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#261
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Got some part numbers so i can easier look these up?
Also i bought some jconcept hexes, for both front and rear, rear seems to fit, but the front ones am not sure about. |
#262
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Hex: 9750 - Associated B44 Axle Drive Hex 9890 - Team Associated 12mm Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hex, Buggy Rear (B4.1/B44.1) Wheels: 3349 - JConcepts Mono 2.2 4wd Front Buggy Wheels (White) (4) (B44.1) 3348 - JConcepts Mono 2.2 Rear Wheel w/12mm Hex (White) (4) (B4.1/RB5) Thats what you need. |
#263
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Also to add, AE makes their own wheels to fit the front and rear hex on the b4 and b44. Just FYI. |
#264
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Does anyone know if some hobbyshop has "u4172 roll bar set rear" in stock ?
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#265
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Anybody got any experience of belt drive with running around 6.5 on high grip carpet. Can they cope, will the belts be prone to stripping or significant wear.
Already having a bit of trouble with drivetrain and diffs on my b44, so wouldn't want to just switch the problem. Thanks |
#266
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The best thing about a belt drive car is you can adjust the belts tension to stop belt skip ! Its always best to run them as loose as possible but tight enough that it won't slip
__________________
Schumacher Speed Passion Futaba Support from: My Back Pocket Driver - 'Derek' Feedback Link : http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48311 |
#267
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Schumacher - Core RC- Klinik RC- Tekin - Avid |
#268
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Rear roll bars have been released mb models had em in stock but sold out now.
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#269
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Runninv indoors on high grip carpet will always wear the diffs much faster than outdoors.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#270
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I emailed Schumacher before Christmas and they said they hope to have more stock early Jan
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#271
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Thanks for the answers. But I guess I was fishing for views as to how the belts will hold up as opposed to the diffs. I know they take a hammer.
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#272
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Belts, if set correctly, will be fine indoors, as long as in the first couple of weeks of running, you check belt tension after each run, the trick is, not running them to tight or loose, to tight and they stretch to quickly, to loose and they will skip and strip.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#273
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and when its not in use is it a good idea to loosen it? best regards. |
#274
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If you can play it like a guitar string, it is to tight, also if it feels slack, to loose, it is something you will learn. No need to slacken when not in use.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#275
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Ran the k1 today at coastal on a bumpy grass track it was great ... Changed front oil to 40wt and rear to 30wt. Also I shorted the front shock from 22.5 to 21.5mm..
Only problem I had was wen hard on the brakes the rear wud stand up |
#276
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Anyway, very nice car to drive, jumps excellent, am by far not the fastest driver around, and haven't really driven a lot of 4wd, but am really liking this one so far. |
#277
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Anyone tried the cut bladders on the k1 ?.... Anyway well done Schumacher great car so far.. |
#278
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the only problem i had was i had to keep pre loading the rear shocks , otherwise the ride height would drop , the only thing i have done is run it with cut bladders ?? , apart from that wicked |
#279
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I only run the cut bladders and can't really fault the car.
__________________
Absima - InsideLineRacing - Puppy Paint |
#280
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I didn't have that problem .. I think if I ran different tires I wud have gone better . Today I used Sch yellow and yellow cut stuggers while the top two were using Dboots front and back ... |
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