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#1081
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Does anybody know when the #54028 shock set is due to be released to the hungry public?
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#1082
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I just made a new top part for the 3Racing rear shock, raised it by 5mm and works a treat for ride height and the driveshaft
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1083
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I agree it's the tower.
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#1084
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I still got plenty of droop, I can now use the spring collars to adjust ride height and my driveshafts aren't going to pop out lol
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1085
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Well I finally got to give mine a couple of runs on the weekend at my local track and I have to say I was super impressed
![]() As I ran a 501x in 4wd last year I was able to directly compare them on the same track. I used my 501x shocks too so the cars set-up was as close as possible to my 501. The car was far easier to drive than my 501x and seemed to have a little more on-power steering, but a little less turn-in (this was with the diff up front). It also jumped a lot better than the 501, both landing flatter and being more consistant. For its first runs it was awesome ![]() Next step is to try it with the over-drive front diff like the 501x and see how that goes.
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Schumacher Cougar SV-Durango Dex410-Top Photon |
#1086
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I used mine this weekend in anger. 3Racing front and rear tower, with a home made top part to raise the top of the shocks to reduce droop and also allow ride height adjustment. The track was a carpet track, big table top and two jumps which could be doubled.
After stopping worrying about snapping the chassis, the car did the double every time faultlessly (except for the occaisional interference of the numpty at the sticks) and cleared the table top every time. And this car took some serious tumbles and abuse. But it just came back for more each time! Handling wise, I found no need at all to go for a one-way or even think it might need it, the car was turning in sharp and hard and keeping tight on the exit. What an awesome car!
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1087
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#1088
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yeap, durga dude.... the dirk diggle, 70's porn star rc car.... you could buy that car if you stopped redbull for one week Chris!! heehee
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1089
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Well cool car, if any one is thinking about getting one i would pc DCM about the shocks and twoers he has on there and go get one. no need for a one way honest it had lots of on power roatation with out it. Wow steve i still cant belive it
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#1090
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thought you would be impressed dude!
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1091
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you know i just spend my luch break looking on ebay for one lol
but i realy dont want to get bk into racing only doing the mirco x things coz the stuff is sat at Hs
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Team Associated- HobbyWing- Reedy- CML |
#1092
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you seen the air time mine was getting dude, cheap enough to sit round and not be used for weeks on end..... heehee
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1093
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According to this link the forthcoming #54028 dampers are also compatible with the DF-03 chassis. Does this mean that they are just the same dampers with a different part number? Why can't Tamiya just release stuff instead of tempting us with just enough info to be useless!
![]() http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54028 |
#1094
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Patience is a virtue.
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My Garage DB-01 Durga Brushless E-Maxx F103GT Clodzilla II Avante 2001 Grass Hopper II |
#1095
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I gave up on patience and built the 501X shocks from spares instead lol
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1096
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But, I don't wanna wait, I need them nowwwww. And they say it's just the kids of today who want everything straightaway, don't you believe it mate,LOL.
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#1097
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just been watching a vid of one of my races from the weekend, and all the cars were slapping chassis's after the jumps and mine was no different, looked as good as the B44's out there.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#1098
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That's cos it IS as good as anything out there - at least in terms of sheer performance with a couple of upgrades.
I think I've done 6 meetings with the durga now - at batley on sunday I didn't change anything from the previous outing at Worksop where I'd done a few things to get the car to turn on the weird surface - mainly limiting the rear shocks. The car was pants at batley - the rear was really really loose and I was struggling. it got better as the day went on, mainly from adjusting my driving style but also laying down the rear shocks to their inner most on the tower. I think a bit more droop would have helped at Batley as Mike West pointed out - but I was too lazy to redo the rear shocks and remove some limiters ![]() By the end the car was awesome of course - I got the fastest laps in my last qualifier and got some of the fastest laps in my final, but made a few too many mistakes on the challenging track. I had a problem with the rear diff at this meeting. I couldn't clear the double jump even though I had the power and the slipper was fairly tight. The rear diff felt GOOD but I gave the car some power with the car in my lap and the rear diff spun like it was totally loose (which it wasn't). I took it apart - which is a bugger of a job if I'm honest since I still had the kit screws in the car (now replaced) and noticed one of the diff plates had come unglued from the plastic holder. No ammount of tightening would stop the diff spinning - so if you have any problems at all with the differentials it's worth checking the plates are securely attached otherwise they'll just spin. I replaced the diff with a 501X diff and it was loads better (will rebuild the kit diff later). The rear belt looked to have very slightly rounded teeth - whilst the front looked perfect still. I also noticed a little collection of rubber around the centre bulkhead - so I assume the rear belt might be rubbing slightly tho I've not had time to check it out yet. Another thing I noticed was an increase in 'slop' particularly around the inner hinge pins front and rear. I'm assuming the plastic balls have worn slightly and I could probably do with adding some shims in there. Peter Moss brought his brand spanker Durga to Batley and was using some touring car flourine coated balls for the hinge pins - which sound ideal for the plastic mounts, better than putting harsher steel ones in from the 501X maybe? Anyway I've rattled on a bit - the bottom line is the car was ace. It might be getting retired soon when my 501X gets rebuilt, but I've really enjoyed racing it and won't be selling it. Last edited by jimmy; 19-02-2008 at 01:18 AM. |
#1099
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i notice that the diameter of the 501xWE front rim is 1mm bigger than the durga front rim.
why is that so? any difference in performance? |
#1100
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TRF 501x / 502xs / 511 / 503/ 201xr/ 201xmw/ 211xm ![]() AE C4.5 Centro / AE CT4.5 Centro / T5M SDRC / SMC / Shop UFO |
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