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The motor is secured and adjusted in the car using a circular plate which is attached to the motor and then slots into the chassis, the motor is offset on the plate so rotating the motor moves it back and forth to adjust the mesh with the spur gear. The mesh can be seen through a small window in the opposite side of the transmission housing, a rubber cover then seals the window to stop debris entering.
A curved plastic strap secures the motor assembly in place using 2 screws, some people swear by the optional Trinity alloy strap, but the motor feels very secure with the kit plastic strap.

 

Using my orion V2 based motor I found I had to solder the motor wires on before installation, being that I never usually solder motor wires on (usually using DEANS connectors on everything, but I'm being neat here!) I’m not sure if this is common, so I had to keep the motor wires a decent length so I could solder it out of the car before installation.

The steering servo as previously mentioned stands upright in the middle of the car, which enables it to reach over the motor and drivetrain. The servo is attached to the main belt cover and a long servo post.

There isn't an awful lot of room left in the car for the remaining electrics, the ESC sits next to the motor and the receiver sits on a specially designed area on top of the main belt tunnel. I used a Novak GTX which whilst being small has a large capacitor, but with a little planning fits in just fine. Bigger ESCs like the top end Tekins or the various brushless systems are a tight squeeze if you want to be able to run the cells in the forward mounting on the motor side.

The cells are saddle pack formation and sit in slots on either side of the belt tunnel, the left hand side has an extra slot toward the front of the car which is to move the left pack of cells forward to adjust balance if needed and gain more steering.
The slots don’t need beveling as the cells already sit as low as possible, any lower and they would protrude from the bottom.
The cell straps sit trapped under the receiver plate on the inside and are pinned down on the combined body post / cell strap posts.
With the chassis being slotted the cells sit lower than on the original (non worlds) car, the inside of the cell strap isn’t pushed down enough as standard, so four black plastic off cuts are provided, these need gluing to the cell straps to fill the gap and hold the cells in properly.
I already managed to throw these away mistaking them for rubbish, but retrieved them from the bin when realizing my error! not a pretty solution.

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