Previous - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - Next

The slipper is insanely easy to install / remove - we love it.

The drivetrain that was assembled earlier in the build can now be installed in the car.  The slipper drops into the centre bulkhead with ease and a plastic top plate / guard is neatly pinned through the bulkhead to hold the whole lot together - making slipper removal possible in a matter of a few seconds. 

It's a good thing too, since you'll need to remove the slipper when changing cells, though LiPo makes that less frequent possibly.

The front and rear gearboxes slide into their respective bulkheads. Care is needed to line up the drive-shafts into the slipper unit (though you can always remove the slipper and pop in the shafts afterwards) and guide the gearbox casings into the gear-case braces, which keep them at the correct angle.

The gearboxes push into circular braces to help keep them at the proper angle.
Rear gearbox is held in with alloy braces

The gearbox outputs are angled upwards to raise the centre drive shafts above the electrics.





The front and rear drive shafts and axles are again CVD-style, although inverted from those that transmit the power down the centre of the car.  The really unique feature that sets the DEX410 apart from its competitors here are the rubber boots that entirely cover the rear drive shaft's workings, and partially so on the front.  These rubber covers should virtually eliminate dust and debris from penetrating the workings and make maintenance vastly less crucial.

Fitting the rubber covers is pretty straight forward - I installed them all over the CVD-end rather than trying to pull some over the dogbone end which the manual appears to suggest.

The outer CVD joint on the front shafts is the only bit thats 'naked' - you can fit a boot if required we're told, but the reason it's not part of the build is the slight 'drag' that is introduced to the joint by the extreme angles involved in steering. 

Still - it's the rear end that gets the worst of it, with dirt propelled from the front wheels now happily deflected off the rubber booties.

The rear driveshafts have an extra set of holes further out on the axle for assembling the CVD joint in a shorter length / narrowing the track of the rear wheels. We didn't try it out - we don't actually know why you'd want it but maybe someone will know.

Fitting the rubber covers really needs to be done before assembling the joint - the manual only has vague arrows as an explanation of how to fit the covers but I found it was best to pull everything over the CVD-end of the shaft (rather than the 'dog bone' end).  On the rear shafts the outer cover needs to go on small-end first which seems pretty impossible until I realised I could just turn the boot inside out and then pull it back forward once on the shaft - sorted.  Diff end of the drive-shaft rubber covers all sit on plastic sleeves which will push over the out-drives on the diff - keeping the covers in place and sealing everything very nicely indeed.

There's a small but noticeable tension in the joints with the rubber covers in place - so there's surely a small efficiency loss, if it's a concern you can always leave them off.


The front hubs are a vaguely similar layout to that seen on some other cars, like the Losi XX4, Tamiya 501, B44, ZX5 FS, etc.  The caster blocks here are anodised alloy with laser etched logos, nice.  The hubs mount in a more complex way than most cars, with spacers top and bottom (for height changes) and steel top hat sleeves. 

They are a little tricky to put together at first but I opted to slot an allen key all the way through to hold it togehter whilst preparing the threadlock-drenched screws. The resulting hubs are virtually slop-free and incredibly free-moving.  The hubs themselves aren't 'sided' so can be used either side which is nice for spares. 

Alloy caster blocks - lovely.
Steel sleeves and alloy washers - tasty.
I used an allen key to hold it together during assembly.
Assembled hub and caster block waiting for the driveshaft

Rear hubs - 1degree and 0degrees.

The rear hubs are similarly non-sided, so can be used either side of the car, again a good thing for spares.  The kit also includes some 1-degree rear hubs which can be used to add or reduce rear toe-angles (the kit setting is 3 degrees inboard)- these are of course 'sided' and have moulded-in L1 and R1. 

The DEX410 uses the popular Losi wheel mounting method - and can use everything from Losi, Proline, JConcepts and Associated B44 among others. This is a real boon for racers who will likely already have wheels kicking about at home.
Ground steel hinge pins attach the hubs front and rear whilst grub screws in the hubs [rear] / caster blocks [front] effectively capture the pins without any messy little screws or the dreaded 'E' Clips - horrible little things.
The manual does show to file the rear suspension arm slightly before adding the hub, but I didn't see this was needed and left it alone.  With the hubs attached the plastic sleeves with rubber boots attached can slide (with a little pushing) over the out-drives to seal things up.  The sleeves go on without too many problems - they're a bit hard to get off but with the forces generated by racing maybe that's a good thing.

Front caster blocks and rear hubs both use a single grub screw to capture the hinge pin
With the hubs and shafts in place - the plastic sleeve is slid onto the outdrive


Previous - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - Next