Lazer zxr

[Welshy40]

Im in the same boat and tend to avoid using Demon anyway as i prefer to talk to someone and try to avoid buying online. I would have spent a grand with him this year alone but as he isnt the brightest of individuals and wont deal with you over the phone i now shop elsewhere. Sorry.

[oli4ke]

Originally Posted by alcyon

Oli you have LA-21 ?

Yes, done mate!

[isobarik]

Ron they are on theire way same as for you Ema.

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Im in the same boat and tend to avoid using Demon anyway as i prefer to talk to someone and try to avoid buying online. I would have spent a grand with him this year alone but as he isnt the brightest of individuals and wont deal with you over the phone i now shop elsewhere. Sorry.

silly me, i checked with my local hobby shop, he says he has them, will be buying tonight.

[alcyon]

look what i found guys. i also found a lot of OT-17, OT-18 and OT-5 but didnt buy those.
fixing the ZX arms last night, i found out what ema told me before, if using the outer hole on LA-59, the front track width with the 2.2" wheels is narrower than the back. i dont know why the front wheels are offset in, and the rear wheels offset out. so the only choice i have is to install LA-59 using the inner hole and 65.5 CVD. problem is, with the inner hole, the caster angle is more, which is good, but the hubs pivot at an angle, that means friction on the arms. looks like i have to grind the inner rear part of the arms also. Another funny thing is the lower rib on OT-16 seem to be hitting the back part of the arm. looks like i have to do more grinding. looks like rc car action was right in their november 91 issue. No one at kyosho ever built a Lazer !

[alcyon]

sorry Oli, there were no rims at all in the shop ! i am reposting the pic cause the earlier one had an error.

[Welshy40]

Im confused on your comments, attach pics please as I get no binding or grinding at all.

[alcyon]

Welshy, i meant the binding occurs only at near or full shock stroke, with the arms parrallel, you will not notice any binding. whether you place the hingepins in the inner or outer hole, the binding will happen on the rib on OT-16 knuckle, at full shock stroke. but if you place the hingepins on the inner hole, you get additional caster, and also the c hub rubs a little on the inner part of the arm, becuase of its angle. look at the 3 pictures i attached. you can see the c hub tends to touch the arms the further in they go. and notice the angle the hub is pivoting at, that gives it the caster.
to test the effect on your car, you probably need to disasemble the upper link, and the servo connection, then try to move the hub at full negative camber, then move the kuckle left and right, both at zero camber and negative camber, with shocks at full stroke. lastly read this article from rc car action november 91, written by frank masi, concentrate on the chapter bump and grind.

[isobarik]

Alcyon yes a little dremling is always neaded.
You dont have the hole article scanned ????

Shall post some pics soon of my daughters racer as soon as i get the body painted, there i have the sp-107 and LA-219 parts on so that you can se. if it will do the job.

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

Im still confused.

If you have issues such as steering where you get toe in or toe out when you disconnect the shocks from the buggy totally and just up the wishbone and drop it then that means the actual steering section on the chassis is not correct and you will need to space the steering plate from the steering plastic parts (preferably the steering plate for the ZX is better that the ZXR) to zero the bump steer. This is what I believe your on about. I cant understand that if your talking about the knuckle arms how your getting binding in any position unless and this is the big question, what are the front wishbones your using as if not Kyosho then explains why your getting this problem.

Relating to the bump & grind chapter - If Kyosho wishbones I have had to file a little chunk off in the wishbone (in second picture you can just make out a groove for the bottom of the screw to go into as I couldn't be bothered to cut the screw bottom off) to account for the knuckle arms full lock, but when done the steering lock is plenty and no more is needed. Pics are attached of mine and in the inner hole of the castor block so giving a much wider front end.

The write up on the magazine isn't that accurate but then again this was written not long after the car got released and used a lot of items that were made by A&L and hate to say it but the steering items and various other items including the alloy front castor block which bends big time on impact (I've had and tested to destruction most things for this car) that were used were not as good, in my opinion anyway. I did however use the motor mount as it was good to use with the rear top deck mount as these did dissipate the heat from the motor so you could gear much higher, and of course the pivot block holders.

Update me with more info as I would like to get to resolve all of your issues so you can get out there and have some fun.

[alcyon]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

If you have issues such as steering where you get toe in or toe out when you disconnect the shocks from the buggy totally and just up the wishbone and drop it then that means the actual steering section on the chassis is not correct and you will need to space the steering plate from the steering plastic parts (preferably the steering plate for the ZX is better that the ZXR) to zero the bump steer. what are the front wishbones your using as if not Kyosho then explains why your getting this problem. welshy, i am not talking about disconnecting the shocks or bump steer, bump steer is a problem i will have to fix later. my shocks are connected , but my steering linkages arent. my shocks are at full extension, using the outer most hole on the arm. i beleive with kyosho arms there will be some problems also becuase the article did say so. but to be sure i could always try kyosho arms. i am now using THE MPP arms, but i beleive they have copied all the spacings well.At full shock extension, the rib on OT-16 is rubbing a little against the arm, there is some noticable friction although not so great, but i beleive this could effect steering when the one of the front wheels leave the ground.

Relating to the bump & grind chapter - If Kyosho wishbones I have had to file a little chunk off in the wishbone (in second picture you can just make out a groove for the bottom of the screw to go into as I couldn't be bothered to cut the screw bottom off) to account for the knuckle arms full lock, but when done the steering lock is plenty and no more is needed. Pics are attached of mine and in the inner hole of the castor block so giving a much wider front end.

The write up on the magazine isn't that accurate but then again this was written not long after the car got released and used a lot of items that were made by A&L and hate to say it but the steering items and various other items including the alloy front castor block which bends big time on impact (I've had and tested to destruction most things for this car) that were used were not as good, in my opinion anyway. I did however use the motor mount as it was good to use with the rear top deck mount as these did dissipate the heat from the motor so you could gear much higher, and of course the pivot block holders.

Update me with more info as I would like to get to resolve all of your issues so you can get out there and have some fun.Thanks so much for your help and concern, i appreciate it.

....

[alcyon]

Originally Posted by isobarik

Alcyon yes a little dremling is always neaded.
You dont have the hole article scanned ????

Shall post some pics soon of my daughters racer as soon as i get the body painted, there i have the sp-107 and LA-219 parts on so that you can se. if it will do the job.

mvh isobarik

iso, i have the whole magazine, and the whole article scanned, but its in so many pages, you want to see all of it ?

[Welshy40]

You know what i think the issue may be, simplest solution may be the answer. As you can see im using the same knuckle arms and going by what you say the wishbones are identical then it could be just the way the king pins have been screwed in. One question i never asked but are the hubs from the zx/zxr or zx-5 or zx-s? Now if from the zx-5 or s then the spacers (washers) need to be done correctly, personally i use the biggest washer from the castor block pack and skinny at the bottom of the knuckle arm and a skinny at the top as that stops the metal flange hitting the wishbone. i forgot about that so apologies for not mentioning it earlier.

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by alcyon

iso, i have the whole magazine, and the whole article scanned, but its in so many pages, you want to see all of it ?

Yeah would love to see all of it.

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

sorry for the late reply guys. my boss was breathing down my neck, and then after i left for home had to do the household plumbing, otherwise the wifey will think i am pretty useless.
i am using LA-59 . i solved the problem by grinding the hubs and arms, and also switching OT-16 to the opposite sides, that means right go to left and vice versa. i find that the ribs in this arrangement is a little bit higher, so i have to grind the arms less. all is cool now guys, just botched up my tyre gluing, i am now trying to remove the glue with some acetone, then i will re glue with a rubber band pressing around the tyres. i am using pro line M3. these super soft modern tyres arent easy to glue right.
iso, i will upload the rest of the articles from my office to my photobucket tommorow morning. gotta sleep now.

[alcyon]

Iso as i promised, here they are, enjoy everyone !

[alcyon]

i just received mY lazer ZX-R Mk2. the condition is very good, and i took some time to have a look at the cars individual parts, here is what i found.
1. the chassis and bearings, diffs have very little wear, the slipper clutch is also in very good condition, the pads are very thick.
2. The tyres are shot, and the shocks need rebuilding.
3. The drive train isnt as smooth as my optima Mid. i think this is normal? i do remember that about my ZX too, cause the belts have many points of "friction" in the gearboxes. To those of you who own both the optima Mid and Lazer, do you agree with me that the Mids drivetrain is smoother, or perhaps there is something wrong with my lazer?
4. It is possible to place the lipo more forward, and make them come closer together under the top deck. but i will have to drill 4 new holes to mount the battery posts. Question is should i stick to the Kyosho posts and bar (80mm spacing), or use the AE B44 posts and Bar (75mm spacing). i tried putting some spacers under the original posts and clamp the lipo, but i beleive under hard knocks and jumps, the lipo will probably shake loose. should a screw clamping system like the B44's be better, even without a lipo tray? the good news is the chassis has PLENTY of space for me to drill new holes. i am still waiting for my B44 battery holder parts to come before making a final decision.

[rondoolaa]

Originally Posted by isobarik

Ron they are on their way, same as for you Ema.

mvh Isobarik

thankyou henrik,

would you prefer me to send you some money for them or search down a few of the parts you mentioned in the list although i think i will have as much luck as you at finding the parts, as i will be using the same web, lol, i know a couple are available but most of them i couldnt find


thanks for the magazine pics alcyon, great read

[isobarik]

Originally Posted by rondoolaa

thankyou henrik,

would you prefer me to send you some money for them or search down a few of the parts you mentioned in the list although i think i will have as much luck as you at finding the parts, as i will be using the same web, lol, i know a couple are available but most of them i couldnt find


thanks for the magazine pics alcyon, great read

Ron

You just have to wait i have some plans............ he he he

Welsh in the need of an cheap gardener ????

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

There is an UK based shop that sells stainless stell screws but what the heck is the name ???

Found it..........rcscrews.co.uk

for those who like to know my PM inbox is not full any more

mvh Isobarik