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#301
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#302
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Interesting first night with my 22, electrical issues and no practise is a good start.
In the qualifies I had massive understeer, changing things to combat this but nothing seem to change, the front end of the car felt dead and had no rebound, so rebuilt the shocks, and turns out (as discussed else where) that the o-rings are pinching onto the shaft causing it to bind up, so unwound the o-ring cap a bit until the shocks were free, what a difference, over half a second a lap quicker, finished 3rd in the end, and ended up with laps competing with the top runners. Think this is a issue that needs resolving. Think the car will be super quick and pleased to be with the front runners only after 4 races (1 decent one ![]() Will post setup later in week for the moto arena Paul
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PR Racing - Insideline Racing - Zen Racing - GForce - PureRC - Puppy Paint
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#303
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Would using green slime on the o rings help matters
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atomic carbon cr2;b44;novak;speed passion;reedy lipos. |
#304
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Funnily, not had an issue with my shocks (apart from really disliking 4 hole pistons).
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#305
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Any updated setups from the team for outdoors? I would guess a lot more setup development has happened since the car has been released.
Cheers, Ben |
#306
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Question on you guys drilling holes in your ball cups. What is the easiest way to do this? I was thinking of taking a punch or body reamer to mark a spot on the inside of the ball cup, then drill the appropriate size hole.
Any other ways of doing it that would be easier or better? |
#307
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#308
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#309
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My personnal brass weight system for mid motor (70g), splittable into two parts:
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() and side brass weight (23g each) design to be inserted into plastic sidewalls: ![]()
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http://www.mid44.com/ |
#310
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Looks good
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#311
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They are fantastic, can we buy them from you?
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DEX 410, ZX-5 FS2, Losi 22. |
#312
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What screw set is that your using ?
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#313
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why do you guys drill a hole in your ball cups?
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#314
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its so that you can unscrew the ball stud using a driver in through the hole, which avoids the need to keep taking the ball cup off... constantly taking the ball cup off can stretch the plastic slightly and cause your ball cups to become saggy and not very tight!
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#315
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To adjust them while still on the car.
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#316
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It's only a hand made prototype. No release planed
![]() Screws are common socket head screw, tapered with lathe. I prefer using a 2.5mm hex driver than it's little 2mm brother ![]() Quote:
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http://www.mid44.com/ |
#317
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UK baseline setup
is it posted on the web somewhere?
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o0ple Trader Feedback NE Venue's New & Old my space on YouTube CFR RCTV Channel Glenn Atterton BRCA 2005 1/10th Off-Road Veterans Champion LMP12 National Champion 2003/2004 / F3 class |
#318
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![]() That along with others are on PetitRC: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/Se...TwentyTwo.html |
#319
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Has anyone noticed a lot of front camber change under load?
I'm currently running the setup out of the manual (camber link on #1 (inner hole) on tower with 2mm spacers and 0mm spacers on the caster block) with 1 degree negative camber, to gain a base platform to build from. Is this something common to this setup?
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KECKSpeed - Seat of your Pants R/C Racing www.keckspeed.co.uk ryan@keckspeed.co.uk |
#320
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www.wbmcc.com |
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