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  #21  
Old 25-02-2008
Chris Doughty Chris Doughty is offline
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where the steering 'pivots' the in-line axle is the same distance front/back as this pin.

the trailing axle is further back than this pivot.

to use the in-line axles you also have to have the in-line axle steering arms as well.
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  #22  
Old 25-02-2008
Southwell Southwell is offline
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From rc10b4

Itīs for the use with the optional inline axles. As these axles are further to the front, in line with the kingpin, hence the name, the thick black spacer is then to be put in front of the caster block to retain the same wheelbase. Itīs similar to what is explained in picture 5 on page 3 in the manual, as the ball ends have also to be moved in case of use of inline axles.

So always make sure the spacers are behind the caster blocks with the standard trailing axles, otherwise the whole steering geometry would be "bent".

The inline axles change the steering character, steering will be much more direct. The kitīs trailing axles are used almost all the time.
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  #23  
Old 25-02-2008
c0sie c0sie is offline
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Thanks again lads
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  #24  
Old 25-05-2008
flipside flipside is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southwell View Post
Front ally brace is the main thing. I would go FT for the shocks as well.
You get full graphite excluding chassis, lightweight outdrives, better shock shafts and some other bits i can't think of. For the bit extra it's definately worth it.
isn't the factory team with graphite chassis then? i'm looking for a B4 too, but want the plastic chassis.

Switching froml losi to asso, what parts do you recommend when buying a B4? Spares, options, springs, etc...

thanks for any info!
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