|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Could someone let me know what a reasonable starting point would be?
Are you still using associated springs or Tamiya's own? Any random pointers would be welcome |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I am still not 100% happy with my setup but I am pretty close to a base setup.
This was very driveable on higher grip indoor tracks e.g. NERCR regional, I'm still struggling for a bit of steering on the slippy floor at the local club but part of that is my driving! I'll run through it quickly as it is now... Front: Shocks - 501X, 3mm internal spacer Piston - Option 1.3mm Oil - Much-More #500 Spring - DB01 kit Shock mounting position - 3rd hole out top, middle hole bottom Ride height - Bones level Camber link - outer hole inboard, kit outboard Camber - 1 degree negative Drive - One-way diff (always seems faster unless you need a lot of braking and the grip is low) Toe-in - straight ahead Rear Shocks - 501X, 2mm internal spacer Piston - Option 1.4mm Oil - Much-More #300 Spring - DB01 kit Shock mounting position - 3rd hole out top, outer bottom Ride height - Bones level Camber link - kit Camber - 1 degree negative Other notes Slipper and front UJs fitted. 12x1 V2 motor on 18 pinion. EP 4200 cells, Keyence speedo, Futaba 9451 servo Overall the two things that have made the biggest difference have been moving the shocks to the outer hole on the rear arm (unfortunately you can't do that with the kit shocks without losing far too much travel) - this has stopped the car from over-rolling in the corners and made it a lot sharper. Also the one-way seems faster in pretty much every situation although the diff is a lot easier to drive, especially if you need a lot of braking on low grip. Hope this helps a little. |
![]() |
|
|