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Hi Everyone,
I used to race Mardave Mini Stox in the late 80's/Early 90's, the ones with the big red bumpers and three speed manual speed controllers. Now my son is of a similar age to me when I started, I am considering us both joining a local supastox club. I see that things have moved on considerably since then and have a quick question. The Schumacher K153 package looks like good value and a simple way to start racing again (bear in mind I will buy two kits) but I see that the chassis supplied in the race set is the K151 @ 59.99 vs the BRCA limit of 99 for the K154/K157. Do you think there are some immediate problems in going the K153 package route? Would I soon be looking to change servos, receivers, chassis etc etc? Looking forward to getting involved again, and thanks for the advice! Cheers |
#2
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Personaly i would get an SSGT S1kit with a diff and get your own electrics to go with it.
The K153 package you refer to use's the older supastox chassis, so its limited in its future as it has already been superceded by the SSGT. That's not to say it is a bad chassis its not ! just long in the tooth. The S1 kit gives you a diff as opposed to the carbon kit that doesn't, so you will be able to race from build. Though be warned there are a few upgrades to get it competative but your a long way from leading the A finals. The kit is great, nigh on indistructable, and you will love the GT12 series, simple and friendly (or at least till your on the rostrum racing... ![]() There is a great thread on here that well worth a read http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165755 Hope this helps in someway, Shiny.
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#3
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As far as electrics are concerned go and have a chat to your local model shop they may be able to do you a good deal on all the things you will need or you can pick up some good electrics from hobbyking.
The turnigy trackstar Gen2 1cell speedo is great for the money and designed to use in 12th racing approx £35, you can get the 13.5t trackstar motor for £21, 1 cell batteries Turnigy A-spec 6000mah from £17 (ultimates are better at £19) you will need at least 2 lipos each, Charger turnigy B6 pro £15 you will need 2, power supply for your chargers hobbyking 350W 25Amp £30. Then all you need is a your radio gear of choice weither it be Stick or steering wheel. These can be bought quite cheap, dont buy basic though, make sure it has end point adjustment and expo adjustment. And no im not on comision from hobbyking just a good place to get reasonable electrics to get you going to the point where you can race to a good competative standard at club level. When buying from Hobbyking make sure that you are buying from preferably the UK warehouse, if not the european warehouse (postage is higher from euro warehouse but you wont get import duty) NEVER USE THERE INTERNATIONAL WAREHOUSE!!!!! The only thing i would change in the above list to improve things would be the motor, i'd swap it for a thunder power 13.5t motor, but with a £60 price tag which is the cheapest of the good motors. But if your starting out you don't want lots of speed, you want to learn to be consistent. Then the speed will come!
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Last edited by shinytopman; 18-07-2015 at 03:04 PM. |
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Thanks very much, great information and advice. Much appreciated!
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#5
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The K153 kit isn't that bad a deal. It provides all the ancillary kit you need (charger, charging sack, radio, etc.) and gives you a great start in GT12. You will need both cars to have differentials fitted as the solid axle will make driving the car frustrating.
It's worth going to your local model shop, or finding one on line you can call (AMC - Action Model Centre - for example) to try and do a deal on a Superstox GT12 S1 car (it comes with the diff), radio, servo, body, charger, charging sack, etc. You can then get the electrics mail order from Hobbyking (see STM's post above) as those prices you won't find in a shop. Be aware that the servo needs to be a Core one as the usual Futaba, etc. stuff doesn't fit. More of your money will go on tools, tyres and bodies, a few pinions and other pit-related stuff to get set up. Perhaps you could price up a complete car in a few different ways and then come back here with your list. We can let you know about the stuff you have selected and provide more help if needed. Best of luck - as STM says this is one of the best classes of RC racing ever invented! HTH ![]() |
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#7
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Have a chat with the guys at mb models
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
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Thanks for your advice, I decided to concentrate on my son first. I'll start later in the year.
I used your recommendations, and got all but the recommended charger as it was out of stock (I ordered the one supplied in the K153 kit) and the Transmitter and receiver. Any recommendations for these? Alternatively my son has a Maverick Strada buggy and I am thinking about taking the radio gear from that on a temporary basis. My son would prefer the wheel type, and as I understand it, it needs end point and expo adjustment. Last edited by draperst; 20-07-2015 at 07:24 PM. Reason: more info, english |
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#10
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I dont suppose it has model memory feature, so it can be bound to more than one car? If it has then potentially you could get a compatible receiver and use that in the gt12 whilst maintaining the maverick as a running model to. But as i say im not familiar with the radio gear.
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#11
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Thanks again, I have started to order some bits now, and they have started to arrive.
#K154 - Schumacher SupaStox GT 1/12th GT12 Circuit Car (S1/Diff) #G906 - SupaStox GT12 Body - Type L G906 1 Core RC - 4012 - Servo 4Kg .12 Sec CR493 TrackStar D-Spec TS4G 2.4GHz 4-Channel Radio System Turnigy B6 PRO 50W 6A Balance Charger (Red) HobbyKing 350w 25A Power Supply TrackStar GenII One Cell 120A 1/12th Scale Sensored Brushless ESC Turnigy TrackStar 13.5T Sensored Brushless Motor 3040KV 2x Turnigy nano-tech A-SPEC 6000mah 1S 65~130C Hardcase Lipo Pack Lipo Bag 30g Weight Lexan Scissors I have realised that I also need a sensor cable, any suggestions for length? Thanks! |
#12
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Most good Speedos and motors inclue a sensor cable, personally I would have gone for the ascari or type f body
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#13
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Thanks. Kit arrived today so I can measure up for a sensor cable now. As my son is 12 and likes Lamboghinis I'm sure he will be happy.
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#14
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Couple of things I'd add...
Large bucket of patience including the "think twice, do once" handle The small packet of common sense usually missing from most model shop shelves And when in doubt, RTFM - Read the Flipping Manual!! (Or, come back here and let us help you out!) HTH ![]() |
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Well this is interesting started the build today, anyone else experienced missing or incorrect parts?
So far, Bottom "cup" for a front spring is missing I have three front wheels and one rear (only one wheel has a drive dog) One axle spacer missing The hobby shop is on the case, although they do not know about the wheel problem yet as I have just discovered it. Do you think I should contact Schumacher directly aswell? Not sure I will be buying another one at this rate! On another note, my speed controller Trackstar Gen II has what looks like capacitors in the box (16v) , which are not shown in the instructions. Anyone else have one and know if I need to use them? It is a dedicated one cell ESC, if I need to use them do I solder them to the +VE -VE terminals along with the lipo wires? Not sure where they will go otherwise. First race next Friday at Sidcup, so I am hoping I can get all these things resolved asap... Thanks! Last edited by draperst; 24-07-2015 at 08:19 PM. |
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Sounds like you got a kit put together on a Friday afternoon.
Get on to Schumacher direct. They will sort it out without any fuss. Yes the capacitors need soldering to the + and - on the esc. |
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I had similar issues with my SSGT kit but a quick email to Schumacher's and they soon sorted it out.
One other problem that you may encounter is out of true tyres, this will not be a problem if you are skimming them down to a more handling friendly size but if you are not then be aware that handling may be affected depending on how out of true they are, my fronts were 1mm eccentric, the rears were just slightly out! They did send me a replacement front set, they were 0.5mm out but as I was going to true them down to a starting size of 46mm for the rears and 44.5mm for the fronts this became academic! Some drivers start off even smaller and with less front to rear stagger, by the way! |
#18
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Thanks. Will need to learn more about truing tyres.
Quick question. Any tips on soldering motor and esc wires. I've done it but it looks a bit messy, and took a lot of effort before I could get a solid connection. Body shell painted. Pick to follow. Thanks for all you help so far! |
#19
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My son is a big fan of Massa, Williams and F1, so asked for a Martini Livery
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Looking good........
![]() Did you make it to Sidcup on Fri? If you live in the SE as i pressume you do seeing as your racing at sidcup. Have you thought about racing at Maritime Racing at Chatham Dockyard (Racing Thur Eve . Practice starts from 5-5.30 ish)? Great club, Great track!
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