if its any use but got mine ordered yesterday from rcmodel.hk

They seem to have most bits in apart from damper mounts which are "out of stock", and they don't list the CVDs yet - RC Champ emailed me that they were delayed from Tamiya but are now in stock, but haven't quoted a price.

[Spoolio]

its the alloy/ti one from Champ. It's 80% alloy from what I can see - not had a proper look at it tho. I'd get a set from Tonys if he does one - that would be a million times better than using the kit screws.

Tonys? Tell me more. Even though I've bought myself a new shiny new No.2 screwdriver, crossheads just don't look kosher on a racer and we all know 'proper' bits are worth at least half a lap (in my dreams at least).

On another note, has anyone tried a Trakpower lipo in the chassis? I dropped mine in loosely and it looks OK but I haven't built it up yet. Can't wait to get started but other things keep getting in the way like the Hotshot that Santa has left for me.

[94eg!]

If anyone is interested a store in the U.S. called radioshack is having a sale on 7.2V GP 3300 nimh batteries for $19.95 This is a deal of a lifetime. I have honestly seen the batteries sell for as high as $60.00 I noticed that a lot of RC companies (reedy) will slap their labels on these packs and sell them very high. The sale on these packs are good until 1|05|08. They regularly sell for $25.00 which is a very good price for quality cells. If you are smart you will not let this offer pass you up.

A.J.


Not one single Radio Shack on the west cost still carries the GP brand batteries any more for the last year. Now it's all generic versions with green cells inside. Don't be fooled!

[craigosh]

if anyone is after hex screws I've used these guys to get spare ones for the BJ4 and B4 -
www.modelfixings.co.uk Always quick delivery and when they didnt have 2 screws in to finish an order they sent me 5 to say sorry a few days later!! Just no Ti ones for the weight weenies

Anyone know if i'd get the mtroniks brushless in this? quite fancy getting one to add to my tamiya collection and i have a spare mtroniks system in me dead xxt!!

[A.J. Gee]

Not one single Radio Shack on the west cost still carries the GP brand batteries any more for the last year. Now it's all generic versions with green cells inside. Don't be fooled!

Dont worry brother, i will not be fooled. The package clearly says right on the package GP. I have been buying these batteries for about a year now. They are extremely good cells. I run them in all of my vehicles. Great punch to them and long run times. Thats weird that your radio shacks on the west coast dont carry them. Why dont you try going on to their website and buying them there?

[Carlos69]

Got mine today !...been tapping all the holes...got a right arm like schwartzenegger now ! :eh?:

[drinternat]

This is probably the wrong place to be asking this but what do you guys use as a Dremel. I mean do you use the proper "Dremel" named rotary tool or has anybody tried the ones they sell in Maplin. I am just about to get one and would appreciate advice.

[DCM]

I don't know.

Here is the mail of the shop owner named Andi

info@tamiyashop.ch

He hes been very helpful so far.

Can anyone give me feedback on this guy, I ordered the 501X shock parts from him and the tracking number wont track and all gone quiet.....

[budgio]

hmm thats who i ordered my slipper from

[DCM]

I know it has been over Christmas, but I can't even get royal mail or parcel farce to recognise the tracking number :(

Can someone please vouch for this guy?

[jimmy]

Not wishing to downplay your worry - but I've had stuff only start tracking AFTER it's been delivered by 'the farce' before.

[sosidge]

This is probably the wrong place to be asking this but what do you guys use as a Dremel. I mean do you use the proper "Dremel" named rotary tool or has anybody tried the ones they sell in Maplin. I am just about to get one and would appreciate advice.

Dremel brand ones seem better quality to me, more power and a more precise drivetrain than the £9.99 no name ones I have used.

[ralphee]

Guys

Anyone want a painted shell? I painted mine, but im not happy with the Hara colors, the job came out OK, few small seeps, but nothing major.
I want a clear shell in exchange so i can send it off this time round for painting, just fancied a bash.
Its painted with Faskolors and Tamiya smoked windscreen. Let me know if you want to straight trade, this one is cut spot on and with the hot weather cut outs in the rear.
PM me as not to deter the thread guys!

lee

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/ralphee/DB01body003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/ralphee/DB01body002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/ralphee/DB01body001.jpg

[drinternat]

Dremel brand ones seem better quality to me, more power and a more precise drivetrain than the £9.99 no name ones I have used.


Thanks Malky. I bought a "proper" Dremel. Good to see Durga review up but the link is wrong on the review page I think. Click the Durga link and it takes you to the Sanwa pages

[wayneski]

Can anyone give me feedback on this guy, I ordered the 501X shock parts from him and the tracking number wont track and all gone quiet.....

I bought my slipper from him before chrimbo. Not the fastest in the world but it did arrive ok. Not sure about the tracking number. I think it's some weird swiss post office not the farce!

[DCM]

as long as stuff arrives.

[94eg!]

Dont worry brother, i will not be fooled. The package clearly says right on the package GP. I have been buying these batteries for about a year now. They are extremely good cells. I run them in all of my vehicles. Great punch to them and long run times. Thats weird that your radio shacks on the west coast dont carry them. Why dont you try going on to their website and buying them there?

Just so your aware, it is an issue. Even when ordering from the net. Here are some reviews from Radio Shacks website...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&summary=summary&cp=&productId=2147160&accessories=accessories&kw=3300mah&techSpecs=techSpecs&currentTab=summary&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=3300mah&support=support&tab=custRatings#showReviews



When these packs first came out, they were made out of the GP cells which were great packs to buy but now they changed the cells to generics which are nowhere as good as the GP 3300 cell packs. Don't buy this pack unless you see the GP3300 logo on the batteries themselves in the stores.




RadioShack if you are reading this, keep selling these packs not the generic 3300 mah batteries! You have to sell what people want to run a business! It is the one thing thats makes me shop at radioshack! Happy R/Cing



The funny thing is that the newer generic packs still have the same part number on them. Therefore you would never know which ones your getting when buying over the net. Buy the GP brand cells in stores while they last. ;)

[A.J. Gee]

Just so your aware, it is an issue. Even when ordering from the net. Here are some reviews from Radio Shacks website...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?parentPage=search&summary=summary&cp=&productId=2147160&accessories=accessories&kw=3300mah&techSpecs=techSpecs&currentTab=summary&custRatings=custRatings&sr=1&features=features&origkw=3300mah&support=support&tab=custRatings#showReviews










The funny thing is that the newer generic packs still have the same part number on them. Therefore you would never know which ones your getting when buying over the net. Buy the GP brand cells in stores while they last. ;)
I was just wondering if you are aware of the fact that i purchased the batteries from radio shacks website? Well just to clear things up i have received the batteries and they are GP brand so all is good. Thanks for looking out though.

[94eg!]

Well that's really good to know. Perhpas they are phasing the generic ones back out due to popular demand or something. I'm gonna have to start checking around the local stores again...

Thanks...

[budgio]

3racing durga front shock towers now available at stella ;) (so it cant be long for the rear)

[mrbiccies]

3racing durga front shock towers now available at stella ;) (so it cant be long for the rear)



Look here for other 3racing parts....

http://www.3racing.com.hk/x_products.jsp?x_carkit_id=73&x_title=Optional%20Parts%20for%20Tamiya%20DB-01

[A.J. Gee]

I was wondering how often i should do maintenance on my differentials, such as re applying grease to the balls. Thanks.


A.J.

[Carlos69]

Just read the Durga review Jimmy, nice work ! your paintwork and camera skills are something else !!! :D and you pulled no punches....- I'll look forwards to reading part II with hop ups installed...my chassis underneath looked 'melted' too .. just finished building mine ~ waiting for the electrics and a few other hop ups to arrive....:wtf:

[sosidge]

I was wondering how often i should do maintenance on my differentials, such as re applying grease to the balls. Thanks.


A.J.

I only ever touch the diffs if they are not working right.

[DCM]

got my shocks through today, the front shocks give a lot more droop, so not to sure if that is a good thing at the moment, also, the kit that the Tamiya Shop is selling, is missing the white spacer between the two o-rings in the cartridge.

[ralphee]

I ordered the 3 racing towers direct last night, hopefully they will ship asap, thanks for the link whoever posted it!
Well so far so good on the build, ive now got the slipper in, one way fitted and the TI screw kit, Carbon towers on the way so i think now ill just wait it out for some TRF shocks!

lee

[wayneski]

Do the instructions come with the shocks DCM?
I have got most of the parts to make up the shocks, just waiting for the damper parts bag from Champ. No instructions with what I have got so no clue as to how they go together.

[A.J. Gee]

I ordered the 3 racing towers direct last night, hopefully they will ship asap, thanks for the link whoever posted it!
Well so far so good on the build, ive now got the slipper in, one way fitted and the TI screw kit, Carbon towers on the way so i think now ill just wait it out for some TRF shocks!

lee



Is Tamiya going to be releasing TRF shocks for the DB-01?

[ralphee]

Im led to believe so slave, if there not TRF theyll be a dedicated set for the DB01, but im sure somebody posted a link from Tamiya USA showing a listing for a racing factory set.
Its right in saying ths isnt a cheaper option in racing chassis, i still have the CVD's to buy along with shocks lol....ah the joys of owning a Tamiya lol, well at least it looks cooler than the B44, XX4 and Yokomo's!

lee

[A.J. Gee]

I have the slipper clutch, front one way, front/rear shock towers on order right now from stella models. My next upgrade and probably last is going to of course be a set of shocks. Im not going to nesacerily be going for the tamiya brand of dampers, but for another brand instead, due to the cost. I wouldnt mind getting a set of the b44 dampers. Does anyone know if they are compatible with the durga?

[ralphee]

Id follow your lead if the B44 fit well, if the Tamiyas arent racing factory, i can really see much improvment over the kit ones, just a bit of posh alloy and no performance upgrade!

lee

[A.J. Gee]

Yeah exactly. And as we all well know, the tamiya brand of dampers will be priced beyond what we all choose to pay for hop ups. Thats one thing about tamiya is the fact that their prices for hop ups are usually pretty high, but for kits the price ranges are very reasonable.
Im not sure if you or anyone else plans to purchase carbon towers from 3racing, but if you do i would suggest getting them from stella, as they are a bit lower in price. I chose to go with the shock towers and of course purchased from stella.

[ralphee]

LOL i already payed for them direct from 3, then i checked Stella, bummer lol.
Mind you Stella only had the front in stock at the time, so i just payed for the both at 3.
We'll have to seek info on the b44 shocks, sounds a good option and AE should be cheaper than the big T!

lee

[A.J. Gee]

Im sorry to hear that Lee. Oh well. At least you got the excuse that they didnt have both the front and rear at the time of purchase. It happens to the best of us. LOL. And yes, we will definitley look into the shocks from the B44, and some other manufacturers as well. Cant wait to get a quality pair of shocks A.S.A.P, as we all know they make a big difference in performance.

[DCM]

Do the instructions come with the shocks DCM?
I have got most of the parts to make up the shocks, just waiting for the damper parts bag from Champ. No instructions with what I have got so no clue as to how they go together.

sorry for the late reply. No instructions as really all I bought were the bits to make up a set of shocks as recomended from Tamiyashop, what you will need is the piston guide from a TRF shock rebuild kit, or really just buy the TRF shock rebuild kit and have a spare set of o-rings.

They build up real nice, the lower mountings a little hard work to get on the shock shafts but once built feel real good.

[DCM]

essential upgrade, alloy rear hinge pin carriers, I clipped a track marker today and out popped my hinge pin, alloys will prevent that.

[dr durga]

hi guys i just got a durga and was wondering if i should fit 501x shocks?? :eh?:

[DCM]

thats what I run today on mine and works fine, just got to source screws for the top fixing.

[wayneski]

essential upgrade, alloy rear hinge pin carriers, I clipped a track marker today and out popped my hinge pin, alloys will prevent that.

Are they available now? Do you know who has stock?
Other than that did it perform ok?

cheers

[jarkkom]

Wow! :)

http://copter.threewee.com/stilo/jotain/rc/kisat/minicup_1/slides/P1050632.JPG

[DCM]

I know 3Racing got some in the process of being made, but I am wondering if the TRF front blocks will fit?

[wayneski]

I know 3Racing got some in the process of being made, but I am wondering if the TRF front blocks will fit?


Anyone got any to try this? I can see a lot of crashing in my future!!

[ralphee]

Still much to do, but heres mine so far, got a nice Hara T2 to fit in, a Bluebird 617 MG and awaiting my Helios i got from ariel atom.
Cant wait to run her, but not sure what power to put in there, im new to off road racing and know jack on good OR motors!

lee

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/ralphee/DB01body005.jpg

[ralphee]

Anyone stuck for one ways, TI screw kits or slippers, there are some on ebay right now, i just checked so if your struggling to get them, get in lol!

lee

[Toonz]

just finished building mine last night, left the body for today....

i've strong arms and fingers now! :D:D:D

apart from having ball race steering, the car is 100% stock now, including the use of the silver can just to try out:rolleyes:

question....
tamiya suggested 17pinion to fit with the silver can or sports tuned. i realise that the pinion doesn't really sit align with the spur. is that normal?:confused:

[jimmy]

How do you mean ? can you get a photo to show?

[A.J. Gee]

I was wondering Jimmy, in your opinion, how do you think the Durga will compare to the Kyosho Lazer once it is properly hopped up? I have done the math for the total that i have put into this car which includes all of the following: Durga kit, slipper clutch, front one way, front and rear shock towers (3Racing), and soon to be a set of dampers. The grand total so far is approximately $300.00, which does not include the dampers. I have run this buggy so far and i absolutley love it. How do you think it will match up against its competition in proper racing form? Im sorry if some of the answers have already been mentioned in your review.


A.J.

[Toonz]

i don't have a pic now cos i'm at work but i did a quick lineart
to show the alignment circled in red.

http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/723/spurns7.jpg

my guess is that the silver can motor shaft is too short....am i right?

[Metla]

Toonz, Turn that pinon around the other way on the shaft.....

[Toonz]

i did try that, but it didn't sit align at the edge with the spur....strange......

[jimmy]

AJ, I don't want to say it's better than X car - especially something I've not tried like the ZX5-SP. If you're talking about the original Lazer - well that car has been around for over 2 years so I'd not hesitate to say the Durga is a more modern car. They are quite different cars though - and drive quite differently, so some of what people will say about them is down to personal preference.
I don't mind saying the Durga is up there with the best when it has those few hop-ups. If I was (and I am) upgrading this car to make it as good as possible, I'd get a screw kit (steel, Ti, anything - I got the alloy/Ti one from Champ), one way (my personal preference), slipper (I actually like it to slip when accelerating to make my car very smooth). I'd be interested in shock towers but I will wait and see what else appears rather than get the 3Racing stuff.
CVD's would be nice if you can find some for a good price - the dogbones in the kit work well, but aren't as bullet proof and can easily get lost in a crash.
I have the 501X shocks - but Tamiya will bring out a 501X shock kit for the durga next month so you don't have to buy it all seperately.

They will have an entire hopped-up car out some time also I'm sure of it, just like they did with their other budget racers, like the TA05. And that would put it firmly alongside the 501X.

I was talking to paul tonight about him racing the two cars back to back so I can get his feedback and laptimes. Just need to find a 5.5 or 6.5 lrp motor so I can have the same electrics in both cars to make it even.

[Toonz]

jimmy, any advice on the pinion spur issue? i've posted a lineart pic on the previous page:)

[A.J. Gee]

AJ, I don't want to say it's better than X car - especially something I've not tried like the ZX5-SP. If you're talking about the original Lazer - well that car has been around for over 2 years so I'd not hesitate to say the Durga is a more modern car. They are quite different cars though - and drive quite differently, so some of what people will say about them is down to personal preference.
I don't mind saying the Durga is up there with the best when it has those few hop-ups. If I was (and I am) upgrading this car to make it as good as possible, I'd get a screw kit (steel, Ti, anything - I got the alloy/Ti one from Champ), one way (my personal preference), slipper (I actually like it to slip when accelerating to make my car very smooth). I'd be interested in shock towers but I will wait and see what else appears rather than get the 3Racing stuff.
CVD's would be nice if you can find some for a good price - the dogbones in the kit work well, but aren't as bullet proof and can easily get lost in a crash.
I have the 501X shocks - but Tamiya will bring out a 501X shock kit for the durga next month so you don't have to buy it all seperately.

They will have an entire hopped-up car out some time also I'm sure of it, just like they did with their other budget racers, like the TA05. And that would put it firmly alongside the 501X.

I was talking to paul tonight about him racing the two cars back to back so I can get his feedback and laptimes. Just need to find a 5.5 or 6.5 lrp motor so I can have the same electrics in both cars to make it even.


Thanks as always for your knowledgeable insight Jimmy. You the man.

[Eddie168]

Hello everyone i've recently ordered a DB-01 from Champ RC and it will come in afew days can't wait and just wondering can anyone give me some tips on building this car? to make it run nice and smooth THX guys

[Carlos69]

Get a 3m tap to tap all the holes, and upgrade as u can afford, in order:Titanium screw set,Slipper clutch set, two sets of 8x5mm bearings for steering, front one way drive, steel cvd's front 1st, then maybe 3racing graphite shock towers-rear 1st, TRF501x shocks, pulley guide set+two 9x5 bearings..that's a good start.

[sim]

501X and DB01 owners,
How is the wear rate on your belts? I'm considering getting a Durga but I've seen a buddy with some pretty frayed belts after a few runs of his 501X, so that got me worried.

anyone?

[bender]

anyone?

Can't speak for anyone else but I personally never had any trouble with the kit 501 belt setup, in terms of wear or slipping, and the bigger pulleys on the Durga is supposed to be better still.

[scotoap]

Can't speak for anyone else but I personally never had any trouble with the kit 501 belt setup, in terms of wear or slipping, and the bigger pulleys on the Durga is supposed to be better still.

I agree with you M8, never had trouble in the past year either:)

[ralphee]

Just a quick post, if you fit the oneway and dont build the front diff, you can use the left over bearings to at least half ballrace the steering bellcranks!

lee

[Toonz]

my...DB01:D PS16...optimus prime blue...:p

http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/5937/durga2lb6.jpg
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/7306/durga1lv6.jpg

[wayneski]

lookin good toonz

[A.J. Gee]

Im thinking about purchasing the Mamba max brushless system for my Durga. Does anyone recommend this system? The only reason i ask, is because with all the brushless systems out now, its becoming more difficult to make a choice. Pros and cons on the mamba max are much appreciated. Thanks.


A.J.

[sim]

bender and scotoap,
Thanks. Sounds good. I shall not be able to resist the buggy for long then. Our LHS is hosting the Tamiya Asia Cup finals this year and we will have the buggy class running again for that. Eligible chassis are DF-03 and DB-01. I might turn my DF-03 back Tamiya-legal or get the DB-01. Think the DF-03 might be a little faster with the controlled motor though (Tamiya Sports Tuned).

[scotoap]

bender and scotoap,
Thanks. Sounds good. I shall not be able to resist the buggy for long then. Our LHS is hosting the Tamiya Asia Cup finals this year and we will have the buggy class running again for that. Eligible chassis are DF-03 and DB-01. I might turn my DF-03 back Tamiya-legal or get the DB-01. Think the DF-03 might be a little faster with the controlled motor though (Tamiya Sports Tuned).

Hi sim, my buddies son came 2nd in that series for the touring cars last year and will be back in his homeland Scotland by the end of January from the Philipines.:)
Not bad for a 7 year old boy I think, what do you say?
He did spend a year in the Tamiya Racing Drivers School though (previous year).:cool:
His dad and he will be trying buggies for fun initially when they get settled in back here.:rolleyes::)

[drinternat]

Looks good Toonz. That's what mine should have looked like (if i could paint)

[sosidge]

Im thinking about purchasing the Mamba max brushless system for my Durga. Does anyone recommend this system? The only reason i ask, is because with all the brushless systems out now, its becoming more difficult to make a choice. Pros and cons on the mamba max are much appreciated. Thanks.


A.J.

Get a sensored system eg LRP/Nosram/Novak.

Sensorless systems like the Mamba "cog" (stutter when the electronics miss the position of the rotor). It is an unavoidable aspect of the motor design. OK for bashing, but it will cost you in a race.

[sosidge]

jimmy, any advice on the pinion spur issue? i've posted a lineart pic on the previous page:)

You seem to have sufficient gear mesh according to your diagram so I wouldn't worry.

Normal short-boss pinions (the Tamiyas are medium-boss) fit better when fitted backwards in the Durga.

[sim]

Hi sim, my buddies son came 2nd in that series for the touring cars last year and will be back in his homeland Scotland by the end of January from the Philipines.:)
Not bad for a 7 year old boy I think, what do you say?
He did spend a year in the Tamiya Racing Drivers School though (previous year).:cool:
His dad and he will be trying buggies for fun initially when they get settled in back here.:rolleyes::)

Wow. 2nd in touring for a 7 year old is awesome! My son is 5 months old now, so I think I better start him up soon. Haha. Never heard of the Tamiya Racing Drivers School though. I don't think we have that here in Malaysia.

[Toonz]

Looks good Toonz. That's what mine should have looked like (if i could paint)

thanks :) took me a long time to get the blue evenly sprayed....masking the window is a pain in the A**! :wtf:

[Toonz]

You seem to have sufficient gear mesh according to your diagram so I wouldn't worry.

Normal short-boss pinions (the Tamiyas are medium-boss) fit better when fitted backwards in the Durga.

i've asked around and everyone is telling me that its fine too:) i've already changed to a dirt tuned with 23 pinion and its well aligned now....

[scotoap]

Wow. 2nd in touring for a 7 year old is awesome! My son is 5 months old now, so I think I better start him up soon. Haha. Never heard of the Tamiya Racing Drivers School though. I don't think we have that here in Malaysia.

Hi sim,
the school is in the Philipines and he won their section of the all Asia.

His dad used to race, but now is his pit mechanic, but has just aquired a new B44 for his self, providing his son does not pinch it Ha ha.

Your right, the old addage says get them young and they will learn faster, so good luck with the youngun, hope his mum agrees too.:)

[DCM]

any of you guys want to get rid of your kit tyres?

[serjames]

noob question as well as my first...

if I wanted to run one of these on rough tarmac / concrete, what tyres would you recommend - I guess the pin spikes will just be wiped ut within 10 minutes ?

SJ

[jimmy]

Probably the kit tyres to be honest, they should last pretty well, they are meant for bashing like that. Can't say how long they'd last but a damn sight longer than some 'schumacher mini spikes' or similar - the closely packed spikes should last pretty well and they are fairly hard.

[serjames]

Cheers for the quick reply :)

Looks like I'll burn through these first then...

Do they do "touring Car" type tyres made to 1/10 buggy scale ?

I've seen some "truggy" type tyres which look similar to normal car tyres, Would they be more hardwearing ? Thry look a little TOO big though.

SJ

[budgio]

I think proline dirt hawgs may be what you are after then;)

[serjames]

now THAT's what I had in mind :)

SJ

[A.J. Gee]

Pro line dirt hawgs are way too big for a buggy like the Durga. Trust me, i have those tires on my stadium thunder and even on that truck they are big.

[Doomanic]

Dirt Hawgs are available in truck and buggy sizes.

[A.J. Gee]

Yes you are correct. My bad.

[Metla]

My thoughts.

http://www.mrccc.org.nz/forums/3728.html#164

[Bsr241]

Hey Metla, throw it on Ebay so I can have a second one for TCS racing!:D

[ralphee]

Well my build went spot on, no problems, i even got the diffs nailed sweet too, but then i have been building RC cars for the last 20 years plus so its all common sense TBH!
Id never plan on putting a phililps screw into composite anyway, its asking for trouble, but yeah, sweet build, sweet chassis IMO and not ugly at all, have you even looked at some of the buggies around of late? There no YZ10's i can tell ya lol.

lee

[drinternat]

Metla,

I did the same thing with the diffs and thought it was my own stupidity. However. It was easy to assemble them the correct way though without rebuilding them thanks to advice from a few of the guys here if you looked at the previous forms you may have spotted that problem.

[jimmy]

Wow Metla, how can we have such opposing views? Yeah it's got plastic bits here and there, and yeah it's not got a slipper. But, its cheaper than an SBV2, it's also dare I say got more racing heritage. I've raced the standard car and it's certainly very good from the box. the plastic parts are all high quality (not like the usual Tamiya plastic).
I don't really know what you mean when you say cheap and nasty? What are you expecting for such money? there is simply no car that can compare for that money - but if there is I will happily get it and review it alongside.

I raced the car twice so far and the results speak for themselves. Even if you are pissed about it, give it a chance. I was disapointed to see the half-plastic diffs, but they have performed well so far through 2 race meetings. There has been no problem with the drivetrain other than the pinion falling off - which was my fault.

[sosidge]

Metla, I think you are being a bit hard on the car.

What exactly did you expect? If you wanted a full race spec Tamiya you should have bought the TRF501X.

Yes, the points you mention about the screws and diff instruction are true. However if you have 20 years experience of building cars I thought you would have realised that the phillips head screws would not last in the hard plastic, and that you had made a mistake with the diff screw. I know I made the same mistake but realised it as soon as I finished the diffs. And I bought some hex head screws before even attempting the build.

At the end of the day the Durga is a basic car. But it is a basic car that handles very well. That is what it is all about in my opinion.

[jimmy]

The screws are a bit of a joke - but the screws in the ZX5 were even worse.. The only reason they were worse in the ZX5 is because that car costs twice as much. You can't slate a car that's this cheap for something like screws. I think the screws are used so little jonny who'll NEVER see a race track can build it on xmas morning with his dads phillips.
Unlike sosidge, I chose to soldier on with the build using the kit screws - and if you tap all the holes first and use grease there isn't really any big problem. Eventually you can switch to a hex screw kit - but you can't really expect one to come with it at this price.

I was sweating, swearing and with a sore hand after the first 2 screws in this car - I had to spend a lot longer than I should just pre tapping all the holes. But I have two 501X cars and still love the Durga.

I contacted Tony from Tonys Screws - and he's looking at putting together a kit for the Durga as we speak.

[DCM]

I built the ar with the kit srews and no problems either, ok I tapped them first, which you really shouldn't have to do, but that is a problem with the cheap srews and not heap plastie, it is far FAR better than the DF-03 plasti, and after being an owner of Academy stuff.... it is far FAR better than that too. At least I know all the metal bits will last and not munch itself.

As for the Diff's, I never even noticed an issue, I did glue the diff rings to the plastic holders and to be honest, I am surprised that they have lasted. I did have a noise oming from the car, but that was lack of grease on the driveshafts, once greased they were fine.

For the price, you really can't complain with it, in fact you get a lot of kit, ball diffs, ballraces through the drivetrain, 48dp spur, shims for the rear suspension....

[Eddie168]

Finally i got the DB-01 kit post right from Japan, :)

[jimmy]

I see you got the Champ screw kit - a wise move! I've got one also but not used it yet.

[Eddie168]

I see you got the Champ screw kit - a wise move! I've got one also but not used it yet.

Yea jimmy but very sadly i already managed to broke one of the screw by try to screw in the A12 thing at the start:mad:

[jimmy]

Was it an alloy screw? I'd still suggest pre-tapping those parts especially. After doing the first few with a hudy driver and CS hex screw, I put a 2mm bit in a drill and did them all really quickly with the drill. The suspension blocks are the hardest ones to screw into I think.

Shame about breaking one - once tapped they will be a lot easier to put in.

The nicest ones to use are the ones from Tonys Screws that I used on my Df03 - nice deep hex meant they were really nice positive fit with the driver and you'd have to be a maniac to strip one. Not heard back from him yet but I know he's putting one together. I'll be using the ones from Champ myself so thanks for letting me know.

[Eddie168]

A very bad start for me building the durga, i was trying to screw the A12 part but managed to mess one of the screw up already, i was tryin so hard to get the screw out and finially got it out after 30 minutes, what a start LOL:(

[Eddie168]

Was it an alloy screw? I'd still suggest pre-tapping those parts especially. After doing the first few with a hudy driver and CS hex screw, I put a 2mm bit in a drill and did them all really quickly with the drill. The suspension blocks are the hardest ones to screw into I think.

Shame about breaking one - once tapped they will be a lot easier to put in.

That is what i am doing now lol and my hand is bleeding LOL:D

[Eddie168]

Was it an alloy screw? I'd still suggest pre-tapping those parts especially. After doing the first few with a hudy driver and CS hex screw, I put a 2mm bit in a drill and did them all really quickly with the drill. The suspension blocks are the hardest ones to screw into I think.

Shame about breaking one - once tapped they will be a lot easier to put in.

The nicest ones to use are the ones from Tonys Screws that I used on my Df03 - nice deep hex meant they were really nice positive fit with the driver and you'd have to be a maniac to strip one. Not heard back from him yet but I know he's putting one together. I'll be using the ones from Champ myself so thanks for letting me know.

Those blue screw from RC champ are made from aluminum and they are so easy to break also those screw hasn't got deep hexso beaware

[jimmy]

yeah they sound like the TRF screws in that regard - the shallow hex needs respect! Sort of glad to hear it wasn't just me who really found the suspension blocks a nightmare to screw into! If you have a different (steel) hex screw you can use to tap the holes first, with some grease, that would be a massive help.

[Toonz]

about the balll diff assembly at step 3, if you notice the arrow at the far right pointing the final assembly of the diff, its tail was drawn "twisted", unlike the normal "straight" tail arrows. this is to show that you have to turn the entire diff around to screw in the BG4 screw from the bottom BG6. it also shows the longer diff joint, which is BG5, located on top. one difference between the BG5 and BG6 diff joint is that the BG5 has a pertruding edge cutting across the slot where the BG3 spring and part K4 and BG1 nut will be inserted. so tamiya has drawn it clearly.

i bought a japanese rc magazine that featured the Durga and it also warned that we must tap the holes, especially the suspension mount. they even showed a broken screw that was stuck in it! got to thank jimmy, that you reinforce the idea of tapping the holes with a titanium screw and a strong hudy and i haven't strip a single screw throughout the entire build. all my screw heads are in perfect condition.

:)

[Metla]

My judgment of the car is based on price, Here in NZ it sells for $280, add in delivery and its a $300 car.

In my opinion the contents of the box don't reflect great value, especially when they are compounded with a couple major flaws,such as the screws.

Now, If it were the same price as a TA05, My views would completely and utterly different. And of course, I'm yet to hit the track, Which is where the biggest judgment should come from.

Jimmy, If I were a rich man I'd send you a SBV2 Pro to review, I know you would be impressed.

[DCM]

we have had the V2 in the UK for a while.... and it is pants compare to the DB-01, the screws are an issue, but not a biggy, and in the UK the DB-01 is about £5 more than a TA05.

[Metla]

Sweet, Though I can't base my views on the price in the UK.

As for the SBV2 Pro being pants to the DC-01, Thats just silly talk. Have you never seen one?

[DCM]

dude, I used to rae for the UK Academy team.... and ompared to most cars out there, the Academy 4wd just don't stack up, and that goes for ALL the lub/omp 4wd buggies, the only good car they really made was the touring ar.

[Metla]

How much track time have you had with the SBV2 Pro?

[DCM]

we didn't have much, but the chassis was flex central, very little improvement over wear rates compared to the SB and only marginaly better plastics. Compared to the Tamiya, the SB V2 would feel the cheaper buggy even though it is higher speked, but with naff shocks and an average slipper.

Plus the DB01, wheels are available anywhere.

[jimmy]

I thought DCM was a team driver?
Either way I think we've all 'seen' an SBV2 back when guys like Snee were factory drivers. Afaik the car has progressed since then, especially the PRO version.

How much are other cars over there Metla? You are talking like the car cost 350 quid (like a lot of 4WD cars do) - which is over 900 NZD. Saying the car cost 300NZD with postage (!) equates to ~116 quid which I have to say is an absolute bloody bargain regardless of what anything else costs.

Unless you have incredibly generous importers in NZ then I'd hazard a guess that 4WD competition buggies generally cost a lot more than that.

btw, I totally appreciate your opinion and I also based my opinion on the price of the car. Give me a 250 quid car with screws like this and I'll stamp on it. Give me a 116 quid car with proven suspension and great racing potential and I'll cuddle it at night.
I'm sure if I get time I'll review the SBV2 and I agree it looks good. the early examples I saw had very flexible chassis and I heard some problems with materials and hubs, but maybe those are all fixed now.

[Metla]

Butting heads with a ex-team driver is going to be pointless:o, Though I will say my SBV2 Pro is pure quality, Tough as nails, drives better then any other buggy I have owned. I personally wouldn't have touched any of their cars before the Pro, But she impresses the crap out of me, in every way.

Back to prices, You can get a TA05 for just on $200, as for the price of other buggies They generally need to be imported privately, I did look at bringing in a DB-01 from overseas but it was going to equate to a very similar price as getting one locally.

Durga delivered from local source-$300
SBV2 Pro delivered from USA-$381
B44 would probably sting ya around $440

[jimmy]

Mate if you like your Pro then don't let anyone try convince you otherwise.. I honestly think though that you either expected too much from the Tamiya or just lost interest after the 'screw debacle'.
I prefer plastic chassis' cars to carbon fibre - that's just the way I am. And even with a couple of 501X's sat on the kitchen table I still think the Durga is an awesome car with great potential.

[DCM]

the DB-01 is cheapest from HK... and that is delivered with a slipper was £100 ($190 USD) not much more than a TA05.

[jimmy]

I think for the price paid (locally) you should be wondering HOW you got a buggy with proven suspension and drive train, fully ball raced with high quality plastics and popular wheel fitment AND free tyres to boot. In other words, for the money, there's simply nothing even close ;)

Sorry you don't like it tho mate, I think it's a brilliant car for the money ) and if I didn't have three of them in my lounge I'd probably make you an offer. Maybe I have something I can swap you for it?

[Metla]

Lets not get too carried away, I just threw up a negative post after not enjoying the build and a three minute drive around my section, I intend to put in plenty of track time with her, No intention of selling it.

Though I will be replacing the shocks, fitting CVD's, slipper, One-way, screw kit....by which time she won't be able to be considered cheap.

[DCM]

the shocks are fine to be honest, CVD's on the front but the dogbones work ok, slipper, yes, but if sourced correctly, still cheap.

[Metla]

the shocks are fine to be honest, CVD's on the front but the dogbones work ok, slipper, yes, but if sourced correctly, still cheap.

Personal views, For me, I hate the feel of the budget Tamiya shocks, even if they do their job reasonably well.

I like to be able to set up a shock to give me the feel i like, Never managed to do it with the black Tamiya shocks, Currently the suspension feels like a worn out trampoline. It ain't going to handle the terrain of the track I race at.

Likewise CVD's, I prefer them over dogbones, So will be fitting them on each wheel.

I'd expect the add-ons to add an extra $200 to the kit.

[DCM]

where the fook are you buying them from???

[Metla]

RCMART in HK usually, Locally perhaps through E-Com trading.

And while I haven't priced anything up for the DB-01, A set of DF-03 shocks cost me $80NZ plus delivery.

Don't forget there is a lot of sea between NZ and the rest of the world.

[DCM]

not as much air between HK and the UK though.....

[jimmy]

Lets not get too carried away

:rolleyes: You slated it and said it was ugly, cheap and tacky and would remain so matter what you did to it.. Just assumed you didn't want it that's all :p Easy mistake! hehe

Tamiya are bringing out the 501X shocks if you want to wait for those - or get AE B4 shocks for it (might be cheaper??). Don't put df03 shocks on it as they are barely any better than kit. The kit ones are ok if the track is smooth - after that point you are battling with the car more and more - but..... 116 quid!

[Carlos69]

I made my after market TRF501x steering brace fit: put the cross piece back to front and a blue 2mm spacer under each ballstud. :cool:

[veecee]

Hey buttmonkey, pls post some pics. I'm in HK for a week so this gives me plenty of time to do the sums and figure whether I should park a Durga alongside my 501X... My budget is somewhat limited after having recently forked out $$$ for a 416...

[Carlos69]

Sorry VeeCee, my digital cam is playing up !
ps: want a spare rear c/f shock tower for your TRF501x ? (see ad on rctech)

[Eddie168]

can anyone help me? i striped one of the blue screw that goes into the gear box last night it's quiet tight and how can i get it back out? :(

[DCM]

pair of mole grips? otherwise you will have to remove the other screws, drill it's head off, take the gear case top off of use pliers.

[Eddie168]

pair of mole grips? otherwise you will have to remove the other screws, drill it's head off, take the gear case top off of use pliers.

i don't think any plier and mole grip could fit in that hole, is there any other way without breaking the gear box? or is it the problem with the hex key i am using, the one that comes with the kit

[DCM]

you got to look t the condition of the hex in the screw, chances are they are rounded off. Either use plier on the outside of the head, remove the rest of the screws. All else fails, the head will need to be drilled off.

[jimmy]

Ah.................................
Allen keys like that really aren't made for the job of these screws mate. I used to use allen keys when I was starting racing and it was a nightmare. Get yourself a decent 2mm driver. I've had a few different ones but now use the Hudy Profitools one, it's not a bad price and really nice quality.
It will fit the screws better and just be a lot easier to use.

[Eddie168]

Ah.................................
Allen keys like that really aren't made for the job of these screws mate. I used to use allen keys when I was starting racing and it was a nightmare. Get yourself a decent 2mm driver. I've had a few different ones but now use the Hudy Profitools one, it's not a bad price and really nice quality.
It will fit the screws better and just be a lot easier to use.

so is there any chance i could get it out without breaking the gear box using a decent 2mm driver? any suggestion what one i should get?
cheers mate

[jimmy]

it might be possible sure, being alloy though it's gonna be tough. Any decent 2mm hex driver will be better than the allen key - but personally I like the Hudy profi tools, they are the cheaper plastic handled ones. The more you chew it up with that allen key the less likely you are gonna be to take it out with a proper driver I'm afraid. you'll wonder how you ever coped when you get a decent driver on the case.

[Eddie168]

it might be possible sure, being alloy though it's gonna be tough. Any decent 2mm hex driver will be better than the allen key - but personally I like the Hudy profi tools, they are the cheaper plastic handled ones. The more you chew it up with that allen key the less likely you are gonna be to take it out with a proper driver I'm afraid. you'll wonder how you ever coped when you get a decent driver on the case.

so breaking the gear box is my only choice i guess:(

[Northy]

No! Drill the head off with a 3mm bit.

G

[3975dave]

as has been said dude drill the top off the damaged screw, remove the others and then the gearbox top. you should be left with a stud sticking up and just twist it out with some pliers or grips hth

[3975dave]

beat me to it northy
:D

[jimmy]

might still be able to get it out with a decent driver - but it should be no problem at all to drill it out as has been said

[mrbiccies]

When cutting the wing, what lines would you recommend I cut to?

[Eddie168]

might still be able to get it out with a decent driver - but it should be no problem at all to drill it out as has been said

i am still not quite understand how to get it out with a drill, please help

[ralphee]

Eddie

Drill out the hex head with a 4mm bit, when you remove the casing, youll have a thread sub sticking out the top by a few mm ?
The take some plyers or good grips and twist out buddy, should come out sound, just take care not to snap the thread you have left!

lee

[sosidge]

I was told by a reliable source that Hupo Honigl himself does not cut the rear flap higher than 1.5 lines. Then the sides at an appropriate level, most people seem to be running them 1 or two lines higher than the rear flap. Most people seem to cut a curve between the rear and side flaps to stop the wing cracking down the edge.

Personally I am running the wing with one line on the rear flap. Whether this is right or not I couldn't say, although I was jumping a bit nose down with kit settings so 2 lines may help that tendency.

[A.J. Gee]

Hey guys. I am currently waiting for my mamba max 6900 brushless system, slipper clutch, front one way,and 3racing front and rear graphite shock towers so needless to say my Durga buggy is going to be quite hopped up despite not having ordered shocks for it yet. I was wondering if any of you guys could give me some advice on how to gear it properly so that i wont cause any damage internally to her? This will be my first time running brushless so i just want to take all the nescacerry precautions to ensure everything will run smooth. Thanks.



A.J.

[werner1619]

Hi,
Werner is the name, all the way from South Africa, and new to this forum.
You guys sound smart, so would appresiate your advice.

I have raced onroad for 2 years and lost interest and sold everything. About 2 years later...and I would like to buy an 1/10th offroad kit but can't decide which buggy to get???

Would like something that would be good on a track and also good for messing around with in the park or my yard. I would like to limit myself to about $250.00 for the buggy.

DB-01, ZX-5 or XXX4....???

Your insight would be appresiated

W.

[budgio]

Got my 3racing front and rear towers and they seem ok.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/P1050132.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/P1050134.jpg

Check out those screw heads lol ;)

[ralphee]

They dont look too bad at all buddy, ive some on the way from 3 too!
What kind of thickness are they? One thing i havent done yet is trim my wing to not hit the kit shock tower, was wondering if the 3 towers would allow me to do away with this job!

lee

[ralphee]

Werner, hmm id go with the DB01, its a really good car and from the box its pretty good, the ZX5, getting on a bit in RC timelines i reckon, but not dismissing it, another good chassis.
Id give the XXX4 a miss though, its an overblown touring car to be really honest, from what i read, the XX4 nails it, and the XX4 is way old, goes to show, Losi put a hell of a lot of work into that car!
Jimmy would be the guy to really answer though, he knows the shizzle on most Buggies around :)

lee

[thom.p]

I've got just a quick question: there are no ''touring'' hexes or ways to fit these???

[RogerM]

The DB-01 looks to be a decent chassis, Jason Bennet's looks mint going round.

Don't discount the NEW Lazer ZX5-SP though ... I think either will do it for you if you don't want to be running a BJ4 clone.

[DCM]

I've got just a quick question: there are no ''touring'' hexes or ways to fit these???

simple.... no.... sorry

[sosidge]

Got my 3racing front and rear towers and they seem ok.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/P1050132.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/P1050134.jpg

Check out those screw heads lol ;)

Are you sure you have the rear tower assembled right?

I assumed the shock mounts would be spaced forward of the camber mounts so it is the same as the kit moulding.

[DCM]

I got the front tower and find the shocks leaning back a bit far, so might space the forward at the top a bit more....

[budgio]

Are you sure you have the rear tower assembled right?

I assumed the shock mounts would be spaced forward of the camber mounts so it is the same as the kit moulding.


They will only fit one way mate

[DCM]

just looked on the 3Racing site, you got the rear tower assembled wrong.... honest

http://www.3racing.com.hk/manuals/DB01-03WO.jpg

[budgio]

cheers for the instructions DCM
my bad tbh i didnt even look at the instruction leaflet because of the VERY poor print

it looks like it can be assembled 2 ways then :D

this is what it looks like from above at the mo ... at least there is a little more space between the shocks and the shell
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t98/budgio/P1060136.jpg

[Metla]

Righto, Managed to get to the track today for a couple of hours.

Pleasantly surprised by the cars performance, I ran a couple of my practice batteries through to get used to the way she drove, then dropped in my Lipo and started putting in some aggressive laps, It loved being thrown hard into corners, I was easily able to catch the slide and power out, I was able to pick my lines and stick to them at whatever speed I wanted to travel at, to the point of laying down too much power and losing traction.

So, In box standard form it handled my 8,5 brushless pretty good, I wouldn't want to go any faster until the shocks were replaced, Had plenty of moments where the car got skittery and I had to back off, especially down the main straight where holding her on the power caused it to enter the corner way out of control.

I still stand by my initial assessment, Compared to cars that are only a bit more expensive it doesn't present great value for money considering the shortcuts taken by Tamiya, But if your heart is set on racing a Tamiya or if your budget is limited to the price of the DB-01, It will do the job pretty well. (New Zealand prices)

The track I race on is hard packed with a patchy and very dusty surface, Shes pretty unforgiving and a real handful to drive on at high speed.

My DF-03 in comparison was near impossible to drive around the track at any pace even after I spent boatloads of cash on it.

Oh yeah, day finished with a very low speed glancing blow on a piece of timer that tore the rear arm off....

[Chris]

I've got just a quick question: there are no ''touring'' hexes or ways to fit these???

Yes, no problem.

Just like the D4

[Eddie168]

Hey guys just wondering how many mm is the champ screw set is? is it 2mm or 2.5mm? cause i am getting a hudy driver for my striped screw and not sure which size i should get THX :)

[wayneski]

Hello again all. I know that DCM has answered this (kind of) but I'm trying to find the instructions for making the 501x shocks. not having much luck I'm afraid. Can anyone point me on the right direction? Or give me a link?

Cheers

[jimmy]

Hey guys just wondering how many mm is the champ screw set is? is it 2mm or 2.5mm? cause i am getting a hudy driver for my striped screw and not sure which size i should get THX :)

2mm (now I must add more text as it wont let me just put 2mm! - and im 'boss', mad!)

[Spoolio]

Has anybody got the Tamiya Ti screw kit and a Hudy 2mm driver? Mine is screwing in the screws OK, but when I come to remove the driver it needs backing and it 'unclicks' ie, it feels like its going to round off in the hex if I keep tightening the screw. Not sure whether to buy a new Hudy driver or if something else will fit better. Given the price of the Tamiya screws I don't want to ruin them on the first go.

[ralphee]

Spoolio, i have the same deal and yes i had to back the driver out gently, ive finished my build and the screws are fine buddy, must be a very slight tolerance difference, not sure, but my driver is brand spanking?

lee

[jimmy]

The cheaper Ti and similar screws all seem to be like this. Ti is pretty soft and the heads not very deep - so the driver will get stuck in there as it moves round a little. Did you pre-tap the holes at all? I'd probably advise it if you're using anything other than black steel hex screws.

[Spoolio]

Jimmy, yeah thanks to your warnings, I pretapped the A12 parts with a new M3 tap I've had in my 'big car' toolbox for a while. So far they are the only bits I've fitted, didn't want to go any further if I was going to have to buy a new hex driver. If its a common thing with Ti, then I shall plough on with the build. I just thought the genuine Tamiya bits would be good quality (there is a mug born every minute I guess) especially @ £20 a pop. I didnt realise Ti was soft, I assumed it was light and hard, I've learnt something new today (2 things if I include the fact that I am a crap driver and need to practice...a lot :)!!).

[jimmy]

lol
yeah - You don't want to ever use Ti screws for the shock tops - as these get punished when you land upside down and will bend / break a lot sooner than steel screws.
Maybe try some grease in the threads before putting the screws in? Ultimately tho I've got the same with my Ti screws on my 501X - never been a problem but it's not a nice feeling I agree. Ti screws like the ones lunsford or whoever do, the shiney machined ones, are rather nice and don't seem to have the same problem - but are a lot more expensive.

[Spoolio]

Thanks for the tip about not using Ti for the shocks, never thought of that...the sensible thing would be to use steel ones then? Or I could just proceed to plan B and screw an upside down Losi Mini-T to the roof, so when I flip over, I can just keep on goin' :D

[mutie]

the 501x manual can be found on the tamiya usa website, on the 501x section.

[DCM]

I just had a fun ay with the DB-01..... jumps like a car should, goes round corners like a car should too. Had to tighten up the rear belt as it had finally bedded in, and the front one wants to be nipped up too.

Still waiting for CVD's (yaaaaaaaawn) and does anyone want to donate their kit tyres?

[A.J. Gee]

I had an unfortunate crash with this buggy at a pretty high rate of speed into an unmovable object and the result was a bent suspension shaft as well as the little plastic bits that attach to the end of the shafts. This was of course a crash that would have damaged any other buggy including the Academy SBV2 pro. lol. But anyways, i am now having trouble locating the "A" tree which includes the tiny plastic bits that i need for the shafts. I was hoping to score both the shafts and "A" parts from the same dealer so that i can save on separate shipping costs. The only problem now is that i cant seem to find a place that has the "A" parts period. Im a bit disapointed, but maybe im just being a bit impatient. Do you guys think its too early for the DB-01 to have a variety of places to choose from to get parts, or is going to come down to supply and demand and end up paying high prices for parts?


A.J.

[Northy]

does anyone want to donate their kit tyres?

Pikey! lol :p:p

[DCM]

Pikey! lol :p:p

My mummy always taught me that if you don't ask.... you don't get and the worst is you get told to fook off heehee

[Eddie168]

After all the problems i had. Finally!!!!!! it finished but i still need to get the striped screw that stuck on the gear box maybe after afew run LOL:)

[Mike Hudson]

After all the problems i had. Finally!!!!!! it finished but i still need to get the striped screw that stuck on the gear box maybe after afew run LOL:)
Looking really nice is the wing painted aswell or clear?

[Eddie168]

Looking really nice is the wing painted aswell or clear?

Thanks mate, the wing is gonna be clear but will put decals on ;)

[Toonz]

so erm....... is the tamiya titanium DB01 screw set recommended?:confused:

[ralphee]

Shell goes nice with the black rims Eddie :p

bests....lee

[Carlos69]

so erm....... is the tamiya titanium DB01 screw set recommended?:confused:
I'd recommend it, along with using a 3m tap. The set doesn't include the four 2.6 x 8mm bolts needed to screw down the centre/slipper shaft tho :mad:

[Toonz]

I'd recommend it, along with using a 3m tap. The set doesn't include the four 2.6 x 8mm bolts needed to screw down the centre/slipper shaft tho :mad:

right, those 4 are tiny! i hate them that they are not the regular size. will get to get them separately....

[Eddie168]

Shell goes nice with the black rims Eddie :p

bests....lee

Thanks lee the shell just looks amazing thank you again

[sosidge]

I had an unfortunate crash with this buggy at a pretty high rate of speed into an unmovable object and the result was a bent suspension shaft as well as the little plastic bits that attach to the end of the shafts. This was of course a crash that would have damaged any other buggy including the Academy SBV2 pro. lol. But anyways, i am now having trouble locating the "A" tree which includes the tiny plastic bits that i need for the shafts. I was hoping to score both the shafts and "A" parts from the same dealer so that i can save on separate shipping costs. The only problem now is that i cant seem to find a place that has the "A" parts period. Im a bit disapointed, but maybe im just being a bit impatient. Do you guys think its too early for the DB-01 to have a variety of places to choose from to get parts, or is going to come down to supply and demand and end up paying high prices for parts?


A.J.

The spacers are just 3mm inside diameter, there are lots of other manufacturers (including Tamiya) that make 3mm shim/spacer kits which you could use instead of hunting down an A parts.

[jimmy]

Is it shock shafts or hinge pins that bent? The hinge pins can be bent back and as long as they are more-or-less straight they should work OK because they pivot in balls.. I've done this on my 501X and Durga after crashes.
as for the washers, I used anything I could find on my 501X after losing the originals.

[Metla]

I would imagine hes looking for the bell-shaped plastic piece that goes on the end of the hinge-pin, and slides into the block screwed to the chassis.

Funny enough, It was one of those that split when I crashed mine, and is now missing. I too noticed no one had the A parts listed.

On the positive side I did manage to spend a few minutes looking for my missing dog-bone.


And then left it on the table at the track....

Which meant a 2 hour drive back to get it at 10pm.....:o....silly bugger.

[jimmy]

That IS a mare of a part to lose!
For the balls, you can get the steel ones made for the 501X - if you can find them. when I lost one of the steel ones I made my own from an alloy ball stud - the kind with internal threading. I drilled it out to remove the threads and so it slipped over the hinge pin. in my case it didn't last long since it was alloy in the alloy hinge pin brace on the 501X - but on the Durga it would be fine.
Bit of a farce but if you have the bits required and are handy, then it's not a big deal.

[Metla]

Well, Lacking any great skill, I cut down a plastic shim, glued it in the hole, re-assembled the car.

Sure, Its rough, But it could be awhile before I can source a replacement, If there is a steel version available I'll just try and find that.

I was meaning to try a part from my B4 to see if they fit....

[Eddie168]

Does anyone know what does that blue metal spacer for, the one that comes with the bag with pinion gear and stuff?

[sim]

That IS a mare of a part to lose!
For the balls, you can get the steel ones made for the 501X - if you can find them. when I lost one of the steel ones I made my own from an alloy ball stud - the kind with internal threading. I drilled it out to remove the threads and so it slipped over the hinge pin. in my case it didn't last long since it was alloy in the alloy hinge pin brace on the 501X - but on the Durga it would be fine.
Bit of a farce but if you have the bits required and are handy, then it's not a big deal.

I just looked up the online manuals. The 501X uses part number 50994 which is the same as what the touring cars use (414,415,TB-02R,TA-05R) and it's a popular upgrade part for TB-02 and TA-05 owners. There is also a newer version 53709 which are flourine coated.

[sosidge]

Does anyone know what does that blue metal spacer for, the one that comes with the bag with pinion gear and stuff?

Do you mean BM9? According to the manual it is for if you fit the optional belt tensioner/roller. You don't need it for the standard build.

[A.J. Gee]

[quote=Metla;82347]I would imagine hes looking for the bell-shaped plastic piece that goes on the end of the hinge-pin, and slides into the block screwed to the chassis.

Yes thats the part that i am looking for. Does anyone have a suggestion on any companies that manufacture something similar that i can use? Im gonna spend a bit of time looking around for the part, but if anyone can save me some time, i would greatly appreciate it.


A.J.

[A.J. Gee]

Is it shock shafts or hinge pins that bent? The hinge pins can be bent back and as long as they are more-or-less straight they should work OK because they pivot in balls.. I've done this on my 501X and Durga after crashes.
as for the washers, I used anything I could find on my 501X after losing the originals.


It is the hinge pin that i bent, so i have a pack of four that i have on order from Tamiya. I believe they are the same ones used on the TA-05 chassis.

[501X Driver]

It is the hinge pin that i bent, so i have a pack of four that i have on order from Tamiya. I believe they are the same ones used on the TA-05 chassis.

Hey guys here is a good use of some tool shafts that have been striped from years of use or if it is starting to wear a reason to get a fresh tool. I used a shaft from a Hudy 1/16" pinion tool. It fit the a-arm perfect. I used a Dremel tool to cut it to length and it isn't too much more than the Tamiya shafts. A replacement shaft is $7.50 and the 3mm pins are $8.50 for 4. The shaft will only make 2 pins but it will get you by in a pinch.
Be sure to check the size of the shaft before cutting it to length.

It's the little parts that get you.
I have only broken 1 front arm but it bent the pin too much to be bent back straight, in fact it broke in the process. We have 3 other cars that run at my track and everytime a front arm has broken the pins were bent. Only 1 other was broken in the process of straighting.
Good Luck :) :) :)

[Toonz]

why does this hinge pin bend so easily? is there a design fault somewhere in the car?:confused:

[scotoap]

That IS a mare of a part to lose!
For the balls, you can get the steel ones made for the 501X - if you can find them. when I lost one of the steel ones I made my own from an alloy ball stud - the kind with internal threading. I drilled it out to remove the threads and so it slipped over the hinge pin. in my case it didn't last long since it was alloy in the alloy hinge pin brace on the 501X - but on the Durga it would be fine.
Bit of a farce but if you have the bits required and are handy, then it's not a big deal.

Jimmy the rear hinge pin and ball ends on the 501X are the same as the TA04R ones, so I discovered but different parts numbers.
I assume the TA04 balls would still be available in most LHS's in UK, so should not be a problem.
Also the hingepin balls are the same on most TRF models dont know if any others use the same length pins though, but could be worth a look in the manuals section of say Time Tunnel spare parts section for Tamiya.
Hope this helps you out.
Typical Tamiya same part but different number saves machine time and makes money for them.

[DCM]

man, funny how, after phoning royal mail yesterdy over my missing 501X driveshafts, they turn up the next morning.... wonder why... only been sitting in the UK since Dec 13th....

[scotoap]

I have been waiting since then for trousers ordered from UK to UK and still not arrived, good job I got some left over from last year Ha Ha

[sim]

why does this hinge pin bend so easily? is there a design fault somewhere in the car?:confused:

I see the 501X hingepin is 48.5mm. I assume the Durga one is too. The TA-05 one is 49.7mm. They are the same width and same material. On the tourers (TA04, TA05), they are the weak point and we like it that way because you almost never need to replace the arms (not that the arms are not strong, the carbon reinforced versions are about unbreakable). The tourer hingepins are cheap to replace and we can get them easy here from the Tamiya shop.

Also, I'm sure they bend more easily on the buggy than on the tourer because the buggy arms are longer and a crash with the buggy puts more force on the hingepin than a crash with the tourer.

If it really is a big problem, you could try to make your own hingepin out of "dowel pins". Don't ask me what they are but I've seen them at my nuts and bolts supply store, they are dirt cheap, come in all shapes and sizes and they are hella strong, so I use them in my custom projects. Only, they usually are some form of steel that can rust a bit over time and they are usually a little bigger diameter than they claim to be. You might need to turn down their diameters just an itsy bitsy teeny weeny bit. I don't have a lathe, so my makeshift way is with a Dremel and cutting disk like so...
http://www.bigbigplanet.com/rccars/slt/SLT_16.jpg

[94eg!]

Here are the suspension balls from Tamiya. Cost around $6 to $7 plus shipping on eBay:

http://www.vellrip.com/media/53709.jpg
http://www.vellrip.com/media/50994.jpg

As for the suspension shafts, TamiyaUSA shows 46mm length for the front, and 48.5mm for the rear. The rear shaft part number is 9805681, and they come in a 4 pack. For the front, Tamiya sells two different types to fit different budgets. I seriously doubt the titanium coating will prevent bending though, so you should probably stick with regular steel for 1/4 the price:


http://www.vellrip.com/media/51093.jpg
http://i1.ebayimg.com/02/i/04/bc/ce/c2_1_b.JPG

And as an added bonus of useless information, you can get rid of those cheapo plastic spacers on the suspension shaft by purchasing the following hop-up. It contains 4 spacers of each thickness (.5mm, 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm) with X.5mm spacers being silver, and X.0mm ones being blue. BTW: The 5.5mm named in the title refers to the spacers outer diameter. They are still proper 3mm inner diameter. I have no idea why Tamiya describes them this way:

http://images.marketworks.com/hi/62/62314/53539.jpg

[94eg!]

Just noticed that 3 Racing makes Nylon pivot balls as well. Very inexpensive, but I have no idea if they are any good...

http://i1.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/d0/90/7a78_1.JPG

[DCM]

3Racing got bigger balls than Tamiya (ooooeerrr) I got big and little balls (no comments please)

[sosidge]

Please help me before I start to lose my mind.:eh?:

Got a very frustrating problem with the Durga.

After two race meetings and 10 races started, I have failed to finish 6. One was due to me crashing and breaking a shock tower. One was caused by a connector shaking loose. But FOUR have been caused by the battery shaking itself apart at the battery bars.

I run 6-cells side-by-side, EP4200s with Much-More Premium bars.

I have tried glueing the cells together, taping the cells together, padding the battery tray out with foam, removing aforementioned padding. I have been using either a professional quality Weller 60W iron with a big tip or one of the 12V irons with a monster tip with Much-More 4% silver solder. And the packs are still breaking apart.

Next on my list of things to try is heatshrinking the whole pack together and using braid instead of bars to make the cell joints flexible.

Any other suggestions? I have never had this happen before expect for big crashes that have left the electronics hanging out of the side of the car, to have it happen so regularly now in normal race conditions is starting to spoil my fun.

Seems to me that the Durga chassis flexes a little more around the edges than you might think and the battery pack is taking the strain.

Anyone else having this problem? It would really help me to know I am not the only loony in the world who is suffering from this. :wtf:

[jimmy]

I am running saddle packs - so I guess a lot less stresses involved. My pack does move around a bit in the car, do you find the same? I've not actually installed any foam though. I wonder is some sort of carbon fibre battery strap could solve your problem by stiffening things up a little bit?
I can't really see the chassis flexing enough to cause this - maybe it is, but I just can't see it. There ARE chassis' about that flex that much, but surely not the durga? :confused:

[sparrow.2]

Did you scuff the ends of the cells a little with sandpaper or a dremel with a soft sanding whell before you soldered them? That usually helps with mine....

Try padding the bottom of the battery brace too. Might help by keeping the cells a little tighter with the padding underneath as well. I use foam sheets in 2mm from craft shops and stick them in with thin double sided tape. (you can colour-coordinate with hte foam as well ;))

[DCM]

Did you scuff the ends of the cells a little with sandpaper or a dremel with a soft sanding whell before you soldered them? That usually helps with mine....

Try padding the bottom of the battery brace too. Might help by keeping the cells a little tighter with the padding underneath as well. I use foam sheets in 2mm from craft shops and stick them in with thin double sided tape. (you can colour-coordinate with hte foam as well ;))

don't scuff the cells.

If you are going to solder, use a small amount of flux on the cell before soldering. Thats how they should be done.

Chances are you have a mixture of a little cell vibration/movement and a slightly cold solder joint (not enough solder flow from the heat). Heatshrink will just compound the problem.

I get a little movement but not a lot, and it is tight around the motor mount. You could try turning the batt strap screws in a little more so the strap really clamps the cells, or put foam on the underside of the strap.

[sparrow.2]

By scuff I really mean scuff not grind!

Proper solder has more than enough flux down the middle of it to get nice joints and the scuffing gives a better mechanical joint. Has always worked for me up to now and flux has always made a bit of a mess...

[A.J. Gee]

Im about to make an order on a couple parts at the moment. I am considering getting a back up "drive belt" . Can anyone suggest to me if this is nesacerry or not. Do the belts have a good life span or should i get one just in case for back up? Thanks.


A.J.

[jimmy]

yeah get a spare belt. I've been through a couple of my 501X, one was from a stone getting in there (not a problem on the Durga) and the other was from running the front belt too tight.
You never know though - and it's worth being prepared.

[A.J. Gee]

Thanks for the advice Jimmy. Appreciated as always.

[Spoolio]

Is the 'Synthetic rubber cement' that is shown in the manual really the same stuff you get in a bike puncture repair kit? Also, I'm not sure about the 2 piece diff outdrive setup. I know it probably works OK in practice but it looks cheap and nasty - does anybody know if the 501X diff joints (TA-51286) or any other one piece part can be used instead? I am using Kanzen diff balls as I'd like to build the diffs as low-maintenance as possible.

[Eddie168]

Does any one have any idea what are those AW grease and the black grease that come with the durga kit for? seems like i didn't use any at all :confused: and how tight should the ball diff be for front and rear? thx

[jimmy]

You should have used those greases. The thrust race should have either one in. The AW grease is for the driveshafts. I used AW grease to keep the pins in on the axles also.

[sosidge]

Is the 'Synthetic rubber cement' that is shown in the manual really the same stuff you get in a bike puncture repair kit? Also, I'm not sure about the 2 piece diff outdrive setup. I know it probably works OK in practice but it looks cheap and nasty - does anybody know if the 501X diff joints (TA-51286) or any other one piece part can be used instead? I am using Kanzen diff balls as I'd like to build the diffs as low-maintenance as possible.

Yes, the rubber cement is as used in puncture repair kits/trainer repair glue. Some debate over whether it is needed, I used a spot of superglue on them, some people just put a dab of ball diff silicone grease on the back of the plates, or you can leave them dry.

I always used to either leave them or put a dab of silicone grease on them, but the diff seemed to be slipping so I glued them this time.

Since then the diffs have been fine, they needed quite a bit of tightening after the first few runs bedded them in, but they didn't need attention at the last race meeting. I have a slipper clutch in now which no doubt helps take some of the strain off the diff.

I believe the 501X outdrives would be a direct replacement though, I might change to them if diff adjustment becomes an issue again.

[Spoolio]

Thanks Sosidge,

I'll get some new glue, that what I've got in an unopened puncture repair kit my nan bought me when I got my first 'big lads' bike might have matured a bit over the last 27 years!

Just priced up front and rear 501X outdrives and at $14.40 a pair plus postage from HK I am undecided whether to go this far yet, or just so how it goes. I will be running an LRP Vector X-11 7.5T brushless motor in it.

It'll either hang together or shred itself to pieces I suppose.

[sosidge]

On the topic of the slipper clutch...

Tamiyas suggested setting is 3mm. I think this is too soft, and I was struggling for punch and braking. After bedding it in over a few packs 4mm seems to be better. This is using a 12-turn motor.

[sosidge]

It'll either hang together or shred itself to pieces I suppose.

That's the way I always run things! If it breaks, upgrade, if it doesn't, leave well alone!:D

[Spoolio]

On the topic of the slipper clutch...

Tamiyas suggested setting is 3mm. I think this is too soft, and I was struggling for punch and braking. After bedding it in over a few packs 4mm seems to be better. This is using a 12-turn motor.

Brushed or brushless?

[sosidge]

Brushed or brushless?

Brushed.

[Spoolio]

That's the way I always run things! If it breaks, upgrade, if it doesn't, leave well alone!:D

You are a wise man. I should have had you sitting on my shoulder over the last few weeks, I think with what I've spent on hop-ups on an unbuilt car (!) I could have imported a B44 for the same money. I just keep consoling myself that the main reason I bought the DB01 was so I can use my Trakpower lipo.

[sosidge]

Another quick tip on fitting the slipper.

Put the 3 remaining 4x0.2mm shims from the original layshaft on the pulley side of the slipper layshaft to take out the slack.

Otherwise the layshaft moves around a lot, I noticed that the belt had been slapping against the slipper plate leaving black marks, may not be ideal for belt life.

[serjames]

reluctant to post too much in case it becomes obvious that the last car I ran was a semi broken Avante... anyway I spotted this and thought someone would find it useful..

http://cgi.ebay.com/3Racing-Aluminum-Oil-Damper-Set-TAMIYA-DB01-DURGA_W0QQitemZ130187686791QQihZ003QQcategoryZ3406 3QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[serjames]

whilst I'm typing... is there anywhere that all the useful info you guys are posting re the build and recommended spares and upgrades has been summarised and laid out in one go, like a oOple Durga FAQ ??

SJ

[A.J. Gee]

I was wondering from any of you guys who have already installed the front one way, if one half of the diff sits lower than the other while installed? I know that i have the black sleeves with the arrows properly adjusted, but one side is sitting lower than the other. Im not sure if with the box cover on and the dog bone pushing into the joint if it will even things out. This just doesnt seem right.

[DCM]

check both holders are orientate the same, the bearing holder and the holders carrier. It can't be lopsided if mounte right.

[A.J. Gee]

Never mind guys. I guess i was wrong when i said i had the sleeves assembled correctly. Just a little mishap while transfering from the stock to the one way, but now all is good.:) I spoke too soon.


A.J.

[wayneski]

Hello again all,

Finally got the new radio set (acoms 2.4gh cheap but hopefully cheerful) and so she is up and running. Scary fast with the Mamba 6900!!!
Only done a bit of bashing as waiting to sort out KKC membership but impressed so far.
One small problem though. The acoms servos are a bit weedy I thinkand are operating at their limit so I am after recommendations for a good steering servo. Nothing spectacularly expensive as my skill level does not warrant it. But sommit that will be ok for club racing.

Cheers

[ralphee]

I have aBluebird 617 MG in my DB and its wicked fast and torquey too, think it was only £30 shipped from Japan!

lee

[wayneski]

where from ralphee

[ralphee]

Umm it was off an Ebay seller buddy, hang ten ill see if i have his details buddy!

lee

[ralphee]

Wayne

Just type in 617MG in the Ebay search, itll bring up the seller and the servo buddy my bad its HK not Japan, id link it but im not sure on Jimmy's Ebay link policy, i really should read more lol.

lee