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#1
11-01-2009
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help with step 2A lol
not got very far!!!
I'm trying to do step 2a and the white plastic rings that push onto the gear don't want to fit in the orientation shown in the diagram? It will fit with stepped edge bit on the inside? Do I need to dremel out the white ring a bit, just try and force it or what? There is also a molding tab on the edge of the white plastic rings. Do they need removing? thanks! bit scared of forcing something and breaking it! 
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#3
11-01-2009
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The instructions are correct but they are a very tight fit - once fitted they 'click' loudly into place.
Some are tighter than others so try swapping different flanges onto different pulleys. I managed with a steady hand and very careful pressure with some long nose pliers. Any flashing should be gently trimmed but you don't need to dremel. When fitted - take care oof the pulley orientation when you fit them onto the layshafts. There is a shoulder on one side that creates an offset. Fit it the wrong way round and the pulley will bind slightly with the transmission housings and the whole thing is tight to turn over. Get it right and it's smooth - just take care (you'll get what I mean when you get to it) Cheers
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#5
11-01-2009
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Next issue... A load of the m3 washers they've sent me are badly manufactured and have a squared of edge on one side rather than being fully circular. Do you reckon its safe to use them?
So annoying when you are all sat down to build something, the shops are shut and you have duff parts.
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#6
11-01-2009
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I had one badly made M3 washer, it had a flat on the circumference - I still used it. If you are unsure of anything, still build it but then replace the washer when you get replacements.
As for the white rings on gears, they are very tight. Hold them under hot water from the tap to soften them, then put them in position - if too tight to get the final click, turn over and press down on a hard work surface. This is what I did when my thumb started bleeding. Ive since built another car doing this, and no injuries on the second kit 
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#8
11-01-2009
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Ok next problem lol.
In Step 11a there is this big stack of washers, ball bearing & disk springs. Is one of the washers really a different size? It says small washer & large washer and they honestly look identical!!! Even in their diagram... What will happen if they are wrong? Also, it says apply silicone in Step 13, but thoughtfully they didn't include any. Presumably it's silicone diff oil I need, but what grade?
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#9
11-01-2009
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Bit late now but I put the white plastic rings in some boiling water for a few seconds.
G
__________________
Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing 
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#10
11-01-2009
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Quote:
 pm Northy on this forum or check out www.nortechracing.co.uk for a good selection of fasteners etc. He's got a cool range of different coloured countersunk washers if purple isn't your fave colour and his whitey shock O-rings are frictionless. You may wish to stock up on the M3 cap head screws that hold the wishbone blocks into the transmission housings as these can bend in a heavy impact.
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#11
11-01-2009
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Quote:
Yes they are slightly different and it does matter. There should be some clear silicone grease in the kit in a little plastic bag? You need grease not oil. G
__________________
Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing
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#12
11-01-2009
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Ok so when it says large do they mean diameter?
Found the grease, it was around the balls. Anyway got 1 diff assembled and its quite stiff. Have I overtightened it? When I compare the diff on my old optima pro its very light. Also if I've got the big/little the wrong way round any idea what the symptom would be? Thanks guys, and Northy do you do a complete screw kit?
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#13
11-01-2009
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I couldn't see ANY differnece on those washers either. I looked at them for a good 10 minutes and measured them with a caliper and couldn't tell the difference.
And yes, these plate type diffs are quite stiff compared to a geared diff. I slackened mine off a bit more than the manual said. Don't forget to back them off!! I missed that stage first time round, and they were bloody tight.
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#14
11-01-2009
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Quote:
Don't do a complete screw kit yet, but if I can help let me know. G
__________________
Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing
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#15
11-01-2009
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Thanks again guys. This feedback is invaluable. Hopefully your help means it won't be a repeat of when I built my optima pro aged 11 and had to take it into the shop to be remediated
 Think I got 1 diff definitely right, although its hard to even see the bevelled edge on the ball race. Other one feels the same, so not going to let it prey on my mind too much. Digital calliper on the shopping list now though, not to mention some of those spangly pliers for doing C rings. If I get them at least I can open the diffs again and double check. Northy do you sell them mate?
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#16
11-01-2009
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We are here to help
 No, sorry, I need a pair myself  G
__________________
Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing
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#17
12-01-2009
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Next question. Just done step 26 which is part of the steering linkage, and instructions say the bar should have an 8mm gap between the bar with the ball ends plastic fittings. I've done that but when I clip it all together, the purple steering are thingies are towing in towards each other rather than parallel when looking down on them. Is 8mm the right choice or should I be trying to get them straight. They are straight in the instructions diagram... I reckon it would need another 3mm or so...
The only thing with going with the stated 8mm is that it would make the inner wheel turn a slightly tighter circle in a corner which is desireable right? Although unloaded wheel in a corner a bit irrelevant. Anyway appreciate if anyone knows the correct answer?
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#18
12-01-2009
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8MM from the inside of the rod ends, or 8MM of rod end thats showing. I did mine with 8MM, and the bell crank is all straight. So im guessing you did that wrong. I think you just miss measured the links, IDK how else you would be that off.
Maybe a pic? Or someone else might know
__________________
Blacked Out Mi4 Schumacher/Speed Passion/Black Army Racing/Owen RaCing Anodizing/NNFaN Paints/Scooter Motorworks
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#19
12-01-2009
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Quote:
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#20
12-01-2009
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Cass is right, at 8mm the bellcranks point inwards. I ran mine like this and it was very "safe" with understeer, but not fast. I lengthened the turnbuckle until the bellcranks are parallel and the car turns in sharpy - is still safe but can be driven hard as it will turn when asked.
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Schumacher
Linear Mode
