Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?) - Page 48

jimmy · #**941** 25-01-2008

hmmmmmm, where are you getting all that steering from? The DF03 shocks aren't the best, but perhaps I'd look at tuning those before anything else since it's the only majoy handling thing you've changed from the kit setup - which I raced twice and didn't find the same (oversteer)?
the steering wasn't terrible but I really wanted a one-way to get the car to turn enough.

Maybe try going to a harder oil / piston / spring in the front? The supplied df03 hopup shock pistons aren't ideal - I ended up putting in 501X shafts so I could use 501X pistons, which was a load better (this was on a DF03).

Shame you have to use Tamiya tyres but they aren't too bad. You'd probably easily put in another lap or two just by going to schumacher tyres.

DCM · #**942** 25-01-2008

reet, I got some experience with the DF03 shocks and the trick is, staying within the Tamiya parts bin, is to use three hole touring car pistons in the rear with two hole up front. What is happening with your car, as there is very little damping, the car is dropping on it's nose when you brake or throttle off, making the rear very loose.

Try two hole 40wt front and three hole 35 or 40wt oil in the rear. Also if you can, go back to the kit springs.q

Eddie168 · #**943** 25-01-2008

Got my Demon power products 5000MAH LIPO today it doesn't look attractive as the orion ones lol gonna charge them up tonight and give a little blast tmr and see what happens

Sensory Overload · #**944** 25-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy

hmmmmmm, where are you getting all that steering from? The DF03 shocks aren't the best, but perhaps I'd look at tuning those before anything else since it's the only majoy handling thing you've changed from the kit setup - which I raced twice and didn't find the same (oversteer)?
the steering wasn't terrible but I really wanted a one-way to get the car to turn enough.

Maybe try going to a harder oil / piston / spring in the front? The supplied df03 hopup shock pistons aren't ideal - I ended up putting in 501X shafts so I could use 501X pistons, which was a load better (this was on a DF03).

Shame you have to use Tamiya tyres but they aren't too bad. You'd probably easily put in another lap or two just by going to schumacher tyres.

Thanks Jimmy (great site by the way!) Funny think is that I'm running 50wt/DF03 2 hole piston w/gold springs in the front followed by 40wt/Df03 2 hole using the std gun metal spring from the DF03 kit. Should I still go higher??? Not using a oneway - yet. I'm also using the 501x alloy uprights to fine tune roll center and arm lenght. Will the losi or associated springs work?? what about trimming the outer edges of the front tires. the TCS Tamiya rolls may allow it.

DCM · #**945** 25-01-2008

Overload, I post above a setup for you, keep all the shock positions and camberlink positions as kit for now and run the shocks as stated above. The kit pistons are about as useful as a chocolate saucepan......

Sensory Overload · #**946** 25-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

Overload, I post above a setup for you, keep all the shock positions and camberlink positions as kit for now and run the shocks as stated above. The kit pistons are about as useful as a chocolate saucepan......

Thanks DCM, i'll give it a try.

A.J. Gee · #**947** 25-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tamiya Slave

Can anyone tell me how tight my rear Diff should be on the Durga? I thought i had the whole "differential" thing down to a science, but i noticed while spinning my rear wheels by hand, that one of the wheels would stutter and then eventually start spinning again. Is my problem the Diff being too tight or too loose? I was wondering if anyone could recomend how many turns i should go from the tightest point that the diff can be tightened. Such as 3 turns from the tightest point. Thanks Guys.

A.J.

Can anyone help me please?

DCM · #**948** 25-01-2008

I did post how to set the diff up earlier in this thread.

Take spur gear cover off.

Hold both rear wheels and try to turn the spur, if it turns, tighten diff 1/4 turn at a time till you can't turn the spur.... then turn an extra 1/8th a turn.

If your rear diff keeps loosening, did you glue the diff plates to the plastic holders, check to see if they are still glued.... replae the diff srew and nut.

A.J. Gee · #**949** 26-01-2008

Thank you very much my friend. I greatly appreciate your tome. And yes you are correct about already posing information on the DIFF. thanks again.

A.J.

Sensory Overload · #**950** 26-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

Overload, I post above a setup for you, keep all the shock positions and camberlink positions as kit for now and run the shocks as stated above. The kit pistons are about as useful as a chocolate saucepan......

DCM/Jimmy I took a closer look at the rear end and found what I think is the problem - oversteer/corner entry. I'll post some pics shortly but I found that the rear suspension was hitting the rear of the chassis on compression. There just wasn't enough travel from the rear dampers off throttle into a high speed corner (DCM's post got me thinking - thanks you where spot on!!) Since the Tamiya Spec class disallows any mods of the chassis, I first add the the anti squat shims that are includes in the kit to the rear A12 suspension blocks. It seemed to work but wasn't happy with the arm angle as it took almost 2-2.5mm to provide the needed room. I solved the problem by moving the suspension arms as far back as possible using the shims towards the front v.s. the rear. Simple fix!! I'm running some practice laps tomorrow and will keep everyone posted. Thanks DCM/Jimmy for the input. SO

wayneski · #**951** 26-01-2008

Eddie,

Where did you get it from?

DCM · #**952** 26-01-2008

overload, I run mine kit except shocks and a slipper and have none of your problems, even on the kit shocks. I would return it back to the kit shocks and suspension setup and try again, the DF03 shocks as they come out of the box, just don't cut it.

Eddie168 · #**953** 26-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by wayneski

Eddie,

Where did you get it from?

i got it from www.demonpowerproducts.co.uk

jimmy · #**954** 26-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

overload, I run mine kit except shocks and a slipper and have none of your problems, even on the kit shocks. I would return it back to the kit shocks and suspension setup and try again, the DF03 shocks as they come out of the box, just don't cut it.

I'd second that, the kit setup with no hop-ups sounds better than what you've been experiencing so far - it should be a very stable car.
I have my car on the longest wheelbase possible - I think that is the kit setup?

josh_smaxx · #**955** 26-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy

I'd second that, the kit setup with no hop-ups sounds better than what you've been experiencing so far - it should be a very stable car.
I have my car on the longest wheelbase possible - I think that is the kit setup?

Watching yours go round York in the video (unfortunately i didnt see it in the flesh, must have missed it) it seemed incredably stable, looked great i thought, definately gonna be a quick car.

Sensory Overload · #**956** 27-01-2008

Well don't I feel like an idiot! I took your advise (DCM/Jimmy) and took a second look at the Durga build manual. It looks like I incorrectly installed the rear arms to there shortest wheelbase position rather than then the longest. This explains the lack of dampening in the rear. The arms in the shortest position where hitting the backside of the chassis halfway through there compression. I also added the Tamiya touring car pistons F2/R3 using the 40/35wt oil -

100 times better. Thanks for all your help. SO

Toonz · #**957** 27-01-2008

what is the recommended shock length for DF03 shocks?

Metla · #**958** 27-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

reet, I got some experience with the DF03 shocks and the trick is, staying within the Tamiya parts bin, is to use three hole touring car pistons in the rear with two hole up front.

Does anyone have an item number for these pistons?

Trying to make sure I order the right ones.

EDIT- I ordered #53573 and #53572 They look to be correct.

DCM · #**959** 27-01-2008

thats the right ones, and you need to be between 30 and 40wt oils for the shocks, but it does work.

Metla · #**960** 27-01-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCM

thats the right ones, and you need to be between 30 and 40wt oils for the shocks, but it does work.

Thanks for that, For the price of the pistons it has to be worth it.