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#801
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Hi Guys, after a bit of set up help.
I race at Maritime raceway in Kent and my bmax 2 is pretty good but I could do with a bit more intial turn in on the car. I am running Lee's set up, the only difference is I am running Losi Blue front springs (Did try kit springs but made the understeer worse in my case) http://l-m-racing.co.uk/?p=596 Any ideas welcome from you set up guru's! |
#802
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Quote:
You could try the BMAX4-2 rear arm mod. They are a touch narrower and do give some more steering without rear grip loss. What front tyres are you using?
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Team Yokomo - YZ-2CAL3 | YZ-2DTM3 | YZ-4SF2 | YZ-2T | YZ-2DTM Worlds | YZ-2DTM x2 | YRX-12 x2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10electric | Batley Buggy Club | YORCC | RHR | MB Models --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
#803
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Hi Neal,
Im running yellow cut staggers on the front and mini pins on the rear. The losi Blue is 3.8lb I am running the Bmax II rear arms (I wrote the guide on here and Petit rc) which has helped the front end feel of the car The car is ok once its in the corner but i would like it to have a sharper initial turn in. I wonder if I could mod B4 25 deg caster blocks onto it? |
#804
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Hi Mark,
At the regional on Sunday just gone I ran front AE 35, 1.6 2hole, AE blue, shocks fully in on tower, middle wishbone and rear AE, 1.6 2hole, AE green. 1mm spacer front bulkhead, fully in on tower, outside wishbone. 2k diff oil. Big improvement when running a shorty forward with 80g of weight compared to a saddle lipo. Everything else as worlds kit setting. Dave
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Schumacher Nosram Intelect Sanwa www.rccarshop.co.uk www.xtreme-rc.org.uk/ www.maritimeracing.info/ Trader feedback, http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71706 |
#805
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Thanks Dave, much appreciated
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#806
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Just some info: I've been trying the TRX2362 x-rings, which seem to work very well so far. I've used the AE shock shaft guide mod, together with the 2 small clear spacers and the tall white spacer in the TRX package instead of the yokomo spacers. The TRX x-rings are tighter around the shock shaft than the original o-rings (or the AE rings which I've also tried), so they need almost no pressure on them from the spacers (the AE shock guide also adds about 0,8mm of spacing btw).
There's almost no friction in the shock like this, no leaking and no rebound building up. http://www.trxxs-winkel.nl/trx2362-s...rs-p-1811.html |
#807
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I hope, i have enough grip and steering with saddle pack/rear configuration on low traction dirt surface. Tires are wrong. I wait for the yokomo hex conversion till i order new wheels.
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#808
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In case of an aluminum chassis you may want to use the plastic battery brace for more flex. Otherwise it should be fine; more weight in the rear will help a lot.
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#809
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I use the plastic chassis
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#810
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I've changed to the full 'worlds' chassis to stiffen up to car a little bit. Kinda curious how that will work out next time at the track. My front bulk-head added slop to my steering, but now with the alu there is no slop so should work alright.
And also, two new painted bodies on my way. Will post pictures when I receive them, all mounted up. @Mihael nice looking car.
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Numquam cedunt victores, numquam ignavi vincunt. |
#811
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I'm kind of liking the ball diff grease that came with the kit and want to get some more. Can anyone tell me if this is the same stuff.
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Race Cars: Associated B6 & B6D Vintage race cars: Associated RC10's, RC10T, B2 & T2 Kyosho Ultima XL Losi JRX2, JRX Pro & Pro SE Yokomo YZ10 94 The Veterans Inner Circle. Sponsored with Pot Noodle and Tunnocks. |
#812
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CS-DG is the normal grease. CS-HDL's viscosity is higher than the one that's in the kit, but that's not a problem in off-road racing.
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Numquam cedunt victores, numquam ignavi vincunt. |
#813
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yesterday i ordered the new front hex conversion from team yokomo.eu ,today it arrives :-) great :-)
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#814
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Balls
What's the best Diff balls to use with the bmax2 diff rings Carbide or Ceramic..??
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Stewart Baldridge -------------------- Nemo Racing Yokomo Yz-2. Yokomo Yx-4sf Sanwa http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158845 |
#815
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Ceramic balls lasts longer, but takes a bit of time to get to the sweet spot. They do tend to slip a bit more than carbide balls.
I've been using Ceramic all the way and it works great in the Yokomo diff. But they are more expensive than carbide balls. If you can get your hands on ceramic I would take ceramic, else carbide should be great too. If you do regular maintenance to your diffs there should be no better, only ceramic last longer.
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Numquam cedunt victores, numquam ignavi vincunt. |
#816
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Quote:
The rear bmax4-2 arms make the car wider |
#817
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Have you measured? or compared with a car on stock arms? The rear end is narrower with the BMAX4-2 arms.
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Team Yokomo - YZ-2CAL3 | YZ-2DTM3 | YZ-4SF2 | YZ-2T | YZ-2DTM Worlds | YZ-2DTM x2 | YRX-12 x2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10electric | Batley Buggy Club | YORCC | RHR | MB Models --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
#818
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Nope, wider......
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#819
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Can anyone recommend some 2mm and 3mm shims/spacers for the inner and outer hingepins and the kingpins.
Just want to replace the Plastics kit parts and reduce a little slop. |
#820
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?
I've measured and compared mine (with bmax4-2 arms) and a couple of standard ones with kit arms. Mine is narrower at the rear. I'll do it again and take photos when i can.
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Team Yokomo - YZ-2CAL3 | YZ-2DTM3 | YZ-4SF2 | YZ-2T | YZ-2DTM Worlds | YZ-2DTM x2 | YRX-12 x2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10electric | Batley Buggy Club | YORCC | RHR | MB Models --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
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