Lazer zxr

[oosh123]

Ace. My gearbox design wasnt right so modiying again. The second version should be better and everything should fit perfectly.

I can help if you want me to :thumbsup:

[Welshy40]

I can help if you want me to :thumbsup:

I may well ask you to help with an alloy item for it but as soon as my new design has been finalised my hope is to get it before christmas. I will email you my cad drawings once im happy with it.

[Welshy40]

I may look too stunning. It would be difficult to race it with the thought that I might crash such a stunning thing.

It wont get a scratch as it will be covered by the shell and gear cover so no need worry. I race my zxs proto type regularly so of youve got it race it.

[isobarik]

something came today henrik :)


just waiting on 1 pack and i'll send all at same time...

Damn it looks like I Will be screwing alot :woot:

Thanks ron:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Damn it looks like I Will be screwing alot :woot:

Thanks ron:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

Screwing a lot is great! Just make sure you are the one who is screwing, and not the other way around. :wtf:

[oosh123]

Screwing a lot is great! Just make sure you are the one who is screwing, and not the other way around. :wtf:

I guess my reply is really bad. No one replied in 2 days. :bored:

[londonladliam]

the car is being stripped,the journey has embarked.im opting for new bearings and screws all round.any tips or lists of whats screws are needed?

[Welshy40]

I guess my reply is really bad. No one replied in 2 days. :bored:

Nope, just been a bit busy. Now screwing around with those lovely ladies in Sweden sounds much better than with stainless steel screws hehehe

Anyway, one week or so and I will have another CAD drawing. I have had a rethink and believe this design is much better suited and will look great when built and with blue belts. Once I have sorted the CF side of things then its down to getting a mold made out of plastic and testing.

Friday im finishing off my B2 setting for carpet and is not far off the pace, roughly half a lap so possibly 10 or so seconds off the pace at a club meet and aim to resolve these issues then. Once completed the ZXR is out again for one more blat and hope to sort the cars rear and front issues out and also hope the belt doesnt snap.

[oosh123]

After our designs of the front and rear box design, motor mount, upper deck mounts, belts, pulleys, there isn't really anything you can't buy anymore. The only things that is not custom are the diffs and the arms.

[isobarik]

Screwing a lot is great! Just make sure you are the one who is screwing, and not the other way around. :wtf:

I will keep that in mind :woot:

I guess my reply is really bad. No one replied in 2 days. :bored:

Nope just been busy ....:thumbsup:

Hunting parts special parts

really special special special parts ....:D

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

I will keep that in mind :woot:



Nope just been busy ....:thumbsup:

Hunting parts special parts

really special special special parts ....:D

mvh Isobarik

Anything i can help with for the zxs?

[isobarik]

Anything i can help with for the zxs?

thanks but i have actuyally looked for parts for the cat XLS...

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Ron

Got theme there will be alot of screwing :woot:

If i just can get my middle upperdeck mount from pargu :thumbdown:

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

Ron

Got theme there will be alot of screwing :woot:

If i just can get my middle upperdeck mount from pargu :thumbdown:

mvh Isobarik

glad you got them ok mate, :thumbsup:

pargu is always slow, it took between 6 and 8 weeks for a part i purchased from him

[moth898]

Iso...I just got something blue in the mail....I'm back in manlove with you:wub

[isobarik]

Iso...I just got something blue in the mail....I'm back in manlove with you:wub


Yeah i know they all come back .....:thumbsup:

Glad you liked it .especially now when the JWC is going on not many days left now.

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

glad you got them ok mate, :thumbsup:

pargu is always slow, it took between 6 and 8 weeks for a part i purchased from him

Yeah itt took a while like 2 months but its finnaly here :D the good thing is that now i atleast dare to order some more stuff from him if neaded.

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Merry Christmas to all Lazer owner!!!

[Welshy40]

Merry xmas guys, good racing in 2012

[Welshy40]

Its a shame but Oli is selling his ZXR mk2

http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Vintage-Kyosho-Lazer-ZX-RR-Racer-Roller-Build-with-many-new-parts-/190618938339?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item2c61c62be3

Its stunning and also has some nice shock towers, i wonder who designed them?

[oli4ke]

Its a shame but Oli is selling his ZXR mk2

http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Vintage-Kyosho-Lazer-ZX-RR-Racer-Roller-Build-with-many-new-parts-/190618938339?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item2c61c62be3

Its stunning and also has some nice shock towers, i wonder who designed them?

Nice shock towers indeed :D
No worries James, I still have my other ZXR mk2 ;)

Merry Christmas to all of you guys!

[oosh123]

This may be old news, but for guys own a Lazer ZX-S, look what I found.

http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/item/mh8500_599/mh8510m.gif

For more information, visit http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/eindex.html

They also have a 7075 Aluminum dogbone if interested and some blue anodized parts for the Spider GP-10, which may be interchangable with the Lazer Series.

[Welshy40]

This may be old news, but for guys own a Lazer ZX-S, look what I found.

http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/item/mh8500_599/mh8510m.gif

For more information, visit http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/eindex.html

They also have a 7075 Aluminum dogbone if interested and some blue anodized parts for the Spider GP-10, which may be interchangable with the Lazer Series.

Pity they havent updated their website for ten years, doubt they have any. They dont reply to emails either. Im in need of a set of outdrives for front and rear as they were originally designed for the zxs team atlas car

[oosh123]

Damn, I thought I found something nice.

Just tried their email, doesn't even work. =(

[londonladliam]

Just tried their email, doesn't even work. =(

i have an email for them...

i wanted to order some TF3/4 stuff from them but there basket it on there website is non existent and i think language barriers may appear.

any whoo lazer lovers i need a set of suspension mounts/bulheads/shock mounty things front and rear for a standard ZX not r version LA-14 or LAw-1 or eqivalent

LLL

[oli4ke]

i have an email for them...

i wanted to order some TF3/4 stuff from them but there basket it on there website is non existent and i think language barriers may appear.

any whoo lazer lovers i need a set of suspension mounts/bulheads/shock mounty things front and rear for a standard ZX not r version LA-14 or LAw-1 or eqivalent

LLL

Hi

Suspension mounts plastic
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/LA-30-Arm-Bracket-Set-Vintage-Kyosho-Lazer-/250957998127?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6e43282f

Suspension mounts Alloy
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/vintage-kyosho-LAZER-ZXR-LAZER-ZX-ALLOY-Arm-Bracket-Set-LA-30-/140622443658?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item20bdc0348a

Front Bulk head LA-32
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Kyosho-Vintage-LA-32-Front-Axle-box-Lazer-ZX-ZXR-ZX-RR-SPORT-/190619808741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_123&hash=item2c61d373e5
If you need the rear bulkhead LA-33 let me know I have 1 brandnew available.

Shock towers LAW-1
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Kyosho-LAW-1-Lazer-ZX-FRP-Damper-Stay-Set-Fr-Rr-NIP-/300282313920?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item45ea387cc0

Kind regards,
Oli

[isobarik]

This may be old news, but for guys own a Lazer ZX-S, look what I found.

http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/item/mh8500_599/mh8510m.gif

For more information, visit http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/eindex.html

They also have a 7075 Aluminum dogbone if interested and some blue anodized parts for the Spider GP-10, which may be interchangable with the Lazer Series.


Been down that road ......

and no they dont answer emails.

Bill do you have the link for the site that you bought the jersey from ???

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Hey Guys,

I was wondering, since we have almost redesigned the Lazer-ZX (with Welshy's CF parts, rear gear box and my front gear box, finned motor plate, alloy upper deck mounts, belts and pulleys).

How difficult would it be to redesign or remake the Lazer ZX-S?

That would be a pretty nice project.

[oosh123]

Been down that road ......

and no they dont answer emails.

Bill do you have the link for the site that you bought the jersey from ???

mvh Isobarik

I see their number in their website.

Let me see if I can phone them, for I do speak a little Japanese.

[mr. ed]

I've actually been in their shop a couple years ago.
Most of the old parts were sitting in a bucket, not a big one and only half full.
Then again , I wasn't looking for lazer parts so I may have missed something in the racks

[isobarik]

I see their number in their website.

Let me see if I can phone them, for I do speak a little Japanese.

Seams like ossh got more then one string on his lyre:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Seams like ossh got more then one string on his lyre:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

Whats is lyre??

[Welshy40]

Hey Guys,

I was wondering, since we have almost redesigned the Lazer-ZX (with Welshy's CF parts, rear gear box and my front gear box, finned motor plate, alloy upper deck mounts, belts and pulleys).

How difficult would it be to redesign or remake the Lazer ZX-S?

That would be a pretty nice project.

Dont bother, rear gearbox is sorted and doesnt need changing, front gearbox ive already redesigned the front gearboxes to give more strength. Car is not the best handling on high grips but is perfect in standard form on clay. Oh ive redesigned the rear shock tower mount as thats as fragile as china like the front gearboxes.

[isobarik]

Whats is lyre??

a musical instrument

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

Tried my zx last night and did a lot of changes in practice. I went through an assortment of oils and pistons and springs in practice and as a lot of top uk talent turned up i had to get a good basic set up. I made the A on my first round time as i broke the ball joints on my shock right in the second round, the same happened to the left in the third round and annoyed me as i was putting in a time using silver springs on the rear and being smooth that would have put me fourth, anyway i ended up going to 70wt oil size one trx1 shock pistons and associated red springs (truck rear cut down) on the front. Rear 40wt size one trx1 piston but need to decide between associated silver, blue or gold springs. Im half a second off the pace a lap at club from the top guys so am please using silver but cant throw into the corners as i get major grip roll so have put golds on and cut a bit more off so i can use the middle hole on the rear hub to get a bit more down travel to aid jumping. Im hoping this works. I also opted for the gear diff in the rear and worked well but am unsure how the belt is at the moment. One step closer to a good setup.

[isobarik]

shall snap some pics of the middleupperdeckmount when i have mounted it to the chassi...just had to mention i comes with ball bearings and screws for the belt tension ....

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

shall snap some pics of the middleupperdeckmount when i have mounted it to the chassi...just had to mention i comes with ball bearings and screws for the belt tension ....

mvh Isobarik

How's the quality?

[isobarik]

Moth we are in the final but where are you ???? :thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

How's the quality?

Looks awsome and nice blue collor.

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Dont bother, rear gearbox is sorted and doesnt need changing, front gearbox ive already redesigned the front gearboxes to give more strength. Car is not the best handling on high grips but is perfect in standard form on clay. Oh ive redesigned the rear shock tower mount as thats as fragile as china like the front gearboxes.

Replying to a few day old post.

What I really meant was. I don't have a ZX-S and wish to have one. Is there re-designed or re-makes of parts for me to build one. hehe

[Welshy40]

Replying to a few day old post.

What I really meant was. I don't have a ZX-S and wish to have one. Is there re-designed or re-makes of parts for me to build one. hehe

Ok well Fibre lyte have copied all of my CF items and are listed, as well as Kamtec copying my shell, undertray and gear cover - front and rear gearbox lexan covers are simple to make from spare leftover shell bits.

Blue steering is on ebay, top deck middle mounts are just standard ZXR silver poles, same with the steering poles. Diffs are the same as either ZXR mk1 or 2.

I am unable to get a rear shock tower mount but can supply you with a CAD drawing so you can make an alloy one, plastic is brittle so better having alloy. I may be able to sort you out with a damaged rear top deck mount so you can make an alloy one (I may actually have a CAD drawing of that somewhere as well (a bit like your design for the ZXR). UJs are easily obtainable (aka kyosho ZX5 but ISO can tell you what he used as mine are the original protos)

I can sort you out with a new front gear box and possibly a rear if I have one (may be a damaged one that you can use to make an alloy one) a rear belt (If I have enough spare) but am unsure if I have many front belts. Its a start anyway.

[oosh123]

Ok well Fibre lyte have copied all of my CF items and are listed, as well as Kamtec copying my shell, undertray and gear cover - front and rear gearbox lexan covers are simple to make from spare leftover shell bits.

Blue steering is on ebay, top deck middle mounts are just standard ZXR silver poles, same with the steering poles. Diffs are the same as either ZXR mk1 or 2.

I am unable to get a rear shock tower mount but can supply you with a CAD drawing so you can make an alloy one, plastic is brittle so better having alloy. I may be able to sort you out with a damaged rear top deck mount so you can make an alloy one (I may actually have a CAD drawing of that somewhere as well (a bit like your design for the ZXR). UJs are easily obtainable (aka kyosho ZX5 but ISO can tell you what he used as mine are the original protos)

I can sort you out with a new front gear box and possibly a rear if I have one (may be a damaged one that you can use to make an alloy one) a rear belt (If I have enough spare) but am unsure if I have many front belts. Its a start anyway.

Great!!! thank you welshy! That's a very nice new year present from you to me =)

One request, Can you please help me count the teeth on the belts? are they the same as the ZX belts?

[oosh123]

Ok well Fibre lyte have copied all of my CF items and are listed, as well as Kamtec copying my shell, undertray and gear cover - front and rear gearbox lexan covers are simple to make from spare leftover shell bits.

Blue steering is on ebay, top deck middle mounts are just standard ZXR silver poles, same with the steering poles. Diffs are the same as either ZXR mk1 or 2.

I am unable to get a rear shock tower mount but can supply you with a CAD drawing so you can make an alloy one, plastic is brittle so better having alloy. I may be able to sort you out with a damaged rear top deck mount so you can make an alloy one (I may actually have a CAD drawing of that somewhere as well (a bit like your design for the ZXR). UJs are easily obtainable (aka kyosho ZX5 but ISO can tell you what he used as mine are the original protos)

I can sort you out with a new front gear box and possibly a rear if I have one (may be a damaged one that you can use to make an alloy one) a rear belt (If I have enough spare) but am unsure if I have many front belts. Its a start anyway.

I am guessing the drive shafts, pulleys, hubs and arms may be the difficult ones to find.

[oosh123]

Wow.... I just downloaded the ZX-S evo manual. Seems like this would be an very exhausting project for me if I were to build a ZX-S from spare parts around the world. Some of the parts may not even exist.

I will think about it for a few days.

[Welshy40]

I am guessing the drive shafts, pulleys, hubs and arms may be the difficult ones to find.

Zxr/zx arms, iso knows the rear hub part numbers, front knuckle arms zx or zxr, layshaft gears i know are available and i tested these beauts thoroughly.

[Welshy40]

Great!!! thank you welshy! That's a very nice new year present from you to me =)

One request, Can you please help me count the teeth on the belts? are they the same as the ZX belts?

Different size front and rear LA114 and 115. when i get a chance will look. I will search for the rare items as my sources are superb in finding certain items for me. Its not as hard to build as you think.

[isobarik]

the zxs uses an longer front belt and an shorter rearbelt compared to the zx series of cars.

Btw pargu is youre best/easiest choise for the LAW-20.1 and thats the blue kick up in the front.

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

the zxs uses an longer front belt and an shorter rearbelt compared to the zx series of cars.

Btw pargu is youre best/easiest choise for the LAW-20.1 and thats the blue kick up in the front.

mvh Isobarik

Ebay as someone is making a copy in silver

[isobarik]

Ebay as someone is making a copy in silver

Yeah and thats pargu.......

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

I Actually found everything except the following:


LA102 - A-Arm Stay
LA103 - Bumper Set
LA111 - Gear Cover
LA115 - Rear Belt
LAW112 - Hyper Clutch Set
UM123 - Slipper Pad
UM123 - Gear
and the universal shafts.
Is there a alternative for the hyper clutch set, pad and spur gear?

Up till now, the total is around $680 CDN. Is it worth it? is that too much?

[Welshy40]

I Actually found everything except the following:


LA102 - A-Arm Stay - non existant but i may have a solution
LA103 - Bumper Set - same as above
LA111 - Gear Cover - kamtec
LA115 - Rear Belt - when i have a chance will see what i have
LAW112 - Hyper Clutch Set - on ebay occassional
UM123 - Slipper Pad - associated B2 or originals fit
UM123 - Gear - kimbro fit, as i use them
and the universal shafts. - Iso should know what he bought to fit
Is there a alternative for the hyper clutch set, pad and spur gear? As above

Up till now, the total is around $680 CDN. Is it worth it? is that too much? See comments above .nope its cheap considering only two hundred evos were made and normally go for a lot more. Problem is if your going to run it youll need to have alloy upgrades for the rear tower mount (ive donee a cf version two piecer but isnt cheap) as well as stronger front gearbox casings as they are fragile

[Welshy40]

see comments ive added above. nope its cheap considering only two hundred evos were made and normally go for a lot more. Problem is if your going to run it youll need to have alloy upgrades for the rear tower mount (ive donee a cf version two piecer but isnt cheap) as well as stronger front gearbox casings as they are fragile.


This website isnt the best. No idea why this happened and no way to delete.

[isobarik]

oosh you got PM

mvh isobarik

[oosh123]

Thank you Welshy & ISO for all your support.

But I think I am going to pass on the Lazer ZX-S

It would be too costly for me to get one build (CDN $1000 +/- 100) not including electronics.

But I will be avaliable if you guys wish to get some alloy parts made. =)

Thank you.

[Welshy40]

Thank you Welshy & ISO for all your support.

But I think I am going to pass on the Lazer ZX-S

It would be too costly for me to get one build (CDN $1000 +/- 100) not including electronics.

But I will be avaliable if you guys wish to get some alloy parts made. =)

Thank you.

Oh yeah, cant wait for the rear top deck mount, finned motor plate, pivot block holders and front gearbox. Drool

[oosh123]

Oh yeah, cant wait for the rear top deck mount, finned motor plate, pivot block holders and front gearbox. Drool

Blue kevlar reinforced polyuretherane belts coming next friday. Drool....

[isobarik]

Moth :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Blue kevlar reinforced polyuretherane belts coming next friday. Drool....

I forgot them, yup im drooling even more.

[oosh123]

Moth :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

What's Moth? is it the flying brownish thing that looks like a butterfly? Or does it have some other meaning?

[pUs]

Thank you Welshy & ISO for all your support.

But I think I am going to pass on the Lazer ZX-S

It would be too costly for me to get one build (CDN $1000 +/- 100) not including electronics.

But I will be avaliable if you guys wish to get some alloy parts made. =)

Thank you.

Yeah that sounds too costly. I'm just about to sell a built original ZX-S (not evo, the original with the moulded kick-up) for 300 euros + shipping. Totally original, has been run a few times indoors on carpet with foam tires only.

[rondoolaa]

Merry Christmas to all Lazer owner!!!

merry christmas to you too oosh123, and happy new year to all,

moth is a member,

moth898

i just got out of hospital on wednesday after going in on new years evening during day, had a heart attack and had 4 stents in heart,

makes me wonder if i should have so many cars as nobody will appreciate my cars as much as i do, ( family members that is )

may end up selling a few and buy a laptop or something like that,

gunna keep 1 racing lazer and 1 mint one with nothing but new parts on it

[oosh123]

merry christmas to you too oosh123, and happy new year to all,

moth is a member,

moth898

i just got out of hospital on wednesday after going in on new years evening during day, had a heart attack and had 4 stents in heart,

makes me wonder if i should have so many cars as nobody will appreciate my cars as much as i do,

may end up selling a few and buy a laptop or something like that,

gunna keep 1 racing lazer and 1 mint one with nothing but new parts on it


Take care Ron. No matter how other see your collection of rc, I bet all of us here will appreciate them =)

[oosh123]

Hm.... I wonder if I could combine the Kyosho TF-6 and the Lazer ZX-5 to make a ZX-5 with belt drive.

I like belt drive more than shaft.

[Welshy40]

Anyone got two rear belts they dont need and if yes any chance I could get them by thursday?

[oosh123]

Anyone got two rear belts they dont need and if yes any chance I could get them by thursday?

I think I have the tough racing ones.. Or I can send you 2 used originals as the blue belts coming next week

[isobarik]

merry christmas to you too oosh123, and happy new year to all,

moth is a member,

moth898

i just got out of hospital on wednesday after going in on new years evening during day, had a heart attack and had 4 stents in heart,

makes me wonder if i should have so many cars as nobody will appreciate my cars as much as i do,

may end up selling a few and buy a laptop or something like that,

gunna keep 1 racing lazer and 1 mint one with nothing but new parts on it

Oh that was bad but its good that you are up on youre feet now.

I would say keep em but thets me ...

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Oosh how many set did you get of the blue belts ???

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

I think I have the tough racing ones.. Or I can send you 2 used originals as the blue belts coming next week

I may buy tough racing but am unsure if i can get a quick delivery. Car was superb and was on for pole against a durango c team driver and schumie b team driver until it snapped. Gutted but was amused i was 1.5 secs a lap slower in fwd

[oosh123]

Oosh how many set did you get of the blue belts ???

mvh Isobarik

Lots!! Lets just say with the rate welshy is breaking his, the amount I got may last him ~9 years.

And these are the same quality as kyosho's SP belts. It should not break that easily.

[Welshy40]

Lots!! Lets just say with the rate welshy is breaking his, the amount I got may last him ~9 years.

And these are the same quality as kyosho's SP belts. It should not break that easily.

I think we need to redesign the slipper clutch plates as thats the main issue as currently it doesnt slip correctly, ok better with my spur gear design but isnt enough.

If youd see it go tonight youd understand, it was rapid and was as quick as my 2wd so means if i get it right it will be a lap quicker and that may put me up there within the top 40 in the uk. Fyi my 2wd was stunning and chuffed my lazer was fractionally quicker.

Cant wait for those belts

[oosh123]

I think we need to redesign the slipper clutch plates as thats the main issue as currently it doesnt slip correctly, ok better with my spur gear design but isnt enough.

If youd see it go tonight youd understand, it was rapid and was as quick as my 2wd so means if i get it right it will be a lap quicker and that may put me up there within the top 40 in the uk. Fyi my 2wd was stunning and chuffed my lazer was fractionally quicker.

Cant wait for those belts

So do you want my used ones?? but you need to pay for the express fee.

[moth898]

Moth :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

everyone has their day in the sun:cool:

[Welshy40]

So do you want my used ones?? but you need to pay for the express fee.

No thanks mate, they would snap quicker. This had now made my mind up on this cf gearbox design. Im well annoyed that i may not be able to run it. Zxs will be run and isnt in the same league.

[rondoolaa]

i wouldnt say no to a blue belt for my shelfer or any other mods, front gearbox etc, money waiting ;-)

[isobarik]

i wouldnt say no to a blue belt for my shelfer or any other mods, front gearbox etc, money waiting ;-)

damn boy you wear them out fast ....:woot:

mvh isobarik

[isobarik]

Oosh cant you make an cad new shaft for the slipper you know using kyosho rb5 parts slipper plates, spring and soo???

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

everyone has their day in the sun:cool:

atleast you know have some blue steering did you getv the 5 or the 7.5

and i actually found the missing package ...

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Oosh cant you make an cad new shaft for the slipper you know using kyosho rb5 parts slipper plates, spring and soo???

mvh Isobarik

Yes, I can make a CAD drawing out of anything. But I need the actual shaft to see what the dimensions are.

Making a brand new shaft is doable too, lengthening the existing Lazer ZX shaft, but it will need to be heat treated to make it harden. The minimum order quality for that is 100 pieces. I am afraid I can't consume that much.

[oosh123]

I think we need to redesign the slipper clutch plates as thats the main issue as currently it doesnt slip correctly, ok better with my spur gear design but isnt enough.

If youd see it go tonight youd understand, it was rapid and was as quick as my 2wd so means if i get it right it will be a lap quicker and that may put me up there within the top 40 in the uk. Fyi my 2wd was stunning and chuffed my lazer was fractionally quicker.

Cant wait for those belts

Welshy, I may have a few ideas, how should the slipper slip to be correct? what problems are you running into now?

From what I remember your design of using the B4 slipper pads works, but the only problem I see that is, we are still using the lazer's original aluminum slipper hubs. When using the original slipper hubs, I believe only 1/2 of the pad is used. Why not try to see if the B4's slipper hub would fit (Part numner 9604). From what I see on their manuals, most of the slip pad is covered when it is assembled.

With this, it may be easlier for you to set your slipper to the correct slippage. There are a few advantages when using a larger diameter slip hub: 1. Don't need to tighting the bolt too much as more surface is being contacted on the pad thus less stress on other parts 2. Less wear on the pad 3. More degrees of fine tuning 4. More adjustability.

Worst case scenario is that the Associated B4 slipper hub can't fit on the Lazer. When that happens, I am more than happy to custom make some with blue anodized alloy. If they are not that expensive to make, I can always make them out of Titanium. It is only 6 times more expensive than anodized aluminum, but you will never have to worry about it.

Wouldn't it be cool to see this on the Lazer? Vented slipper hubs

http://www.kyosho.com/common/image.php?id=128220

[moth898]

atleast you know have some blue steering did you getv the 5 or the 7.5

and i actually found the missing package ...

mvh Isobarik


My man Henrik.... I just read through the thread a little more....you had a heart attack!!

Take care of your health my friend....I'd like to have you around a whole lot longer.:thumbsup: Enjoy life cause its too short.

Bill

[alcyon]

Welshy, I may have a few ideas, how should the slipper slip to be correct? what problems are you running into now?

From what I remember your design of using the B4 slipper pads works, but the only problem I see that is, we are still using the lazer's original aluminum slipper hubs. When using the original slipper hubs, I believe only 1/2 of the pad is used. Why not try to see if the B4's slipper hub would fit (Part numner 9604). From what I see on their manuals, most of the slip pad is covered when it is assembled.

With this, it may be easlier for you to set your slipper to the correct slippage. There are a few advantages when using a larger diameter slip hub: 1. Don't need to tighting the bolt too much as more surface is being contacted on the pad thus less stress on other parts 2. Less wear on the pad 3. More degrees of fine tuning 4. More adjustability.

Worst case scenario is that the Associated B4 slipper hub can't fit on the Lazer. When that happens, I am more than happy to custom make some with blue anodized alloy. If they are not that expensive to make, I can always make them out of Titanium. It is only 6 times more expensive than anodized aluminum, but you will never have to worry about it.

Wouldn't it be cool to see this on the Lazer? Vented slipper hubs

http://www.kyosho.com/common/image.php?id=128220
i have designed my own top shaft for my optima mid , and now it uses all the B4 parts for slipper, the plates, pads ,spring, and also spur gear. it works really well, and bestt of all all the B4 parts are cheap and easy to get. perhaps a new top shaft design for the lazer would be a good idea too?

[alcyon]

Guys, i was practising yesterday evening for the coming offraod race next week with my optima mid, which has the B4 slipper parts. The car works great, then after a hard few tumbles, i found my gearbox was cracked on one side. so i super glued the gearbox and retightened it and went for another round, after a few more hard tumbles, i saw that the front end is totally skewed to one side. Before i picked up the car, it suddenly occured to me, the only thing that can cause the whole front end to be skewed is.. you guessed it, a snapped graphite chassis. Picked it up and sure enough i was right. Seems the designers at kyosho made a big mistake. The end gearbox holes for the front gearboxes are inline with the area where the chassis starts to taper. So i decided the only way i can race while i get a new aluminium chassis is to race my ZX-R Mk2. Mind you i bought it a few months ago and still havent run the thing. I looked at the Lazer's chassis and found that kyosho did improve the placement of the front gearbox hole, its well before the area where the chassis starts to taper. Spent a day transferring all my electronics and setting up the suspension and steering linkages to eliminate bump steer. Now i have a little problem. Seems the spur gear is an original one, marked 1/48P 100T. So it must be standard 48P right? The thing is i can only got up to a 23T pinion, but kyoshos manual says i can go up to 25T. How come i cant push my motor more forward? Am i missing something here? Also is the hyperclutch reliable? I think this is the same clutch as the Triumph's. I have not really run the car yet, i can only do so next week a day before the race. I appreciate any advice you can give me regarding setup and durability. Because i am the only guy running a 19 year old car, and i want to make a good or respectable showing. I see many of the newer cars snapping their arms and whatnot. The track is very bumpy at places and even the pros are flipping their cars at the bumpy sections.
Oh yeah, i am using a turbo less Brushless ESC with 10.5T motor, and the race runs for 15 minutes. When i was runniong my optima Mid with gear diffs, i notice that the diff tends to unload especially if landing not completely flat. Its like if i land a bit to the left with my car still on power, when suddenly all wheels toucdown, the car will pull to one direction abruptly. Will a ball diff solve this problem?

[isobarik]

My man Henrik.... I just read through the thread a little more....you had a heart attack!!

Take care of your health my friend....I'd like to have you around a whole lot longer.:thumbsup: Enjoy life cause its too short.

Bill

its not me its ron that had one.

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Guys, i was practising yesterday evening for the coming offraod race next week with my optima mid, which has the B4 slipper parts. The car works great, then after a hard few tumbles, i found my gearbox was cracked on one side. so i super glued the gearbox and retightened it and went for another round, after a few more hard tumbles, i saw that the front end is totally skewed to one side. Before i picked up the car, it suddenly occured to me, the only thing that can cause the whole front end to be skewed is.. you guessed it, a snapped graphite chassis. Picked it up and sure enough i was right. Seems the designers at kyosho made a big mistake. The end gearbox holes for the front gearboxes are inline with the area where the chassis starts to taper. So i decided the only way i can race while i get a new aluminium chassis is to race my ZX-R Mk2. Mind you i bought it a few months ago and still havent run the thing. I looked at the Lazer's chassis and found that kyosho did improve the placement of the front gearbox hole, its well before the area where the chassis starts to taper. Spent a day transferring all my electronics and setting up the suspension and steering linkages to eliminate bump steer. Now i have a little problem. Seems the spur gear is an original one, marked 1/48P 100T. So it must be standard 48P right? The thing is i can only got up to a 23T pinion, but kyoshos manual says i can go up to 25T. How come i cant push my motor more forward? Am i missing something here? Also is the hyperclutch reliable? I think this is the same clutch as the Triumph's. I have not really run the car yet, i can only do so next week a day before the race. I appreciate any advice you can give me regarding setup and durability. Because i am the only guy running a 19 year old car, and i want to make a good or respectable showing. I see many of the newer cars snapping their arms and whatnot. The track is very bumpy at places and even the pros are flipping their cars at the bumpy sections.
Oh yeah, i am using a turbo less Brushless ESC with 10.5T motor, and the race runs for 15 minutes. When i was runniong my optima Mid with gear diffs, i notice that the diff tends to unload especially if landing not completely flat. Its like if i land a bit to the left with my car still on power, when suddenly all wheels toucdown, the car will pull to one direction abruptly. Will a ball diff solve this problem?

Yes the 1/48p is standard 48 pitch its the sopurgear for the kyosho triumph TM-7

When using the MKII the batteries are moved rearward and that means that also the rear upperdeck mount is moved rearwards so there is not as much space for the motor compared to the zx/zxr

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Welshy, I may have a few ideas, how should the slipper slip to be correct? what problems are you running into now?

From what I remember your design of using the B4 slipper pads works, but the only problem I see that is, we are still using the lazer's original aluminum slipper hubs. When using the original slipper hubs, I believe only 1/2 of the pad is used. Why not try to see if the B4's slipper hub would fit (Part numner 9604). From what I see on their manuals, most of the slip pad is covered when it is assembled.

With this, it may be easlier for you to set your slipper to the correct slippage. There are a few advantages when using a larger diameter slip hub: 1. Don't need to tighting the bolt too much as more surface is being contacted on the pad thus less stress on other parts 2. Less wear on the pad 3. More degrees of fine tuning 4. More adjustability.

Worst case scenario is that the Associated B4 slipper hub can't fit on the Lazer. When that happens, I am more than happy to custom make some with blue anodized alloy. If they are not that expensive to make, I can always make them out of Titanium. It is only 6 times more expensive than anodized aluminum, but you will never have to worry about it.

Wouldn't it be cool to see this on the Lazer? Vented slipper hubs

http://www.kyosho.com/common/image.php?id=128220

B4 slipper pltes dont fit due to thete being a hex fitting, meaning a layshaft needs redesigning to fit it. Im hoping Vega are doing area 51 next weekend and will discuss with them to see if they can make me one.

Id like to see more on what exactly was done on the mid tho just to see if we could adapt to use.

[Welshy40]

Guys, i was practising yesterday evening for the coming offraod race next week with my optima mid, which has the B4 slipper parts. The car works great, then after a hard few tumbles, i found my gearbox was cracked on one side. so i super glued the gearbox and retightened it and went for another round, after a few more hard tumbles, i saw that the front end is totally skewed to one side. Before i picked up the car, it suddenly occured to me, the only thing that can cause the whole front end to be skewed is.. you guessed it, a snapped graphite chassis. Picked it up and sure enough i was right. Seems the designers at kyosho made a big mistake. The end gearbox holes for the front gearboxes are inline with the area where the chassis starts to taper. So i decided the only way i can race while i get a new aluminium chassis is to race my ZX-R Mk2. Mind you i bought it a few months ago and still havent run the thing. I looked at the Lazer's chassis and found that kyosho did improve the placement of the front gearbox hole, its well before the area where the chassis starts to taper. Spent a day transferring all my electronics and setting up the suspension and steering linkages to eliminate bump steer. Now i have a little problem. Seems the spur gear is an original one, marked 1/48P 100T. So it must be standard 48P right? The thing is i can only got up to a 23T pinion, but kyoshos manual says i can go up to 25T. How come i cant push my motor more forward? Am i missing something here? Also is the hyperclutch reliable? I think this is the same clutch as the Triumph's. I have not really run the car yet, i can only do so next week a day before the race. I appreciate any advice you can give me regarding setup and durability. Because i am the only guy running a 19 year old car, and i want to make a good or respectable showing. I see many of the newer cars snapping their arms and whatnot. The track is very bumpy at places and even the pros are flipping their cars at the bumpy sections.
Oh yeah, i am using a turbo less Brushless ESC with 10.5T motor, and the race runs for 15 minutes. When i was runniong my optima Mid with gear diffs, i notice that the diff tends to unload especially if landing not completely flat. Its like if i land a bit to the left with my car still on power, when suddenly all wheels toucdown, the car will pull to one direction abruptly. Will a ball diff solve this problem?

Mk2 as iso said has less space so 23 may be as far as you can go unless you use a motor that has a lot of mounting screw holes.

If surface is clay a ball diff will stop bite on corners under power, but on carpet gear diffs packed out with vaseline work superbly.

[Welshy40]

Hyper clutch is a brilliant design and you can use rc10, b2 or b3 slipper pads or cut down a b4 pad. Dont overtighten as the rear belts do snap if using powerful motors. We are redesigning the rear gearbox and once done the layshaft as well. By the time we have finished the car will be hard to beat.

[alcyon]

B4 slipper pltes dont fit due to thete being a hex fitting, meaning a layshaft needs redesigning to fit it. Im hoping Vega are doing area 51 next weekend and will discuss with them to see if they can make me one.

Id like to see more on what exactly was done on the mid tho just to see if we could adapt to use.

yes you are right, the shaft needs to be redesigned. i see this as a better option, rather than designing a lot of new parts, you only design 1 and use standard other parts. attached is CAD thumbnail of my shaft. Notice the inner side is all optima mid, and the outer is B4 with the flat cuts.
Vega eh, is he the guy from street fighter II ?:lol:

[alcyon]

Mk2 as iso said has less space so 23 may be as far as you can go unless you use a motor that has a lot of mounting screw holes.

If surface is clay a ball diff will stop bite on corners under power, but on carpet gear diffs packed out with vaseline work superbly.
Welsh, i tried the vaseline, and i am afraid it doesnt work, after a pack, the diffs feel loose like there is nothing in them. When i take them apart, i find that the vaseline is melted, and turns black. Not only that, some of it oozes out of sides of the diff output shaft.

[oosh123]

B4 slipper pltes dont fit due to thete being a hex fitting, meaning a layshaft needs redesigning to fit it. Im hoping Vega are doing area 51 next weekend and will discuss with them to see if they can make me one.

Id like to see more on what exactly was done on the mid tho just to see if we could adapt to use.


Welshy, the layshaft doesn't need to be re-designed. The only thing that needs work is the thrust plate that is contacting the slip pads.

It's diameter simply just needs to be larger.

If you think the using springs are better than the spring washers then yes, the layshaft needs to be re-designed.

[Skidrow]

Contact me for any parts needed.I will probably be able to help. Will have to put up some info on my Lazer with which I did Petit and Euros 2010 among other events at some time in the near future

[Welshy40]

Welshy, the layshaft doesn't need to be re-designed. The only thing that needs work is the thrust plate that is contacting the slip pads.

It's diameter simply just needs to be larger.

If you think the using springs are better than the spring washers then yes, the layshaft needs to be re-designed.

The issue is bigger than you think. the layshaft is not long enough to fit a thrust race and is where the problem begins. To get a perfect contact with the SC10 slipper pads on my spur gear you need to use the Mk1 slipper plate and hub and due to that the shaft is not long enough for the thrust race, only a spring or in my case the ZX spring washers and its not good enough.

If Manolis (Skidrow) can make a longer shaft to account for this but would need further discussion as the shaft (before the screw threaded area) needs to be fractionally longer as well as the screw section to account for the thrust as well as accounting for a longer spring for more adjustment) then yes this would be great but I do believe to put this car back up there we need to do a rethink on the layshaft design. To give you an idea, in front wheel drive I did 1.5 seconds a lap slower than a fast B team driver from Durango and Schumacher, so imagine what the car could do if I actually had proper 4wd that had a slipper that actually worked. I reckon I would be a second a lap quicker on carpet.

[Welshy40]

Welsh, i tried the vaseline, and i am afraid it doesnt work, after a pack, the diffs feel loose like there is nothing in them. When i take them apart, i find that the vaseline is melted, and turns black. Not only that, some of it oozes out of sides of the diff output shaft.

Im still using vaseline and worked superbly well on friday before my belt snapped. I havent had any leaks but understandably will go black. Maybe a good idea to investigate the Kyosho diff grease then, as they do a variety of thicknesses.

[Welshy40]

yes you are right, the shaft needs to be redesigned. i see this as a better option, rather than designing a lot of new parts, you only design 1 and use standard other parts. attached is CAD thumbnail of my shaft. Notice the inner side is all optima mid, and the outer is B4 with the flat cuts.
Vega eh, is he the guy from street fighter II ?:lol:

Nice, I thought the B4 design was a hex but I guess not.

Vega makes some awesome alloy gearboxes and chassis for the mid motored Kyosho and Tamiya cars that are winning everything in the UK at the moment. Some of the best milled work I have seen, as good as my friend Manolis.

Gearbox redesign first then the shaft, as I need to tension the belt first before I go down the layshaft route. I now am unable to race my ZXR this weekend due to no belts. ZXS time and I am worried as I havent tested this with mini pins rear and staggers front so am unsure how its going to go.

[alcyon]

Nice, I thought the B4 design was a hex but I guess not.

Vega makes some awesome alloy gearboxes and chassis for the mid motored Kyosho and Tamiya cars that are winning everything in the UK at the moment. Some of the best milled work I have seen, as good as my friend Manolis.

Gearbox redesign first then the shaft, as I need to tension the belt first before I go down the layshaft route. I now am unable to race my ZXR this weekend due to no belts. ZXS time and I am worried as I havent tested this with mini pins rear and staggers front so am unsure how its going to go.
Hi welsh. i am with you about the tyres, as i find the current crop Yank Prolines very ugly, they look so square almost like truck tyres not for buggies. I was wondering if there are any modern tyres that comes with inserts, but looks like the old 2.2" tyres from the early 90's. Do you understand what i am trying to say? The older 2.2's were kind of curved in shape and not flat, like the old ZX-R tyres. are there any modern tyres that look like that but perform just as great as the Proline M3's ?

[isobarik]

Oosh you dont have a clue the standard inner hub could easily betaken down to make way for the slotted B4/RB5 slipper plates but the outer part is the harder one my friend has an slipper shaft for the RB SC maybe copying that outer part with the inner part copied from the zxr shaft hm ...shall ask him.

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Hi welsh. i am with you about the tyres, as i find the current crop Yank Prolines very ugly, they look so square almost like truck tyres not for buggies. I was wondering if there are any modern tyres that comes with inserts, but looks like the old 2.2" tyres from the early 90's. Do you understand what i am trying to say? The older 2.2's were kind of curved shape and not flat, like the old ZX-R tyres. are there any modern tyres that look like that but perform just as great as the Proline M3's ?

Unsure as I use schumacher tyres as we race mainly on astro, grass and carpet, and mini spikes are rounded. kyosho still do tyres but really dont know an answer to your question. Sorry.

[Welshy40]

Any Lazer ZX/ZXR owners / drivers in the UK? If yes any one want to sell me a rear belt?

[superdez]

I don't know what the teeth size and length are but I used these http://www.beltingonline.com/3mm-htd-timing-belts-4573 for a few Yokomo YZ 10 belts

All lazer belts are M3

And front belt is 537 mm long and have 179 teeth 3,5 mm wide
rear belt is 177 mm long have 59 teeth and are 4 mm wide.

mvh isobarik http://radiocontrolzone.com/images/smilies/teacher.gif taken from http://radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=94239&page=54

They have them in stock and will do custom widths

[alcyon]

I don't know what the teeth size and length are but I used these http://www.beltingonline.com/3mm-htd-timing-belts-4573 for a few Yokomo YZ 10 belts

All lazer belts are M3

And front belt is 537 mm long and have 179 teeth 3,5 mm wide
rear belt is 177 mm long have 59 teeth and are 4 mm wide.

mvh isobarik http://radiocontrolzone.com/images/smilies/teacher.gif taken from http://radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=94239&page=54

They have them in stock and will do custom widths
if i am not mistaken the tamiya 416 rear belt is 59 tooth ?

[alcyon]

I want to buy ceramic balls for my diff from acer racing, anyone knows the diff ball size for Lazer/Optima/Ultima ?

[oosh123]

Oosh you dont have a clue the standard inner hub could easily betaken down to make way for the slotted B4/RB5 slipper plates but the outer part is the harder one my friend has an slipper shaft for the RB SC maybe copying that outer part with the inner part copied from the zxr shaft hm ...shall ask him.

mvh Isobarik


I am guessing that I really don't have a clue.

Can you please explain to me that what is the main reason for this change? Is it to use the spring instead of the spring washers? If so, are the spring more superior than the spring washers, how?

[rondoolaa]

Any Lazer ZX/ZXR owners / drivers in the UK? If yes any one want to sell me a rear belt?



arnt these ones any good mate ?



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Kyosho-LAZER-ZX-ZX-R-Rear-belt-replace-LA12-/270691876753?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f067e3f91#ht_3296wt_952

or this one in cornwall ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-VINTAGE-LAZER-ZX-LA-13-FRONT-LA-12-REAR-DRIVE-BELTS-USED-/200697654191?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2eba832baf#ht_500wt_1202


is time against you,

ron

[Welshy40]

I am guessing that I really don't have a clue.

Can you please explain to me that what is the main reason for this change? Is it to use the spring instead of the spring washers? If so, are the spring more superior than the spring washers, how?

Sprung washers dont keep to the same tension if set loosely, as its gets looser and its buggered. The spring has more tension and holds it there so you can set it looser but we do need a longer spring to achieve this.

[Welshy40]

arnt these ones any good mate ?



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Kyosho-LAZER-ZX-ZX-R-Rear-belt-replace-LA12-/270691876753?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f067e3f91#ht_3296wt_952

or this one in cornwall ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-VINTAGE-LAZER-ZX-LA-13-FRONT-LA-12-REAR-DRIVE-BELTS-USED-/200697654191?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2eba832baf#ht_500wt_1202


is time against you,

ron

Mate, thanks but the problem is i wont get it in time as its hong kong so need to buy one from someone in the uk so i can get next day delivery. Ive bought two tough racing but doubt it will be here in two days.

[Skidrow]

You can send drawings.I will possibly be able to help. The shaft will come with a finish similar to this found on universal joints,outdrives and other steel Kyosho components. I attach a sample photo of drivetrain components we do.

[isobarik]

I am guessing that I really don't have a clue.

Can you please explain to me that what is the main reason for this change? Is it to use the spring instead of the spring washers? If so, are the spring more superior than the spring washers, how?


Sorry didnt mean it that way.
Translation from my swedish to writing in english doesent match always.
you seams to have an anwser to all the lazer problems so i just woundered if you had an clue to this one also.

mvh isobarik

[isobarik]

if i am not mistaken the tamiya 416 rear belt is 59 tooth ?

That should actually be right :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Note standard belt since the low friction type is 1 tooth shorter

mvh isobarik

[oosh123]

Sorry didnt mean it that way.
Translation from my swedish to writing in english doesent match always.
you seams to have an anwser to all the lazer problems so i just woundered if you had an clue to this one also.

mvh isobarik

Nope, still trying to understand this one. The person who have all the answers are Welshy or you =)

[oosh123]

Welshy, are you able to get your to get your gear supplier to make a 48p-100t spur gear to use with the Lazer ZX-5 or RB5?

If you can, I can take care of the rest of the layshaft. You also need to tell me how you want it with your rear gear box.

[alcyon]

I want to buy ceramic balls for my diff from acer racing, anyone knows the diff ball size for Lazer/Optima/Ultima ?
anybody?

[oosh123]

anybody?

Sorry, I don't own a set of ball diffs for the Lazer. I wish I did.

But I do believe they are 1/8"

[oosh123]

This may be more difficult than I expected. It is easy to design the layshaft. But in order to use the hubs or plates on both size of the spur, we might need new hubs, as the current hub on the lazer zx connects directly to the first pulley.

[Welshy40]

Welshy, are you able to get your to get your gear supplier to make a 48p-100t spur gear to use with the Lazer ZX-5 or RB5?

If you can, I can take care of the rest of the layshaft. You also need to tell me how you want it with your rear gear box.

Yes they will make anything you want but dont quite understand the reason why zx5 or RB5.

[Welshy40]

anybody?

Unsure but am hoping that the guys from rclazy will be at area51 in silverstone this weekend as i will give them the balls so they can list them on their web site. If not i will post next week to them and update all when i know.

[Welshy40]

This may be more difficult than I expected. It is easy to design the layshaft. But in order to use the hubs or plates on both size of the spur, we might need new hubs, as the current hub on the lazer zx connects directly to the first pulley.

Mate your thinking too much, its easier when you put the associated plates into the design. The spur i designed and is being sold now will fit perfectly with those plates so we need to account for a longer spring to be fitted and an attachment that can be designed to fit behind the plate on the flat bit of the layshaft like the plate so the pulley in the box can be turned. Otherwise just adding 2mm to the mk1 shaft and also lengthening the screw end by several mm to fit the associated spring and if possible thrust race then just as good.

[Welshy40]

Ive got to thank rondoola for his help in saving the day for me and has a couple of Tough racing belts that he can get to me before friday so now I can race my ZXR on Sunday. :thumbsup:

Next phase is the rear gearbox design to tension the rear belt so we can stop this happening. Then when done all that is needed is developing the layshaft and slipper system which sounds a big job but in reality is most probably very easy. :D

[alcyon]

i just opened up my front diff and measured the ball size, its exactly 3mm. I also need help regarding kyosho ball diffs. i heard in 1992 kyosho upgraded their ball diff design using seperate diff rings that can be flipped, but still using the same diff outdrives. in order to use these new diff rings, a special spacer was needed to hold the rings. anyone know the part number of these spacers and the rings? Are the rings WBD-4? In the ZX-r Manual, if i am not mistaken, the spacers are marked 59. What is the part number for me to get these spacers? Please do correct me if i am wrong. Lastly look at my Optima MId ball diff pictured here, this is the old diff rings right ?

Also i got a suggestion regarding the Lazer shaft with longer spring. After you make the shaft longer with the spring sticking out, how are you going to cover the nut and the longer shaft? I solved this problem with my B4 optima mid slipper, by reaming a hole on the center of my gear cover, then using a chinese medicine bottle, used a hot knife to split it to the length i want, then insert it into the gear cover, placed some silicon to seal it, then superglued it. The result is a B4 type gear cover, with a tight fitting cap that can be removed to adjust the slipper tension, very useful at the track !

[oosh123]

Mate your thinking too much, its easier when you put the associated plates into the design. The spur i designed and is being sold now will fit perfectly with those plates so we need to account for a longer spring to be fitted and an attachment that can be designed to fit behind the plate on the flat bit of the layshaft like the plate so the pulley in the box can be turned. Otherwise just adding 2mm to the mk1 shaft and also lengthening the screw end by several mm to fit the associated spring and if possible thrust race then just as good.


Maybe I am working off of a Lazer ZX. But if you look at the following pictures:

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot029.jpg

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot028.jpg

Circled in red is the plate that I am concern about. On the Lazer, the part that is circled in red have a particilar spline that attaches to the pulley that I have yet to find out what is it. On the B4, we are missing the spline. Currently, the only easy way is to increase the diameter of the thrust plate on the Lazer to the same size as the B4 (which I have said in a few earlier post) and glue the thrust plates to the hub. It is possible to create a plate like the B4 and have the connecting part to the pulley, but it would cost an arm and a leg. If for some reason, we are thinking about using the locking mechanism from the B4 plate to turn the layshaft, then there will be no need for the one-way bearings in the original Lazer hubs.

All of the things I am talking about is about the Lazer ZX only, I am not sure the difference about the other Lazers.

Please correct me if I am wrong, I am still kinda confused. =)

[isobarik]

i just opened up my front diff and measured the ball size, its exactly 3mm. I also need help regarding kyosho ball diffs. i heard in 1992 kyosho upgraded their ball diff design using seperate diff rings that can be flipped, but still using the same diff outdrives. in order to use these new diff rings, a special spacer was needed to hold the rings. anyone know the part number of these spacers and the rings? Are the rings WBD-4? In the ZX-r Manual, if i am not mistaken, the spacers are marked 59. What is the part number for me to get these spacers? Please do correct me if i am wrong. Lastly look at my Optima MId ball diff pictured here, this is the old diff rings right ?

Also i got a suggestion regarding the Lazer shaft with longer spring. After you make the shaft longer with the spring sticking out, how are you going to cover the nut and the longer shaft? I solved this problem with my B4 optima mid slipper, by reaming a hole on the center of my gear cover, then using a chinese medicine bottle, used a hot knife to split it to the length i want, then insert it into the gear cover, placed some silicon to seal it, then superglued it. The result is a B4 type gear cover, with a tight fitting cap that can be removed to adjust the slipper tension, very useful at the track !


yeah its possible to get those but they come in an set with new outdrives also

wbd-4 are the diff washers.

[isobarik]

Maybe I am working off of a Lazer ZX. But if you look at the following pictures:

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot029.jpg

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot028.jpg

Circled in red is the plate that I am concern about. On the Lazer, the part that is circled in red have a particilar spline that attaches to the pulley that I have yet to find out what is it. On the B4, we are missing the spline. Currently, the only easy way is to increase the diameter of the thrust plate on the Lazer to the same size as the B4 (which I have said in a few earlier post) and glue the thrust plates to the hub. It is possible to create a plate like the B4 and have the connecting part to the pulley, but it would cost an arm and a leg. If for some reason, we are thinking about using the locking mechanism from the B4 plate to turn the layshaft, then there will be no need for the one-way bearings in the original Lazer hubs.

All of the things I am talking about is about the Lazer ZX only, I am not sure the difference about the other Lazers.

Please correct me if I am wrong, I am still kinda confused. =)
looking good oosh

Maybe just cut of the innerplate and make the outer part of the shaft B4/rb5 look alike ...

On the hypercluth they have just macined it down so the slipper new slipper plate fits.

mvh isobarik

[oosh123]

Can anyone answer me why we need oneway bearings inside the hubs?

Isn't it the same as locking the pulleys to the layshaft?

[oosh123]

Anything worth getting with this sell?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYOSHO-LAZER-extra-parts-LOT-optima-ultima-maxxum-/120840966475?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c22aed14b

[Welshy40]

Anything worth getting with this sell?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYOSHO-LAZER-extra-parts-LOT-optima-ultima-maxxum-/120840966475?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c22aed14b

Front gearboxes and rear shock tower mounts would be worth buying.

[Welshy40]

Can anyone answer me why we need oneway bearings inside the hubs?

Isn't it the same as locking the pulleys to the layshaft?

The zx had a bearing slipper and the hub had a one way and was basically 60/40 so the reverse one way was born to make it 50/50. I think you need to base the slipper design on a zxr mk2 design as the hub sections in two parts and makes life simpler as we can make an adaptor to fit the b4 rear plate. Its an idea anyway.

[oosh123]

The zx had a bearing slipper and the hub had a one way and was basically 60/40 so the reverse one way was born to make it 50/50. I think you need to base the slipper design on a zxr mk2 design as the hub sections in two parts and makes life simpler as we can make an adaptor to fit the b4 rear plate. Its an idea anyway.

Yeah!!! welshy! you solved my confusion!

I am working off of a Original Lazer ZX hubs.

I didn't know that the MKII hubs have 2 parts. Is there a part number for it so that I can do some reseach on it?

which manual is it on?

Is this the one you are talking about?

http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/techspeed/zxrrsupplement2.jpg

[alcyon]

yeah its possible to get those but they come in an set with new outdrives also

wbd-4 are the diff washers.
iso, what are the part numbers ?

[oli4ke]

iso, what are the part numbers ?

Rama, The only 2 Partnumbers of those "diff kits" with new outdrives are WBD-1 for the rear and WBD-5 for the front diff.
WBD-2 Is a ball set, WBD-3 is the diff casing and WBD-4 are the 2 pressure plates.

[Welshy40]

Yeah!!! welshy! you solved my confusion!

I am working off of a Original Lazer ZX hubs.

I didn't know that the MKII hubs have 2 parts. Is there a part number for it so that I can do some reseach on it?

which manual is it on?

Is this the one you are talking about?

http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/techspeed/zxrrsupplement2.jpg

Look up retromodelisme (i think thats correct) and find the zxranuals. One has the hyper clutch and if memory serves me correctly LAW12 is the part number but its for the whole unit. I just realised the hyper clutch is on the zxs so part numbers are on the manual on the japanese kyosho web site.

[Ema]

If a day I will be able to build my dream slipper I will start using a 3M 14 teeth HDT pulley bar in order to get rid of both LA11 and the front one way.
Then I will cut the bar at the desired lenght and machine both ends in order to fit the two large bearings.
I will drill a hole in the middle in order to fix the pulley section to the axle with a grub screw.
Obviously the axle that will go inside the pulley section has a end section to fit the B4 slipper ;).

Can you figure out the whole assembly without a cad drawing ?

Here's the link of the pullay bar
http://shop.polybelt.com/3M-14-Pulley-Bar-Stock-Aluminum-PB3M-14-100A.htm

Bye
Ema
P.S. In my dreams the pulley will also be hard anodyzed :woot:.

[alcyon]

Rama, The only 2 Partnumbers of those "diff kits" with new outdrives are WBD-1 for the rear and WBD-5 for the front diff.
WBD-2 Is a ball set, WBD-3 is the diff casing and WBD-4 are the 2 pressure plates.
Oli, the manual excerpt.
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/kyoshonewballdiff.jpg

[Welshy40]

If a day I will be able to build my dream slipper I will start using a 3M 14 teeth HDT pulley bar in order to get rid of both LA11 and the front one way.
Then I will cut the bar at the desired lenght and machine both ends in order to fit the two large bearings.
I will drill a hole in the middle in order to fix the pulley section to the axle with a grub screw.
Obviously the axle that will go inside the pulley section has a end section to fit the B4 slipper ;).

Can you figure out the whole assembly without a cad drawing ?

Here's the link of the pullay bar
http://shop.polybelt.com/3M-14-Pulley-Bar-Stock-Aluminum-PB3M-14-100A.htm

Bye
Ema
P.S. In my dreams the pulley will also be hard anodyzed :woot:.

Interesting, but the one way on this car on high grip at least is a second a lap quicker than a solid layshaft assembly. You can lock the one way easily though with a tightened locknut.

You have given me an idea. How about getting those alloy pulleys with a slot on and make the layshaft in such a way that the layshaft we design locks into it so that in that way we do not need to do that much to make the B4 slipper assembly fit. By doing this design and basically bolting the pulley onto the layshaft this takes that large hub out of the equasion and means that with a long flat section on the remaining part of the layshaft the slipper assembly should fit perfectly into place. Ok we may need to design a section to go through the drive bearing that slots into the layshaft pulley but if we can then this means rebuilding will be easier and the rear drive pulley will significantly last longer due to it being alloy.

[isobarik]

iso, what are the part numbers ?

Wbd-4 are for the diff washers as i call them or...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kyosho-WBD4-Pressure-Plates-KYO97032-/110607182238

preassure plates.

WBD-5 are the new outdrives with T-nut spring and using seperate diff washers ( wbd-4 )

so thats the things that you want

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Rama, The only 2 Partnumbers of those "diff kits" with new outdrives are WBD-1 for the rear and WBD-5 for the front diff.
WBD-2 Is a ball set, WBD-3 is the diff casing and WBD-4 are the 2 pressure plates.

Actually its like this

WBD-1 are the old outdrives

WBD-2 are the small screw and small balls for the thrust bearing the balls for the screw hm ... screw with balls :thumbsup:?? you get what i mean ....for the old style WBD-1

WBD-3 is the balldiff pulleys set for the ultima optima / mid

WBD-4 diffwashers

WBD-5 new out drives called RR using T-nut spring

WBD-6 the screw and T-nut for the WBD-5 new part number are um-121 hard to get

WBD-7 are springs for the WBD-5

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

If a day I will be able to build my dream slipper I will start using a 3M 14 teeth HDT pulley bar in order to get rid of both LA11 and the front one way.
Then I will cut the bar at the desired lenght and machine both ends in order to fit the two large bearings.
I will drill a hole in the middle in order to fix the pulley section to the axle with a grub screw.
Obviously the axle that will go inside the pulley section has a end section to fit the B4 slipper ;).

Can you figure out the whole assembly without a cad drawing ?

Here's the link of the pullay bar
http://shop.polybelt.com/3M-14-Pulley-Bar-Stock-Aluminum-PB3M-14-100A.htm

Bye
Ema
P.S. In my dreams the pulley will also be hard anodyzed :woot:.

Ema, That's what I was trying to say when I asked about the one ways. Permanently mounting the pulleys to the layshaft and forget about the one ways was what I was thinking about too. And of course incorporating the B4 slipper into the design.

[oosh123]

On another topic, these will be available at the end of this week, or early next week. =)

Front and Rear Kevlar Reinforced Polyurethane Belts for Lazer

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/S3M-177-1.jpg http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/S3M-537-1.jpg

PM me if you would like to order a set.

[oli4ke]

Oli, the manual excerpt.
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/kyoshonewballdiff.jpg

Rama, Which part do you mean? Item 59 or 39 the plate holder? (the numbers are hard to read)

If you need a set for the rear you need WBD-1 due to the fact that you need a big black spacer between the plate holder and collar! And the big black spacer is not included in the WBD-5 set!

You can use the pictures in my email as reference.
If you need WBD-4 OR -5 Or WBD-1 ,I have plenty of them. Also 1 WBD-2 ball set available You have my email address right ;)

[isobarik]

Ema, That's what I was trying to say when I asked about the one ways. Permanently mounting the pulleys to the layshaft and forget about the one ways was what I was thinking about too. And of course incorporating the B4 slipper into the design.


yeah i have been thinking about that too just an wide pulley and take it down to 8 mm in the ends for the bearings and then just drill that sucker for the right shaft should be the easiest way.

hm ...where did i put that delrin layshaft

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

yeah i have been thinking about that too just an wide pulley and take it down to 8 mm in the ends for the bearings and then just drill that sucker for the right shaft should be the easiest way.

hm ...where did i put that delrin layshaft

mvh Isobarik

Forget about the delrin layshaft, the torque from the motor will twist your delrin.

I am thinking about heat treated steel or Stainless steel 440C=)

[isobarik]

Forget about the delrin layshaft, the torque from the motor will twist your delrin.

I am thinking about heat treated steel or Stainless steel 440C=)

i was thinking of having the assocated axle go inside the delrin shaft to support and hey i said associated shaft since its way cheaper to get those then the kyosho ones i think its half the price and the slipperplates are like 1/4 ..........

Btw oosh does belts look sex real sexy ....

mvh isobarik

[alcyon]

Rama, Which part do you mean? Item 59 or 39 the plate holder? (the numbers are hard to read)

If you need a set for the rear you need WBD-1 due to the fact that you need a big black spacer between the plate holder and collar! And the big black spacer is not included in the WBD-5 set!

You can use the pictures in my email as reference.
If you need WBD-4 OR -5 Or WBD-1 ,I have plenty of them. Also 1 WBD-2 ball set available You have my email address right ;)
Part 59 oli ,called the plate holder,if i have this part, i can use WBD-4 diff rings.

[alcyon]

Actually its like this

WBD-1 are the old outdrives

WBD-2 are the small screw and small balls for the thrust bearing the balls for the screw hm ... screw with balls :thumbsup:?? you get what i mean ....for the old style WBD-1

WBD-3 is the balldiff pulleys set for the ultima optima / mid

WBD-4 diffwashers

WBD-5 new out drives called RR using T-nut spring

WBD-6 the screw and T-nut for the WBD-5 new part number are um-121 hard to get

WBD-7 are springs for the WBD-5

mvh Isobarik
iso, which bag contains the spacer number 59? is it WBD-5 ? i see only 1 spacer in one bag ?

[oosh123]

Parts can still be purchase on ebay

WBD2 - can be purchase anywhere if size is known

WBD3 for GBP 3.75

http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/Kyosho-WBD-3-Ball-Diff-Casings-NIP-/290388855005

WBD4 for £3.96

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-WBD4-Pressure-Plates-KYO97032-/110607182238?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c0b3a99e

WBD5 for £7.26

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-Ball-Differential-Shaft-Set-Diff-KYOWBD5-/140532873688?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu %3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D300599808393%252 B300599808393%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D55462086 75449978880

WBD7 for £3.95

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-WBD-7-Lazer-ZXRR-Ball-Diff-Tension-Spring-WBD7-/290639311999

[oosh123]

I would also like to build a ball diff for my Lazer ZX. 39506 is too expensive. What do I need to build the original ball diff?

BD-1? or BD-5? BD-7 spring? or BD-2's spring washer like thing?

I need a complete list of part numbers for the ball diff.

Thank you.

[oli4ke]

iso, which bag contains the spacer number 59? is it WBD-5 ? i see only 1 spacer in one bag ?

Below you can find a link of a draw from the rear option house diff (W-0108)
Please use the link and see page below, second diff of the 3.
You can see on the right hand side of the diff housing, first you have to glue the yellow pulley flange on the diff house, second you need the WBD-4 pressure plate then you need the plate holder and at last you have the big black spacer, bearing etc...

http://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=27689&sid=71c56eb8ba71ac3e8bad5306e9f76020&mode=view

The big black spacer that goes in your rear diff house (ref link) is not included in WBD-5 and is only available in WBD-1 bag!
Number 59 2ea plate holders are present in WBD-1 and WBD-5 bags!

[isobarik]

iso, which bag contains the spacer number 59? is it WBD-5 ? i see only 1 spacer in one bag ?

both the WBD-1 and the WBD-5 does incl the plate holder

I would go for the WBD-5 since i have both version and the WBD-5 are better.

I think its still possible to get the plate holders / thrust washers from RW-racing but i dont know if they use the standard diff washer WBD-4 or are going with the stealth diff rings wich was a popular item back in the days.

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

I would also like to build a ball diff for my Lazer ZX. 39506 is too expensive. What do I need to build the original ball diff?

BD-1? or BD-5? BD-7 spring? or BD-2's spring washer like thing?

I need a complete list of part numbers for the ball diff.

Thank you.

LA-1 diff pulleys
WBD-4
WBD-5

some 3mm diffballs of youre choise

If you wanna go a bit special for a display or maybe front diff...you can use the spw-121.01

wich are the same stuff as the WBD-5 but in delrin

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kyosho-SPW121-1-Lightweight-Diff-Joint-TF4R-NIP-/290381940119?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item439c1cc597

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Below you can find a link of a draw from the rear option house diff (W-0108)
Please use the link and see page below, second diff of the 3.
You can see on the right hand side of the diff housing, first you have to glue the yellow pulley flange on the diff house, second you need the WBD-4 pressure plate then you need the plate holder and at last you have the big black spacer, bearing etc...

http://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=27689&sid=71c56eb8ba71ac3e8bad5306e9f76020&mode=view

The big black spacer that goes in your rear diff house (ref link) is not included in WBD-5 and is only available in WBD-1 bag!
Number 59 2ea plate holders are present in WBD-1 and WBD-5 bags!

the big black spacer are for keeping the ballbearing in the right place

and they have replaced it with an aluminum collor/sleave instead

If you look at the pic you will see it just next to the long outdrive silver finish

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-Ball-Differential-Shaft-Set-Diff-KYOWBD5-/140532873688?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu %3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D300599808393%252 B300599808393%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D55462086 75449978880

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

shall snap some pics of the middleupperdeckmount when i have mounted it to the chassi...just had to mention i comes with ball bearings and screws for the belt tension ....

mvh Isobarik

As promised ...........

http://proxy1.pixbox.se/arkivet/synligt_33/32850000-32859999/640x480/32850701.jpg?0

i have just mounted it to the "ema chassi" for photo so i dont know if its the right way. And yes i got the chassi from ema hence the name Ema chassi. All the parts for the belt stretcher is there i have just not mounted them. And the screws are Ron screws :woot::thumbsup::thumbsup:...

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

Below you can find a link of a draw from the rear option house diff (W-0108)
Please use the link and see page below, second diff of the 3.
You can see on the right hand side of the diff housing, first you have to glue the yellow pulley flange on the diff house, second you need the WBD-4 pressure plate then you need the plate holder and at last you have the big black spacer, bearing etc...

http://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=27689&sid=71c56eb8ba71ac3e8bad5306e9f76020&mode=view

The big black spacer that goes in your rear diff house (ref link) is not included in WBD-5 and is only available in WBD-1 bag!
Number 59 2ea plate holders are present in WBD-1 and WBD-5 bags!
Yes exactly ! it should pe part number 3 in these instructions !

[isobarik]

Yes exactly ! it should pe part number 3 in these instructions !

They have replaced it with the aluminum piece instead.

mvh isobarik

[oli4ke]

Yes exactly ! it should pe part number 3 in these instructions !

Yes correct!

[Ema]

Interesting, but the one way on this car on high grip at least is a second a lap quicker than a solid layshaft assembly. You can lock the one way easily though with a tightened locknut.

You have given me an idea. How about getting those alloy pulleys with a slot on and make the layshaft in such a way that the layshaft we design locks into it so that in that way we do not need to do that much to make the B4 slipper assembly fit. By doing this design and basically bolting the pulley onto the layshaft this takes that large hub out of the equasion and means that with a long flat section on the remaining part of the layshaft the slipper assembly should fit perfectly into place. Ok we may need to design a section to go through the drive bearing that slots into the layshaft pulley but if we can then this means rebuilding will be easier and the rear drive pulley will significantly last longer due to it being alloy.

So are you telling me that I'm losing a second for each lap ?
Well, I'm probably not the best driver ever, but at the end of the straight I really feel the need of four braking wheels :woot: :woot:.
Maybe one day I will try the one way ....

Currently my setup on astroturf is:

Front:
- Spring: Associated Blue
- Piston: Associated 3
- Oil : Associated 40 or 45 WT

Rear:
- Spring: Associated Silver
- Piston: Associated 2
- Oil : Associated 30 or 35 WT

Tyres:
Schumacher yellow minipin front and rear.

Bye
Ema

[Ema]

As promised ...........
i have just mounted it to the "ema chassi" for photo so i dont know if its the right way. And yes i got the chassi from ema hence the name Ema chassi. All the parts for the belt stretcher is there i have just not mounted them. And the screws are Ron screws :woot::thumbsup::thumbsup:...

mvh Isobarik

Nice chassis !!!
Would you like to trade it for a pair of bent W5061 ?
You can put them in your lazer without the straight W5061 you sent me for the chassis ...... :woot:

Apart from kidding, let us know if the pargu part is enough to get the right tension on the belt .... obviously when you get some little more parts over the chassis ;) .

Bye
Ema

[Welshy40]

So are you telling me that I'm losing a second for each lap ?
Well, I'm probably not the best driver ever, but at the end of the straight I really feel the need of four braking wheels :woot: :woot:.
Maybe one day I will try the one way ....

Currently my setup on astroturf is:

Front:
- Spring: Associated Blue
- Piston: Associated 3
- Oil : Associated 40 or 45 WT

Rear:
- Spring: Associated Silver
- Piston: Associated 2
- Oil : Associated 30 or 35 WT

Tyres:
Schumacher yellow minipin front and rear.

Bye
Ema

Interesting setup, not far off mine at all but softer so will be rather good on Astro.

On carpet I went up to red cut down truck rear springs on the front and Gold cut down truck springs on the rear with roll bar on the back (standard one) and use 70 front Number 1 piston and 45 number 1 piston rear. Car is much more stable on the corners and after cutting the mini pins down (two rows off the inner front and one row off the outer) I can throw the car in the corner. Still needs tweaking but I did find that the car was much quicker with the one way as with a full on 4wd the car tended to not make the apex at speed and made the lap times slower.

[Welshy40]

OK so here is my idea on what is needed for the layshaft. Fair enough this is a mix mash of drawings I have copied and pasted but you can see my madness in here.

Idea is to use associated thrust race, bearing, spring, slipper plates and pads with my spur gear. I have added the bottom section of the hyperclutch and having a slot cut into the B4 back part of the plate so it locks into this hyperclutch part. If this is possible then the costs should be minimal except for the cost of a new layshaft.

Whats your opinion on this?

[oosh123]

Just to answer everybody's question about the belts.

They will be selling for USD $25+shipping a set. I am only going to sale them as a set instead of individually.

I will start taking orders after I have received and examine them.

cheers

[oosh123]

OK so here is my idea on what is needed for the layshaft. Fair enough this is a mix mash of drawings I have copied and pasted but you can see my madness in here.

Idea is to use associated thrust race, bearing, spring, slipper plates and pads with my spur gear. I have added the bottom section of the hyperclutch and having a slot cut into the B4 back part of the plate so it locks into this hyperclutch part. If this is possible then the costs should be minimal except for the cost of a new layshaft.

Whats your opinion on this?

I don't have the hyper clutch. I think I will keep on working on my alloy pulley, and try to find the hyper clutch hub.

[oosh123]

As promised ...........

http://proxy1.pixbox.se/arkivet/synligt_33/32850000-32859999/640x480/32850701.jpg?0

i have just mounted it to the "ema chassi" for photo so i dont know if its the right way. And yes i got the chassi from ema hence the name Ema chassi. All the parts for the belt stretcher is there i have just not mounted them. And the screws are Ron screws :woot::thumbsup::thumbsup:...

mvh Isobarik

Does the belt tensioner actually work?

[Welshy40]

I don't have the hyper clutch. I think I will keep on working on my alloy pulley, and try to find the hyper clutch hub.

Go for it. When I figure it out and get the quality that I want I will sort you out with a layshaft and adaptor.

[oosh123]

I think this would work for people who don't have the hub for the hyper clutch.

Just imagine the springs, nuts, bearing, and the set screws that holds the pulley is there.

Just a reminder: nothing is to scale.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/Drive.jpg

[isobarik]

Does the belt tensioner actually work?

I have been thinking the same :thumbsup: I thought it looked good and i neaded one so i bought one...

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

I think this would work for people who don't have the hub for the hyper clutch.

Just imagine the springs, nuts, bearing, and the set screws that holds the pulley is there.

Just a reminder: nothing is to scale.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/Drive.jpg

It looks awsome oosh keep up the good work

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Looks good. I see no one way at all can be used. Still I like the idea of grub screws on the LA11 pulleys.

[oosh123]

Looks good. I see no one way at all can be used. Still I like the idea of grub screws on the LA11 pulleys.

Don't need one way bearing on this design. It's 4 wheel drive or brake all the time. Just what Ema wanted. And no hyper clutch hard to find parts (mainly for myself). Pulleys are off the shelf parts and wayyy cheaper than reproducing LA-11 using aluminum (Wayyyy less machining).

The only part that need more attention to is the layshaft. Heat treat, Roll steel, or hard stainless steel would be the best.

I will do some stress analysis on the layshaft to see what diameter is ideal.

[kek23k]

oosh, I think what Welsh was saying was that if possible it would be better to retain the front one-way as the car handles/drives a lot better with this on.

[oosh123]

oosh, I think what Welsh was saying was that if possible it would be better to retain the front one-way as the car handles/drives a lot better with this on.

The only downfall I see from this comparing to the 50/50 one way bearing setting is that. When you slowing down from an acceleration, there will be more drag (slows down faster) from the tension of the belts and the motor to the spur/slipper pad, whereas the 50/50 have drage only from the motor to the spur/slipper pad. But you can set your drag with your ESC, can't you?

In other perspective, during acceleration, it will act the same. And It will also have a reverse option, whereas the 50/50 setting have none.

[Welshy40]

If the hub is solid, or in my case when using the ZX hub I use the reverse one way so no drag and as it was only a one way in reverse it was basically a permanent froward only drive hub. When I accelarate both belts get tighter (the front more but does move up and down a lot if loose which is good), and when I stop the throttle the front belts just drops and goes sloppy and the rear is taughter but does kindof have the same effect. Drag is a minimal effect and will be identical in the permanent 4wd system

If the belts are not over tightend the car runs freely on the bearings and is no different from having a permanant 4wd as the tension will be the same under or off power. This car works better with a looser front belt, and is also more efficient as well. This is also a very free running platform (more freeer than a lot of current cars out there) so kindof helps us.

The front one way doesnt cause any drag issues at all, well not what I have noticed anyway. It aids the car in and out of corners and is easier to drive with it. However on clay and low grip I do see this being beneficial with a locked 4wd system. Dont forghet in the current form you just tighten the one way and its totally 4WD

Dont get me wrong I really like your design, maybe the easier alternative is to get two one way bearings for the front diff but am unsure if that would actually work the same way as the front and rear pulleys may be on the same layshaft but work to their own agenda so means more freedom to the front.

I did notice and possibly you have already but you have also got to design an end stop as if you design this as it is how are you going to hold the other bearing into place like the current one way does?

Sorry, load of things going on in my mind about this and we are on the right track but like with all designs we need to flatten out the issues to get this right before we go and get this made up.

[oosh123]

Well, I will wait for your design, and possibly have the alloy la-11 ready to match your design.

[Welshy40]

Did you see the pictures?:thumbsup:

[oosh123]

Did you see the pictures?:thumbsup:


Yea! I like the one with you kneeling in the middle :lol:

[Welshy40]

Yea! I like the one with you kneeling in the middle :lol:

They took off the one with my hands on them

[isobarik]

Oosh on the link that i supplied earlier the superijcon shop they had the alu pulley in alu with an oneway inside.

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Sorry I think I missed that link. Can you give it to me again??

[isobarik]

Sorry I think I missed that link. Can you give it to me again??

http://www.super-rc.com/index.php?cPath=24_153_157

also the la-116 are still avaliable but expensive....

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

Guys , yesterday was the last day for practice the race was today. i faced some problems with my ZX-R MkII. I set the slipper loose to make the car easier to drive, but it was wayy too slow, so i figured i set the slipper too loose. i tightened the slipper and tried the car again, this time it was better but still it was kinda slow in top speed, then i noticed something rather odd in the very loose sections. when i punched the gas, it was as if the front wheels were the only ones driven ! no wonder the car was slow to launh of the line. The other problem i had was everytime i took a hard landing the rear hingepins dislodged it self(both of them) from the arm braces , which are original plastic. Keep in mind the arm braces are not cracked or damaged in any way and they are not loose either. Overall the car was ok, but becuase of these 2 reliability issues which i beleive i cant fix on time, i quickly switch back to my optima mid (with full lazer suspension) since i received a replacement aluminium chassis on friday. i am bit perplexed about the front wheels are getting more drive than the rears, because as far as i know the ZX-R does not have a torque splitter ?


The race today went rather ok, in field of 15 cars, mine being the oldest, i qualified 11th, which placed me at the top of the B. I also drove very slowly to avoid accidents and it paid off. Not bad for a 23 year old car. There was another vintage car in the race, a 93 bosscat, which was behind me. In the final the durango i beat in qualifying took the top spot and i ended up second, and the bosscat 3rd.
Question to ask you welshy, are the big bore shocks really that good? The reason i asked is i see all the top guys are using them, all the A finalists, who drove the Kyosho FS2, Durango DEX410,and Yokomo B-Max4, all had big bore shocks. I asked one of the drivers about them and he says it helps with big landlings and also the rough surfaces. I understand you race on smooth turf, but on rough outdoors bumpy conditions, is it worth the money to go big bore? You were right about the 3 racing shocks being inferior to kyosho golds. i switched to golds all around and my MID was easier to drive, but i was still having issues with the bumpy surface with my car bouncing.
i Talked to another durango guy (non sponsored) and he said that he drove a B44.1 and the car was pretty bad on bumpy tracks becuase the suspension isnt up to it. He kept saying how great the durango suspension is compared to the B44.1 (in effect he was also saying it was better than the Lazers). Question is , what is your opnion about the durango suspension system, and is the ZX's suspension just as good on low traction and very bumpy surfaces? When i say bumpy surfaces i mean tree roots, really !

[Welshy40]

You get peoples opinions all the time. Once you find your set up you will show them what this car is capable of.

I would check your diffs are taught and are not slipping. Slipper if using brushed motor set it so it slips when you hold it down on the surface your racing on where its fighting the slip and its set. If using brushless we havent redesigned the layshafts yet, one for total 4wd and one with one way. The current slipper cant handle the brushless power.

Also check your rear belt as it may have snapped hence why your seeing front wheels rotating more.

[oosh123]

Welshy,

I am bored and rc season won't start for a couple of months (no indoor tracks here). How are you doing with your rear gear box? Can I help?

[alcyon]

You get peoples opinions all the time. Once you find your set up you will show them what this car is capable of.

I would check your diffs are taught and are not slipping. Slipper if using brushed motor set it so it slips when you hold it down on the surface your racing on where its fighting the slip and its set. If using brushless we havent redesigned the layshafts yet, one for total 4wd and one with one way. The current slipper cant handle the brushless power.

Also check your rear belt as it may have snapped hence why your seeing front wheels rotating more.
Welshy, the diffs are fine and not slipping for sure. i am using brushless but its only a 10.5T wihtouht boost or turbo, it was pretty mild compared to other cars with their 6.5T motors. in fact i beat a brand new Yokomo B-Max4 at the race becuase my car was simply more controllable. What are your thoughts about the big bore shocks and how to stop bouncing ?
to have a look at the surface of the track, click on this link. You also will spot me in there, just find the guy with the optima mid, and look at my shirt too ! did you notice how the durango arms are angled like a 1940s WWII plane? does it increase the arms travel like the Durango guy said?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/malaysian-r-c-racers/583857-coconut-tree-challenge-january-2012-1-10-off-road-rc-planet-ss19-4.html

[oosh123]

Boored. Very bored. I guess I am going to model the A-arms and see how much they are to be made with titanium. Tougher than aluminum and the car might look too blue if I anodized them blue as well.

[Welshy40]

Welshy,

I am bored and rc season won't start for a couple of months (no indoor tracks here). How are you doing with your rear gear box? Can I help?

If you want to you can draw it up. We only need the one full side in 2d cad.

[Welshy40]

Well what can I say but I drove like a spanner this weekend. The track had a lot less grip than I was expecting and had set both of my cars up for high grip on new carpet, and didnt really work well. I couldnt really be bothered to change my settings so just drove it badly and made 91st out of 140 odd drivers so a bit crap, however wasnt a dissapointment considering how old the car is.

4wd - ok well fronm the very start I had interferance and is really down to the organisers not thinking correctly and instead of leaving me on my preferred frequency they changed it and put it closer to the openents in my race, not bright are they. So from the go I got interferance when the first car took off, when I got underway I was on for a lap time that would have put me bang in the middle of the event with a mid range 12 lapper but on the fourth lap just when i was leading the round I joined the straight and no longer had control over my car so it went flat out into the brick wall at the end of the straight. I didnt break any Kyosho plastic or kevlar item, the only thing that broke was my chassis and top deck and bent my blue alloy rear of the front gearbox pivot block so that was my event finished, and a bit gutted considering I was on the pace for a reasonable finals place. I had to take my ZXS out and bung my stuff in, only to find in the second round my king pins came out and struggled to keep it on the track as it didnt handle with mini pins attached. third round and this time my knuckle arm totally disconnected from the car when I was doing rather well in the round. Fourth I lowered the rear, added my front wishbones with teamline hubs from my ZXR onto my ZXS as that woundnt fall apart and lowered the front. Car went better and I finished but wasnt enough. I also found the diff in the rear had seized (Iit was due a rebuild hence why I had stopped using it) so I took my rear diff out of my ZXR for the finals. I didnt check to see if it was tight enough and in the final I had zero speed and the rear diff slipped big time so game over. Not the best performance I have ever had but I did have fun.

Still I have realised that the ZXR does need the gearbox redesigned as the ZXS had a 4.5 in it and was ballistic down the straight, to give you an idea an oponent in front (who did beat me overall) in my race was over a quarter down the straight with a Predator before I was on there and I not only caught him at the end of the straight but passed him on the corner. The belt didnt snap and I had the slipper clutch tightend right up, and the belt is still going strong so tensioners are now a must and are needed to put this car back into the game.

[oosh123]

Well what can I say but I drove like a spanner this weekend. The track had a lot less grip than I was expecting and had set both of my cars up for high grip on new carpet, and didnt really work well. I couldnt really be bothered to change my settings so just drove it badly and made 91st out of 140 odd drivers so a bit crap, however wasnt a dissapointment considering how old the car is.

4wd - ok well fronm the very start I had interferance and is really down to the organisers not thinking correctly and instead of leaving me on my preferred frequency they changed it and put it closer to the openents in my race, not bright are they. So from the go I got interferance when the first car took off, when I got underway I was on for a lap time that would have put me bang in the middle of the event with a mid range 12 lapper but on the fourth lap just when i was leading the round I joined the straight and no longer had control over my car so it went flat out into the brick wall at the end of the straight. I didnt break any Kyosho plastic or kevlar item, the only thing that broke was my chassis and top deck and bent my blue alloy rear of the front gearbox pivot block so that was my event finished, and a bit gutted considering I was on the pace for a reasonable finals place. I had to take my ZXS out and bung my stuff in, only to find in the second round my king pins came out and struggled to keep it on the track as it didnt handle with mini pins attached. third round and this time my knuckle arm totally disconnected from the car when I was doing rather well in the round. Fourth I lowered the rear, added my front wishbones with teamline hubs from my ZXR onto my ZXS as that woundnt fall apart and lowered the front. Car went better and I finished but wasnt enough. I also found the diff in the rear had seized (Iit was due a rebuild hence why I had stopped using it) so I took my rear diff out of my ZXR for the finals. I didnt check to see if it was tight enough and in the final I had zero speed and the rear diff slipped big time so game over. Not the best performance I have ever had but I did have fun.

Still I have realised that the ZXR does need the gearbox redesigned as the ZXS had a 4.5 in it and was ballistic down the straight, to give you an idea an oponent in front (who did beat me overall) in my race was over a quarter down the straight with a Predator before I was on there and I not only caught him at the end of the straight but passed him on the corner. The belt didnt snap and I had the slipper clutch tightend right up, and the belt is still going strong so tensioners are now a must and are needed to put this car back into the game.

Bummer, but consider your unfortunate event (wrong setup, frequency, loose diff, etc, etc) and still finish 91st. I think its pretty well done.

[oosh123]

One down, One to go.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/FrontArm2.jpg http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/FrontArm1.jpg

[isobarik]

Looking good oosh as usually......

should be looking awsome in alloy...

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Looking good oosh as usually......

should be looking awsome in alloy...

mvh Isobarik

I am thinking about Titanium. Alloy may be too soft, it may distort during impact.

Cost of Titanium isn't that much more than Aluminum.

[isobarik]

Got lots of titanium at work ..:thumbsup:
its not in sheets:thumbdown:

only good for putting in the ladel...( spelling )

But i have an worn RB5 layshaft coming my way the gear is worn but i will have that taken of so i dint think thats an problem. okay i have to get those expensive kyosho slipper plates but atleat im not paying for the layshaft so i will try to make it fit.

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Got lots of titanium at work ..:thumbsup:
its not in sheets:thumbdown:

only good for putting in the ladel...( spelling )

But i have an worn RB5 layshaft coming my way the gear is worn but i will have that taken of so i dint think thats an problem. okay i have to get those expensive kyosho slipper plates but atleat im not paying for the layshaft so i will try to make it fit.

mvh Isobarik


You got titanium at work?

[oosh123]

All done. Off to get a quote.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/RearArm2.jpghttp://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/RearArm1.jpg

[isobarik]

All done. Off to get a quote.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/RearArm2.jpghttp://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/RearArm1.jpg

Looking good oosh ......

i work at an steel mill

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Looking good oosh ......

i work at an steel mill

mvh Isobarik

Do you have CNC machines there? Can you make these for us?? :thumbsup:

[oosh123]

Muhahhaha! Blue belts are at hand. They look superb to me. I am going to fit it in my car tonight before I take any orders.

[isobarik]

Do you have CNC machines there? Can you make these for us?? :thumbsup:
email me ....

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

email me ....

mvh Isobarik

I only have the 3d model now. can you work off of that? or do you need drawings?

[Welshy40]

Anyone looking for some motors (Nosram X12 5.5 with Ceramic Bearings and Nosram X12 6.5)

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?p=608366#post608366

[isobarik]

I only have the 3d model now. can you work off of that? or do you need drawings?

I work at an steel mill and yes we have cnc machines at work but its not what i do at work but if get some drawings so they just can program the machine i think that i can have some one at work to do it.

mvh Isobarik

[moth898]

Muhahhaha! Blue belts are at hand. They look superb to me. I am going to fit it in my car tonight before I take any orders.

Ummm...oosh I think iso has the patent on muhaha:D

[oosh123]

Ummm...oosh I think iso has the patent on muhaha:D

ohh.. haha I should change it to kakakakaka then =)

[oosh123]

OMG!!! They Fit!!!

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/WP_000399.jpg http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/WP_000400.jpg http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/WP_000401.jpg

I am selling them @ CDN $25/Set (Front & Rear Belts) + Shipping. Currently Shipping is undetermine yet. But I will know right after I ship Welshy's set tomorrow.

If you are interested. Please PM me again.

[isobarik]

Im upp for a set

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

WOW!!! Blue bling big time, and is a perfect match for the steering. OK now ive got to get all in blue. Im going to ask if Fibrelyte can do a blue tint on the CF top deck and chassis.:thumbsup:

[oosh123]

WOW!!! Blue bling big time, and is a perfect match for the steering. OK now ive got to get all in blue. Im going to ask if Fibrelyte can do a blue tint on the CF top deck and chassis.:thumbsup:

It's not just bling. :lol:

The belts should be better than the original belts and the tough racing belts.

[oosh123]

Shipping fee for the belts is $5 CDN =)

[Champ85]

oosh, the rear belt seems a bit loose in the pic. Is that just because half of the gear case is removed so the shafts are pulled towards each other creating the slack? If the length is the same as the original, it has to fit, right? :)

[oosh123]

Yes, it is the same length as the original.

And you are correct it look sloppy, that is only because the rear gear box and the layshaft is not fully assembled.

That picture is taken only so that other people can look inside. when everything is assembled, there is no way of taken a good picture of the rear belt. mmm... unless I have Welshy's new rear gear mount. :woot:

[Welshy40]

Yes, it is the same length as the original.

And you are correct it look sloppy, that is only because the rear gear box and the layshaft is not fully assembled.

That picture is taken only so that other people can look inside. when everything is assembled, there is no way of taken a good picture of the rear belt. mmm... unless I have Welshy's new rear gear mount. :woot:

Im testing and developing as we speak. Ive already cut down a rear gearbox and am now in the process of getting the right spacing to get it the correct width and then will put the tensioners on once I have decided where they should go. I will post pictures when I am happy with it.

[isobarik]

Talked to un guy in sweden that has done alot of hours in the 416 since that belt fits the lazer i just wanted to know how long it lasted and he said that maybe 2-3 packs with the thightness as per manual but if you tighten it, it will last a lot longer he did DHI cup and 2 ETS races some practise and the swedish cup one the same belt.

Okay i know its touring but ....same principle ....stretch that sucker ...:woot:

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Talked to un guy in sweden that has done alot of hours in the 416 since that belt fits the lazer i just wanted to know how long it lasted and he said that maybe 2-3 packs with the thightness as per manual but if you tighten it, it will last a lot longer he did DHI cup and 2 ETS races some practise and the swedish cup one the same belt.

Okay i know its touring but ....same principle ....stretch that sucker ...:woot:

mvh Isobarik

Front belt works better if looser, also more efficient but the back has to be tensioned but when im done with it the belt wont be overly tight.

[BORMAC]

I've been watching this thread on and off for what seems forever. I dont get a chance to read everything so I wanted to ask a couple of questions to you gentlemen.

I have just taken my ZX out of retirement and your projects have me wanting to get stuck into mine. I already have the slipper, the blue steering parts and a set of those super diffs. Im ready to get this baby going and need to search out a new bodyshell as the one I have seems to be an older TBG shell and although still clear it is a low quality form. Im sticking with the ZX style lexan and wanted to ask where I should go to search out a better example now days? Obviously ALL repro shells shrink so can anybody recommend who is making the best example at the moment.

Also, where can I find a new gear cover?

[isobarik]

Loose front belt i´ll say it up how you want the front to engage...

mvh isobarik

[isobarik]

Also, where can I find a new gear cover?

TBG but they seams to be a bit on the small side ...if you want an original you just have to ask or check ebay .

I have an new racecraft/tech shell but since i have the TBG i dare to take it out since then i just might be even more dissapointed.

mvh Isobarik

[kek23k]

I've been watching this thread on and off for what seems forever. I dont get a chance to read everything so I wanted to ask a couple of questions to you gentlemen.

I have just taken my ZX out of retirement and your projects have me wanting to get stuck into mine. I already have the slipper, the blue steering parts and a set of those super diffs. Im ready to get this baby going and need to search out a new bodyshell as the one I have seems to be an older TBG shell and although still clear it is a low quality form. Im sticking with the ZX style lexan and wanted to ask where I should go to search out a better example now days? Obviously ALL repro shells shrink so can anybody recommend who is making the best example at the moment.

Also, where can I find a new gear cover?

Bormac, why dont you go for one of the Parma Tomcat repro bodies that Welshy had made. I think they are an awesome body, improving on the ZXR shell and way better than the awful ZX shell. Just my opinion obviously! :Dx

[BORMAC]

Thanks for the suggestions guys but I really want the genuine ZX bodyset. I know its not to everyones taste but I want this car to resemble that of the earliest Lazer.

[oosh123]

Thanks for the suggestions guys but I really want the genuine ZX bodyset. I know its not to everyones taste but I want this car to resemble that of the earliest Lazer.

I was looking for a orignial lazer body set for the past year. All I could found was a well used one and painted.

I actually bought the James Instone version of the chassis from fibrelyte and was able to fit a lazer zx-5 body on.

Anyways, I wish you luck on finding a genuine lazer body set. BTW Kamtec does not make one.

[BORMAC]

Finding a new factory genuine ZX bodyset will be more of a pipe dream for me. I just want to know who is making the ZX bodyset and who makes the better form. Happy with a repro but it needs to be descent.

Any suggestions?

[oosh123]

Finding a new factory genuine ZX bodyset will be more of a pipe dream for me. I just want to know who is making the ZX bodyset and who makes the better form. Happy with a repro but it needs to be descent.

Any suggestions?

Currently, I think only TBG sells it.

[Champ85]

Yeah, unfortunately Marwan hasn't made a ZX body yet so I think TBG is it. But he has the decals for it.
www.marwanrc.com

[BORMAC]

I have been looking up TBG but he hasn't got any listings that I can see. Is there an email address for John somewhere?

[oosh123]

Since I can't bid at these auction because I live in Canada.

Maybe some of you may want to....

http://myworld.ebay.com/jinferno10/&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2754

This guy is selling zx-r body set, gear cover, front and rear ball diff, and a hyperclutch :drool:

[Welshy40]

Kamtec i thought used to sell the zx shell and undertray.

[BORMAC]

Keith does the ZXS but I can't see the ZX anywhere.

[Welshy40]

I will chase him monday and find out.

[knmtrip3]

Here are my 2 Lazer ZX's with kamtec's Tomcat bdyshell and TBG's ZXR undertray.

[rondoolaa]

Here are my 2 Lazer ZX's with kamtec's Tomcat bdyshell and TBG's ZXR undertray.



Nice :woot:

[kek23k]

Here are my 2 Lazer ZX's with kamtec's Tomcat bdyshell and TBG's ZXR undertray.

Very cool! :Dx

[Welshy40]

Guys,

Ive been a bit busy and this is my design idea. OK its a starting point and have at the moment three bearings on it, one at the very bottom just in front of the top of the diff, one slightly higher than that and another at the top just above the layshaft gear so keeping the tension in the right places. This takes away having to have the tensioner inside the gear box and less agro. I found the spacers but when the time is correct I will cut down the poles that I use on the chassis and wing mount for a perfect fit.

Give me your thoughts on this guys.:thumbsup:

[isobarik]

Give me your thoughts on this guys.:thumbsup:

You have clean hands and hairy arms...:D

mvh isobarik

[oosh123]

You have clean hands and hairy arms...:D

mvh isobarik

I only see clean hands and not the hairy arms.. I am not sure of you have other pictures of welshy, but I guess it's none of my business...... :woot:

Welshy, it looks great!!! so the main purpose of this design is to add a belt tensioner to the rear belts and strengthen the rear gear box, is that correct?

[Welshy40]

You have clean hands and hairy arms...:D

mvh isobarik

Explains why i get the ladies, im warm and they cant get enough

[Welshy40]

I only see clean hands and not the hairy arms.. I am not sure of you have other pictures of welshy, but I guess it's none of my business...... :woot:

Welshy, it looks great!!! so the main purpose of this design is to add a belt tensioner to the rear belts and strengthen the rear gear box, is that correct?

Yes. Dealing hopefully with the snapping rear belts and i did notice the inner top section did rub on the belt so will do away with that section on my cf box so hope to sort it all out in one go.

[oosh123]

Can't wait for the rear gear box with belt tensioner.

I also can't wait till my season to start and see people's faces when a 20+ car beat their brand new Durangos, Associated, etc :thumbsup:

[oosh123]

Happy Chinese New Year!! (Yes, I am chinese)

[Welshy40]

Happy new year mate. Hope its a good one ( they always are)

[BORMAC]

Happy Chinese new year!!! :thumbsup:

Ok, so I was wondering if the Lazer ZX is prone to overtseer in stock formation?

I have driven my old ZXR Mk2 on the track a few years back and I found even back then it turned in a lot more than any other car I have ever driven. I drove my ZX on the pavement today and found the same characteristics as my ZXR.

Just wondering if they are known for their 'turn in'??

Cheers-Jason

[Welshy40]

Happy Chinese new year!!! :thumbsup:

Ok, so I was wondering if the Lazer ZX is prone to overtseer in stock formation?

I have driven my old ZXR Mk2 on the track a few years back and I found even back then it turned in a lot more than any other car I have ever driven. I drove my ZX on the pavement today and found the same characteristics as my ZXR.

Just wondering if they are known for their 'turn in'??

Cheers-Jason

I love over steer but found the 4 degree front hubs took the edge away (even though i only use 7.5). You may also find cutting the inner rows off, in my case for carpet I cut two rows from the inner front and one outer front row, and this stopped grip roll and made the car a bit more tameable. Oh a roll bar on the rear as well helps.

[Stephen Lander]

I am impressed by the dedication of this group of vintage rc'ers to pedal this classic hard in the modern era, I too have a pretty special ZXR that I'd like to break out again. I ought to get a pic on here for you guys at least. I'm currently about to give a 1987 Ultima the berries up against the new stuff. B-)

[oosh123]

I am impressed by the dedication of this group of vintage rc'ers to pedal this classic hard in the modern era, I too have a pretty special ZXR that I'd like to break out again. I ought to get a pic on here for you guys at least. I'm currently about to give a 1987 Ultima the berries up against the new stuff. B-)

Nice to see you here! I have only been restoring my ZX for a short time and this thread has help tremendously. Now, I believe my ZX will be competitive against the newer models.

[isobarik]

I am impressed by the dedication of this group of vintage rc'ers to pedal this classic hard in the modern era, I too have a pretty special ZXR that I'd like to break out again. I ought to get a pic on here for you guys at least. I'm currently about to give a 1987 Ultima the berries up against the new stuff. B-)

Welcome aboard Stephen and please show us the good stuff....:thumbsup:

Welshy i did notice something else on the pick youre hands....

they are not covered in vaselin .....:woot: and an gearbox or whats left of it ,......:thumbsup:

oosh123 on wednesday.

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Welcome aboard Stephen and please show us the good stuff....:thumbsup:

Welshy i did notice something else on the pick youre hands....

they are not covered in vaselin .....:woot: and an gearbox or whats left of it ,......:thumbsup:

oosh123 on wednesday.

mvh Isobarik

Iso, stop making me laugh.

[oosh123]

I got a question for you guys. For the LA-11 pulleys, do you want it to be aluminum hard anodized? or steel heat treated? Or Aluminum 7075, it's a harder aluminum.

[rondoolaa]

i found some video's i took in 1993,

firstly i am sorry about the video sizes, i dont know why they came out so small, i will dig out the original video one day and re-do them,


the first video is of me and my 2 mates messing about with our cars on some waste land, mine is the lazer zx and i'm the guy in the black top,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erXmvUcqX90&list=UUAOJXaMm0g3UAgmDHbiA6lw&index=2&feature=plcp


the second vid is of a couple of races i did in a car park near my house, in the first race my car was sliding everywhere so i swapped to some nice front pink wheels but dont think the tyres were any different, but i came 2nd and got a trophy :)

the camera mainly focuses on my car,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FupFKmDjPF8&list=UUAOJXaMm0g3UAgmDHbiA6lw&index=1&feature=plcp

[Welshy40]

I got a question for you guys. For the LA-11 pulleys, do you want it to be aluminum hard anodized? or steel heat treated? Or Aluminum 7075, it's a harder aluminum.

Which is the hardest but lightest?

[oosh123]

Which is the hardest but lightest?

That would be Titanium. :woot:

I will see if my supplier will do Aluminum 7075. it's for aerospace products. But I will try and see if they make it out of Titanium too =)

[Welshy40]

That would be Titanium. :woot:

I will see if my supplier will do Aluminum 7075. it's for aerospace products. But I will try and see if they make it out of Titanium too =)

I wouldnt bother, cost would be too pricey. Would the hard annodized be the same quality as what youd find for tamiya cars or other makes? That would be the best option.

[isobarik]

I think that the machineing of the pulleys will be the cost compared to the material itself.

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

Happy Chinese New Year!! (Yes, I am chinese)
really? where are you from ? i am in malaysia and chinese new year is really big here.

[alcyon]

Happy Chinese new year!!! :thumbsup:

Ok, so I was wondering if the Lazer ZX is prone to overtseer in stock formation?

I have driven my old ZXR Mk2 on the track a few years back and I found even back then it turned in a lot more than any other car I have ever driven. I drove my ZX on the pavement today and found the same characteristics as my ZXR.

Just wondering if they are known for their 'turn in'??

Cheers-Jason
the funny thing is back in the day, i always found my ZX to understeer, and my optima mid too. i was always envious of those other guys who can turn in like crazy !

[alcyon]

i found some video's i took in 1993,

firstly i am sorry about the video sizes, i dont know why they came out so small, i will dig out the original video one day and re-do them,


the first video is of me and my 2 mates messing about with our cars on some waste land, mine is the lazer zx and i'm the guy in the black top,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erXmvUcqX90&list=UUAOJXaMm0g3UAgmDHbiA6lw&index=2&feature=plcp


the second vid is of a couple of races i did in a car park near my house, in the first race my car was sliding everywhere so i swapped to some nice front pink wheels but dont think the tyres were any different, but i came 2nd and got a trophy :)

the camera mainly focuses on my car,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FupFKmDjPF8&list=UUAOJXaMm0g3UAgmDHbiA6lw&index=1&feature=plcp
yep, you should redo them , just too small to see anyhting, can see you lost your rear wing though, and do you still have all your locks on your head?

[isobarik]

Welsh should be possible to get an custom rear belt same tooth number but 5mm instead of the 4 ........

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

really? where are you from ? i am in malaysia and chinese new year is really big here.

I am a chinese living in Vancouver, Canada. It's big here too since many chinese have taken over the lower mainland :thumbsup: