Mad Monkey Build

AndyPandyPoos · #1 26-04-2011

Hi.
Hopefully tomorrow there will be a knock on my front door with a new Mad Monkey kit behind it!

I have radio gear, Lipos, motor and esc ready.

Any advice / things to look out for when building?

Thanks
Andy.

DooBeDooBeDo · #2 26-04-2011

I just built two.

Pre-tap all the holes before you put any of the ansmann screws in otherwise the heads will strip. I found that the heads strip just from looking at them too hard. Better still get some decent M3 screws...

You should get a bearing set from somewhere like www.rcbearings.co.uk otherwise you'll have to use the brass bushes supplied in the kit.

I found the front suspension needed a little fettling to free it up, and the front hexes will probably bind when you tighten the wheels up.

Overall though a very enjoyable build and excellent quality (apart from the screws) kit.

AndyPandyPoos · #3 26-04-2011

thanks for info.
I'll look at getting some bearings on order now..

have you used any of the other upgrade parts and noticed an improvement?

DooBeDooBeDo · #4 26-04-2011

I built them for my kids so until they break something no upgrades - but don't tell them that

.

To be honest the car seems extremely rugged. The first thing I'd expect anyone to want to change is the shocks, but so long as you fill them carefully the kit ones work well enough. I expect others have installed proper turn-buckles too. But unless you're heavily in to racing, with just the bearing set the Monkey is great out of the box.

Getpip · #5 26-04-2011

I did a little build report on my Mad Rat if its any use to you..
http://pipskiracing.blogspot.com/201...c-bargain.html

minke · #6 27-04-2011

I own a rat and a monkey. Make sure you have the right bearing kit, monkey needs more than the rat. I find the back end is really solid and needs less upgrading that the rat too. As with the both, a sub 0.10 sec servo does wonders. I added lead under alloy servo mounts and it helps a lot

DCM · #7 27-04-2011

Right, a few tips as I have built two....

Make sure you have a GOOD 2mm allen driver, as otherwise the heads go on the screws.

Diff Spring - Compress with some pliers otherwise you will set your diff, and it will slip right away.

Front shocks - bit of super glue/tyre glue in one hole of the shock piston.

Motor Plate - thread lock the screw holes for the screws that go through the gearbox, don't tighten up these screws, just a gentle nip up or you will strip the thread.

Thats about it for now!

Robbiejuk · #8 27-04-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

Right, a few tips as I have built two....
Diff Spring - Compress with some pliers otherwise you will set your diff, and it will slip right away.

+1 on the diff spring.

I would also recommend putting some black grease on the thrust race as it doesn't tell you to put any on in the instructions and there is none is the kit. Built four of these diffs now and the thrust races are still in one piece

AndyPandyPoos · #9 27-04-2011

no delivery today

good tips though guys. ordered the full bearing set, so i'll see how i get on it with it.

AndyPandyPoos · #10 07-05-2011

I'm having a couple of issues with the build guys. Followed the instructions to the letter as far as I know. Got the the back end in, but when the left side drive shaft is in situ and turnbuckle attached, the whole side will only lift slightly. I get full range of motion on the right side. It looks as though the drive shaft in diff end can only sit in so far and is hitting the nut that adjusts/keeps together the diff. Bit hard without pics I know, I'll try and get some up. This is driving me nuts. The plastic spacer that sits between the spring and nut is half way ish down the diff, but this looks right according to the manual.
Any ideas welcome.

Andy

nosequehacer · #11 07-05-2011

Can you post a photo?

DooBeDooBeDo · #12 07-05-2011

You've got the screw/nut for the diff on the wrong sides. swap it all round and it'll work as it's supposed to. I did the same thing first one I built

AndyPandyPoos · #13 08-05-2011

Yup... Sorted. Screw/nut wrong way around. Works like a charm. Cheers.

AndyPandyPoos · #14 08-05-2011

Does the monkey not come with a cover for the pinion/spur? Or am I just missing it. Looks abit exposed!

4_cell_racer · #15 08-05-2011

Nope no cover.... There wasn't one in my kit either! Suppose the shell protects the pinion/spur!

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyPandyPoos

Does the monkey not come with a cover for the pinion/spur? Or am I just missing it. Looks abit exposed!

Robbiejuk · #16 09-05-2011

Only mid motored car I know that does come with a gear cover is the Losi 22 as the spur gear doesn't fit inside the body. Saying that though they still get sand in them

XxSwainy96xX · #17 19-12-2011

what tap size should i use?

Robbiejuk · #18 19-12-2011

M3 sized Tap I would have thought. I just use a M3 bolt that I had lieing around think it was a schumacher one. As long as its got a decent hex in it then you should be fine.

pro4nut · #19 20-12-2011

I wouldn't use a tap its a bit over the top. Make sure you have a good quality driver tip thats all.

At a push have a go with a cap head screw so you can use a 2.5mm driver and pre tap the holes.

DomSmith · #20 22-12-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by pro4nut

I wouldn't use a tap its a bit over the top. Make sure you have a good quality driver tip thats all.

At a push have a go with a cap head screw so you can use a 2.5mm driver and pre tap the holes.

I second that! I had a nightmare with my X2C screw heads stripping. Standard allen keys aren't accurate enough. they leave 10° movement where as a proper hex drive like Schumacher sell fits perfectly. I ended up using Stainless steel screws throughout to be on the safe side as well.