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#1
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#2
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Is that raising the cells above the slope in the chassis?
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#3
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Nice looking conversion.
Just wondering how you found the car behaved before & after,as with mine to get it driving to suit me i had to move the battery forward as far as possible ( by removing the fwd battery stop and adding 40gms there as well) using a short servo, all to get more weight over the front, after this the car was planted, this was on indoor astro, next week we move to outdoor grass.. ![]() What surface do you race on ? |
#4
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Well I use it most on Belgian Astro tracks like MBV Kampenhout and i must say it is great.. I find it better because you can go faster in corners without the car breaking out at the rear... the weight ratio is 65%rear /35% front but i am now testing with higher front weight ratio... Ill keep you updated
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#5
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how do u measure the weight ratio?
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#6
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__________________
www.rc-offroad.be Never argue with a stupid man. He will drag you down to his level and beat you because of his experience. |
#7
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You disassemble the whole car and weigh every piece carefully. You add up the numbers and calculate the front vs rear weight. If that doesn't work then maybe the ancient Maya culture knows what to do!
... Scales, obviously. |
#8
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#9
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I am on the verge of either:
1. getting a longer metal chassis 2. getting a dimec chassis 3. getting out the dremel and making the car saddle pack (side by side) Have ither of you tried the Dimec chassis with and without the saddle pack set up. I am convinced that it is a weight distribution that gives the DEX210 that mid corner twitch. does the saddle pack layout resolve that issue, or is it a longer wheelbase? looking at the Yokomo, c.1, and RBs they all have saddle pack laoyouts, and they all appear to have much better poise so to speak in that part of the track. |
#10
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What type of track are you running on? And what are you trying to achive?
Mine is on astro and planted.. Im loving it. Try putting the shocks on the rear of the arm... that did a LOT for corner speed etc. |
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