Lrp motor cooling fan question on dex410

dex410usa · #1 09-03-2010

Hi,
I was wondering if the fan sticking out a about 3mm would affect the car at all? Has anyone tried this before? I am tired of the car over heating.

reg · #2 09-03-2010

.........there must be somthing wrong somewere to need a heat sink and a fan on the motor,there is no way unless you cut a big hole in the shell that the shell will fit over the fan

and i dont think it will last 5 mins in a race without some one hitting it,if you go out door it will be a nightmare coz the chassis will get so much crap in it because of the bit missing

as will the fan,i know iv not been much help,does the car run free across the ground if you push it slightly if you disconect the pinion,if yes is it meshed to tight,

reg · #3 09-03-2010

looking at you pic,just also make sure,as you have the powercap right next to the spur that its not damaged in any way or a wire has been snagged,

AmiSMB · #4 09-03-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by dex410usa

Hi,
I was wondering if the fan sticking out a about 3mm would affect the car at all? Has anyone tried this before? I am tired of the car over heating.

What turn LRP X12 have you got in there? I have had LRP motors in the past and they do tend to run hotter than other makes. What gearing are you running? I tend to run a 6.5 outdoors with a 22 and indoors I run a 7.5 on a 23/24 depending on size of the track and temps are fine.

Bungleaio · #5 09-03-2010

what have you done!

Thats some pretty major surgery to the chassis. My car has been running no where near the thermal limit but I have only run indoors so far.

Where abouts in the states are you? If you are having to cope with much higher air temperatures then I can see why this might be necessary.

Have you modified the bodyshell yet?

Northy · #6 09-03-2010

I think the way the heatshrink comes so far forward on the front prop driveshaft could be causing that one to bind up, there is no need to have so much on there......

If you've done the same to the rear, that will bind also.

G

AmiSMB · #7 09-03-2010

Make sure that the output drive to the centre is not on too tight as this will constrict the bearings in the gearbox cases. You can usually tell if this is happening as the output part of the shaft coming out of the gearbox case can become hot after a race. Also make sure that the cvd's are greased up as I found that made a big difference especially on the centre shafts. The other main area of friction I have found is with the crunch spacers getting crunched or wearing down. Use the centre of a 5x10x4 bearing for the rear and HB61490 steel spacers in the front which allows you to tighten the wheels up properly without the car binding and also allows the front bearings not to get ruined.

fmo · #8 09-03-2010

Are you sure that your drivetrain spins free? The center shaft shows some wear, see photo...

Chequered Flag Racing · #9 09-03-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by AmiSMB

What turn LRP X12 have you got in there?

and which timing insert??

dex410usa · #10 10-03-2010

Thank you for all the responses guys and girls. I have an LRP 8.5 stock insert. I did not grease any of the cvd's. The middle shaft had some wear because of a wire touching but i fixed that. i will check the gear box if its too tight. My car seems to have too much drag so i am assuming there is something wrong but car drives great. I had a spare side skid late that was bent so i used it to test before actually doing anything to the car and that is why i posted here.

Thank you

dex410usa · #11 10-03-2010

I am running 8.5 with 20 pinion (i was running 21 but was getting too hot) with 21 pinion i was getting around 160 f temps and thats only running 5 minutes moderate)

Quote:

Originally Posted by AmiSMB

What turn LRP X12 have you got in there? I have had LRP motors in the past and they do tend to run hotter than other makes. What gearing are you running? I tend to run a 6.5 outdoors with a 22 and indoors I run a 7.5 on a 23/24 depending on size of the track and temps are fine.

Alex H · #12 10-03-2010

Noticed that as well that the X12 runs hotter than other brands. Did not have any issues at all with heat when running Ballistic in my DEX410. Better traction control with it also. Smother.

Northy · #13 10-03-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by dex410usa

I am running 8.5 with 20 pinion (i was running 21 but was getting too hot) with 21 pinion i was getting around 160 f temps and thats only running 5 minutes moderate)

I've run 24 or a 25 with a 7.5 SP motor.

G

freud · #14 10-03-2010

22 with a 6.5 X12 Octa Wind Motor

Chris Doughty · #15 10-03-2010

what tires are you all running though, I'm guessing the guy from America will be running a Proline or a 'dirt' tire and you guys are using the schumacher type tires.

that will change the relative gearings

fmo · #16 10-03-2010

I have noticed that when I used "virtual" drag through my ESC settings the motor temperature went up dramatically. After changing ESC settings with drag to 0, the motor is approx. 20 centigrades cooler now.

AmiSMB · #17 10-03-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoughtyUK.net

what tires are you all running though, I'm guessing the guy from America will be running a Proline or a 'dirt' tire and you guys are using the schumacher type tires.

that will change the relative gearings

I am using Pro-line Holeshot and Holeshot 2's and Pro-line Suburbs so as close as you can get to the USA setup as I run at PDA.

Chris Doughty · #18 10-03-2010

yes, of course, if you are running at PDA then you will be using similar tires as the guy with the original question.

and yes, drag brake will certainly generate more heat in the speedo and motor than running 0

Alfonzo · #19 10-03-2010

I would suggest that cutting the side out of the chassis as you have will seriously weaken the car. Being ally, it won't snap in a hurry, but keep an eye on it in case it bends and goes out of alingment.

fmo · #20 10-03-2010

I will try to explain it from an architectural point of view. Please excuse my poor technical English, I hope the content will be understandable anyway...

The cut-out is unfortunately located in a quite weak spot. If you look at the chassis and its static behaviour it can be compared to a truss which is mounted on columns at both ends. If a load is applied the truss wants to bend which generates the highest momentum just in the middle of the truss. Here the truss would need the biggest constructive height for maximum stiffness. Unfortunaltely this is close to the point where a) the motor is located on the chassis, which adds extra load and b) your chassis is cut out, which reduces constructive height dramatically.

Maybe your chassis is still strong enough, time will tell...