Mardave Diff

[Chequered Flag Racing]

teach us all how to build the perfect diff

if you think you one

[teamorsum96]

me personally, i would'nt use one, as i think its just one more thing that could go wrong. some may say im lazy or tight but thats way i see it. lol

[rcqmen]

Use quality diff balls.

Silicone diff-lube.

Make the wheelnut on the diff-side slightely conical.

[Wynney]

Sand down the pinion to reduce its width so the wheel but can be done up without altering diff tension. Have had the axles on lathes to achieve the same but of you bend an axle racing you need to start again.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

posted in other threads

Karl says

Originally Posted by Karl Dransfield

All you have to do to get a nice diff is make sure that the spur spins freely on the axle by removing the plastic flashing from the hole in the middle. And make sure that the wheel doesn't bind on the axle. That's it.

and LongRat says

Originally Posted by LongRat

The conical washers allow a degree of modulation to be had between loose and fully locked. The more washers you use, the more turns of the nut you will have in the adjustment range.

[almunro]

re the Longrat quote about conical washers, i was also told that if you use two facing each other (the two outside diameters together) it acts more like a diff spring and gives you that larger range of adjustment turns.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Originally Posted by almunro

re the Longrat quote about conical washers, i was also told that if you use two facing each other (the two outside diameters together) it acts more like a diff spring and gives you that larger range of adjustment turns.

LongRat like this (( or (((( depending on how much axle thread there is

or

almunro like this () or ()() depending on axle threads

[LongRat]

Like this: ()()()(

And you'll get more turns in the modulation range as I was saying in the previous thread.

Like this: ((((((

And you'll get more preload force per degree of nut tightening but barely any more range than with a single spring washer. I would always go with the first method, not the last. I don't like having a super sensitive set up where one degree tighter on the nut is the difference between the diff slipping or being locked solid. That's not easy to tune, and very easy to get wrong.