410 help

[scooter]

Need some help guys, have had the 410r since May and seems like problem after problem. I followed the oople build thread and that made it seem better. The problems are a funny vibration at low rpm that I can't seem to locate. I've changed all the bearings twice and tried rebuilding the diff's a few times with different shimming following the TD tech tips, as well as two diff motors. The second problem is that running 7 min is a challenge without overheating. I run a tekin Rs Pro with a Novak 6.5 geared 19 or 20 pinion and stock spur. Got some advice from tekin but still no real luck. Any help would be appreciated before I give up and get rid of it, Thanks Tom

[Big G]

have you tried adding a fan to the speedo?

is the motor thermalling or the speedo during these runs?

[mattr]

I had the same issue, but using an Exceed Pro/6.5T combo on 21t pinion.

Thermal cut off was usually around 7 minutes, gearing down to a 19 has helped, and shoehorning a fan in on top of the ESC has done the last little bit, i'll probably try with a 20 or 21t next time i'm out and see how that goes. Have also now pushed all the settings to "max" and still got no problems. Also opened out the vents on the shell a bit more extensively!

I can now run all the way to the voltage cut off, then put another battery in, and do the same again.

I haven't got the low speed vibration, well, i do, but its not enough to cause a problem, so i've left it well alone.

[dpackster1980]

Originally Posted by scooter

Need some help guys, have had the 410r since May and seems like problem after problem. I followed the oople build thread and that made it seem better. The problems are a funny vibration at low rpm that I can't seem to locate. I've changed all the bearings twice and tried rebuilding the diff's a few times with different shimming following the TD tech tips, as well as two diff motors. The second problem is that running 7 min is a challenge without overheating. I run a tekin Rs Pro with a Novak 6.5 geared 19 or 20 pinion and stock spur. Got some advice from tekin but still no real luck. Any help would be appreciated before I give up and get rid of it, Thanks Tom

I got rid of my Tekin RS Pro because of overheating. I got a SXX TC Spec from JE Spares. £130 new and never looked back.

Your gearing isn't too far off either. I'd get rid of the Tekin and get a cheap LRP they get no where near thermalling.

[Big G]

I still think the RS is a great speedo and for 90% of the time running fanless isn't a problem. The only time mine has ever thermalled it was a very hot day. I had no holes in my shell and no fan. Otherwise no problem running 7 mins.

fitting a 20/30mm fan shouldn't be an issue just to get a bit of air moving over the FETs. If you need ideas on moving the electrics around there are quite a few different layouts in the other thread. I've moved mine around 3 times since getting the RS in the 410.

[scooter]

The ecs is the thermo isssue, I will try putting a fan in and see what happens. Anyone have any thoughts on the drivetrain vibration?

[Bozzspeed]

the vibration. Do you notice it when you're holding the chassis off the ground and it has full suspension droop? And does it stop when you compress the suspension?

[kartstuffer]

Basic i know but did you run it with your wheels off and see ?

[old-man]

Originally Posted by Bozzspeed

the vibration. Do you notice it when you're holding the chassis off the ground and it has full suspension droop? And does it stop when you compress the suspension?

I noticed the same vibration but it goes away when the rear suspension is compressed or the droop is reduced with the droop screws.

Though nothing seems to be binding at full suspension travel, so not sure where the trouble is. Gave up looking for it and just run it as it is.

[Bozzspeed]

You may have the same issue i had. It maybe a buckled wheel rubbing on a ballends. You may not pick up on it when you're testing the diff action by hand, but when you rev the motor with a buckle wheel attached the wobble is amplified. It took me a few weeks to pick up on this because once I finish cleaning the car, I put on a set of setup wheels and finish setting the car up (new wheels and tires - unused). Hence why I never detected the problem at home as my new wheels are still straight, yet some of my old wheels are a little out of shape.

I use losi wheels on the rear less flex and more material around the pin area, plus the off set is nearly the same (0.5mm narrower in track width). AE wheels will reduce your rear track width by about 2mm and the wheels rub on the ballends even more.

I hope this helps.