Lazer zxr

[Welshy40]

Ok guys anyone from the uk doing the maritime raceway events? Im doing the entire series with my Lazer ZXR so who is going to join me?

[Crashtest33]

When is the prototype zx-r tub gonna be ready for mass production? And do we have a rough price James?
Cheers

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Crashtest33

When is the prototype zx-r tub gonna be ready for mass production? And do we have a rough price James?
Cheers

Well if it gets made this week and i get it and am happy then possibly will be readily available within two weeks. Also you get to choose your layout so if you have changes think them through carefully. Costs are going to be roughly at the moment but believe its going to be £120

[Migs]

Quick one guys. With the lazer zxr is the aim to try and push weight towards the front end? Looking at battery layout options I can run a shorty down the 4 cell side or a shorty or full stick pack across the back of the chassis like on the lazer alpha. I know on older tamiyas like the top force and astute they benefit from having battery moved forward as the tyre technology is much better and affords enough rear grip without the need to bias it all rearwards

Thanks

Migs

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Migs

Quick one guys. With the lazer zxr is the aim to try and push weight towards the front end? Looking at battery layout options I can run a shorty down the 4 cell side or a shorty or full stick pack across the back of the chassis like on the lazer alpha. I know on older tamiyas like the top force and astute they benefit from having battery moved forward as the tyre technology is much better and affords enough rear grip without the need to bias it all rearwards

Thanks

Migs

Migs,

No as the car is super twitchy already so better to have mid ship equally balanced on both sides, ive found a good layout on my designed chassis at fibrelyte giving good feeling and balance and also my design now being made. If using stick packs best to go across the chassis rather than down one side.

[Migs]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Migs,

No as the car is super twitchy already so better to have mid ship equally balanced on both sides, ive found a good layout on my designed chassis at fibrelyte giving good feeling and balance and also my design now being made. If using stick packs best to go across the chassis rather than down one side.

Hi welshy. Thanks so much for the info. I'll take your advice

Cheers

Migs

[Mark H]

Just rebuilt my lazer after it being in the shed since 1991 and going to give it a run out at the local indoor club which run on carpet . What I need some help with is how should I set the M3 nut on the drive on the side of the spur gear , am I right in thinking turn it tighter more drive to the front less tight more to rear ? I have to sets of gear box 1 with four Wavey washers. Or would I be better using the single small spring both have the slipper pads . Also how should I set the limiter nut on the other side . Have the instruction book still but it's not clear. Just don't want to trash the only two belts I have . Thinking of buying a 13t or maybe a 10t Brussless with lipo's . Any help would be great , going to be running on new lazer 5 wheels an Schumacher yellow mini pins . O and any recommend spur pinion I should look to run to save the belts. Thanks. Mark

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Mark H

Just rebuilt my lazer after it being in the shed since 1991 and going to give it a run out at the local indoor club which run on carpet . What I need some help with is how should I set the M3 nut on the drive on the side of the spur gear , am I right in thinking turn it tighter more drive to the front less tight more to rear ? I have to sets of gear box 1 with four Wavey washers. Or would I be better using the single small spring both have the slipper pads . Also how should I set the limiter nut on the other side . Have the instruction book still but it's not clear. Just don't want to trash the only two belts I have . Thinking of buying a 13t or maybe a 10t Brussless with lipo's . Any help would be great , going to be running on new lazer 5 wheels an Schumacher yellow mini pins . O and any recommend spur pinion I should look to run to save the belts. Thanks. Mark

First things wheels. Get Annsman mad rat front and rear wheels, they are perfect dimensions. The zx5 wheels are way off so a waste of time and money. Answer blue inserts and schumacher yellow mini pins all round for carpet and shiney floors.

Motor a 10t should be good and recomend basing your ratios on team novaks ratio chart online for the motors. Its a good starting point.

On the one way i didnt like the hex nut with the allen key screw so use a normal nyloc nut reversed and screwed on almost tight so the silver oneway washer can move but not excessively.

Slipper clutch is all depending on what one you have. Does yours have balls or sliipper pads. If slipper pads its down to what you prefer and yes tightening gradually so theres a fraction of slip whilst holding it down is what i set it whilst using a 10 double brushed. With the balls on the spur its not easy to get rught but grease and using the extra pad helps to give more torque to the wheels but is more suited for low grip tracks rather than high grip. I liked the washers but they must be bent before tightening as it makes a difference.

[Mark H]

Thank you very much for you help it makes setting it up a bit Clearer. I think i must have Be able back in the day to set the slipper it has the pads (no balls) but its so long since I last ran it, I have just Forgotten. Now need to trim my new body shell kamtec lazer zxs it needs lots of work to fit but am sure it will be ok. And Choose a esc and lipo plus a charger and going for a 10t motor. Will let you kow how I get on. Cheers. Mark

[Mark H]

Some picks of the cars as they came out the shed after almost 23 years! Almost have Enough spares to build Another Scorpion.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Mark H

Thank you very much for you help it makes setting it up a bit Clearer. I think i must have Be able back in the day to set the slipper it has the pads (no balls) but its so long since I last ran it, I have just Forgotten. Now need to trim my new body shell kamtec lazer zxs it needs lots of work to fit but am sure it will be ok. And Choose a esc and lipo plus a charger and going for a 10t motor. Will let you kow how I get on. Cheers. Mark

Esc wise the hpi flux pros pretty good and come with a built in switch, or the lrp flow but im not so sure on reliability. Motor wise id personlly go for an easy solder motor and avois lrp. Reedy and a couple of other companies have the easy solder tabs.

[Migs]

Originally Posted by Migs

so normal width, the 62.5 unis work, im thinking the um510 from the rb5 might also work, but if I switch to the wide front end, 65.5mm would work, which means the readyset lazer hop ups should work, depending on axel length

ok trick is, my mk1 zxr only has one hole at the bottom of the c hub, so I cant widen it, is there a different part number that has that option? Edit. I think I worked out its LA59

thanks again

Ok weird quoting myself I know but I wanted to let everyone know how the front end worked out. The gap between the two holes on the la59 hubs is about 4mm so the 3 racing zx5 unis work perfectly. I put some wide clamping hexes on so I can run all my tamiya front rims and the front end is close to the same width as my db01. Ive got a few other things in planning. I'll let you all know how it goes. I'm hoping to get the b44 saddle lipo cradle into the car shortly

[Welshy40]

Ok guys an update.

Chassis has been made, asd per my previous picture, now a rough cut before the finishing off. Holes have been drilled and cell holes now to come along with the motor section cut away and the corner side wall hole being drilled as well. Proto will have a 24mm high side wall so hope its not too high as my original first chassis had 23mm. FYI you can have the chassis cut whichever way you want and for shelfers you can have it made exactly like in the pictures obviously it will be finioshed properly before you get it. For shelfers the motor cut away wont really be needed, well in my opinion anyway.

As you can see the lipo tray design has been cut and put on the chassis for you to see what it will look like.

Also the shock tower is what i will be using and as you all know have modified the original design with more strength at the bottom strut. This one has been changed to fit my design front gearbox that Oosh123 made for me.

Then the last item the little brackets, ok I am having a few made but will not be made as they are difficult to make. Once I have tested I will be selling with bearings and the screws and bits need to basically fit to your gearboxes, ok after ive made a manual on how to do it so all can then race without the fear of snapping the rear belts.

Let me know your thoughts on this.

[Lenn]

[HKS_TRD]

Wow that looks stunning

I'm clearing a spot on my shelf for mine :-)

[moth898]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Ok guys an update.

Chassis has been made, asd per my previous picture, now a rough cut before the finishing off. Holes have been drilled and cell holes now to come along with the motor section cut away and the corner side wall hole being drilled as well. Proto will have a 24mm high side wall so hope its not too high as my original first chassis had 23mm. FYI you can have the chassis cut whichever way you want and for shelfers you can have it made exactly like in the pictures obviously it will be finioshed properly before you get it. For shelfers the motor cut away wont really be needed, well in my opinion anyway.

As you can see the lipo tray design has been cut and put on the chassis for you to see what it will look like.

Also the shock tower is what i will be using and as you all know have modified the original design with more strength at the bottom strut. This one has been changed to fit my design front gearbox that Oosh123 made for me.

Then the last item the little brackets, ok I am having a few made but will not be made as they are difficult to make. Once I have tested I will be selling with bearings and the screws and bits need to basically fit to your gearboxes, ok after ive made a manual on how to do it so all can then race without the fear of snapping the rear belts.

Let me know your thoughts on this.

I like it, but I would like a little option. Make a few more holes for the battery position. A couple more front and back of the one you have already might give a good tuning option.

p.s. just for laughs...the dead guy oosh, has a new job. I pissed myself laughing when I saw it posted on linkedin

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by moth898

I like it, but I would like a little option. Make a few more holes for the battery position. A couple more front and back of the one you have already might give a good tuning option.

p.s. just for laughs...the dead guy oosh, has a new job. I pissed myself laughing when I saw it posted on linkedin

Battery movement ive designed it but tbh is not really needed. Still if you want the design when contacting fibrelyte mention to Stephen i made a design for my zxs chassis, that had 16 holes in for the battery trays and it and might help.

[Welshy40]

Ok, its just being finished off but all cutting and drilling has been done to my specification, but as mentioned its down to you guys to decide exactly what you want so be sure you get it right when ordering. I should be getting on Friday.

Price will be £120 for the chassis, obviosuly not including P&P. Once I am happy with the build and fitting I will give the go ahead to Fibrelyte, and if all goes to plan that should be on Monday / Tuesday.

[kek23k]

Looking good James, how come you went with cell cut outs on the chassis? Just curious, is it for fitting the Lipo weights?

I'm definitely after one but I'd just like the ZX-RR layout, what would be the best way to order this? Should I just send my ZX-RR chassis over to Fibrelyte?

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by kek23k

Looking good James, how come you went with cell cut outs on the chassis? Just curious, is it for fitting the Lipo weights?

I'm definitely after one but I'd just like the ZX-RR layout, what would be the best way to order this? Should I just send my ZX-RR chassis over to Fibrelyte?

I would advise looking at the fibrelyte website, click on the link below on my name tag and go through to the Kyosho section and you can see the chassis designs they have. I supplied almost all the chassis' and pretty much most shock towers as well so dont think youll need to send anything to them. Just make sure you choose the relevant item and any mods such as having the motor section cut away like on my chassis above or not cuting it, no holes or holes etc etc as the advantages with this chassis is the mold has no holes so they have to make a blank tub first and then drill and cut to your specifications so makes it more unique for you. I hope I make sense.

When I got all my big results and gained my drive for my sponsers I had the 1700SCRC cells in and had the car dialled with those, so trying to get the setup as close to the original I am now using zeppin brass weights designed for cell holes which slot in perfectly, then I add a brass plate from Rudebitz ontop and then the Lipo tray sits ontop (on both sides) to keep the brass attached to the chassis and the Lipo sits ontop of that.

This makes the weight of the lipo pretty close to the weight of the scrc so means I can get the car to handle more or less the way I had it in the 90's.