RB5 Tips and tricks!

[Alex H]

Post anything that could make your rc experience better. Here is two from me regarding the RB5 and the boots can of course be applied on the ZX5 as well.

First. PIC 1. The motor does not sit in the centre of the car when you look from behind. It has some serious overhang to the left causing the tyre pressure to be higher on that wheel. This is from when brushed motors were used. Belive me, I messured it very carefully. I just added a 2mm washer in between the motorplate and tranny. This solves the problem more or less. Still not completly perfect but way better than before. I also added about 0.5mm och schims to increce the the gap between the slipper plates and the motorplate. Just enough clerance. Took some 30mm screws and shortend them to 27mm to replace the stock 25mm screws.

Pic 2. Team Durango driveshaft boots can be used if you shrinkwrap the outdrives first and then slide the boots on. Perfect fit and it keeps the diffscrews clean and the lube on the dogbone stay fresch.

Hope this is helful.

Alex H

[RogerM]

Alex, interesting ideas there

Did you check the 'balance point' of the motor though, I think they are definately biased towards the output shaft end so it may not be as bad as you think. Interested in your findings, anything we can do to make this awesome car even better is appreciated

[Dhami1]

good call on motor position.. i thought it was too far left too! i'll try that perhaps.

it could expain why the right tyre wears quicker than the left. Right wheel must diff out with more weight being on the left!?

thank you!

[Alex H]

Thanks guys!
It was really very simple. I took the tranny out and then I used two scalpels to lift up the tranny. Placed one right in the centre line between the two tranny halves and the other blade on opposite side where the two screws are. Could not be more in the centre than that. Lifted and discovered that it leaned to the left. Then I shifted the rear blade proximally 3mm to the left and lifted again. Now it was level.
But if you move weight from one side to another it should not be by 3mm. That would be too much so a 2mm shift was the best compromise.
Have always been wondering about this fact and had to find out.

[RogerM]

Well there you go ... top work that man!

Looks like we are all off to space out our motor plates, que a world shortage of 2mm shims .. LOL

Seriously though, its little gems like this that all go to find that last farction of a percent in ultimate lap time that can make the difference.

[Alex H]

Yes, but thats me in a nut shell. Always looking to improve. That is just half the pleasure, to make something. I am going to apply this on my new midmotor Ultima prodject.

Made this out of some 2mm CF I had laying around.....no, I don't have a girlfriend .

[jaank]

Lol at that snuff.

[RogerM]

How about making the spacer out of brass? Better heat disipation and some weight over the rear so might be able to run less lead (assuming you have some in the rear of the car, most people are running between 10 & 20 g in the rear triangles of the chassis braces). Just an idea!

[Alex H]

Already done mate. Just got some 1.5mm home so I have to get some 2mm instead but i sits nice. I have added some weight in form of a brass plate under the Lipo. 1.5mm. 87grams. Then I used Associateds thumbscrews and posts for securing the pack. I run saddlepacks so I have a plate made out of CF on top of the pack. It is located just infront of the shocktower and the esc is placed on that. Did this on my former B4 and that also made the car better in left to right weigth distrobution. Can show pics when I get home from work this weekend. Have no spelling aid on this computer.
Look under "i made this". I also have a brassplate located under the car. Prototype only.