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#1
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Stripped my x6 down recently and noticed that these holes dont line up properly.....
![]() I bought the car 2nd hand, but I am pretty sure the car is built as it should be. If I screw everything together, it makes the motor sit on a very slight angle. I have tried to move the clamp slightly, but no matter what i do, it just doesnt line up... Is this the norm or have I got a dodgy chassis?
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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#2
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It may be an old 3 gear car converted to 4 gear, so when the motor is flipped new holes will have to be drilled by someone who can't drill holes very well.
Or Your motor plate is bent which is quite common due to the flex in the chassis |
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#3
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Doubt it's the plate Lee, it's new... bugger.. looks like a new chassis to make it right then...
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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#4
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I managed to bend my brand new motor plate in less than 1 hour last week at EPR with only very light use! is this normal?
is there a stronger version available, if not i can see this season costing me a fortune in motor plates.
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#5
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There is an optional one, I have it fitted... Cant for the life of me remember who makes it, got mine from DMS though....
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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#6
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Quote:
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Stevie Brew [email protected] http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...hlight=stegger |
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#7
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Cheers stegger... that was really annoying me... lol
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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#8
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I've the same problem with the T-bar??
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#9
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I dont think the t bar is the problem, I think Lee is correct and the person who drilled the holes got it wrong, my car is 2nd, maybe 3rd hand, so it's just down to getting a new chassis I think...
Is your car 2nd hand?
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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#10
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A bent motor plate makes no difference to the handling, we only found out ours were bent at the euros and E and Multiple European A finalist Thomas Cockerill still made the A.
I really wouldn't let it worry you Oh carbon ones don't bend |
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#11
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So am I correct in saying that if I got a new chassis, these holes would be pre drilled?
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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#12
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Yes
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#13
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As lee says that will be the old chassis drilled. Mine was out but again I just tweaked the hole and made it fit....no problems.
All the new squared chassis are bang on for this. One other point to note is that on the new chassis we spent a lot of time making it a lot stronger than the old one in the rear section to cut down on the flex. We had seen the plates bending and I actually ran all year until the euro's with a bent plate ![]() Also it is worth checking the screw in to the T piece mount as it can work loose sometimes, if this happens then the rear of the car will flex and then the plate will be prone to bending more than if it is tight. So on the new squared this should not be such an issue. We also now have some stronger plates which will be standard in the kits, been about I believe for a few weeks now and these are much stronger than the old ones, are better made as well. I currently have a carbon motor plate and that as Lee says doesn't bend at all. The Optimized one I had did bend. So far I have not tried one of the new plates as I don't have any but they are of a stronger material ![]() If you are still worried then the transmission brace is available soon which cuts all the flex out, although there is very little anyway with the new chassis. However this does change the handling slightly so may not be wanted for every track. I have it fitted and have tried it but not actually attached to the battery strap right now, so with reference to another post not all things are needed, just because it is on my car doesn't mean it is connected or in use. E. |
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#14
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Many thanks E. I guess I will just tweak the holes for now.. until I get a squared anyway...
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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#15
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also make sure the t piece is installed in the correct orientation because if its not the holes will not line up and the motor plate wont be straight when its been screwed down
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#16
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Holes tweaked, motor plate is straight now.. no wonder I couldntt get the mesh to be nice and quiet...all sorted now. Thanks a lot guys.
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schumacher procat x Two, one bosscat, one rc10 gold pan, two optima mids, one cougar/club10 |
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#17
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Thanks for all answers!
Quote:
Ooooooooo Carbon sounds Good! Is that a DMS product?
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#18
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#19
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When we built the first X - 6s, we ordered the motor plate from 6061. Unbeknownst to us, the supplier made it from 5056. It was the longest time before we realized the problem. All the 3-gear plates were 5056 and the first batch of 4-Gear plates too.
From about November of '08 on all 4-Gear motor plates have been 6061, and the bending is mostly gone. We simply put it in as a running change, both in the Kits and in the #1232 part. All motor plates supplied with X - 60s and all X - 6 Squareds are 6061. As should be fairly easy to see, the X - 6 motor plate does much more work than the motor plate of a rear-motor buggy. When you think about it, the stress of landing jumps attempts to drive the front of the motor plate down through the bottom of the chassis. But of course the plate can't go down. Therefore, the motor, which is attached only at the motor plate, wants to pivot forward at the other end, and this makes the motor plate want to bend. As I said, the new 6061 plates pretty well solve the problem. Not always perfect -- this is a race car -- but far superior and no increase in price. |
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