Pistons are held with a small screw. Don't do what I did and use loads of the supplied red threadlock - they'll be very hard to remove. Bleed screws in the top cap make for easy bleeding. Seals insert into the bottom of the shock body 2 & 3 hole pistons

The 410R uses the same excellent dampers as on the pro-level 410 car. The damper bodies are threaded for easy ride height adjustments and have a bottom-loading seal design.

Two different pistons are included in the kit - a 2 and 3 hole. The pistons attach to the shafts with a small screw that goes directly into the shaft - clamping the piston in place. When building the original car for review, I think I took too many photos and worked too late into the night to remember to threadlock these screws. The result was the screw backing out and the piston falling off mid-race, not good.

Team Durango supply some red threadlock in the kit - but from building the 410R car I'd reccomend against using it on these small piston screws as it's simply too strong - or use it sparingly. I used it - and - well, I can't get the screws back out! oops. I was advised some less extreme blue threadlock (I personally like the Tamiya stuff) would do the job.
I guess you could use the supplied threadlock if you go easy on it - remembering you're just trying to stop the screw working loose. Unfortunately I went nuts and spread it like butter over everything. Never mind.

A similar screw is used for the shock caps' bleed holes. The bleed holes are one way to help get excess air & oil out of the damper to tune it's settings. You can still bleed the dampers in the 'normal way' by loosening the top cap and pressing the shaft in, but the bleed screw is probably easier.

Building the shocks is simple and there's very little work to be done - the pistons needed minimal attention to make sure there was no sharp edges where the pistons came off the parts tree.

Top - a well used damper from the original DEX410 with rubber shock cover. Bottom, the 410R shock is identical apart from the rubber cover.

Like the driveshafts, there are no rubber shock boots included in the 410R kit - but they are available seperately. I personally really like the rubber boots on the dampers as they really cut down on rebuilds, the oil and seals stay in good order for a lot longer than without.

The dampers pivot on steel balls top and bottom - again, a really nice feature that allows you to clamp down the screws / nuts without fear of binding, and they last a long time too.

The manual says to place plastic washers on before the nut but I found it was better without. .

Steel quick-adjust mounts are used at the top of the shocks to mount them to the shock towers. These mounts are in place of the usual long screw and plastic moulding seen on most cars - and as far as we can see are pretty much inbreakable! Large flanges sit against the shock tower for extra support (which also helps strengthen the towers themselves) and a nut locks them down from behind. The mounts can be moved quickly between different holes for setup changes with just the removal of the nut from behind.

The DEX410R uses Losi-type wheel fitment - which is compatible with a good number of electric off roaders these days so using other manufacturers wheels (Losi / Yokomo / Associated / JConcepts / Tamiya - etc) should be possible. The wheels supplied in the kit are.... erm.... yellow. But that flaw aside, they're actually really good wheels. The wheels bulge out around the nut to help deflect impacts away from the axle itself.

The original DEX410's front axles were overly long for the UK's BRCA National width spec. The new CVD's are shorter and Team Durango have supplied serrated low profile nuts in the 410R kit to narrow the overall width of the axles to comply properly with the rules.
The serrated nuts need to be nipped up tight so they 'lock' into the soft plastic of the wheel - loosening them off to remove the wheels can be a bit difficult but at least they'll not fall off by accident.

The DEX410R wheels are great - but a bit YELLOW	Serrated wheel nuts