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#642
03-11-2011
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lol a win is a win
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#643
03-11-2011
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lol to funny. there were 5 cars racing with me. I got some good info on carpet setup here on oople. thanks all. All the people I race with are using offroad dirt setups not carpet. They thought I was crazy running the tires I run and the setup I run. They are all reading rctech, which is great for dirt racing but carpet and astro racing oople is the way to go.
__________________
Cumberlandrc.com, TLR 22, Futaba
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#644
03-11-2011
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Quote:
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#645
03-11-2011
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nope. I was faster with the gear diff compared to ball diff. I just felt better on our track. Dirt def would be ball diff thou. I beat the blind guy with the one armed mans arm
__________________
Cumberlandrc.com, TLR 22, Futaba
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#647
16-11-2011
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Servo Horns
Hello,
I was wondering, I have 2 Losi 22's and I use Spectrum Servos on both, I've also got 2 spare servo horn sets. Turns out the servo saver in these cars is for these to strip. I only need the 23t servo horns. Does anyone want to swap any other size for the 23t servos horns they have? Figured if you use 25t I could do with your 23t ones and you could use my 25t ones. I have up to 4 of size to swap. PM me if you're interested. Tristan
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#648
16-11-2011
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Quote:
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#649
16-11-2011
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Well the idea of the plastic one is that the servo doesn't get damaged, I would rather a plastic one stripped every 6 months (baring in mind I do have a tendency to bump into walls fairly frequently) then I had to replace the gear box in my servo. It's not an expensive bit, but just seems pointless to have ones I can't use sat in my spares box.
Tristan
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#650
16-11-2011
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but something else entirely to think a plastic horn will strip before it kills a servo.
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#651
16-11-2011
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Quote:
I do have a stripped servo horn that I've had to replace and a perfectly fine servo though. Now I wouldn't like to make an assumption but...... I do agree that servo savers are about as much use as a chocolate teapot, but having a cheap weak point in a system that isn't the expensive bit is a fairly standard practise. I run a high torque servo that was a serious investment. Tristan Aircraft Design and Maintenance Engineer!!!!
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#652
02-12-2011
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Hi guys I am looking for some advice on the shock oil I should use. I race in high grip carpet and the springs in my 22 are red (front) and white (rear) I am racing in rear motor configuration. If anyone could give me some lights I would appreciate.
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#653
02-12-2011
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If you're running on a high bite surface, you may find your spring combination is a little soft so in addition to oils, you may want to up your spring rates to possibly a silver front and a yellow (maybe pink) rear.
With the kit pistons, my starting point would be 55s and a 30wt front and 27.5wt rear - with silver front springs and yellow rears. Depending on traction and temperatures, you might want to up the oils 2.5-5wt. HTH
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#654
16-05-2012
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TeamSR
TeamSR Losi TLR22T carbon fiber front and rear shock towers now available by teamsr.co
  TeamSR announces it's new aesthetically pleasing and functional option part for the Team Losi 22 Truck in a stylish 4mm thick carbon fiber rear shock tower.* This is not your standard tower you might have found or seen in the past.* This particular item is manufactured from true quasi-isotropic chassis grade carbon fiber and comes with pre-glued wet look edges; recessed holes for the stock 1/10th body mounts along with the needed hardware to ensure your tower is complete.* This tower is a direct replacement of the stock composite tower and is intended for the use with the TLR 22T only.* Look for the aftermarket front carbon fiber shock tower from TeamSR to give you a matching set. High-Quality and a very durable 4mm thick Quasi-Isotropic Carbon Fiber Shock tower.* Anodized and Machined 70/75 Aircraft Aluminum with TeamSR Logo engraved. Includes: 1. Thick 4mm and TRUE Quasi-Isotropic Carbon Fiber Shock Tower. 2. Machined Anodized 70/75 Aircraft Aluminum Rear Tower Assembly. 3. Black Oxodized Steel washers for the shock mounts, Qty. 2. 4. Steel Button Head Screws for attaching the graphite tower to the assmembly.
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#655
25-05-2012
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Adding weight - what is it all about!?
I used to race Losi XX and XXX 2WD buggies many years ago, back then we always tried to make our buggies as light as possible. Just like any real race car, really.
Nowadays, as in this thread, I am reading a lot about the benefits of adding weight to many different parts of the 22 (or other buggies if you like). I do not get this. It is something I would like to challenge, mainly from a physics point of view, and I am happy to discuss and hear your opinion. IMHO, the only benefit of adding weight to a race car is to slightly improve a poor setup, but never to the point where it actually becomes as good as a good setup that is not using any weight. An example: Adding weight helps to keep the car planted on bumpy surfaces. Ok, but why not soften the suspension so a lighter car absorbs them equally well or even better without weights AND accelerates/brakes faster? Another one: The car has more rear traction and accelerates better if I add weight at the back. Ok, but why not go with a milder motor/ESC setup instead and achieve a more balanced performance in the turns (e.g. less understeer with no weight at the back)? You see what I am trying to say. Can anyone explain from a physics point of view the benefits of adding (unnecessary) weight? As I said, in my opinion a better setup (shocks, roll center, etc.) should always work better than adding dumb blocks of brass. Happy to get some fresh ideas on this! 
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#656
25-05-2012
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Back in the Losi XX and XXX days we were running with no way near the power the brushless systems give these days.
More power changes whole handling physics, especially on an offroad vehicle so weight is needed to counter act the changes. Back in the XX XXX days in UK we were mainly racing on grass too, which has a lot larger drag factor on transmissions and speed compared to modern day astro tracks with lots more grip. You can design the perfect balanced chassis for rollcentre and C of G but if the front wheels are in the air everytime you hit the throttle then it won't make a difference to handling unless wheels are firmly on ground!
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#657
25-05-2012
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This question has been asked and debated many many times in numerous threads!
There seems to be a number of reasons why adding weight works, here's just a few: 1) Until recently, most buggies were designed in the pre-Lipo days. Nimh's were heavier so the easiest way for people to get up to speed with Lipo was to add weight so the overall weight was about the same. When doing this, you could also alter the weight bias. This is similar in principle to how people used to move batteries backward or forwards on the chassis. 2) The cars are so much more powerful now than in the XX-era; a heavier car tends to accelerate smoother and handle the bumpy stuff better. 3) At regional and national level, practice time is usually very limited so it is easier/quicker to add/remove weight to dial the car in than try and fine tune the suspension in that limited practice time. Adding weight just works! Spark up a conversation with Tony "Rudebits" Evdoka if you need convincing further 
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#658
25-05-2012
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Quote:
one the one hand, I can't help but think that the late great Colin Chapman would be turning in his grave at the thought of adding weight to make a race car more controllable. But... There's no denying that it works! My own view on this is three fold. 1) As /tobys says - practice time at our UK national events is very limited and so people tend to stick with what they know and making quick(ish) changes to gain a setup that is workable from. 2) By and large, the tyres that we are all using (that characterize the grip probably more than anything else) were designed at a time when the cars ran at a weight of near 1700g - so perhaps the tyre works best at that weight??? 3) Although I'm no dynamics or physics expert, adding weight to slow the reaction of the car down is something I can comprehend. Cars have become so powerful as we all know that just hanging on to them has become of critical importance here in the UK. Having a car that is ultra reactive may just be too difficult for most people to hang on to. Adding weight can slow down the reactiveness of a car which then makes it more controllable - similar to how you say that a slower motor may do but without losing out in straight line speed or punch to take a short run at a set of doubles etc. In my own experience, everytime I've run a car near 1500g in 2WD, it is mega quick on a single lap but I can't hang on to it for 5 minutes. My reactions are simply not up to the task. I find myself adding weight as the grip comes up to make my car easier to drive (i.e. slower reacting). When the grip is lower, I find I can run less weight... I'm not saying it's right or wrong - ultimately you create a setup that works for you based on tuning the myriad of variables at your disposal. Some people may prioritise weight over something else - but if the net result is improved lap times then is it wrong? I've tried to objectively test and I'm happy with the results and conclusions I'm drawing from it. Thus it gets logged in my databank of 'what to do when it's not quite working' - which is unique to me based on my driving style and my experiences. I suspect your databank is similarly unique based on your experiences.
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#659
25-05-2012
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Well, although owning the car from the very first days it came out, I only finally tried the LRC block last night...
Wow, the car's a different animal with that on. It was sketchy as hell and I fought it most he way round a lap, and the jumping, well, if you were not 100% dead straight on the jump, god help you, it went in all directions! So, I put the HRC block back on and boy, what a smooth beast we had now. Felt so much better through pretty much all the lap. The shocking part... I was Slower! So, the first time I ever use a LRC block and I'm immediately quicker... I think I need to re-think a few things and do some testing. 
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#660
25-05-2012
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Thanks guys for the feedback on adding "dumb" weight.
I still think I am more with the great Colin Chapman What is true is that the cars have a lot more power now than back then. Perhaps with the introduction and evolution of brushless systems we should have scaled down to 380 size brushless motors, maintaining about 200 Watts, and even smaller and lighter LiPos (2,0 - 2,5 Ah) in our 1/10th scale buggies. Imagine the slim chassis designs that would be possible! I also like the tire theory, i.e. pressure per surface area, etc. What was mentioned above, that a heavy car handles bumps better than a lighter car, can just not be true. It may be that our shock setups are to hard, shock friction too high, or the suspension (arms, etc.) too heavy, but a heavy car at least in theory is never better through bumps than a light car. Anyway, in the end its about consistently fast lap times. I will continue to try and achieve them without adding any weight, but hey, if this does not work on a given day or given track, I might as well throw in some. May Mr. Chapman forgive me!
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