The electrics finish off the car, with saddle pack cells at the rear, motor on the right and steering servo, ESC and receiver all on the left hand side to balance things out.

The motor access is limited and fiddly.  The manual suggests the best process to install the motor and pinion.  The main problem is the location of the motor in the centre of the car and the battery post just in front of the motor screws.  Using a ball-ended driver makes things a lot easier but if you don’t have one, the supplied allen key can be used, though this takes longer.

Changing pinions requires the motor to be loosened and pulled back so you are able to slide the pinion on/off  without hitting the battery post.   Again, without a ball-ended driver it is hard to change pinions quickly.

The cells as mentioned are in saddle formation.  I got some of the new cells from Glyn Ward at BRM Motors to try in the BJ4x4.  They are BRCA legal 4000mah matched cells which Glyn imports exclusively to the UK.
The cells need a fairly long link wire to stretch up and over the rear top deck.

The cells are held in place by a carbon strap, which is screwed onto the battery posts.  This really holds the cells into the battery trays very well indeed but is a pain to use in my experience.  Unscrewing the front screws half way, then removing the rears, enables you to pivot the cell straps up and clear of the cells, so you can remove and install the cells, but its not ideal.

Stuart Wood - JConcepts UK Driver - uses a neat method to hold his cells. He has modified the existing cell strap to use one body clip for quick and easy removal.

To make the conversion Stuart has added a washer to the rear posts, and screwed down the provided screws / large washers. The rear of the modified strap then slots over the rear post.

The front of the cell strap is held in place using a body clip through one of the special body-clip hex screws like the Associated B4 uses.

JConcepts provide a transparent protective sheet for the chassis, which prevents wear to the underside of the carbon chassis. The sheet is thick adhesive plastic and should provide decent protection on most surfaces - keeping the chassis looking nice.

Only one sheet is provided so when it wears you'll need to replace it.

The sheet is easy to apply, I used the plastic wheel-nut tool to press the sheet to the chassis leaving no bubbles. Once applied it is easy enough to trim the edges with a sharp knife.

Its a good idea to cut out the motor hole to aid in cooling. The cells are optional, but if you dont cut them out then the cells will stick to the very tacky vinyl for the first few packs.

The body shell for the BJ4x4 Worlds is necessarily bulky, with high sides and a slammed roof.   A menacing looking front window and roof mounted scoop couple with long side windows and air scoops on the side pods.

The shell is definitely among the new breed with little throwback to the classic buggy shape, the shell is all purpose and muscle.  I can’t say it’s a ‘pretty’ shell, pretty doesn’t suit this, it’s more aggressive and purposeful than that. If the BJ4we shell was a dog, it would be a rabid pitbull fighting dog, for sure.

A full set of decals and window paint masks are included but I chose to make my own - just to be a little different. The windows I made are shorter than usual and more agressive looking. The red Jconcepts logo is painted using plotter cut masks.

The shell mounts to the two posts on the front top deck and a rear post which is screwed to the rear shock tower mount. In addition to these - plastic mounts can be screwed to the chassis which will take a small square of velcro, which, when matched up to velcro on the shell makes for an all round good seal.