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#221
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Gents
so are we saying darren b`s taplow setup is a good base indoor setup ? |
#222
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Any chance you can post a link to it?
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#223
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#224
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My servo link seems to be touching my servo case when turning to the left, the servo is a Futuba S9551.
Anyone got any tips on what to do about it? It isn't binding a lot, it's just a little bit, so i was maybe thinking of cutting away some of the plastic on the one rod end or something. |
#225
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its not the case my savox was doing this, the ball cup is catching the moulded web underneath the upper bulkhead 2 mins with file sorted.
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#226
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hmmm... might be both, mine was catching on underside of bulkhead (as you say quick dremel or file sorts that one) and the front of the servo (only just but enough to stop it locking out on full right lock)!
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#227
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Hello
Has already someone tried how the losi 22 is against an asso b4 in rear motor configuration on a low grip surface? Thanks |
#228
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Woohoo picking mine up today at my LHS here in Dallas Texas, but don't think I'll be running mid-motor as our local indoor track is a pretty rough usually low traction clay surface.
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#229
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my ball cup is also catching on the top of the servo casing so cant get full right lock :-( how has others got around this ?
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racing made better with TLR, Tekin, LRP, Savox |
#230
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Here my personal battery holder I Dremeled in my garage. The front carbon plate between LiPo and servo is dedicated to receive Rx and PT.
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http://www.mid44.com/ |
#231
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wooooooow this batery holder looks awsome =)
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The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it´s limit´s. TLR 22 "1.0" |
#232
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Old school servo here, Oliv'!
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Schumacher KF | K1 Aero | RWS RZ6R |MiniZ MR-03 | Orion R10 esc | LRP motors | Orion 90c lipos Rusti Design - Awesome custom stickers and cool stuff My trader feedback |
#233
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Just putting the rack together and I like it.
Just wondered how people solved the high point around the seam in the middle? looks like this is a result of a 2 part moulding being used to create the chanel in the rack. You can see the marks (high point) in the middle caused by offering up the rack to the casing for the first time. I'm reluctant to put a file or sand paper in there as rubbing off the smooth standard finish is going to result in more problems down the line. But I'm not having inconsistant steering either..... any ideas? ![]()
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www.facebook.com/racewayone RACEWAYONE :: LMR :: MIBOSPORT :: RC CONCEPT :: SMD Trader Feedback: http://oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81070 |
#234
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TBH Will, I just built mine.
When I put the prototypes together, there was a noticeable high spot and I did blade the rack as it was the rack that was exhibiting the issue back then but the production fit and materials are much nicer. I make you right not to want to sand it - you might be able to get a thin blade in there if you're careful but I didn't do anything and I can't notice any high spot now that the front end is fully assembled and being powered by a ridiculously powerful digital servo ![]() We never experienced any issues during testing with the prototypes and since these are much nicer, I'm not expecting any now either. Not sure if this helps but it is what I have done myself. |
#235
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Did you lubricate the rack at all? I've got some PTFE spray that'll should work nicely without being a magnet for dust/dirt
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www.facebook.com/racewayone RACEWAYONE :: LMR :: MIBOSPORT :: RC CONCEPT :: SMD Trader Feedback: http://oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81070 |
#236
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Looks really good..... :-)
Need to see pictures of the electrics in there now. Tony
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http://insidelineracing.co.uk |
#237
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Loving that battery strap, it looks mint..
This is probably a really dumbass question but why do some people drill the top out of the ballcups? ![]()
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#238
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To adjust the height without removing the cup
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#239
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Cheers Mike, makes sense.
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#240
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and it fits well with my old and slow brain
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http://www.mid44.com/ |
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