BMAX4 lll Balance weight

[PJC]

Do most people keep BMAX4 lll Balance weight fitted or remove it. I am in progress of building the car and was wondering if to fit it or not.

[bomber]

I asked the same question the other day, it seems people remove it, my opinion is that the car is heavy enough

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...342#post874342

[PJC]

Thanks. Just read that post. Agreed, it does seem heavy enough.

[neallewis]

Yup as Bomber said. I run on a lot of low tractions surfaces, and found that the extra weight didn't help, rather the rear end broke away more easily with the weight in.

Now the balance weight may come in when running the shorty chassis for a bit extra weight at the rear. Not tried that as yet.

[PJC]

Thanks Neal. I'm moving over from a B44 and will run saddles to start with. Build quality is excellent as it was with the Bmax2. The only small problem is trying to convert the shock oil from the setup sheets to ae shock oil (wt).
Need some spares for the main things that people break too.

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by PJC

Thanks Neal. I'm moving over from a B44 and will run saddles to start with. Build quality is excellent as it was with the Bmax2. The only small problem is trying to convert the shock oil from the setup sheets to ae shock oil (wt).
Need some spares for the main things that people break too.

I really like the saddles chassis car, just converted to the alloy shorty chassis, but not run it as yet.

Try my latest RHR astro setup if you run on similar surface. to be fair i use this setup at Batley outdoors (multi grip level surface, old worn low traction astro and grass), plus I also used the same setup baring a lighter rear anti-roll bar, and Reedy 7.5 motor at RHR dirt for the Invernational (on the proline holeshot tyre). My setup seems to work well and suits me. I've just also motored up to a 6.5 Orca. The 5.5 is a beast on the lower traction tracks. I only used it on high traction and big outdoor tracks as the 7.5's I have felt a bit sluggish with it being a heavy car.

Newer AE shock oils have the CST rating printed on the bottle. 35wt = 350cst, 40wt = 500cst, and the odd numbers are almost in between. I use this chart: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/OilChart.pdf
which has some inconsistencies with the CST values printed on AE bottles, but gets you close.


Parts wise, there was a recent post on here listing what you need, but typically front gearbox top and possibly shock tower. Kit 3mm shock tower breaks easily, never broken the uprated 4mm one. broken lots of gearbox tops, however sine I've been running a front shock tower protector, I've not broken any.
I've done a spur, a front and a rear wishbone and my 1st batch kit hingepins were over hardened and snapped really easy. This issue was sorted in later batch kits. Plastic rear hubs do break (as they do on the bmax2), but I upgraded to the alloy ones when building my kit.
Get the heavy duty rear roll bars. They really help with the rear traction roll grip loss from the heavy car.
I found some of the kit wheel bearings didn't last so well. One of my fronts exploded. check them. I've replaced almost all with blueseal bearings now, which seem to hold up a bit better. Bearing are a wear and tear service item anyway and I like to keep them running free.