Rear suspension is next, the usual lower wishbone and upper camber rod are used like on the front. The wishbones are new in the worlds edition being the “Variable Length” ones from the BK2 2wd buggy, these are basically identical in use to the original arms (and those from the XXX) there is an additional hole for the hub which is NOT used and one extra hole for shock positioning which is also not used since the shock would foul the wheel rim.
There have been reports of some wheels internal ribbing fouling on the ends of these VLA rear arms, some people file / cut off the extra portion of the arms as they will never be used. B4 / Proline rear wheels will foul the ends of the arms.
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The pivot blocks have been hand finished by Losi, cut apart from a larger one piece pivot block and with machined recess for extra clearance where the out drives pass over, the included blocks provide 2 degrees of Anti Squat and 3 Degrees of Toe in.
Anti-Squat is also adjustable by placing supplied wedge shaped shims under the front (or rear) of the pivot blocks.
The inner hinge pins are beefy looking blank steel items, no E-clips here as they are captured against the chassis one side and rear bumper at the other.
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The manual tells you to reverse the installation of the rear wishbones and run the Left marked arm on the right and vice versa. Speaking to Team Losi drivers it seems this just has the effect of shortening the wheelbase slightly. So they can be run either way around to suit track conditions. |
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The rear tower is a rather large chunk of graphite composite which straddles the rear gearbox and sits atop the hinge pin blocks, they are secured along with the hinge pin blocks from below by 2 counter sunk screws per side.
The rear tower in my kit had a problem, the top holes for the rear wing mount were non-existent. There was an indentation approximately 2mm deep but no hole. I looked on another spare graphite tower I had just bought and it was the same. Another spare tower, plastic this time, was fine.
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| Im not sure if this is a problem with a small number of re-release towers but no one I have spoken to has seen the same problem, I got the drill out and made my own, no big deal, unless you dont have a drill ofcourse. |
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A metal hinge pin brace sits over the exposed hinge pins that protrude from the rear arms, this sits loosely over the pair and seems to “flap about” a bit, the hinge pins are kept from backing out by the rear bumper.
Atomic Carbon kindly supplied their new rear hinge pin brace design, in 3mm carbon, this replaces the 'flappy' kit alloy version. The Kit brace can, in some rare cases, fall off the end of the pins and fail to support them, some people get around this by using long shock shafts as hinge pins and place 'e' clips on the end to stop the brace wandering. |
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| The Atomic Carbon brace is bigger than the original and is a tight fit over the pins, it definately supports the pins much more than the original and theres no easy way for the brace to come off during racing unless the back of the car comes off with it. |
The rear Universal joints are completely disassembled and need building including the joint its self, I think there is a technique to inserting the pins into the axel end of the UJ. Losi suggest using a pair of plyers to insert the pins, |
I cant describe the nightmate I had trying to get the first pin in there, pliers certainly wouldn’t shift it. The second pin went in without too much hassle, I think this step would be way beyond most youngsters.
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The plastic yoke on the rear UJ is (off) White and sticks out from the car, again giving the car a trick look to it.
After assembly I noticed both UJ’s were stiff where they pivot inside the White plastic yoke, I tried grease and I tried reassembly but nothing seemed to make them free up.
Note:With some gentle bench running-in, the UJ's were much better. |
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