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#1
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Have bought a pack of the TRF serrated wheel nuts to stop the wheel falling off issue you get on the 501/511 as standard, but now they are here I can see they are not locking nuts, just standard. Am I missing something?? Tamiya advertise them as wheel nuts but surely they will fall off if they are not locking nuts?
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#2
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there serrated on the edge that fit on the wheel, that locks to the rims there should be no nylock on them thats right,
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#3
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Wow, cool, I always assumed they would have both the nylock and serrated edge, think(?) I had some Schumachers that had both, but I'll give these a whirl then!!
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#4
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no, just the serration.
What I do, is pop the wheel on, then add a drop of threadlock to the axle, then fit the nut, since doing that, never been an issue.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#5
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I do the same as DCM, I used to suffer a bit with the wheel loosening but a dab of threadlock and i've never had the issue again.
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#6
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Dave whats the part number and where from ? been looking for these for a while. We use them on our 416 WE`s at the club - they have never come loose. ![]() |
#7
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you can also get plain (not anodised) serrated nuts, on eBay, about 20 nuts for the price of 4.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#8
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Ive been using the serrated nuts on all my metric cars. I use the Core RC ones, no threadlock needed, just tighten those bad boys and race.
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Mark Dyson Clown |
#9
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http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/cars/501x/hbwheelnuts/
I imagine the Tamiya ones are somewhat like the Hot Bodies ones above? Anyone who tells you they will never come off isn't telling the whole story - but as long as the wheels are in good condition and mounted properly (and are GOOD wheels to begin with) then the serrated nuts are ace. Strangely its only Tamiya that would have a problem with serrated nuts if you're using the old 501X wheels with the loose front hex. It could spin off one of these serrated nuts quicker than you could blink. New style front wheels are fine tho.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. ![]() |
#11
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Ah cheers Carl they are the fellas
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#12
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Yep they look identical to those Jim - Ive certainly never had any come loose on my TC ![]() |
#13
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Nearly all my wheels are the Tamiya yellow ones, not sure if that's old style or new!
Will try them and see, these are the trf nuts rather than third party ones, exactly the same but way more expensive!! Like the Tamiya bling turnbuckles!! Talking of which, anyone know if they do the blingy blue turnbuckles any longer than 45mm? |
#14
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Am using these on my 511, no threadlock, no problem so far.
Serrated flanged nuts, Tamiya part number (black): 84083 @ DaveG28: No, 3x45mm is the longest blue one they make... |
#15
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The problem is with the right front wheel, mainly when using a one way on high grip surfaces. The torque can flex the hex in the wheel - which slightly undoes the nut (the nut is still tight against the wheel). So in turn the wheel can move some more, so the nut moves some more, so the wheel moves some more...... ETC!
![]() Only use them with good wheels, no slightly mashed up hexes. Just my experience with them - I have no fear using them on the Durango now because I don't have a one way for that car.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. ![]() |
#16
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part number 42143 for the blue ones from the 416WE
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#17
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just make sure you don't overtighten them when you put them on, and they'll be fine
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#18
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Yes found that out last night, got my setup station totally jammed on with them!!
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