What 2wd car c4.2 or yokomo bmax-2

pb1 · #1 01-10-2013

As above looking to replace my c4.1. Which means the c4,2 upgrade plus replacing all the worn parts from the old car and up dating to the big bore shocks.
Or go for the yokomo bmax 2. Have seen the go round car looks very good

Any help would be good

blue_pinky · #2 01-10-2013

I've had both cars...and loved them both!

Of the 2...The Centro was probably a tiny bit quicker out of the box...bit more lively and nimble, but certain parts wear quite quickly and I could never keep the chassis straight for very long so moved to the Yoke...and haven't looked back!

The quality of plastics and build on the Yoke is fantastic, and the metal chassis has added some of that Centro agility too.

New Centro looks to have addressed the main wear problem parts though...the rear hinge pin braces.

pb1 · #3 01-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue_pinky

I've had both cars...and loved them both!

Of the 2...The Centro was probably a tiny bit quicker out of the box...bit more lively and nimble, but certain parts wear quite quickly and I could never keep the chassis straight for very long so moved to the Yoke...and haven't looked back!

The quality of plastics and build on the Yoke is fantastic, and the metal chassis has added some of that Centro agility too.

New Centro looks to have addressed the main wear problem parts though...the rear hinge pin braces.

Thanks for the info yok here we come

neallewis · #4 01-10-2013

I went from a c4.1 to a yok, and the quality difference is night and day. The yok works fantastically out of the box, all I added was some harder front springs and ae sized front axles so I could use my stock of wheels and tyres. Sure I've added some bling bits now, but not needed from day one to perform. The yok has been the most durable car I've owned, the only breakage I've had was a rear upper link plastic ball end pulling off the turnbukle, and a loose servosaver.

If you race on high grip tracks, then sure the new Ali chassis version is the one to get. If however you are going into the winter indoor season on low traction tracks, then the plastic chassis generates unreal amounts of grip. I prefer a ball diff too. The offer on at mb models right now of the v1 kit plus Ali chassis is ace. Just add in the Ali idler gears. Some people have had problems with stripping the plastic ones, mine were fine, just replaced them last week with Ali, but they were still perfectly serviceable.

For me it's a no brainer, the yok is everything you could hope the centro could be, but even better.

daz · #5 01-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by neallewis

I went from a c4.1 to a yok, and the quality difference is night and day. The yok works fantastically out of the box, all I added was some harder front springs and ae sized front axles so I could use my stock of wheels and tyres. Sure I've added some bling bits now, but not needed from day one to perform. The yoke has been the most durable car I've owned, the only breakage I've had was a rear upper link plastic ball end pulling off the turnbukle, and a loose servosaver.

If you race on high grip tracks, then sure the new Ali chassis version is the one to get. If however you are going into the winter indoor season on low traction tracks, then the plastic chassis generates unreal amounts of grip. I prefer a ball diff too. The offer on at mb models right now of the v1 kit plus Ali chassis is ace. Just add in the Ali idler gears. Some people have had problems with stripping the plastic ones, mine were fine, just replaced them last week with Ali, but they were still perfectly serviceable.

For me it's a no brainer, the yok is everything you could hope the centro could be, but even better.

At York indoors I find the alloy chassis to work better than the plaggy one. It makes the car alot more agile, and gives it a lot more turn in, IMO I found the plaggy one generate too much rear end and pushed to much on the front on the turns in and out.

neallewis · #6 01-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by daz

At York indoors I find the alloy chassis to work better than the plaggy one. It makes the car alot more agile, and gives it a lot more turn in, IMO I found the plaggy one generate too much rear end and pushed to much on the front on the turns in and out.

Fair enough. I've not run the ali chassis at York yet. next time i'm there i'll run them back to back... unless I do that at Batley first. new baby about to drop so need to stay local these next two weeks.

Have you run a gear diff?

Col · #7 01-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by daz

At York indoors I find the alloy chassis to work better than the plaggy one. It makes the car alot more agile, and gives it a lot more turn in, IMO I found the plaggy one generate too much rear end and pushed to much on the front on the turns in and out.

Oh my god... I'm shocked! A sensible post from Daz?
I might delete it so as not to ruin his image

mikeyscott · #8 01-10-2013

Can the yokomo take hex wheels all round? Got a load of Kyosho wheels

blue_pinky · #9 01-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Can the yokomo take hex wheels all round? Got a load of Kyosho wheels

Not out of the box no...rear is pin, front is metric shaft/bearings.

I suspect you could probably get hex adapters to fit though...there is a front axle replacement that take you to AE bearing size...which would then allow you to use one of the AE hex adapters up front...I think a couple of manufacturers make those adapters now too. Not sure on rears, but suspect you could find something to do the job!

I have my old stocks of AE wheels, so not had to look into that one.

pb1 · #10 02-10-2013

Doses any body no when the bmax.ver 2 will be out ????? Looks very good from the pis I have seen

DrPaul · #11 02-10-2013

Yokomo Europe are posting they have them so its going to be onlys days before they are in the UK.

The difference between the original kit and the V2 is the aluminium chassis with composite side pods, aluminium idler gears for the transmission and steel diff gear internal.

MB models have a deal on for the V1 kit with the ali chassis for £199.99 just buy the aluminium idler gears for £14.00, the ball diff included in the V1 will give you more adjustment if you are racing on different tracks. The rest is the same as the V2 and you get the plastic chassis as well.

neallewis · #12 02-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by pb1

Doses any body no when the bmax.ver 2 will be out ????? Looks very good from the pis I have seen

it's out. watch MB models website today for stock update.

eb4_boy · #13 02-10-2013

CML Distribution had the V2 kits arrive yesterday.

neallewis · #14 02-10-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrPaul

Yokomo Europe are posting they have them so its going to be onlys days before they are in the UK.

The difference between the original kit and the V2 is the aluminium chassis with composite side pods, aluminium idler gears for the transmission and steel diff gear internal.

MB models have a deal on for the V1 kit with the ali chassis for £199.99 just buy the aluminium idler gears for £14.00, the ball diff included in the V1 will give you more adjustment if you are racing on different tracks. The rest is the same as the V2 and you get the plastic chassis as well.

Yup, i've just been and picked up a V1 kit plus ali chassis from MB myself this morning in this last hour. Ball diff is better for our style of high grip carpet/no traction gym floor indoors tracks. Gear diff may be advantageous for consistent grip tracks, but for playing with different oil grades quickly you need two. I prefer the ball diff of the v1 kit.

mikeyscott · #15 02-10-2013

£199, now that's a bargain