|
||
|
 |
|
||||||||||||||||||
|
#1
06-02-2012
|
|||
|
|||
Removing mid motor guard?
I've read in one of the set up sheets:
Battery position: up against motor plate with motor guard removed I'm presuming this has the dual effect of moving the battery weight rearwards a couple of mm & introducing more chassis flex in that area? Is that correct? Sounds very good in theory - was just concerned it might lead to the chassis bending in big crashes (as it won't be braced in this area). Has anybody experienced this? 
|
|
#2
06-02-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
Myally removed his and braced it. I have run a plate through to the back, keeping the guard (just removed thickness of the plate and drilled through plate to use existing equipment) have just got to cut a thin piece of foam for the lipos to sit on and all is done. Pm your mobile number and I,ll send a snap.
__________________
Used to have a yokomo, ae B4 and a Losi 22 but was never any good. http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/b4sloth01/
|
|
#3
07-02-2012
|
|||
|
|||
|
Steve's (B4Sloth) creation is a work of art
 But I'm still wondering about running without the motor guard  I believe it is the Simon Reeves outdoor base set up I read it on...
|
|
#4
08-02-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
double post
__________________
Used to have a yokomo, ae B4 and a Losi 22 but was never any good. http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/b4sloth01/
|
|
#5
08-02-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
Hopefully the pic will show what has been done, for those that have Pmd me.
The chassis plate run back as far as i could get it, whilst still allowing for a change in spur and pinion etc. The motor guard, which i run a fan on, has just had the thickness of the brass ground off. Holes in the brass plate allow the chassis screws to come through to the guard, in essence clamping it. The plate needed a slight whack with a hammer to get it to sit flat to the chassis. Two grooves at the back of the brass and just in front of the guard allow the saddles to be held securely. I have added a piece of 2mm black foam to damp the batteries and stop them rubbing (OCD i am afraid). The cut out side pods would take a further piece of foam should there be any sideways movement, although they really are held firmly. Cheap mod, free in fact. No need to faf about with carbon, making braces, etc etc.
__________________
Used to have a yokomo, ae B4 and a Losi 22 but was never any good. http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/b4sloth01/
|
|
#6
11-02-2012
|
||||
|
||||
__________________
Used to have a yokomo, ae B4 and a Losi 22 but was never any good. http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/b4sloth01/
|
|
#7
26-02-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
Whats the velcro held on to in the front? under the battery brace that faces foward?
|
|
#8
26-02-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
Yep, the Velcro just loops under. I also cut the side pods to size so that there was no chance of them sliding?
__________________
Used to have a yokomo, ae B4 and a Losi 22 but was never any good. http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/b4sloth01/
|
|
#9
26-02-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
Have you got a brass sheet there as well does that just sit there or is it taped?
How much does the sheet weigh? could you PM or post some more pics?
|
|
#10
26-02-2012
|
||||
|
||||
|
I've done the same mod as B4 Sloth thanks to his advice by PM, works a treat, neat and tidy and gives a lot of rear end grip.
Haven't tried leaving motor/gearbox brace loose (by removing lower screws) as it does give a lot of chassis flex, a heavy landing could bend a chassis I think, I've bent the top screw through brace into motorplate at some point so there is a lot of bracing going on in that area! I have no issues with rear grip at all with saddle mod and gear diff... Might be one to try in damp/wet or worn grass outdoors though
|
 |
|
|
Team Losi Racing
Linear Mode
