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  #21  
Old 23-01-2008
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The pins are now in the store.

The rear axle pins are here:
http://nor-tech.gforceimages.net/sto...products_id=52

Unfortunatley I miss calculated so the above pins are too long to go in the front hexes where the pins go from flat to flat They will fit with a bit of dremel work though (remove 1.7mm). I will get some that are a perfect fit for the front hexes.

The thin CVD nuts can be found here:
http://nor-tech.gforceimages.net/sto...products_id=60

Cheers,

G
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  #22  
Old 23-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northy View Post
I think Ash is fairly sensible though, and uses a 7.5 brushless. Stu (captain 12double) has never stripped them either.

It's all about the power

G
I have more power now hehe i have a 6.5 now but after about 3 minutes of runing it i snapped a front belt

A
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  #23  
Old 23-01-2008
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It also depends how much of an animal you are with your brakes (if running a diff) and if you nail it out of the corners, which i tend to :P
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  #24  
Old 23-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northy View Post
But you drive like a gay touring car girl.

Did yo guys know that Lee sometimes doesn't even use flat out on the straight?


Oooh you bitch

I know i need to drive harder and i get very fustrated knowing i can go faster, but the bj4 doesnt like to be pushed hard
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  #25  
Old 24-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northy View Post
.......... Stu (captain 12double) has never stripped them ..........
It's all about the power

G
I'll also anwer to 'Captain Yellow Five Spoke'

Milz, why do you have my car as your Avatar?
Do you like me a lot? I may me partly Welsh but that's not gonna happen.
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  #26  
Old 24-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
................the bj4 doesnt like to be pushed hard
Like a Norwegian hooker?
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  #27  
Old 24-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashleyb4 View Post
I have more power now hehe i have a 6.5 now but after about 3 minutes of runing it i snapped a front belt

A
your slipper was to tight thats why belts snapped
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  #28  
Old 24-01-2008
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Yeh, you need your slipper to slip for the first 3 foot, what a clever design......

G
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  #29  
Old 24-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoughtyUK.net View Post
your peak/orion must be lacking power, either that or your xx4 can't put the power down.

I never stripped any until I used my S4, xx4's drivetrain is full of rubber bands
Now i know you don't want to get into the whole speed/power debate with me Chris
But I only stripped the front hex in the wheels when the XXX4 first came out and the wheels had an star/multi hex in the front wheel.

Someone from the mid-west was complaining that they were snapping belts, but never thought it might be because his slipper was locked solid, and he had set the punch setting on his brushless speedo to 8.

BELTS ONLY BREAK IF YOU DON'T SET YOUR SLIPPER UP.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Northy View Post
Yeh, you need your slipper to slip for the first 3 foot, what a clever design......

G
It was a inovitive design 12 years ago when the car was first showcased at the Euro's in France at the hands of Kevin Moore, (using 1700 scrc cells), and the fact that after all this time, there is still not a car that is head over heels better than it, says everything about the about the car/design.
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  #30  
Old 24-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyreman View Post
It was a inovitive design 12 years ago when the car was first showcased at the Euro's in France at the hands of Kevin Moore, (using 1700 scrc cells), and the fact that after all this time, there is still not a car that is head over heels better than it, says everything about the about the car/design.
Nobody can argue with that. I guess the geometry will be copied for years to come now.
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  #31  
Old 24-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyreman View Post
..............blah blah blah..................................
All 100% correct.

I've only ever stripped the bi-hex wheels, never a hex - and I do run hotter motors than 12's, outdoors -

I NEVER break belts. Change them along with pully's after a seasons use, and set the slipper to give a little (not as much as 3 feet as that will melt the pully's) and they'll be fine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrislong View Post
I guess the geometry will be copied for years to come now.
I wonder what the next major manufacturer looking at a belt drive 4wd that will be?
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Last edited by Stu; 24-01-2008 at 09:16 PM.
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  #32  
Old 24-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu View Post
I wonder what the next major manufacturer looking at a belt drive 4wd that will be?
Oh, I wonder

Give me an S.......

G
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  #33  
Old 24-01-2008
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" S "
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  #34  
Old 24-01-2008
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Give me a 'C'..........
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  #35  
Old 24-01-2008
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" C "
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  #36  
Old 24-01-2008
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Who makes what's on your feet?
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  #37  
Old 24-01-2008
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Scholl


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Am i right
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  #38  
Old 24-01-2008
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STU! Never mind this bo**ocks!

a) Why are you not in bed?

b) Have you sorted what you want to do on sunday?
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  #39  
Old 09-02-2008
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Just to let everyone know I now have drive pins in the shop which are a direct fit for the front hexes

And some 4-40 taps

G
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  #40  
Old 23-05-2008
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UPDATE!

There is another option!!!!

We can use HB front & rear wheels on the X-5, rear wheels on an X-6.

For the front, you just need Part# 61474, this hex is bigger in diameter and so the wheel hex slipping issue is solved - while being a shallow hex again, so the locking part of the nut has enough thread through it to lock.

On the rear (X-5 & X-6), you need Part# 61475 and those Losi XX4 front bearing shims. The Hex fits straight onto the axle and pin, then locks properly. But then the HB wheels have an inset for the wheelnut which a Losi nut sits right in, but the wrench will not - this is where the XX4 bearing spacers go, put this on after the wheel, and then the nut will be able to be tightened.

The offsets are all as they should be.

For some these wheels may also be cheaper. This is why I am doing this.

Chris
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