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#1
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Hi to everyone !!
This is my first message on this forum, so, as an introduction, I could tell I'm a french guy who currently lives in Czech Republic. I post my message here because I found on Oople a subcategory called 'I made this' and that's fits perfectly to me. Here is a shot of my new car !! This is my first off-road try and I'm pretty proud of the result ![]() ![]() I made the bodyshell, all carbone, aluminium and PVC parts. Nearly all mechanical parts come from my vintage Lazer ZX. It tooks me about 5 months to do it, from the first drawing to this picture. I'll post some more pictures soon !! PS I'm french.. so I apologize for my english ![]() |
#2
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It looks good! Looks quite beefy as well with those aluminium bits at the front.
I'd really like to see some shots without the body. Did you make all the parts yourself? I'm working on a car design myself at the moment, but don't have any machinery to make parts, just wondering how you did it ![]() |
#3
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Hi & Welcome to Oople!
![]() I'd like to see some photo's with the bodyshell off too. It looks like you made your own front steering arms - is that true? How did you make them? Good work! |
#4
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To be honest, I don't have any "heavy" machinery to manufacture alloy. I bought a Dremel with a little drill stand and that's it ! ![]() I've made all parts with my dremel. That's why I've choosen some easy 2D parts. When I say 2D, I mean, there is no volume on it. I've got an 6mm aluminium sheet and at, the end, I've got a shape with a 6mm thickness. Except for the part I took pictures below.. it consists of removing a specific area with small thickness each time (about 0,2mm) and at the end, you can obtain a little bit more complex part. I hope I was clear ![]() ![]() |
#5
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#6
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I took some parts from my old Kyosho Lazer ZX.. and the front and rear steering arms are from my Lazer. I made a few years ago a DTM car with some home made arms but it was too weak so I decide to take the strongest one ![]() Here is the photo without the bodyshell ![]() |
#7
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Neat,it looks strong enough and should be quick
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#8
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That's a great effort, especially considering your lack of tools. I'm interested in the rear driveshafts, do you notice any strange behaviour with the shafts sweeping forward?
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#9
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good dremel skills! - we have the new dremel king!
though I am unsure of how it would perform, I am very impressed with its profesional looking finish - well done! |
#10
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I have a similar setup, a Dremel with a drill stand. The drill stands clamp bit is made of plastic though and quite flexible so I mainly use it for pre drilling holes in wood. Even that is hard to do accurately... The whole motor plate/diff mount is one piece? Awesome! Like the others said, nice finish. Did you already drive it? How does it go? |
#11
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Yep, you're right.. my first objective was to make it strong !! Unfortunately, I have no track near where I live to test it ! Maybe at the end of the month during a local competition. Hope it will be ok
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![]() Concerning performance, it's not so important for me !! I did that for fun.. and honesty, I'm like a rookie in RC !! so.. ![]() |
#12
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Usually, when it's not easy to do it accurately, it means you don't have the appropriate tool !! I will post during the weekend a picture to show what tools I've used and for which purpose !! I'm pretty sure you'll be surprised to see what tools can be used for !!
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#13
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I wanted to test my car before bringing it to a race.. and after my first try (1 minute), I heard that kind of sound which informs you that you should immediately stop the car. I removed the body shell and.. result = one spur gear dead ! well, maybe I didn't screw enough tightly the motor on the motor plate
![]() I tried with an other spur gear and I made sure the screws were correcty tighten ! but.. it was not enough !! The same sound.. but I noticed at this moment the real problem ! The motor plate was not enough strong .. it bent ![]() See below ![]() ![]() |
#14
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Hard luck...looks like a lot of work to make a stronger one...at least you won't be bored!
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__________________
X-5^2 :: CR2 :: XXX-T MF |
#15
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