X4TE testing.

[Robbiejuk]

Originally Posted by ben44

here a new option

Excellent, about time they brought those out. Extra tuning options to

[buhade]

I have made a super mod for our 4WD car.

I run the the rear arms from the X2 2WD.

Following items are needed.

rear hubs 2WD x2 (i use the 1° in reverse)
Rear axle X2
Diffscrew X2

I also turned the dampers forward as you can see it in post before.

Have Fun

Andreas Janda
Ansmann Factory driver

[buhade]

FILE0015.jpg

so you can run the 2WD wheels!!!!

[timmy121]

by running to 2wd back end, how does it affect the car is it wider - narrower ect
cheers pete

[buhade]

you have to you use the hex mounts (4mm) from the x2. The arms from 2wd and 4WD have the same lenght.

The difference is the angled arm from the X4, the wheel sit more higher, so you have a lower center of gravity- but only used on american tracks or carpet.

On EURO tracks it should be better with a little bit higher roll center, because of bumps.

I tested the 2WD Reedy Race Amezcua setup, the 4WD arms in the X2 2wd, it only work on flat surfaces, I was about 0,8 to 1 second slower as with my personally standard setup - so the Idea was to put the 2WD arms in the 4WD.

I will test it at the austrian nationals next week.

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by timmy121

by running to 2wd back end, how does it affect the car is it wider - narrower ect
cheers pete

The 2wd arms are longer by about 3-5mm (sorry I would have to re measure to be certain). However the width of the 4wd hub is wider by about 2-3mm.

So the 2wd arm and hub will be wider than the 4wd arm and hub not by much but still wider.

The longer arm (2wd) should aid stability, the bent/shorter arm (4wd) should give more droop and quicker corner rotation.

[buhade]

my car fits into the box, the only difference is that 4WD arm is angled, so the center of gravity is lower with the 4WD arm (the arms are nearer to the ground)

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by buhade

my car fits into the box, the only difference is that 4WD arm is angled, so the center of gravity is lower with the 4WD arm (the arms are nearer to the ground)

Please dont think I was challenging your knowledge as I wasn't.
I agree either configeration will fit in the box and the overal lenger (arm + hub + hex) will be pretty close to the same. But the 2wd arm is longer by a few mm with a shorter hub.

[racingben]

Originally Posted by Cameo

Well I finally had a chance to install my new rear gear box. If your not aware there's a new part available TO4039 which allows the rear CVA to sit flat rather than on the angle (see pic's). If you've ever stripped the rear pinion then this should help prevent that.

I had to re shim the pinion as it was too tight I put both shims to the front near the pinion. (Pinion, 2x shim bearing bearing).

Att 1 the old gear box, 2 the new one.

Is thisnonly available from team c or can you buy this from ansmann? Any idea on part number?

[Cameo]

Originally Posted by racingben

Is thisnonly available from team c or can you buy this from ansmann? Any idea on part number?

The Team C part number is TO4039 (2011 rear gear box case)
I'm sorry but I'm not sure about Ansmann

[Battle_axe]

is flipping the rear wishbones still thought to be needed? i am looking at trying to get the weight more rearward as i feel the car is lacking big time in rear end

[MikePimlott]

Originally Posted by Battle_axe

is flipping the rear wishbones still thought to be needed? i am looking at trying to get the weight more rearward as i feel the car is lacking big time in rear end

I wouldnt say needed,
I have added a brass weight to mine to get the rear end to stick.

I ran at RHR oople race and moved the shocks to the front, it was a a bit slippy in places and a few tight turns, moving them to the front made it quicker for me out of corners.

At Southport national it was high grip, and i moved them to the back again to calm the car down.

Rear BB shocks are set as:
30WT losi oil
6x1.4mm hole piston
medium spring (will have to check this when home)

Mike

[Battle_axe]

thats where i was gonna go next with mine i will look more tonight i think i may need to find a way of mounting the inner ball stud verticaly aswell as i feel the ability to put a washer under this stud is an important one

[Robbiejuk]

Originally Posted by MikePimlott

I wouldnt say needed,
I have added a brass weight to mine to get the rear end to stick.
Mike

How much does your brass weigh mike?

Originally Posted by Battle_axe

i think i may need to find a way of mounting the inner ball stud verticaly aswell as i feel the ability to put a washer under this stud is an important one

Some of the yokomo driver have made a carbon plate which mounts across the the two front screws which secure the Shocktower bulkead.

Like this one :



I would make some but I am rubbish at cutting Carbon. If you do some I will gladly buy and test

Are you two doing the F2's at silverstone this year?

[MikePimlott]

Originally Posted by Robbiejuk

How much does your brass weigh mike?

It weighs 65g,



I like the Yokomo carbon link idea, but it does alter the angle of the link quite a bit.
There is a new part coming which has 4 holes for the camber link instead of 2.

http://www.teamcracing.net/index.php...mart&Itemid=71

Mike

[RogerM]

Mike, so long as the links are stiff enough (should be) then the angle of the link makes very little difference to the geometry (unless very extreme of course).

[Robbiejuk]

I don't think it would be too bad of an angle if you shift the ball joint on the hub to the other side. It might change them a bit on the upgraded alloy hubs though.

I would make some myself but as I say I am pants at cutting things out I can draw them in Cad but I can't cut for toffee.