New Schumacher Mi4

jeroen206 · #1 02-04-2009

http://www.racing-cars.com/main.asp?sitepages=mi4

rcmadd · #2 02-04-2009

i will have to go have a look

the clamp system for motor looks interesting

Belsten · #3 02-04-2009

motor clamp looks the same as the cat sx I believe

MattW · #4 02-04-2009

It isn't the same part as such, but clearly it is basically the same concept.

lochness42 · #5 14-06-2009

Experience?

rcmadd · #6 15-06-2009

??????????

lochness42 · #7 15-06-2009

I meant, does anyone have building and driving experience yet?
Comparison with different cars? Thank you.

Matt_N · #8 15-06-2009

A guy at my local club has one of these and they do look an impressive bit of kit. I will ask him how it is compared to other cars he's ran this Friday.

Matt

rcmadd · #9 15-06-2009

a chap races one at the same club as me as well as his mi3 he rates it better than the mi3.5 it looks good and it goes very well from the box

Lowie · #10 24-06-2009

obviously, oOple is mostly an offroad-site/forum ... but does anyone know a good site and/or forum to find info, setupsheets, ... about the Mi4?

Also, If I buy one, what spare parts should I buy?

lochness42 · #11 25-06-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lowie

obviously, oOple is mostly an offroad-site/forum ... but does anyone know a good site and/or forum to find info, setupsheets, ... about the Mi4?

Also, If I buy one, what spare parts should I buy?

I belive that only setups that are currently available are those on racing-cars.com site, but you can ask for some at rctech.

To spares - I don't know really, but driveshafts blades are definitely must have spare part.
Different parts that I noticed on Grainger car are - grey belts. Tip that I got from Adam Bailey (Schumacher USA) - get grey blades for driveshafst - they last longer.
I also belive that common spares like front arms, steering yoke, front and rear hub carriers and some ballbearings worth to have.

Personally I didn't run my MI4 yet - it's raining here for whole week I've got it built.

I'm waiting for sun to do some track testing.

DAVIDZX5 · #12 27-06-2009

I have an MI4 i had it about 3 weeks ago, It was a pleasure to build, everything just slots in place nice and easy.

I Had a go down the club and i was fast and so easy to drive.

Lowie · #13 27-06-2009

I did not find an item-number for those grey blades, or the grey belts.
Does someone know what the difference is and what numbers these are/have?
thx

lochness42 · #14 27-06-2009

Grey blades are supposed to be slightly softer and does not break that easily as black which are harder - that's info that I got from Schumacher forum.
To belts - they are probably softer as well and cause less drag.
To parts numbers:
Grey Blades from SST: U1918
Grey front Belt from MI2EC: U3012
Grey rear Belt from MI2EC: U3013

I personally have MI4 built for a week and tested it only yesterday because of bad weather. Car ran nicely, but I found it bit too oversteering (track lacks good grip, was dusty and dirty after few days of raining however my 009 had much better grip with 6.5 motor), however it was nice to control in powerslide. I was racing against my friend that we are equal in regular races and I was still able to beat him.
Blades doesn't seem to be worn after about 10 packs with 10.5 motor.

Lowie · #15 27-06-2009

i usually run in stock races (running 27T-motors) and I like driving with a One-way.
If I understood the manual ok, the Mi4 is equipped with a diff in the back and a spool in the front.
Is this diff made of plastic or is it an metal (Alu?) one?
Also is there a One-way available as option?

[edit] found the One-way:
U3518 One Way; Complete Assembly - Mi4

MattW · #16 27-06-2009

The diffs are alloy - and as you correctly said spool up front.

I tried some black blades in the rear months ago, and they seemed fine. Although i know a few of the others haven't been quite so sure for the front, i haven't tried them in the front. I would just use your blacks ones and see how they go. If they are ok, then leave them!

We run grey belts all the time, even with 5 cell mod. They do wear a little more, and you can break the odd one with mod, but i would (and do) still run them).

As for spares, same as any other car really, usual suspects!

Lowie · #17 28-06-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattW

...and you can break the odd one with mod, ...

sorry, my English isn't that good. Could you explain what you mean by this? Do you have to modify the car somehow? .. And then by doing so, the belts could break?

Quote:

As for spares, same as any other car really, usual suspects!

I noticed there are some parts in different types of material:

Rear hub in alloy,
front hubs in hard plastic, medium and flex plastic
A-Arms in plastic or in a harder Graphite plastic
...

Could you give me your opinion on these?

Someone with a lot of experience told me I'd better stick with the medium plastic ones.
Is this true and how about the alloy rear hubs? DO'nt these add weight where i might better be avoided?
thx!

Lowie · #18 28-06-2009

and yet another question.

I noticed in the manual 48db spurs and 64db-ones.
Is there a big difference between these two types in terms of driving caracteristics ... or ... aks in a different way: why use 64db?
and does it give noticable advantages when running these spurs and pinions?

I still have a range of Tamiya 0.4 pinions in my closet. COuld I use these with the Schumacher 64-spurs? They are very alike but not exactly the same.
If I coudl that would mean I won't have to buy a while set of new pinions.

lochness42 · #19 28-06-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lowie

sorry, my English isn't that good. Could you explain what you mean by this? Do you have to modify the car somehow? .. And then by doing so, the belts could break?

MOD = MODified

just strong motor

Quote:

I noticed there are some parts in different types of material:

Rear hub in alloy,
front hubs in hard plastic, medium and flex plastic
A-Arms in plastic or in a harder Graphite plastic
...

Could you give me your opinion on these?

Someone with a lot of experience told me I'd better stick with the medium plastic ones.
Is this true and how about the alloy rear hubs? DO'nt these add weight where i might better be avoided?
thx!

Alloy hubs, arms etc. are things to avoid in my opinion. They can bend, if not, then forces goes to other parts that breaks and mostly harder to change and more expensive.
From what I've found on schumacher forum - use medium flex or maybe ultra flex, parts lasts longer then - in crash they just flex not break.

lochness42 · #20 28-06-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lowie

and yet another question.

I noticed in the manual 48db spurs and 64db-ones.
Is there a big difference between these two types in terms of driving caracteristics ... or ... aks in a different way: why use 64db?
and does it give noticable advantages when running these spurs and pinions?

when you use 64dp, you can do fine gearing tuning. also Gears are supposed to wear less - more teeth that takes forces. I also heard that 64dp has better acceleration - but I can't prove that - I'm still using 48dp because of buggy and that I don't have money to buy whole set of new pinions. One downside of 64dp can be outdoors - debris etc. from asphalt can more easily damage spur because of smaller teeth.

Quote:

I still have a range of Tamiya 0.4 pinions in my closet. COuld I use these with the Schumacher 64-spurs? They are very alike but not exactly the same.
If I coudl that would mean I won't have to buy a while set of new pinions.

I would not try that. Allways use dedicated pinions with spurs. Just imagine how many rpm they got. It simply can't work and you'll have much wear and drag in your drivetrain.