Ellis edition build questions...

andys · #1 02-01-2010

Finally got around to putting my new Ellis edition X6 together today.

Couple of questions if anyone can help.

1_How do I tell if the chassis is indeed the plastic one, to my eye it looks like it's graphite. I'm sure Darren will have swopped it for the plastic one, any tell tale signs ?

2_On my old X6 I had the losi rear axles and spacers. This meant I could have lots of droop. On the new kit, with the new Xfactory spacers / axles, the dogbone is almost coming out of the diff outdrive at maximum droop.(shocks as per Eliis setup sheet) I've had to alter the shock positions quite a lot to reduce droop significantly to ensure the dogbones don't come out. I'm using the B4 dogbones, is this normal ?

Cheers.

Andy.

_sleigh_ · #2 02-01-2010

weigh the chassis, if it's about 200g then it's the plastic version, about 165g for graphite.

andys · #3 02-01-2010

Cheers for the tip. Fraid I don't have any decent scales and the chassis is on the car now !

YoungChazz · #4 02-01-2010

When I put them in the boxes, they were plastic. Maybe the carbon crept in there during the plane ride??? LOL. It's plastic.

The question is, do they come out? If not, run 'em. The new #5661 axle, supplied in the Championship Edition, is about .040" shorter than the old #5660 axle. Yes, it almost comes out, but should not. The old one would bottom out in the outdrive under certain conditions -- not good.

The new axle puts the bone's pin in the proper part of the outdrive most of the time.

MALLET · #5 02-01-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by YoungChazz

The new axle puts the bone's pin in the proper part of the outdrive most of the time.

Most of the time..... At this price it should be in all the time.....

coolcars782 · #6 02-01-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by MALLET

Most of the time..... At this price it should be in all the time.....

Agreed

andys · #7 02-01-2010

Thanks again Chazz for the reply.
I'll just tun it and see then. I always have my losi axles and spacers if need be.

The car dies look great now it's all together, it was great to have all the pro parts in one box

One last question, do most people remove the areas in the battery compartment where the chassis has raised dividers for nimh cells, to get the lipo lower down into the car ?

Will I weaken the chassis if I remove this material ?

Cheers

YoungChazz · #8 02-01-2010

The bone slides in and out -- that's how it works. None of them stay in the "perfect" spot all the time.

The new #5661 is in the right spot more often than the #5660 was.

blue_pinky · #9 02-01-2010

As I understand it the plastic chassis is actually a glass fibre loaded material, rather than the stiffer graphite material of the original, so still looks different to a straight forward black plastic part. That's cetainly the case with my plastic chassis anyway!

I've left the battery ribs in, and use the gaps to position different lead weights in different configurations under the battery...keeping the real wieght low down!

YoungChazz · #10 03-01-2010

I think Pinky understands...

super__dan · #11 03-01-2010

Andy have you limited the rear shocks as per Ellis setup? I have a Losi B spacer in mine I think else you will have too much droop with the Losi shocks and the dogbone will come out of the diff.

What Chazz means is with the correct/normal amount of limiting the dogbone will work properly sliding through the range on the outdrive without falling out or hitting the diff at the extremities but mostly working in the middle of the outdrive, BUT as with all cars this is assuming the suspension travel is limited accordingly.

Andy, can looks good though you should get the wing as far forward as possible

Ref the ribs, cos of the sloping chassis sides you could only lower the battery a fraction, it's really not worth it at all.

TonyM · #12 04-01-2010

A simple test for graphite is to set a multimeter on the highest ohm range you have e.g. 200M and put both probes on the chassis a little apart and you will get a reading (you may need to scratch the surface a little). Plastic will give you no reading i.e. a perfect insulator.

Regarding the battery tray ribs I have reduced the height of mine by about two-thirds, which just allows a TrakPower 5000 Dark Series to be fitted without the two forward nuts being too high for the body-shell. I fitted the quick battery replacement kit but discarded the standard nuts and used thumb nuts from the B4 – the front two I ground down to approximately half height and bevelled at the edges. We’ll see if the chassis will stand up to my mods – if anyone can break it I can.

Finally, I just fitted the 5661 axle and for me I think the dogbone positioning is spot on with the standard ES setup.

andys · #13 04-01-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by super__dan

Andy have you limited the rear shocks as per Ellis setup? I have a Losi B spacer in mine I think else you will have too much droop with the Losi shocks and the dogbone will come out of the diff.

Dan, no I didn't put any spacers in the shocks. Will put them in, thanks for mentioning it

With regard to the wing, as I have mounted it in the low holes, it looks like i'll need to butcher it to get it forwards ? Should I use the higher wing mounting holes instead ?

I noticed the new wing in the kit had 2 sets of holes marked on it too.

super__dan · #14 04-01-2010

Yes, to fit in the rear holes you either need to trim a section out of the front wing or notch out a bit so that the corners of the shock tower can poke through. The advantage mainly comes when jumping that the car is much more balanced in the air, when mounted in the front holes the car will tend to jump nose high everywhere. I'll post a pic of mine though won't be until tomorrow night most likely. I run mine in the low holes, again for the same reason.

andys · #15 04-01-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by super__dan

Yes, to fit in the rear holes you either need to trim a section out of the front wing or notch out a bit so that the corners of the shock tower can poke through. The advantage mainly comes when jumping that the car is much more balanced in the air, when mounted in the front holes the car will tend to jump nose high everywhere. I'll post a pic of mine though won't be until tomorrow night most likely. I run mine in the low holes, again for the same reason.

So, just to be clear, I understand you mount the wing more forwards, but as regards the mounting of the wing holders (the arms that screw onto the shock tower) are they in the high position, or the low position.

Mine are in the low position, looks too me like the wing won't mount forwards unless I raise the mounts to the upper position ?

Cheers.

super__dan · #16 04-01-2010

Wing holders are low.

So to use the rear mounting holes in the wing the front face of the wing would foul the tower, so I cut that bit out. I'll do you a picture tomorrow (or late tonight if I remember) though this kind of shows what I mean

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/2009n...s/OOP_6714.jpg