22 kicking out under acceleration

DCM · #1 03-04-2011

Running mine in rear config, locations as in the 22 thread and as you come out of the corner, the rear wants to kick out so you have to stroke the throttle, another running in mid congif was also doing the same.

I was thinking that it may need more rear toe, would I be right, and what difference would the HRC block make over the LRC in the kit?

Gnarly Old Dog · #2 03-04-2011

Ref HRC vs LRC blocks, I find that the HRC block feels more consistent through the entire turn. The LRC feels as if it grips harder to begin with but it will let go more violently.
The HRC block feels a little looser to begin with but after a few laps, the increased consistency tends to mean that the overall lap times are lower.

I watched one of our team drivers make the change from LRC to HRC yesterday on dry astro. The first few laps were a little loose but within 1 battery pack, his lap times had come down by over 1s average.

It's been debated a lot and I can't comment on the theory but in terms of feel, the HRC block is nicer and more consistent.

Rear toe would help lock it in under accel but the compromise is often in the longer turns where less toe will allow more corner speed.

I'm assuming that you're hitting the throttle when you say that it kicks out? Possibly move the rear hub link in to the B position to generate more camber gain and ensure that you're running the taper wedge under the front and the front link is long.

I'll be honest that I always tend to stroke the throttle and allow the speed to build rather than trying to fight wheelspin but then again, I have been told that I drive like Miss Daisy

DCM · #3 03-04-2011

yes, got the wedge in on the front. It is kicking out under acceleration, even dropping down from a 7.5 to a 10.5 it was still there.

But do I go up 0.5deg and HRC or just go to the HRC 4.0?

Nick · #4 03-04-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

yes, got the wedge in on the front. It is kicking out under acceleration, even dropping down from a 7.5 to a 10.5 it was still there.

But do I go up 0.5deg and HRC or just go to the HRC 4.0?

I would say go to 4.0 min maybe even 4.5 as the car has loads of steering! I ran mine on a 4.0 HRC today and thought it was planted! It has to be the best 2wd I have driven ever ! Still needs a tweak here and there but found the car so easy to drive!

spud31 · #5 04-04-2011

at moto arena, us minions lol ( not mr bloomfield) found moving the rear hubs forward let the gas be used earlier out of a corner and i ran 4 HRC with 3deg anti squat.
in the end i ran staggers on the front as did darren an the car still has awersome steering.
Only thing i have noticed is on high grip low speed turns the car seems to lift the inside rear wheel a bit ala mk2 golf. i extended my rear shock length to 31mm length body to shock end an it seemed better.

DCM · #6 04-04-2011

Seems HRC is that way to go then, with the HRC shim kit to.

spud31 · #7 04-04-2011

yup you need the shim kit as the block much higher, are you running the weight under the lipo too dcm?

DCM · #8 04-04-2011

Not currently, as my LiPo is pretty heavy as it is, I got a little weight in the space behind the servo though

Gnarly Old Dog · #9 04-04-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

Not currently, as my LiPo is pretty heavy as it is, I got a little weight in the space behind the servo though

I'd start with the 4.5 HRC then and possibly drop the anti squat to 2 or maybe even 1 to help promote weight shift over the rear on acceleration.

DCM · #10 04-04-2011

Cheers, do like the car to be honest, looks odd on the track, but handled really well.

brokkenpiloot · #11 04-04-2011

How much higer is the HRC antisquat block than the standard kit one?
Can i achieve the same result by adding shims under the standard block?

Having trouble finding a reseller in holland that has these on stock.

crewie · #12 04-04-2011

I think im right in saying putting a washer under the block wouldn't work. I'm sure you would have to raise the whole gearbox to do this. There are different height inserts that come with the blocks to keep everything else where it should be.

spud31 · #13 04-04-2011

the hrc block is approx 2 to 3mm higher in pivot point thats why u need the hrc anti squat shims too

sparrow.2 · #14 04-04-2011

I am having similar problems with mine in rear motor configuration. What can I try without buying the HRC blocks?

Which direction should I be changing things on the rear camber link to get it to be a little smoother or at least predictable.

Got a little irate at the car over the weekend and ended up driving like a bit of a plonker and it stood up to it so hats off to being strong. Hat still firmly on regarding the handling though...

Gnarly Old Dog · #15 04-04-2011

In rear motor config, you 'may' get away with shimming the blocks up as the front block won't affect the gearbox height like it would otherwise do in mid config but you may have difficulty in aligning the motor guard properly.

If you really don't want to go HRC, then move the hub link position further inboard to shorten the link. (2B with 2-3 washers on the hub and 1 on the tower would be my current starting advice)

You could also try fitting a couple of washers between the wheel and the hex to widen the rear track. I think the car width is narrow enough to allow you to 'play' with the track to alter the drive characteristics.

Make sure your front link is long and don't run any more than a total of 30 deg caster. Currently I would suggest either running the taper wedge under the front kick up with the standard 10 deg blocks or possibly run the flat shim with the option 5 deg blocks.
Increasing the kick angle theoretically should reduce the weight transfer on the front - which you may find to your liking. Personally, I'm running the taper wedge with the standard blocks.

Hope this helps loosen your hat in terms of your 22's handling characteristics.