RB One 1/8th scale buggy

[ollie]

I received my RB one RTR buggy kit on Tuesday and as you would expect from a company with a worldwide reputation like RB products the quality of the kit on first inspection looks very good.
Within the box you get nearly everything needed including an RB engine, EFRA pipe, Savox servos and a receiver pack, and as this is the none pull start kit I only have to supply a starter box, fuel, some batteries for the radio and the glow stick that are also included within the kit.
Having sold all my 1/8th rally cross equipment apart from a starter box at the end of 2009 I wanted an affordable entry back into the class and therefore I opted for the RB one as it looked a great package and on first inspection of the kit I am not disappointed at all.
The Kit comes in two versions a pull start kit or a starter box kit making it a good choice for beginners or as a kit option for a racer looking to make the move to 1/8th rally cross.

[strobe]

Hi Ollie.
Looking at getting one of these as well.
Does the shell come clear or is it pre painted.
Mark

[Gregors]

seems it is in 4 colours
http://www.rbproducts.com/presentati...0&Hauteur=1200

[ollie]

Shell come’s pre painted in a choice of colours as mentioned above.
I will be down at Ledbury tomorrow and will have the buggy with me if anyone wants to take a look.

[ollie]

I thought I would give you all an update on the RB One Ready to Race buggy as over the past week I have completely striped it down and rebuilt it.

RB have put a lot of thought into this buggy with even the small things that are sometimes a pain when building a buggy like routing the servo and battery wires. They have created a channel that the on/off switch fits into and the wires are run along this channel which has a removable lid making this both easy to fit and then maintain if needed.
Along with this they have also placed mounting holes to the underside of the receiver box allowing easy mounting of your personal transponder. While these items may seem small details they all add to making both build and maintenance that little bit more of an ease when you are in a hurry.
With the RB One being a Ready to Race Buggy RB Products have put together a kit with not only thought going into making a great looking buggy, but also a lot of thought has gone into quality and ease of maintenance making this a great affordable choice for the established rally cross racer.
RB have also Created an overall package for the RB One that makes entry into 1/8th rally cross affordable and easy for both the established racer moving into this racing class or for anyone totally new to the hobby/sport of radio control cars.

I will be running the buggy in this week and hope to do some testing the weekend so I will give you a further update later this week.

[MikaR]

Hi Ollie,

I received my RB one about two weeks ago and have the same thoughts as you.

So far I've run a tank in and waiting to run more when have the chance (outside temps warm up a bit again).

Have the pullstart version. It works.

Here's a short vid I took
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbgKVvO5lZk

In case you wonder (on the video) I changed the throttle to a brushless to be able to use a rubber band fail-safe for the motor.

Picture taken at the time of the installation that shows the nice radio tray:



Few other:




Ollie, when you have the chance to drive it please share
Waiting for your further comments. Thanks

[ollie]

Hi MikaR,
I will be racing the RB One this weekend so will give you further information early next week.

However I have changed the shock pistons for the 6 hole ones supplied in the spares bag and have filled the shocks with 35WT oil front and 30WT rear.
Along with this I have also drilled 3 of the 6 holes out to 1.4mm, I now find the suspension feels a lot better however this is just as a test I have another 6 hole set with standard holes that I may go back to (I will give you further information on this after the weekend).

[MikaR]

That's great, thanks, waiting for your comments

e: Run in three more taks on the yard, the buggy feels very good even with the stock suspension. Like it!

Mika

[MikaR]

Run-in complete in the wet & snow

[MikaR]

BTW, it seems you can easily switch the rear shocks to the front side of the tower and route the rear stabilizer under the rear torque bar. There's a place for it. It seems the french guy did that in it's debute in the french nationals around a week ago.

Here's a pic...

[ollie]

Raced the RB One last weekend for the first time down at my local track at Ledbury and had a great day. The club have worked hard since I was there last and they have created an astro track that is good not just for 8th scale rally-cross but also a great track for 10th scale buggies also.

The RB One was great to drive it seems well balanced and stable giving you confidence to allow you to go faster.
The RB engine and Savox servo package is great, with the engine powerful enough to keep pace with the other buggy’s but its power is smooth and controllable making the RB One feel easy to drive. The Savox servos have plenty of power and speed to enable you to have great control of the buggy that gives you confidence to go faster.
On the day I ran with 7,000(F) 5,000(c) 2,000(R) diff oils and having changed the shock pistons to the optional six holed pistons with 3 of the holes drilled to 1.4mm the suspension was good. I ran 35wt oil in the front and settled for 35wt rear after starting with 30wt.

Since the weekend I have fully stripped the RB One to see if there was any wear of the plastics and gears etc. and I can report that there is no wear at all.

In my opinion the RB One is a great buggy and comes with a great package for any racer of any ability, and with RB making this a ready to race buggy out the box it’s a great choice for anyone new to the hobby or to any established racer looking to make a move into 8th scale rally-cross racing.

[MikaR]

Hi Ollie, thanks for the race report, appreciated!
Sounds really good! Looking forward to our season start, too.
I can second the buggy feels good out of the box and with those tweaks it will be even better I believe.

Here's my car rear shocks turned on the front side of the tower

[Rick1486]

Hi, sorry if I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I've just got back into r/c & got myself and RB One for my troubles.

May I ask what difference moving the rear shocks in front of the tower actually makes, and also for an idiots' guide (with piccies if possible please!) as to how to route the rear stabilizer under the rear torque bar.

What ride height are you working at on your vehicles? I've seen a few YouTube videos as to how to check it, with people both dropping it from about 6 inches off the deck and checking it & also with them pushing the suspension a few times until it settles before checking - however, when I've done these methods I get completely different readings - doh!!

The RB stock setup sheet says 23mm front and 26mm rear, which seems awfully low when I've looked at the car, so I thought I'd ask you current owners.

Lastly (for now lol!) what about spares & upgrades? Is there anything you can recommend to improve the buggy (apart from replacing the cheap & nasty tx) & who actually has spares in stock regularly instead of saying they'll have to get them in from the distributor?

Thanks very much in advance for your help, it's much appreciated.

Cheers
Rick

[MikaR]

Hi Rick,

it's cool, still have the car myself, too.
Very little running last year, but more this season I hope.

Not sure what you can achieve by swapping the rear shocks, but at least it's then a bit easier to work on the rear diff as the torque bar is routed on the front side of the rear diff box. There is a plate for this, removed by a screw. In order to swap the shocks you have to also swap the rear A-arms upside down (or side to side). It's actually quite easy once you study the parts a bit.

Re upgrades there is a new R-model coming out. It has a lot of upgraded parts, some material changes and some geometrial like the new steering servo saver and ackerman plate I believe.

Myself I'm planning to get the new CNC diff plates for the rear as they are known to brake in bigger jumps (broke one already, too).

I also recommend the new front drive shafts/CVDs. I have upgraded the shafts with Durango shafts (more material around the neck) that are the same length.

What do you think?

[Rick1486]

Sounds like a plan mate.

i did see a report on the new R model and it does look very nice indeed, so if it's possible to blag some parts from that, I'll definitely try them - the only problem seems to be finding a UK supplier with actual stock of RBO parts.

For now though, I've been having real problems - i did the run in exactly as per the manual (when i first got it going it was screaming - i think someone else must have been fiddling with the needles in the shop prior to purchase because they were nothing like the stock settings as stated in the instructions!), but it's some years since i've been into R/C in any form and despite doing what the manual says to do in respect of the idle air screw and low end needle I had a real problem in that it would shut down every time the brakes were applied (all this was done with the model off the ground) which i think is a problem with either the idle air screw or the low end needle. I eventually got it to idle without stalling and when off the ground the wheels would spin under throttle, but when I took it for its' first real world run (all trims set to 0) it initially just crawled along then wouldn't move at all when the throttle was pulled. The only way I could get it moving was by turning the throttle trim all the way up and then off it went, but of course didn't respond to trigger pulls, only to the brake when activated on the tx.
It did seem a little unstable and upon checking the ride height it was coming in at about 35mm front and rear, as opposed to the stock setting of 26/23mm & the screw thread gap on the shocks was about 8mm as opposed to about 3 or 4mm stock setting. I've screwed them up now to the stock setting which has lowered the car to about 26ish mm & hopefully restored the carb to factory settings so fingers crossed it may work better next time.
I've also found that having greased the drive shafts front and rear, the front boots (wheel end) just will not stay in their grooves & once again nobody seems to have stock immediately available. Have you got any suggestions for this as my lhs said just leave them alone & don't worry about them, or would you let me know the Durango part no & supplier you got yours from (& how much!!).

Are the CNC diff plates already out or are they part of the new R spec?

Also, do you know of any other compatible upgrades/replacements from other buggies that will fit the One mate?

Sorry for so many questions but I could really do with all the help I can get.

Cheers
Rick

[MikaR]

Hi Rick,
I don't think the R parts are out just yet so we have wait for a while.

If I remember correctly I also had a very high idle which I resolved by screwing out the low speed needle some (1/2 turn?) but it's been a year so I'm not fully sure..

I have dumped all the boots except for the center drive shafts.

I got the Durango parts from A-main (U.S.)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...iveshaft-Set-1
I replaced the wheel axles with the RB One axles, a direct fit

[Rick1486]

Cheers for that.

I had the RBO out on the field today having restored the carb to factory settings as per the RB website. I have to say it ran really well, albeit it does need tuning up.

It seems that the front of the bodyshell is being caught by the allen screw head on the steering plate (r/h/s) when doing a left turn - it's clear on the other side but does catch every time when the wheels are turned to the left. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment on the body post to allow me to raise the body by 1 - 2 mm which is all it needs, so very frustrated atm. Got any ideas? Googling the body shell does bring back some unpainted stuff but it's really difficult to find the pre-painted shells in the UK. Do you know of any other bodyshells which will fit the vehicle?

Cheers
Rick

[MikaR]

Good to hear!

I checked my car has no such clearing issue withthe body. Are you sure all parts & screws are correctly ?

[Rick1486]

Hi Mika, I'll double triple check, but one thing that does spring to mind is that I noticed that the steering plate does have a gash out of it on right side top of it. Something must be catching so i 'll have to have it apart and check.
Cheers Rick

[MikaR]

Hi Rick,
yes check it and compare to the manual, ok