12th scale

[losixxx]

right i know nothing about 12th scale but a mate's interested in racing 12th at plymouth over the winter so whats the best chassis to get, do they use standard size servo's?

any other help would be great

thanks

[_sleigh_]

I too know next to nothing about 12th, but I think they use a smaller servo than we use in 10th.

[Alan1467]

The best are any of these
Futaba 9602 or 9650 servo - Sanwa 141HR or the small KO one that I can't rember the number of

Alan

[Arn0]

I guess I could provide some information as I enter the class and search for details.

Regarding servo, you need a mini fast one, like those mentionned and some more like Ko 949 and others (list later)

Regarding cars, there is two family; the T-bar car and the link car.

T-bar cars:
AE RC12L4
CRC T-Fource
Supermerchant Rev4.5
Corally SP12X

Link cars:
CRC GenerationX

This a 3rd family, a mix between t-bar and link cars from BMI

Those are the latest cars for each manufacturer.

I will give you details about tires, body and maybe tips I recorded, but right now, don't get them right away, sorry.

You can also have a look on rctech, there is a large thread regarding 1:12 scale cars

[losixxx]

thanks

[Arn0]

Ok here are some informations collected from various sources! I'll probably write things twice with my previous post, sorry about that!

Cars:

AE RC12L4 - T-bar car
CRC T-Fource - T-bar car
Supermerchant Rev4.5 - T-bar car
Corally SP12X - T-bar car
Trinity Black Widow - T-bar car
CEFX C12 - T-bar car
HB Cyclone 12 - T-bar car
CRC GenerationX - link car
BMI DB12R - mix between T-bar & link car

There are some converstion kit such as Astuchi Hara Hammer, Hyperform, V-dezign Carpet Ripper '07

The link cars seems to work better on carpet, T-bar cars on asphalt

Servo:

KO 2123
KO 949
Sanwa 141HR (maybe also name Airtonics 94141Z)
Airtonics 94145Z
Hitec 225 MG
HS 81 MG
Futaba 9602
Futaba 9650

Bodyshell - Information picked from rctech

Parma Speed 8* - Best for stock and 19 turn, low drag and medium downforce, very stable
Parma Speed 8 HD* - Best for mod, high downforce and medium drag, very stable and planted
Protoform Speed 12* - Best for mod, medium stability, high downforce and a little less drag than Speed 8 HD
Protoform Speed 12b* - Best for stock and 19 turn, Medium stability, good downforce and very low drag.
*Light weight version uses thinner lexan.

There is also the CEFX Courage and sure some others

Tires:

Corally - harder to softer compound
Vert
Silver
Silver star
Gold
Gold star

TRC (from Trinity)


GRP

Parma Advice: Typical Starting Combos (the same for Jaco Tires)

Asphalt - Purple Fronts/Pink Rears
Carpet - Purple Fronts/Grey Rears

Tire combo for Corally cars

Indoor
Front: silver .
Rear gold, silver if grip increase

Information from rc tech (I need to read it!)

Reactive caster - This gives your car less caster as it rolls into a corner. This allows you to set you car with some static caster (with the car level side to side) for straight line stability but as the chassis rolls into a corner the caster is reduced making the car turn in more quickly and have more mid corner steering. As the car exists the corner the chassis returns to level and the caster comes back for stability.

99.99% of the time the 10* reactive blocks are best. If you look in the pit boxes of guys like Barry Baker, Mike Blackstock and Josh Cyrul they usually only have 10* blocks. Mike Blackstock told me once that if you think you need a 5* block you have a problem elsewhere in your car.

The 5* block is a compromise. You will need to run less static caster to keep your corner entry turn in but this will cause you to lose some straight line stability. If you want to get rid of a violent turn in there are other settings to look at in a 1/12th car like pod droop, center shock angle, center shock oil and center shock spring.

0* blocks are for oval racers...I throw mine away with the bag and header card.

Bump Toe (in or out) - ...is not a good thing. Guys talk about this in regards to angled or laid down servos....but either way you need to set up your steering links to eliminate bump toe.

The reactive caster front end most of us use is designed to run with an angled servo. This allows you to run standard ball studs and you will have not bump toe. With this setting your car will have Ackermann. This means the inside wheel will trun inot the corner a couple degrees more than the outside wheel. This will give you more low speed steering. This is how most people run their servos outdoors.

With a laid down servo you will need to use longer ball studs on the steering arms of your spindles to adjust the steering link geometry to eliminate the bump toe. With a laid down servo you will have little to no Ackermann at all. This is better on high traction surfaces (like Carpet) where you already have a lot of steering. No Ackermann on a high traction surfaces gives more corner speed since the inside front wheel will be less likely to turn in past its optimum slip angle and cause drag.

That said Mod drivers run angled servos on carpet to get more steering...becuase you ALWAYS need more steering in Mod...lol!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...173251&page=16

Mark Payne's 1/12th Scale RC Notes - He used to race a CRC Carpet Knife V3.2R but shift for a Corally SP12X recently

RCTech Thread about 12th - you need to go throw as there is a lot of pages

Richard Chang 1/12th Setup Tips Cheat Sheet

If any of those links is inappropriate, just remove it!!

Guess that all I can provide! As said previously, I'm about to enter the class and those information were collected over the past months!

You guys got some 1:12 top drivers so they probably give advice

One I read:

Do yourself a HUGE favor and DON'T jump straight into Mod unless that is all that is run at your club.

Spend some time learning to set up and drive the car. You will get nothing but frustration, like many before you, and pack it in while proclaiming "1/12 SUCKS!!".

If your club races a Stock class, enter it. If you want to be a leg-up on everyone else start out with a Tamiya silver can motor. This frees the car up UNBELIEVEABLY and you can learn to drive it, maintaining speed as you concentrate on hitting your lines. Our experience with a silver can is it is almost EXACTLY a lap down in a stock race with decent drivers on both cars, but someone starting out in 1/12 will actually be faster with the silver can than with a stock motor. I've seen ONE guy ever that took to 1/12 with a stock motor and was fairly competitive from the get go.

What you will find is that unlike TC these cars are VERY responsive to set-up changes, either those made intentionally on your bench or those made accidentally hitting the boards.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...09#post3629309

Hope that can help!

[nobby]

A BIT LATE BUT IT MAY HELP.
THE BEST CAR IS AN ASSOCIATED RC12L4 (THERE BULLIT PROOF)
TYRES PARMA OR GRP PURPLE FRONTS GRAY REARS THATS IT.
SERVO KO949

AS FOR MOTORS DON'T CHUCK A BRUSHLESS IN.
START OFF WITH A 19 TURN AND RACE IT FOR AT LEAST A MONTH TO GET USED TO 12TH.

BODYSHELLS ALL OF THE PAMRA SPEED SHELLS ARE BAND IN THE UK.
USE A PARMA ZYTEK OPEN COCKPIT SHELL.

HOPE THIS HELPS.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by nobby

BODYSHELLS ALL OF THE PAMRA SPEED SHELLS ARE BAND IN THE UK.
USE A PARMA ZYTEK OPEN COCKPIT SHELL.

Think he mean's not eligable for the UK National series.

You can use Parma Speed Shells @ club meetings, just like batteries that are not on the EB list.

[scotoap]

All good advice, but has anyone seen the new Mardave site and their Caterham 7 I just had to get one; heres the link,

http://www.mardaveracing.com/

Happy viewing

[losidan]

aye, i like the caterham..i think i might get a v12 again after chrimbo but get the worlds edition cos it is a bit of a bargain.