Lazer zxr

[isobarik]

is it for an runner or an original build ????

mvh Isobarik

[bigfella]

its for a runner

[isobarik]

Then i have one for you complete with "free motorplate" since i cant get the screw off .:woot::thumbsup:

shipment should be around 7 quid

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

Then i have one for you complete with "free motorplate" since i cant get the screw off .:woot::thumbsup:

shipment should be around 7 quid

mvh isobarik

Iso, you crack me up, you know the English slang very well.:thumbsup:

[bigfella]

that would be great,is it still attached to the rear of the gearbox?

[adam lancia]

that would be great,is it still attached to the rear of the gearbox?

Great effort! ;)

[Welshy40]

Guys, have I got news for you.

See the below pictures and make up your own mind. Im still designing the under gearbox section and will redesign slightly the CF plates but as can be seen its not bad for the first proto, not bad at all.

Ok so we do need to find a machinist to make the small poles and small washers and bearing holder tensioners but thats what designing new things is about. :thumbsup:

PS those belts do look superb with this

[isobarik]

that would be great,is it still attached to the rear of the gearbox?

Nope just the motorplate and the LA-31

do you want it ????

Welsh looking really good , sign me up for one.

mvh Isobarik

[bigfella]

35752I dont understand how the la31 is attached to motor plate,the la31 attaches to the the la33 which is the gear box,the la 31 has the rear shock stay fixed to it35751

[alcyon]

35752I dont understand how the la31 is attached to motor plate,the la31 attaches to the the la33 which is the gear box,the la 31 has the rear shock stay fixed to it35751
you are right it doesnt attach to the motor plate

[alcyon]

Guys, have I got news for you.

See the below pictures and make up your own mind. Im still designing the under gearbox section and will redesign slightly the CF plates but as can be seen its not bad for the first proto, not bad at all.

Ok so we do need to find a machinist to make the small poles and small washers and bearing holder tensioners but thats what designing new things is about. :thumbsup:

PS those belts do look superb with this
Hey looks great, but i wonder how do you intend to secure the vertical plates to the lower chassis, are you making some plastic lower blocks?

[isobarik]

35752I dont understand how the la31 is attached to motor plate,the la31 attaches to the the la33 which is the gear box,the la 31 has the rear shock stay fixed to it35751

ah ..i thought you meant the LA-31 wich is on the otherside....

then i would say no

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Hey looks great, but i wonder how do you intend to secure the vertical plates to the lower chassis, are you making some plastic lower blocks?

Ive just wasted three rear gearboxes by cutting down but have cocked it up so many times its not the way to go for everyone else. I am now working on a zxs rear box and have done one side and am slowly doing the other. Once im happy i will get a mold made for plastic making.

The advantages of this design is you can adjust the belt tension and also see how taught the belt is any time. Ive also since posting these pics found that you need to use the zxs thrust race to get a perfect fit for the layshaft with zero movement sideways. You also must glue the sidewalls on the pulleys (you didnt need to do this on the zx/zxr gearbox).

Will post more when im satisfied.

[bigfella]

ah ..i thought you meant the LA-31 wich is on the otherside....

then i would say no

mvh Isobarik


no problem Iso thanks for having a look

[Welshy40]

Ouch!!! Cost to have a layshaft made in the UK is £86:thumbdown:

[alcyon]

Ouch!!! Cost to have a layshaft made in the UK is £86:thumbdown:
yep, thats becuase you have minimum wage. in malaysia ..well we are a sweatshop ....

[Welshy40]

yep, thats becuase you have minimum wage. in malaysia ..well we are a sweatshop ....

Well Rama, what do you think it will cost in your sweatshop?:blush:

Ive also had a rethink on the gearbox sides, and believe if I go the whole hog and CF all the way to the chassis I may be able to add two attachment points onto the pivot blocks (one on either side) as I am having issues with the plastic bottom sections. I will have a proto made with all my issues so far resolved and the bottom added and also get the pivot blocks made as well and hopefully get this on the road.

Ive got a few things to do such as drill holes through the grain on CF pivot blocks as fibrelyte wont do that for me and then cut some brass tubing and glue in the holes giving strength and then hopefully fit with zero problems and hopefully game on.

[oosh123]

Welshy,

Great job on your rear gear box! looks very nice! I am available if you needed my help. Can't wait to see the end product.

Alcyon,

I might be able to help manufacturing your layshaft as I know a few "child-labour sweat shop" in china that will do my biddings as well. If you don't mind, you can send me the solidworks files and they can CNC it.


I saw this on my cell phone:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260989353414&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123

I thought it was a blue alloy bumper. :o But with closer looks, it's just a regular one with blue glow on it.

[isobarik]

Welshy,

Great job on your rear gear box! looks very nice! I am available if you needed my help. Can't wait to see the end product.

Alcyon,

I might be able to help manufacturing your layshaft as I know a few "child-labour sweat shop" in china that will do my biddings as well. If you don't mind, you can send me the solidworks files and they can CNC it.


I saw this on my cell phone:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260989353414&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123

I thought it was a blue alloy bumper. :o But with closer looks, it's just a regular one with blue glow on it.

just the light that makes it look that way.

welsh

for the rear gearbox why not use the flanged bearing instead as per oosh123´s front gearbox design.

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

Welshy,

Great job on your rear gear box! looks very nice! I am available if you needed my help. Can't wait to see the end product.

Alcyon,

I might be able to help manufacturing your layshaft as I know a few "child-labour sweat shop" in china that will do my biddings as well. If you don't mind, you can send me the solidworks files and they can CNC it.


I saw this on my cell phone:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260989353414&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:CA:1123

I thought it was a blue alloy bumper. :o But with closer looks, it's just a regular one with blue glow on it.
Ok, but let me see what my machine shop says his price is first ok ?

[Welshy40]

Right ive done a redesign. Ive added a lug at the top back of the CF gearbox for the back section to be directly screwed into the two empty holes in the rear shock tower mount, that no one uses for anything as well as an extra lower lug at the bottom front. The front one will be to screw directly into a redesigned pivot block (hole to be added ontop of current version on either side). This will then mean a fully fitted open CF gearbox :thumbsup:

[alcyon]

Welshy i just arrived home to see the package that you have sent. got both spurs and will sell one to my pal, and minus the cost as we agreed. the second one will be sent back to you once the prototype shaft is done.

[Welshy40]

Welshy i just arrived home to see the package that you have sent. got both spurs and will sell one to my pal, and minus the cost as we agreed. the second one will be sent back to you once the prototype shaft is done.

Keep it mate, ive got several more.

[Welshy40]

Piccy of my new design

[moth898]

Hi Boys, I was thinking of selling my racer that I never raced. Before I put it on ebay I wanted to give you guys a chance to pick it up.

Fyberlyte welshy chassis and tower cut to fit lipos.
nosram lipos
aluminium hinge mounts
aluminium bellcrank
kyosho velvet shocks
ball diffs aluminium front hubs
tomcat body
team bluegroove undertray

fully loaded

make me a offer

[londonladliam]

3racing advertising about pulley on there homepage...i know pulleys were mentioned a week or so ago could be worth a peep

http://os.3racing.hk/articles.php?articles_key=141

liam

[isobarik]

Hi Boys, I was thinking of selling my racer that I never raced. Before I put it on ebay I wanted to give you guys a chance to pick it up.

Fyberlyte welshy chassis and tower cut to fit lipos.
nosram lipos
aluminium hinge mounts
aluminium bellcrank
kyosho velvet shocks
ball diffs aluminium front hubs
tomcat body
team bluegroove undertray

fully loaded

make me a offer

Way to sexy to sell .........

but you do as you want

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

3racing advertising about pulley on there homepage...i know pulleys were mentioned a week or so ago could be worth a peep

http://os.3racing.hk/articles.php?articles_key=141

liam

thanks liam really good find ....

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

Yup, better than integy.com

Found this one which I am hoping is the correct size. This is a one way so would work for me only however I can buy two one for the front one way and swop it around for the rear belt, that is if its the correct size. Any ideas if it is?

http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=5397

[johnny_0]

Just found a new ZX-S evo only built with box, new body decals etc. It's on my way :thumbsup:.

Pics when it wil arrive to me :wub

[isobarik]

Yup, better than integy.com

Found this one which I am hoping is the correct size. This is a one way so would work for me only however I can buy two one for the front one way and swop it around for the rear belt, that is if its the correct size. Any ideas if it is?

http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=5397


so that you will have front wheel drive forward and rearwheel drive in reverse ?????

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

I believe its actually easiler to design the layshaft with the 3racing one way pulleys.

1. securing one way pulley to layshaft with c-clips
2. ball bearings on either side of layshaft (as it was before)
3. thrust bearing on motor side ball bearing
4. mount slipper plate and spur which have flat surface on layshaft
5. secure both sides, spur gear side with spring, just a nyloc nut on the other to keep the ball bearing in place.

The 3 racing on way pulleys are $16.67 each x 2. Simple layshaft $10-20 or lower (depending on quantity). Slipper plates - RB5's vented slipper plates are $33. but you can get them halfpriced if you don't want the vents.

So the whole design is approx. $60-85.

just my 2 cent.

[oosh123]

a little preview

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/layshaft3racing.jpg

I might just make it and try it out.

[oosh123]

deleted

[isobarik]

Oosh123 looking good...

but why do you want 11 tooth pulleys ???

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Oosh123 looking good...

but why do you want 11 tooth pulleys ???

mvh Isobarik

It was a mistake. Hence, the deletion of the post lol.

[isobarik]

Ooosh

ok

do you have any dimensions ???

mvh isobarik

[oosh123]

Ooosh

ok

do you have any dimensions ???

mvh isobarik

Nope... I asked 3racing for the dim of the pulley.

going to do some measuring tonight. and will fix the model accordingly.

[rondoolaa]

i got bored the other night so decided to get all the parts off my lazers that are the same colour and put the all on the same car,

some parts are a bit rough ie: front shock tower

gotta be a 1 off i reckon,

i might stick this one on the bay also so i can put the money towards my new car i'm after, will still have about 6 lazers but no red bits left :confused:

and yes i would clean it up if i was to sell it, LOL.

cant upload pics for some reason, happens to me every so often on oople, so uploaded them here instead,

click link below for slideshow,
.
.
.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76269319@N04/sets/72157629689681589/show/

.
.
ps: red paint on the table is from my son doing his art work on our table, nothing to do with the car.........
.
.
.
.

[Welshy40]

so that you will have front wheel drive forward and rearwheel drive in reverse ?????

mvh Isobarik

Dozy sod, full 4wd forwards, zero rear wheel drive

[Welshy40]

I believe its actually easiler to design the layshaft with the 3racing one way pulleys.

1. securing one way pulley to layshaft with c-clips
2. ball bearings on either side of layshaft (as it was before)
3. thrust bearing on motor side ball bearing
4. mount slipper plate and spur which have flat surface on layshaft
5. secure both sides, spur gear side with spring, just a nyloc nut on the other to keep the ball bearing in place.

The 3 racing on way pulleys are $16.67 each x 2. Simple layshaft $10-20 or lower (depending on quantity). Slipper plates - RB5's vented slipper plates are $33. but you can get them halfpriced if you don't want the vents.

So the whole design is approx. $60-85.

just my 2 cent.

Basically what i was saying earlier but not as indepth. Im up for testing as well, unsure tho on using kyosho slipper plates as they dont do high torque pads.

[Welshy40]

a little preview

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/layshaft3racing.jpg

I might just make it and try it out.

Looks good.

[Welshy40]

Just found a new ZX-S evo only built with box, new body decals etc. It's on my way :thumbsup:.

Pics when it wil arrive to me :wub

How much?

[oosh123]

Basically what i was saying earlier but not as indepth. Im up for testing as well, unsure tho on using kyosho slipper plates as they dont do high torque pads.

But it's still just 2 plates creating fraction with the pads. if the pads are good, it should slip properly. Plus, when using the RB5 slipper plates, the plates are big enough that it will utilize the whole b4 pad.

The further the plate can reach from the center and the more surface area it contacts, the less tightening on the screw.

[oosh123]

Dozy sod, full 4wd forwards, zero rear wheel drive

Yea, and if you want your car to reverse, then just flip a pulley.

[oosh123]

After studying the layshaft, I realized that my design won't work.

Although the lazer is a 4wd, it's not a 4w brake. While pressing on the brake, only the rear wheels brake. When you are braking, your spur gear and slipper slows down, then your slipper plate. When your slipper plate slows down the pulley which is attached to the slipper plate slows down. If you have a normal lazer, your rear one way bearing will help. But if you are using a LAW-4, your braking relies on the slipper pad and plate. I hope I am being clear about this.

That being said, if you detach your slipper plate with your rear pulley, you will have no brakes at all.

I know welshy doesn't want to use brakes :wtf: but I want the ability to do so.

I will think of another way, meanwhile let's wait for alcyon

[lllyf]

nice redesign slipper lay shaft

[oosh123]

Okay, I have 2 solutions. No offence alcyon I don't want to steal your thunder by designing another layshaft. But I do believe these 2 solutions are more economic.

The first solution is the one I posted a few pages back. 2 fixed pulleys bind to the layshaft with setscrews. This solution will give you all time 4wd and 4w brakes. I do believe the belts will be very stressful.

If you want to keep the original kyosho concept to have only rear brakes + reversibility + LAW-4's properties. The second option is your choice.

The pulley that is furthest to the spur is a front rolling one way pulley and the pulley that is closer to the spur will have a fixed pulley binded to the layshaft with setscrews.

let me do a little explaination. First off, when you accelerate, you will get 4wd. Your spur + slipper pad + slipper plate will power the layshaft, rotating the fixed pulley & the one way pulley (which gives you 50/50 4wd). When you brake, your spur + pad + plate slows down, but it will only slow down your fixed pulley (which give you rear brakes). Finally, with the same idea as braking. When you reverse, only your fixed pulley rotates backwards. Rwd when reversing is the same as a normal lazer (giving your lazer reversiblility).

How's that? and it will only cost ~$90 USD / 56 quids for all the components (I am learning the lingo as well). All you need to buy from me is the layshaft and you can call kyosho & 3racing for the other parts.

Thank you Liam for finding the pulley for us. If only the side plates of the pulley is blue.

I will try and build both of the layshafts and test them thoroughly.

[alcyon]

Okay, I have 2 solutions. No offence alcyon I don't want to steal your thunder by designing another layshaft. But I do believe these 2 solutions are more economic.

The first solution is the one I posted a few pages back. 2 fixed pulleys bind to the layshaft with setscrews. This solution will give you all time 4wd and 4w brakes. I do believe the belts will be very stressful.



Its not about stealing thunder or anyhting, i just as any lazer driver, want something we can use. i agree with you on the 2 pulleys, but there is a big problem. so far there are no rc pulleys that are wide enough to place the lazers belt. the lazer uses a 4.5mm width belt and the pulleys must be at least 5mm width. the current tc pulleys on the market are 4.4mm wide. Unless we machine our own pulleys which cost a lot more.

[Welshy40]

Oosh123

The problem is finding a fixed slot pulley without the chunk of metal on the side so it will fit perfectly.

[oosh123]

Its not about stealing thunder or anyhting, i just as any lazer driver, want something we can use. i agree with you on the 2 pulleys, but there is a big problem. so far there are no rc pulleys that are wide enough to place the lazers belt. the lazer uses a 4.5mm width belt and the pulleys must be at least 5mm width. the current tc pulleys on the market are 4.4mm wide. Unless we machine our own pulleys which cost a lot more.

The blue belts that were shown in welshy's rear gear box are both 4mm wide.

I know..... because I made them.

[oosh123]

Oosh123

The problem is finding a fixed slot pulley without the chunk of metal on the side so it will fit perfectly.

It doesn't matter, there are plenty of room for the chunk of metal on the side because we are taking out the original chunk of aluminum with the one way. I will draw up something in the next day or two and show you.

[oosh123]

if you guys want bling on your pulleys, google "Square Aluminium Center Pulley 14T"

It will cost a bit more.

And 3racing don't have a fixed 14T pulley

[lllyf]

Just found a new ZX-S evo only built with box, new body decals etc. It's on my way :thumbsup:.

Pics when it wil arrive to me :wub
Nice! is that with the blue dyed rims one?

[Welshy40]

Nice! is that with the blue dyed rims one?

Come on let us know as it could be one of the ones I sold ages back. Be warned that you wont be able to run it unless you spend on a machinist to make a new rear shock tower mount and gear box bottom sections from alloy as well as they are stupidly brittle.

[johnny_0]

Nice! is that with the blue dyed rims one?

The evo comes with his blue wheels and kyosho tyres. It is a fresh build and comes from Japan.

[lllyf]

The evo comes with his blue wheels and kyosho tyres. It is a fresh build and comes from Japan.
I saw that action, the rim must be dyed, original evo no come with rims and tires, but the car really nice condition,very hard to find

[johnny_0]

I saw that action, the rim must be dyed, original evo no come with rims and tires, but the car really nice condition,very hard to find

The car comes also with original box, manual with azure wheels and tyres (aftermarket Kyosho products)

Yes it's really hard to find in Japan too.

[londonladliam]

if you guys want bling on your pulleys, google "Square Aluminium Center Pulley 14T"

It will cost a bit more.

And 3racing don't have a fixed 14T pulley


Now that we know 3 racing make them could we not spec one and ask them to make it for us?to the desired spec I'm sure there enough of us who want/potentially use them

[alcyon]

The blue belts that were shown in welshy's rear gear box are both 4mm wide.

I know..... because I made them.
but that means i have to buy the blue belts and i cant use my existing belts or tough racing belts. are the blue belts as tough as the originals?
Welshy, if we dont use the one way, we can use a standard pulley with the chunk on the side.

[oosh123]

Now that we know 3 racing make them could we not spec one and ask them to make it for us?to the desired spec I'm sure there enough of us who want/potentially use them

Since 3Racing is a Company based in Hong Kong. I do believe they purchase their stock from China Manufacturers. Yes, we can spec and ask them to make, but I do not believe they will do that because it will mean they have to stock 1000-5000+ or even more pulleys.

What I am trying to say is that, if our spec of pulley is a niche market, they won't make it.

[oosh123]

but that means i have to buy the blue belts and i cant use my existing belts or tough racing belts. are the blue belts as tough as the originals?
Welshy, if we dont use the one way, we can use a standard pulley with the chunk on the side.

It would be bias if I say they are good as anything. I will wait till people who have the blue belts reply.

But I can tell you that the blue belts are kelvar reinforced polyurethane belts. They are very similar to the Kyosho Spider's SP belts.

[isobarik]

OOsh

do you have the dimensions on the axle ????

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

i got bored the other night so decided to get all the parts off my lazers that are the same colour and put the all on the same car,

some parts are a bit rough ie: front shock tower

gotta be a 1 off i reckon,

i might stick this one on the bay also so i can put the money towards my new car i'm after, will still have about 6 lazers but no red bits left :confused:

and yes i would clean it up if i was to sell it, LOL.

cant upload pics for some reason, happens to me every so often on oople, so uploaded them here instead,

click link below for slideshow,
.
.
.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76269319@N04/sets/72157629689681589/show/

.
.
ps: red paint on the table is from my son doing his art work on our table, nothing to do with the car.........
.
.
.
.


Got to love the red chassi ...why cant pargu make a beuty like that ....you should get some carbon holders for it ...

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

I saw that action, the rim must be dyed, original evo no come with rims and tires, but the car really nice condition,very hard to find

Yes spot on. I still think the yz10 wheels suited it better with the one piece chassis on the zxs. I preferred that due to less flex and better balance compared to the three piece. Still an evo, one of 200 ever made. Welcome to the club.

[oosh123]

OOsh

do you have the dimensions on the axle ????

mvh Isobarik

I have some dimensions. But I want to make sure of all dimensions before I make prototypes.

I will get the pulleys, slipper plates etc first and fit it first.


one other thing. Since no one make 4x14x4 bearings. An adaptor might need to be added to the layshaft to be able to fit a 6x14x4 bearing. If any of you are able to locate a 4x14x4 bearing, please post it here.

[knmtrip3]

Seen lots of posts about the pulleys and remembered i got this layshaft and solid pulleys with a lazer zx i got a few yrs back. Does anyone know which model it came with??

[alcyon]

I have some dimensions. But I want to make sure of all dimensions before I make prototypes.

I will get the pulleys, slipper plates etc first and fit it first.


one other thing. Since no one make 4x14x4 bearings. An adaptor might need to be added to the layshaft to be able to fit a 6x14x4 bearing. If any of you are able to locate a 4x14x4 bearing, please post it here.
you mean 8x14? really cant get those anymore ?
i built my lazer diffs with WBD-5 last night and i find that the 8x14 bearings have to much gap between the aluminium spacer. this will not only cause the diff to move side to side a lot, but will also allow dirt to get into the rear gearbox. How do i get the correct shims to fix this problem? this is avery serious problem. if i cant fix this i can forget about my lazer or i have to back to WBD-1.

[oosh123]

you mean 8x14? really cant get those anymore ?
i built my lazer diffs with WBD-5 last night and i find that the 8x14 bearings have to much gap between the aluminium spacer. this will not only cause the diff to move side to side a lot, but will also allow dirt to get into the rear gearbox. How do i get the correct shims to fix this problem? this is avery serious problem. if i cant fix this i can forget about my lazer or i have to back to WBD-1.

I remember when I used 3mm balls to build the ball diff that the pulley wiggles a bit. I ended up using 1/8" balls and it was much more rigid.

To solve the shimming issue, you will need to get some 8 x 14 shims. Luckily I got some at my desposal I was able to shim it properly. I rebuilded the rear gear box a few time to get it to be shimmed correctly. It's all trial and error for me.

[oosh123]

I just ordered the square aluminum pulleys and diff pulleys (see if I can make the ball diffs more durable).

They should come in the next week or so. After that, the fitting will begin.

Wish me luck.

[isobarik]

you mean 8x14? really cant get those anymore ?
i built my lazer diffs with WBD-5 last night and i find that the 8x14 bearings have to much gap between the aluminium spacer. this will not only cause the diff to move side to side a lot, but will also allow dirt to get into the rear gearbox. How do i get the correct shims to fix this problem? this is avery serious problem. if i cant fix this i can forget about my lazer or i have to back to WBD-1.

putting in some 1/8 balls instead of the 3mm will make it a bit wider.

mvhisobarik

[isobarik]

I just ordered the square aluminum pulleys and diff pulleys (see if I can make the ball diffs more durable).

They should come in the next week or so. After that, the fitting will begin.

Wish me luck.

I´ll bet you will make it work..............:thumbsup:
mvh Isobarik

[Ema]

Seen lots of posts about the pulleys and remembered i got this layshaft and solid pulleys with a lazer zx i got a few yrs back. Does anyone know which model it came with??

This pulley assembly came with the Lazer Zx Sport.
Don't use it with a powerful motor or you will strip the plastic pulley lock on the shaft.

Bye
Ema

[Welshy40]

Second instalment of my gearbox will be with me either on Saturday (if the post works correctly) otherwise early next week. Once all built up I will need to redesign the pivot blocks but should have a carbon fibre prototype within a week or two as well. Cant wait.:thumbsup:

[alcyon]

I remember when I used 3mm balls to build the ball diff that the pulley wiggles a bit. I ended up using 1/8" balls and it was much more rigid.

To solve the shimming issue, you will need to get some 8 x 14 shims. Luckily I got some at my desposal I was able to shim it properly. I rebuilded the rear gear box a few time to get it to be shimmed correctly. It's all trial and error for me.
where di you get the shims? could you sell a set to me? i just spent 20 dollars on complete set of ceramic balls from my lazer, and they are 3mm. so i am not going to buy new 1/8" balls, that by the way will fit on my kawada TC.

[isobarik]

This pulley assembly came with the Lazer Zx Sport.
Don't use it with a powerful motor or you will strip the plastic pulley lock on the shaft.

Bye
Ema

Looks like it but it isnt ..........touring car....hm hm hm ...

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Second instalment of my gearbox will be with me either on Saturday (if the post works correctly) otherwise early next week. Once all built up I will need to redesign the pivot blocks but should have a carbon fibre prototype within a week or two as well. Cant wait.:thumbsup:

Sounds Great! can't wait to see it.

Make the final product out of those blue carbon fibres!!

I think I am obsessed with blue on the lazer now.

[oosh123]

where di you get the shims? could you sell a set to me? i just spent 20 dollars on complete set of ceramic balls from my lazer, and they are 3mm. so i am not going to buy new 1/8" balls, that by the way will fit on my kawada TC.

I only got one or two left. You may need more.

I have to double check if they are 8x14 shims, I think I used KYO96645. which are 11 x 14 shims.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1460_133/products_id/4111/n/Kyosho-11x14mm-Shim-Set-10

[oosh123]

RB5 slipper plate's diameter is too big for the b4 slipper pads.

I am going to use the B4 V2 vented slipper pad for this build. Also got my self a high torgue slipper pad for b4.

[oosh123]

This is my currently design for the layshaft.

It's a bit messy. Please comment your opinions.

I am thinking if I should all a thrust bearing between the spacer & thrust plate.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/layshaftdesign.jpg

[isobarik]

Looking ACe oosh .....:thumbsup:

cant wait to see it ...

How are things going with the front carbon gearbox that looked soo wounderfull.

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

This is my currently design for the layshaft.

It's a bit messy. Please comment your opinions.

I am thinking if I should all a thrust bearing between the spacer & thrust plate.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/layshaftdesign.jpg
Looks good, but dont forget to measure all the distances to make sure it will fit in. The space for the pulleys is actually very tight.

[Welshy40]

Well here it is, only one screw hole in roughly 1mm out of place but hey, its not bad for a second attempt. As you can see the two areas where the gearbox will bolt to the chassis, one on top of the pivot block which I still have to design and the rear tower mount where its almost perfect.

This is going to be a first as I don't recall seeing a car with a total cf gearbox. Comments welcome.:thumbsup:

[oosh123]

Well here it is, only one screw hole in roughly 1mm out of place but hey, its not bad for a second attempt. As you can see the two areas where the gearbox will bolt to the chassis, one on top of the pivot block which I still have to design and the rear tower mount where its almost perfect.

This is going to be a first as I don't recall seeing a car with a total cf gearbox. Comments welcome.:thumbsup:

Awesome! When can I get one??

For boltings to the chassis, on your last picture, if you use a rectangle aluminum bar instead of a aluminum round bar and have that right on top of the pivot block, then you don't have to tap into your CF plates.

This means, you need to plug the 4 other holes on the bottom to keep dirts away.

[alcyon]

Well here it is, only one screw hole in roughly 1mm out of place but hey, its not bad for a second attempt. As you can see the two areas where the gearbox will bolt to the chassis, one on top of the pivot block which I still have to design and the rear tower mount where its almost perfect.

This is going to be a first as I don't recall seeing a car with a total cf gearbox. Comments welcome.:thumbsup:
its interesting, with an open design like this, the tranny will be more smoother and effiecient but i see you did not use the front 2 holes to mount the gearbox. it looks like you are using the rear plastic piece to mount to the last 2 holes on the chassis, then you use the motor plate to hold the fron end on the right side, and on the left you use the "torque" arm plate to secure to the top deck mount, am i right?

[isobarik]

Awesome! When can I get one??

For boltings to the chassis, on your last picture, if you use a rectangle aluminum bar instead of a aluminum round bar and have that right on top of the pivot block, then you don't have to tap into your CF plates.

This means, you need to plug the 4 other holes on the bottom to keep dirts away.

That was a good idea.

mvh Isobarik

Btw welsh looks ace otherwise....

[Welshy40]

its interesting, with an open design like this, the tranny will be more smoother and effiecient but i see you did not use the front 2 holes to mount the gearbox. it looks like you are using the rear plastic piece to mount to the last 2 holes on the chassis, then you use the motor plate to hold the fron end on the right side, and on the left you use the "torque" arm plate to secure to the top deck mount, am i right?

As i mentioned i havent designed the pivot block holder yet but there is a hole directly above that to attach when ive designed and made it. Three holes on each site to attach to the chassis. Also the two holes either side at the very back will be taken off the design as i cant use them.

Also you need to file the original rear mounts screw hole by the thickness of the cf plate on either side and also on the two back holes use a knife to cut the long ecess plastic and a file to file the section and arpund so it slots in perfectly.

[Welshy40]

Awesome! When can I get one??

For boltings to the chassis, on your last picture, if you use a rectangle aluminum bar instead of a aluminum round bar and have that right on top of the pivot block, then you don't have to tap into your CF plates.

This means, you need to plug the 4 other holes on the bottom to keep dirts away.

The inner pivot block is having an extension and will be raised so you bolt into the holes above. The two holes at the back of the gearbox either side will be filled in as they were there as per the original gearbox design.

[oosh123]

The inner pivot block is having an extension and will be raised so you bolt into the holes above. The two holes at the back of the gearbox either side will be filled in as they were there as per the original gearbox design.

I meant wouldn't it be easier to just drill a M3 clearance holes where the existing threads are on the inner pivot block and have some aluminum coming out of the gear box to meet the pivot block than to redesign the it?

[Welshy40]

I meant wouldn't it be easier to just drill a M3 clearance holes where the existing threads are on the inner pivot block and have some aluminum coming out of the gear box to meet the pivot block than to redesign the it?

Problem is the belt doesnt give room to play with and you have to take the movement of the belt as well. I was thinking of adding a block ontop of the pivot block, but now im contimplating filing two flat spots on a pole and drilling m3 holes through and attach that way.

Then again looking at it we still have to do a redesign to make it fit and attach to the original chassis gearbox front holes and as you say go upwards to attach to those two holes directly above, then i can move the pole to the outer hole originally put there for the pivot block attachment.

[Welshy40]

After some discussions with Fibre lyte we have an idea for making a block to do the job.

It fits directly above the front gearbox holes that are by the pivot block. The idea is the block will have two holes drilled into it by fibrelyte (bigger so a brass tube can be cut to size and glued within the block giving strength) but then they will make me a jig so that I can drill the side as I will be going against the grain. Then when done I should have a brass tube cut and glued in to give strength and then bolt to the chassis. This should also stop some dirt getting in as well and shouldnt be too expensive either.

I am also looking at the pivot block in CF as well (I designed and tested these twelve years ago) and will when happy get these posted on the website with all the other extras.

[oosh123]

One piece upper deck (Lazer ZX-R) or Two pieces (Lazer ZX)?

Is there an advantage of having a one piece upper deck?

The reason I am asking because no matter how I tighten the front belt from above, the belt will rub on the first "bridge".

If having the 2 pieces upper deck system is the same as the 1 piece, then I would go for the 2 pieces, so that my front belt won't rub anything.

[oosh123]

After some discussions with Fibre lyte we have an idea for making a block to do the job.

It fits directly above the front gearbox holes that are by the pivot block. The idea is the block will have two holes drilled into it by fibrelyte (bigger so a brass tube can be cut to size and glued within the block giving strength) but then they will make me a jig so that I can drill the side as I will be going against the grain. Then when done I should have a brass tube cut and glued in to give strength and then bolt to the chassis. This should also stop some dirt getting in as well and shouldnt be too expensive either.

I am also looking at the pivot block in CF as well (I designed and tested these twelve years ago) and will when happy get these posted on the website with all the other extras.

Welshy, Maybe it's monday morning here, but I am not quote sure what you are talking about. :thumbsup: I will wait and see what crazy ideas you come up with to mount the CF rear gear box.

[oosh123]

Problem is the belt doesnt give room to play with and you have to take the movement of the belt as well. I was thinking of adding a block ontop of the pivot block, but now im contimplating filing two flat spots on a pole and drilling m3 holes through and attach that way.

Then again looking at it we still have to do a redesign to make it fit and attach to the original chassis gearbox front holes and as you say go upwards to attach to those two holes directly above, then i can move the pole to the outer hole originally put there for the pivot block attachment.


I understand it's easier said then done.

but what I was saying is this.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/conceptmount.jpg

Blue is the pivot block, red is the piece that mounts your gearbox to the pivot block. Having it rounded on one side can help you clear the belt. The 2 lines between the pivot block are where your bolts goes thru.

Sorry for the rough drawing, I only have microsoft paint to manipulate JPG files.

[Welshy40]

One piece upper deck (Lazer ZX-R) or Two pieces (Lazer ZX)?

Is there an advantage of having a one piece upper deck?

The reason I am asking because no matter how I tighten the front belt from above, the belt will rub on the first "bridge".

If having the 2 pieces upper deck system is the same as the 1 piece, then I would go for the 2 pieces, so that my front belt won't rub anything.

One piece is better but redesign it by filing away a chunck so the belt doesnt hit it. I redesigned my top deck which reminds me to get fibre lyte to update their system. Mind you a two piece would still work but you may get a fractional movement (cant think of the word)

[Welshy40]

I understand it's easier said then done.

but what I was saying is this.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/conceptmount.jpg

Blue is the pivot block, red is the piece that mounts your gearbox to the pivot block. Having it rounded on one side can help you clear the belt. The 2 lines between the pivot block are where your bolts goes thru.

Sorry for the rough drawing, I only have microsoft paint to manipulate JPG files.

I understood but wont work as the pivot block screw holes are in line with the cf gearbox sides so cant add ontop. My design is add a block ontop a total of 19mm which should miss the holes and give enough to do the job, and ive also designed a work of art as well that looks great and avoids the pivot block. Ive only got a total of 21mm to play with so have opted for two designs.

Oh forgot to add found the pivot block designs and will be having them made so more cf bling to add to my zxrs.

[oosh123]

After seeing Johnny got himself a ZX-S or Evo. I want one myself too =(.

I wonder what happened to all of the kyosho's plastic injection molds or its engineering drawings. If I have a week with those......

[oosh123]

I understood but wont work as the pivot block screw holes are in line with the cf gearbox sides so cant add ontop. My design is add a block ontop a total of 19mm which should miss the holes and give enough to do the job, and ive also designed a work of art as well that looks great and avoids the pivot block. Ive only got a total of 21mm to play with so have opted for two designs.

Oh forgot to add found the pivot block designs and will be having them made so more cf bling to add to my zxrs.

Drill 2 more tap holes on the pivot block. so you can screw it from the top =).

Can't wait for your pictures.

[Welshy40]

After seeing Johnny got himself a ZX-S or Evo. I want one myself too =(.

I wonder what happened to all of the kyosho's plastic injection molds or its engineering drawings. If I have a week with those......

As i race my proto still ive changed the crap kyosho designs as the gearbox front is as brittle as rice paper and rear gearbox tower mount as well as that snaps when you roll. Chassis flexes (thats the word) on the three piece sections and the alloy plate bends. Already done the hard work, fibre lyte have all carbon fibre parts thanks to me but spares dont exist any where. Besides the zxr will be better.

[Welshy40]

Drill 2 more tap holes on the pivot block. so you can screw it from the top =).

Can't wait for your pictures.

Then you have to drill two more chassis holes and countersink, making a break point for the chassis as it will be very very weak there. You should have seen that issue. My idea is to use the original front gearbox holes on the chassis so solving one issue and also blocking dirt from getting in at the bottom. Look at my pivot block on my new gearbox and imagine it 9mm higher in between the cf plates attaching to the hole above. Im filing the whole section and drilling slowly through the grain to make room for a copper tube which can be glued for strength. Dont need it for the chassis holes as its not through the grain and a narrow threadlocked nut will hold it in sufficiently. Ive cut a bit off the top to account for the nuts without affecting the original block layout.

Now thats all down to if it works but if not my other design looks great and hope its what i use. Its a design that i put a lot of thought into using those chassis holes and bending in places to avoid hitting the belt.

[oosh123]

Welshy,

Since we are re-designing the layshaft with aluminum pulley and etc., wouldn't it be a nice time to upgrade the internal gear ratio of the lazer as well? 2.214 gear ratio is a 20+ year old thing, and since we are mostly using brushless motors now, don't you think we have enough torque and can trade some in for speed?

Or is it a bad idea to temper with it?

[Welshy40]

Welshy,

Since we are re-designing the layshaft with aluminum pulley and etc., wouldn't it be a nice time to upgrade the internal gear ratio of the lazer as well? 2.214 gear ratio is a 20+ year old thing, and since we are mostly using brushless motors now, don't you think we have enough torque and can trade some in for speed?

Or is it a bad idea to temper with it?

Speed isnt an issue as once you get the setup right the car will be quicker than most. Ratio is fine as it is, plenty of room to gear up if using a 5.0, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5 and 8.5

Once we have done the rear its the front next and possibly after that a diff redesign.

[bignick]

Hi,

I've not posted on here for a while (ok, far too long) but the excuse is that I've been sorting out my wedding in the summer.

My ZX-R is nearing completion and whilst its not as 'nice' as some in this forum I think I've done an OK job.

The ZX-R has been fully rebuilt.

I replaced all the bearings with the blue ones from ebay, tough racing belts, new screw kit, blue steering, new schumacher tyres and inserts. The shocks have been rebuilt with all original part and new oil 30wt in the rear and 40wt in the front.

Oh, I also stole the idea of velcro on the top deck, thought it looked good.

I have not quite finished as I have a Modelsport UK Sniper RV-12 brushed ESC at home waiting for me (I'm working away from home) as the original hitec sp520 has seen better days (on a test run in the garden it was sparking and the car wasn't particularly quick, not a good sign, i guess?) therefore a new one was needed.

I also have a Kamtec Parma Tomcat shell to paint and fit. So it should be up and running in the next couple of weeks.

Should be good. :thumbsup:

[Welshy40]

Hi,

I've not posted on here for a while (ok, far too long) but the excuse is that I've been sorting out my wedding in the summer.

My ZX-R is nearing completion and whilst its not as 'nice' as some in this forum I think I've done an OK job.

The ZX-R has been fully rebuilt.

I replaced all the bearings with the blue ones from ebay, tough racing belts, new screw kit, blue steering, new schumacher tyres and inserts. The shocks have been rebuilt with all original part and new oil 30wt in the rear and 40wt in the front.

Oh, I also stole the idea of velcro on the top deck, thought it looked good.

I have not quite finished as I have a Modelsport UK Sniper RV-12 brushed ESC at home waiting for me (I'm working away from home) as the original hitec sp520 has seen better days (on a test run in the garden it was sparking and the car wasn't particularly quick, not a good sign, i guess?) therefore a new one was needed.

I also have a Kamtec Parma Tomcat shell to paint and fit. So it should be up and running in the next couple of weeks.

Should be good. :thumbsup:

Ace. What wind motor? Also is the rear tower alloy, if yes then i would advise replacing with carbon fibre fom fibre lyte.

[Welshy40]

Iso,

Any idea what the part number is for the spacer washers that were wafer thin and used to push the diff bearings further out on each side of the diff. I had this on my ZX in 89 but doesnt appear on the manual, unless im being blind.

[bignick]

I have 2 motors. I have the pink one that is installed which is an ARS (Associated Reedy Sonic? - though when I emailed them about what turn it is they didn't know anything about the motor), all I know is ?tx3 on the can its has ARS Works Team Spec 5.0 modified.

The other motor has scribed on it 16tx4 and i've never fitted it before. Its got a green can and revtech stickers on it.

When I bought the ZX-R when I was kid it was second hand so these were the motors I got with it.

I'll have a look at the rear shock tower too, maybe get it as next months 'treat'.

[isobarik]

I dont recall that reedy ever made an pink can motor.

mvh isobarik

[bignick]

Hi,

I typed what it has on the can into the web and that is what it came back with, not sure really what it is and I haven't taken it apart.

Maybe someone will have some suggestions.

[Welshy40]

I have 2 motors. I have the pink one that is installed which is an ARS (Associated Reedy Sonic? - though when I emailed them about what turn it is they didn't know anything about the motor), all I know is ?tx3 on the can its has ARS Works Team Spec 5.0 modified.

The other motor has scribed on it 16tx4 and i've never fitted it before. Its got a green can and revtech stickers on it.

When I bought the ZX-R when I was kid it was second hand so these were the motors I got with it.

I'll have a look at the rear shock tower too, maybe get it as next months 'treat'.


If its a Reedy the name Reedy is plain to see. ARS isnt Reedy. I think it may have been a one man show company in Wales Cliff Evans (I think) who's son (Nicky) won quite a few of the stock events using them but could be wrong. I am DOH!!! as your not talking about brushed but brushless. I will investigate.

Shock tower from the fibrelyte link below in my reply.

[bignick]

Hi,

The motors I have are brushed, they are old but good condition.

Maybe go brushless in the future but not at the moment.

[oosh123]

Iso,

Any idea what the part number is for the spacer washers that were wafer thin and used to push the diff bearings further out on each side of the diff. I had this on my ZX in 89 but doesnt appear on the manual, unless im being blind.


I use the 11x14 shim sets for the diff, if that's what you are referring too.

Part number KYO96645

[oosh123]

I received the pulleys, and currently doing the fittings on the layshaft.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/layshaftdesign2.jpg

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/layshaftexplode.jpg

The B4 Slipper plates & spring havn't arrive yet, so the design is just up to the spacer.

[Welshy40]

Ok now i see what you meant and superb. You will resolve having to worry about the nut coming loose if there is no thread. Great idea.

[oosh123]

Ok now i see what you meant and superb. You will resolve having to worry about the nut coming loose if there is no thread. Great idea.

YEA!!! haha

I am also thinking of bringing the spur a tad bit closer to the centre as well. Do you think that's a good idea?

I should be able to bring it closer to the center by 4mm

[Welshy40]

YEA!!! haha

I am also thinking of bringing the spur a tad bit closer to the centre as well. Do you think that's a good idea?

I should be able to bring it closer to the center by 4mm

May be a problem for me using my cf gearbox as ive screwed into the motor plate and sits just behind the plate. I suggest test the first and see how it goes then get a slight shorter one made and should be spot on.

[oosh123]

Guys,

Would the Lazer ZX-5 steering knuckles and hubs work for the Lazer ZX?

I am debating if I should get the 3racing alloy ones

[alcyon]

I received the pulleys, and currently doing the fittings on the layshaft.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/layshaftdesign2.jpg

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/layshaftexplode.jpg

The B4 Slipper plates & spring havn't arrive yet, so the design is just up to the spacer.
Very very nice, and you did the shading too ! but is there anyway to fit a fixed pulley for the front, instead of a non adjustable one way?

[oosh123]

Very very nice, and you did the shading too ! but is there anyway to fit a fixed pulley for the front, instead of a non adjustable one way?

yes, there are room for 2 fixed pulley. but i am not sure how 4 wheel braking will affect the car. Currently, this set up is with the normal rear wheel braking.

[alcyon]

yes, there are room for 2 fixed pulley. but i am not sure how 4 wheel braking will affect the car. Currently, this set up is with the normal rear wheel braking.
i prefer 4 wheel braking becuase yyou can brake very hard to avoid collisions with other cars.

[Welshy40]

yes, there are room for 2 fixed pulley. but i am not sure how 4 wheel braking will affect the car. Currently, this set up is with the normal rear wheel braking.

As per my pm i meant 112 not 12.

[oosh123]

As per my pm i meant 112 not 12.

Kyosho America still have stock. $7 a pack.

I believe I can get them since I live in Vancouver which is very close to the border.

So do we want 2 fixed pulleys now?? or one fixed pulley and one one-way pulley??

I did some measurements, and in order to fix 2 fixed pulleys, we need to shave 1mm off of one of the pulleys. Easily done with some sand paper at home.... or a dremel....

[oosh123]

As per my pm i meant 112 not 12.

Actually, if you can measure the parts for me, I can get it made and anodize them blue :woot:

[Welshy40]

Ive got four new diff outdrives (basically 4 diffs) with used plates, plate adaptors and large silver washers. No diff gears or screw set or thrust. I cant use them due to no thrust race or screws so these are up for grabs, preferably a trade. Let me know.

[Welshy40]

Actually, if you can measure the parts for me, I can get it made and anodize them blue :woot:

Id recomend buying one and making more as they didnt make many.

[Joe Kimble]

Man I'd love to find a Lazer zx r. Had one when I was 10 and I have great memories with...

[Welshy40]

Man I'd love to find a Lazer zx r. Had one when I was 10 and I have great memories with...

Welcome and yes this car is still highly addictive. Find a reasonable priced one and modify to nowadays and you will have fun showing them all how good it still iss.

[Joe Kimble]

Welcome and yes this car is still highly addictive. Find a reasonable priced one and modify to nowadays and you will have fun showing them all how good it still iss.
Thanks! Well I have been more a nitro guy for the past 15 years. But this car means a lot to me for personal reasons... On the Dec 10th 1993 I almost died from a 50ft drop. Came out of coma about 12 days later and that car was my christmas gift. Used it actively for 5 years, even though I had other cars (i.e. a 1990s Yankee which gave me the addiction to 1/8th nitro off road). Anyway, with moving several times I lost it. As soon as I can put my hands on one I'll buy it for sure! I don't think I would find a NIB one though...

[isobarik]

Guys,

Would the Lazer ZX-5 steering knuckles and hubs work for the Lazer ZX?

I am debating if I should get the 3racing alloy ones

yeah they fit a bit of filing in the arm.....i use them so much easier to find then original

and i would like to have my layshaft with fixed pulleys...

mvh Isobarik

[lllyf]

I always considered lazer zx-s evo were 200 have been produced, but may be wrong, there are only 100 zx-s released,so rare they are！

[Welshy40]

I always considered lazer zx-s evo were 200 have been produced, but may be wrong, there are only 100 zx-s released,so rare they are！

More like 300 zxs, 200 evo's. Not including prototypes.

[lllyf]

the printed paper with my evo, 39900Yen is including sell fees and shipping cost in Japan, ordered at 07/24/2000, sell in 09/2000.
the Japanese“生产台数100台限定"meaning 100 limited

http://img.rcfans.com/album/201204/09/000203bldamllopqgpjakj.jpg

http://img.rcfans.com/album/201204/09/000211j1h1kmneh4fnn2hn.jpg

http://img.rcfans.com/album/201204/09/00021619k8ggqzobszu4ng.jpg

http://img.rcfans.com/album/201204/09/000220rlchl9etkzq4j9c8.jpg

[Welshy40]

They made more. Tower Hobbies sold 100 as well. I found this out when i snapped my chassis number 144 and had it replaced. Only 500 in total were sold of the zxs series, 200 of the evo and 300 zxs. Still what can we say about this car other than its a designers wet dream, brilliant yet simple to run and maintain. I still race mine now but after strengthening the front gearbox side panels and changing the kick up plate to carbon fibre and having an alloy shock tower made. Its almost as strong as the zxr now. Do you still have yours? Do you race yours and do atlas still sell spares as im in need of the diff outdrives as mine have worn out.

[lllyf]

Oh I understand. 100 in Japan and 100 overseas. my box number is 009.Yes, I have two evos one near mint and one light used. I like kyosho carbon fiber productions they look awesome. but kyosho seen unwilling equip carbon chassis in standard 1:10 offroad kit. before zxs just turbo optima mid special only. just options parts.
I still a lazer zx lover although do not run it. I love kyosho lazer's simple design but has special charm.I don't know why in market there are lot of optimas & optima mids but hardly find lazer kit and parts.

[oosh123]

Sorry Alcyon and ISO.

Since my current funds is very limited for RC. I am only going to make the layshaft with one fixed and one one-way pulley.

Why I am going with this is because after hours of searching for different belt-driven buggy's manuals, which includes Kyosho, Associated, Yokomo, Schmacher, etc, they all have a one-way bearing for the front belt. There has to be a reason why this setup is preferred if so many companies went with it.

If demands are there for the fixed pulleys layshaft setup, I will produce them in the summer.

[Welshy40]

Oh I understand. 100 in Japan and 100 overseas. my box number is 009.Yes, I have two evos one near mint and one light used. I like kyosho carbon fiber productions they look awesome. but kyosho seen unwilling equip carbon chassis in standard 1:10 offroad kit. before zxs just turbo optima mid special only. just options parts.
I still a lazer zx lover although do not run it. I love kyosho lazer's simple design but has special charm.I don't know why in market there are lot of optimas & optima mids but hardly find lazer kit and parts.

Fibre lyte which the link to the website is below have been given all zx, zxr flat chassis and shock tower, L brace and steering plates and all zxs as well by me so all but the alloy plate which can be bought from ebay.

[alcyon]

Sorry Alcyon and ISO.

Since my current funds is very limited for RC. I am only going to make the layshaft with one fixed and one one-way pulley.

Why I am going with this is because after hours of searching for different belt-driven buggy's manuals, which includes Kyosho, Associated, Yokomo, Schmacher, etc, they all have a one-way bearing for the front belt. There has to be a reason why this setup is preferred if so many companies went with it.

If demands are there for the fixed pulleys layshaft setup, I will produce them in the summer.
bro, its up to you if you want to try to make the shaft, but the one i am making is still pending the prototype, though its taking a long time, it will come out eventually. you could either wait for mine or try your shaft with the one way.

[Welshy40]

All I can say is having two different designs makes this more fun, after all we all put our own idea into a design dont we and thats half the fun.

Now that I have designed the rear gearbox and believe me it looks stunning, and will post pics once my pivot block has been drilled and a copper tube has been cut, glued into and fitted. Its a CF wet dream. All I need now is a layshaft to go into it so I can fully test. :woot::thumbsup:

[Joe Kimble]

Hi guys, So since I can't find a NIB ZXR I am going to try to put one together, and maybe get the carbon parts from Fiber Lyte.

What is your opinion on these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190664139679?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251037729560?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Thanks,
Joe.

[lllyf]

Hi guys, So since I can't find a NIB ZXR I am going to try to put one together, and maybe get the carbon parts from Fiber Lyte.

What is your opinion on these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190664139679?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251037729560?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Thanks,
Joe.


From these years NIB version lazer zx zxr so hard to find even than other rare kyosho vintage cars, the price rising so high.

[Joe Kimble]

From these years NIB version lazer zx zxr so hard to find even than other rare kyosho vintage cars, the price rising so high.
Yes I agree :cry: so what is your opinion on the 2 auctions I pasted a link of?

[oosh123]

Yes I agree :cry: so what is your opinion on the 2 auctions I pasted a link of?

It depends if you are getting one in a hurry or not. Since Welshy will soon come out with his new CF rear gear box, and I will bring in my new CF front gear box; plus Alcyon and I are making a new layshaft, almost all of the parts on my lazer is not from the original kit.

If you are not in a hurry and cash is not a problem and you want something better than the original kit, I say wait for the up coming items and build yourself a Lazer zxrs.

[Joe Kimble]

It depends if you are getting one in a hurry or not. Since Welshy will soon come out with his new CF rear gear box, and I will bring in my new CF front gear box; plus Alcyon and I are making a new layshaft, almost all of the parts on my lazer is not from the original kit.

If you are not in a hurry and cash is not a problem and you want something better than the original kit, I say wait for the up coming items and build yourself a Lazer zxrs.
Ahum, how can I say.... ABSOLUTELY! My resources aren't unlimited but I am NO lowballer.

I will stay tuned.

[oosh123]

Ahum, how can I say.... ABSOLUTELY! My resources aren't unlimited but I am NO lowballer.

I will stay tuned.

So, are you going to wait? or get the ones in the auction??

[Joe Kimble]

So, are you going to wait? or get the ones in the auction??
I probably will start with whatever I can get in bits and pieces, but will stay opened to what you guys have. I have been going through this thread where I saw many interesting things and learned a lot about this car and it's evolution.

What do you have in mind? I woud be happy to start a project and post photos and comments here... That could be fun.

[lllyf]

I love original kit zx or zxr even zx-s, but I am very interested in all option parts for lazers
I have 3 zxr nib:thumbsup:
http://img.rcfans.com/album/201203/04/23174066696br6qdr9jyd6.jpg

[Joe Kimble]

Wow. I don't assume you would sell one to me?

[Joe Kimble]

It would mean a lot, really, I have heavy history with this car.

And we could do an upgrade project to share here...

[lllyf]

Wow. I don't assume you would sell one to me?
I have two zxr mk2 nib, you can PM me please.

[Joe Kimble]

I have two zxr mk2 nib, you can PM me please.
Ok, I'll do that.

[Welshy40]

Hi guys, So since I can't find a NIB ZXR I am going to try to put one together, and maybe get the carbon parts from Fiber Lyte.

What is your opinion on these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190664139679?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251037729560?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Thanks,
Joe.

Joe,

Id buy the second one and then slowly fix it, then upgrade it when the time is right for you. The reason so many items are still available is because i wanted to carry on racing this car so found companies that would and makes life a bit easier to make it at your own pace. Kamtec (zxs with undertray and parma tomcat shell without undertray) and fibre lyte (all chassis varieties, shock towers, steering plates, L braces, servo plate, soon to be pivot blocks, lipo tray and soon to be the original tub chassis) links are below.

[Joe Kimble]

Joe,

Id buy the second one and then slowly fix it, then upgrade it when the time is right for you. The reason so many items are still available is because i wanted to carry on racing this car so found companies that would and makes life a bit easier to make it at your own pace. Kamtec (zxs with undertray and parma tomcat shell without undertray) and fibre lyte (all chassis varieties, shock towers, steering plates, L braces, servo plate, soon to be pivot blocks, lipo tray and soon to be the original tub chassis) links are below.
Ok. Thanks a lot for the advice!

[olefiloux]

It depends if you are getting one in a hurry or not. Since Welshy will soon come out with his new CF rear gear box, and I will bring in my new CF front gear box; plus Alcyon and I are making a new layshaft, almost all of the parts on my lazer is not from the original kit.

If you are not in a hurry and cash is not a problem and you want something better than the original kit, I say wait for the up coming items and build yourself a Lazer zxrs.

:o:wub

If one of you guys could just make a non official ZXS, i'll be very happy.
In your opinion, Will it be necessary to go from a ZX or all items could be baught separatly!?

This car is amazing.... just sad that the ZXS was produced in the time where RC wasn't one of my interest...

[Joe Kimble]

I guys!

So here's the news: Yunfei (lllyf (http://www.oople.com/forums/member.php?u=2575)) has kindly accepted to sell me his NIB Lazer ZXR MK II. :-) Thank you Yunfei!

I have also found a mint Futaba Magnum PCM 1024 (75Mhz model) which was my dream remote when I was 10. I had an attack R with the car at that time. I could use my M11 now but it just doesn't feel right.

Anyway, so once I have received all the items (Car, remote, Tekin 420-g2 esc, a 10x2 brushed motor) I will built it. I will gradually post pics of the progression with comments until it is done.
This is involving quite an amount of money so I won't upgrade it right away. But I do plan on upgrading to carbon parts in the future as well as the recommended upgrades I have seen in this thread (yes I went through the whole thing lol).

But I wish to keep the following things in their original state in the car:
- The wheels and tires
- The body, which I plan on painting in it's original colors, not custom
- The wing
- The wing mount
- I would like to keep the exact same design for the front shock towers, so I wonder if it is possible for Fyber-Lite to make the exact same piece as the stock one but in Carbon Fiber...
- The original golden shocks

I will be happy to share this with you since we share the same passion for this car. This is going to be fun! :thumbsup:

[Welshy40]

Fibre lyte do every design for this car so look on their website, i think you will be surprised with what they sell.

Wheels may be hard to come buy, so i use the Annsman Mad Rat 2wd front and rear wheels. They are the same dimensions but look much nicer and seem stronger.

Gold shocks are also hard to find but there are equaliser shocks on ebay and they were sold with the last zxrr and are a good shock.

Why not go brushless? Stick an 7.5 or 8.5 in and that means almost zero maintenance, as brushed needed constant work. Serco, id recommend the futaba S9551 and performs as well as a 9401 which is what i use in my zxs.

[Welshy40]

:o:wub

If one of you guys could just make a non official ZXS, i'll be very happy.
In your opinion, Will it be necessary to go from a ZX or all items could be baught separatly!?

This car is amazing.... just sad that the ZXS was produced in the time where RC wasn't one of my interest...

Regarding above about the ZXS. Well I cant supply the diffs or ujs, castor blocks or knuckle arms or rear hubs, tie rods or bearing, ball joints or centre chassis posts but can supply a new gearbox for the front, a new gearbox plastic bottom and new CF side plates plus new CF brace, possibly a prototype or used rear plastic top deck holder, a new CF top deck and new CF chassis as well as a new blue alloy kick up plate, oh and a new front and rear belt and a new LA11 layshaft pulley and rarer still the alloy pulley one way and a new set of wishbones and CF pivot plates, CF front and rear shock towers and CF steering plate and steering and I do have a brass rear alloy shock tower mount as well and bodyshell and undertray repo from Kamtec and gear cover. I think I also have a motor plate as well and pivot blocks but am unsure if new or used.

I dont have spare any LA112 or diffs, or a hyperclutch but can also supply a ZX layshaft, ZX hub, and plates.

If interested let me know but be warned its still going to be around the £400 mark not including postage.

[Joe Kimble]

Fibre lyte do every design for this car so look on their website, i think you will be surprised with what they sell.

Wheels may be hard to come buy, so i use the Annsman Mad Rat 2wd front and rear wheels. They are the same dimensions but look much nicer and seem stronger.

Gold shocks are also hard to find but there are equaliser shocks on ebay and they were sold with the last zxrr and are a good shock.

Why not go brushless? Stick an 7.5 or 8.5 in and that means almost zero maintenance, as brushed needed constant work. Serco, id recommend the futaba S9551 and performs as well as a 9401 which is what i use in my zxs.
Hi! I will go brushless at some point but for now I would like to have a setup that is close to the one I had back then... But I guess we ll see as we go.
I do have question though. What kind/brand of pinion can I use for the 10x2T motor? I would need 16 or 17teeth max, I think. Do you think contemporary kyosho pinions will fit ok on the spur?

[oosh123]

Regarding above about the ZXS. Well I cant supply the diffs or ujs, castor blocks or knuckle arms or rear hubs, tie rods or bearing, ball joints or centre chassis posts but can supply a new gearbox for the front, a new gearbox plastic bottom and new CF side plates plus new CF brace, possibly a prototype or used rear plastic top deck holder, a new CF top deck and new CF chassis as well as a new blue alloy kick up plate, oh and a new front and rear belt and a new LA11 layshaft pulley and rarer still the alloy pulley one way and a new set of wishbones and CF pivot plates, CF front and rear shock towers and CF steering plate and steering and I do have a brass rear alloy shock tower mount as well and bodyshell and undertray repo from Kamtec and gear cover. I think I also have a motor plate as well and pivot blocks but am unsure if new or used.

I dont have spare any LA112 or diffs, or a hyperclutch but can also supply a ZX layshaft, ZX hub, and plates.

If interested let me know but be warned its still going to be around the £400 mark not including postage.


Just wanted to add that over here in north america, Kyosho america still carries these items for the ZXS:

LA116 - Center Oneway Pully - $13
LA114 - Front Belt - $7
LA128-4 - Front Hub Carrier 4 degrees - $8
LA128-7 - Front Hub Carrier 7 degrees - $8
LA124 - Stabilizer Parts Set - $5
LA108 - Plate Set - $4
LA107 - Rear Bulk Set $2
LA104 - Suspension Arm Set (Graphite) - $9
LA112 - Transmission Post Set - $7
LA105 - Upper Deck - $30

[Welshy40]

Just wanted to add that over here in north america, Kyosho america still carries these items for the ZXS:

LA116 - Center Oneway Pully - $13
LA114 - Front Belt - $7
LA128-4 - Front Hub Carrier 4 degrees - $8
LA128-7 - Front Hub Carrier 7 degrees - $8
LA124 - Stabilizer Parts Set - $5
LA108 - Plate Set - $4
LA107 - Rear Bulk Set $2
LA104 - Suspension Arm Set (Graphite) - $9
LA112 - Transmission Post Set - $7
LA105 - Upper Deck - $30

Problem is unless you live there they wont sell to you. No logik especially if no one buys .

[Welshy40]

Hi! I will go brushless at some point but for now I would like to have a setup that is close to the one I had back then... But I guess we ll see as we go.
I do have question though. What kind/brand of pinion can I use for the 10x2T motor? I would need 16 or 17teeth max, I think. Do you think contemporary kyosho pinions will fit ok on the spur?

All depends on car, if zx then its .6 but I would advise buying my spur from rw racing as its 48dp and use an 18 or 19 pinion. If the car is a zxr its 48dp anyway. If emailing or calling as for the zxr spur gear and is down to what design, one has hexes for using the associated slipper pads or the other design is without and is more suitable for the zx ball diff.

[Joe Kimble]

All depends on car, if zx then its .6 but I would advise buying my spur from rw racing as its 48dp and use an 18 or 19 pinion. If the car is a zxr its 48dp anyway. If emailing or calling as for the zxr spur gear and is down to what design, one has hexes for using the associated slipper pads or the other design is without and is more suitable for the zx ball diff.

What do you mean by .6?

[Welshy40]

What do you mean by .6?

The lazer zx spur and pinion were 0.6dp and the zxr onwards were 48dp. 48dp was not widely used in the 80's in kyosho models.

[Joe Kimble]

The lazer zx spur and pinion were 0.6dp and the zxr onwards were 48dp. 48dp was not widely used in the 80's in kyosho models.
Oh I see. This is a NIB Zxr so I can go on and use this one I guess:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1460_232/products_id/151834/n/Kyosho-1-48-Pitch-Steel-Pinion-Gear-18T

[Joe Kimble]

Just wanted to add that over here in north america, Kyosho america still carries these items for the ZXS:

LA116 - Center Oneway Pully - $13
LA114 - Front Belt - $7
LA128-4 - Front Hub Carrier 4 degrees - $8
LA128-7 - Front Hub Carrier 7 degrees - $8
LA124 - Stabilizer Parts Set - $5
LA108 - Plate Set - $4
LA107 - Rear Bulk Set $2
LA104 - Suspension Arm Set (Graphite) - $9
LA112 - Transmission Post Set - $7
LA105 - Upper Deck - $30

Thanks, that's good to know!

[Welshy40]

Oh I see. This is a NIB Zxr so I can go on and use this one I guess:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1460_232/products_id/151834/n/Kyosho-1-48-Pitch-Steel-Pinion-Gear-18T

Yup thats perfect for your car.

[Joe Kimble]

Ok :-)
So I should have all the items within the next 15 days. As soon as I have everything I'll start a topic like Ema did, and post pics as I go. It's going to be nice to build a ZXR in the original way (apart from the fact that I'll use a lipo battery).

[Welshy40]

Ok :-)
So I should have all the items within the next 15 days. As soon as I have everything I'll start a topic like Ema did, and post pics as I go. It's going to be nice to build a ZXR in the original way (apart from the fact that I'll use a lipo battery).

You should just add it on this thread as you go, makes it easier for everyone to see it as this is a popular thread. Looking forward to it.

[Joe Kimble]

You should just add it on this thread as you go, makes it easier for everyone to see it as this is a popular thread. Looking forward to it.

You're right, and of course it is here that the discussions about these cars happen. But with time the building itself and the corresponding photos with drown in the flood of pages of this topic which will make the original building process from A to Z less accessible to people who would like to view it... I know that I really enjoy going through Ema's topic "A Lazer Zx-r for racing", since it's short and shows the evolution of the project, picture by picture. :thumbsup:

So maybe there should be a dedicated topic for the project (a bit like a showroom), but all related questions and discussions would happen here (I would post the related pics here too anyway).

No?

[Welshy40]

Yes i suppose you could put the link of your build on here.

[Welshy40]

Right i tried and redesigned the pivot block and drilled it through the grain but was not in the correct places for the holes. Ive given up and am now cutting a shock tower mount in half and filing each side down to fit inside the gearbox. Bit annoyed about this. I think maybe a new pivot block is needed as well as all of mine are damaged.

[Welshy40]

Ok done. As my alloy rear pivot blocks are bent in knocked straightish and drilled a hole in the middle. I added a 2.8mm spacer and filed a flat spot on the pole which goes across my gearbox above the pivot block so it fits flush with the washer and the drilled a hole thru the middle of the pole and screwed together and fits perfectly without and belt touching issues.

Whats needed is a new pivot block with a centre indent at the bottom centre as well as a screw hole so a lock nut can be placed within the pivot block.

[Joe Kimble]

Ok done. As my alloy rear pivot blocks are bent in knocked straightish and drilled a hole in the middle. I added a 2.8mm spacer and filed a flat spot on the pole which goes across my gearbox above the pivot block so it fits flush with the washer and the drilled a hole thru the middle of the pole and screwed together and fits perfectly without and belt touching issues.

Whats needed is a new pivot block with a centre indent at the bottom centre as well as a screw hole so a lock nut can be placed within the pivot block.
I'm not sure I understand what you're doing. could you post a pic or 2?

[olefiloux]

Just for information.. is there a lot of ZX R parts fitting ZX S? or are they just different?
I can have a ZXR but not sure to be so interesting for my ZXS quest with Welshy parts......:confused::wub

[Welshy40]

I'm not sure I understand what you're doing. could you post a pic or 2?

A few of us are redesigning the rear gearbox. Im starting it off and have done away with the plastic rear gearbox casing and now have in place two carbon fibre plates (pictures are several pages back on page 142) and have filed down the rear mount and designed the CF plates to fit into it so you can bolt the rear of the gearbox to the mount directly and the front mount has been the issue. I have used the pivot block and the pole that is a support between the two CF plates is being used as a mounting point onto the pivot block.

Now all I need is a layshaft and then game on.:thumbsup:

[Welshy40]

Just for information.. is there a lot of ZX R parts fitting ZX S? or are they just different?
I can have a ZXR but not sure to be so interesting for my ZXS quest with Welshy parts......:confused::wub

For the ZXS then the wishbones, fornt and rear hubs, steering (plate is slightly different but you could use a ZX one), slipper and layshaft is the ZXRR hyperclutch, lay shaft pulleys are the same as the ZX and ZXR, Ujs are the same as well as the hexes and the diffs are the same. Rest is not but chassis, top deck, front and rear shock towers, servo plate (I designed that one to use a kimbro serv saver) steering plate and gearbox plates and brace are all available at fibrelyte (link below) and bodyshell and gear cover and undertray at Kamtec (link below) but doubt youd find any of the other items you need to make the rest.

[olefiloux]

Thanks Welshy.. so i understand that its' better to go from a ZXR.... and to wait your "carbon gear box"...:wub

[olefiloux]

Well here it is, only one screw hole in roughly 1mm out of place but hey, its not bad for a second attempt. As you can see the two areas where the gearbox will bolt to the chassis, one on top of the pivot block which I still have to design and the rear tower mount where its almost perfect.

This is going to be a first as I don't recall seeing a car with a total cf gearbox. Comments welcome.:thumbsup:

Did you already run this carbon gear box??
Don't you think it could be "noisy" ( hard stuff and vibrations...)

thanks a lot.

[oosh123]

my version of layshaft's design should be ready tomorrow.

a prototype should be able to be manufactured by the end of the week.

There will be a few changes to my original design as upon recieving the B4 slipper plates, I found out that the B4 uses a larger diameter shaft.


Welshy, why don't you try counter sinking the bottom of the pivot block & tap your filed shaft. This way, your can mount your pivot block on your gear box from the bottom first, then mount the lower chassis to the pivot block.

[Ema]

You're right, and of course it is here that the discussions about these cars happen. But with time the building itself and the corresponding photos with drown in the flood of pages of this topic which will make the original building process from A to Z less accessible to people who would like to view it... I know that I really enjoy going through Ema's topic "A Lazer Zx-r for racing", since it's short and shows the evolution of the project, picture by picture. :thumbsup:

So maybe there should be a dedicated topic for the project (a bit like a showroom), but all related questions and discussions would happen here (I would post the related pics here too anyway).

No?

I'm glad that you enjoy my build thread :thumbsup: .
Building that Lazer was a sort of challenge because I still think that this is a great car. I like running my ride among modern cars especially when some one recognize that this is a 20 years old buggy and it is still nice and fast :woot: .

Looking forward to see your build thread and have fun with yor buggy !!!!

Bye
Ema

[Welshy40]

my version of layshaft's design should be ready tomorrow.

a prototype should be able to be manufactured by the end of the week.

There will be a few changes to my original design as upon recieving the B4 slipper plates, I found out that the B4 uses a larger diameter shaft.


Welshy, why don't you try counter sinking the bottom of the pivot block & tap your filed shaft. This way, your can mount your pivot block on your gear box from the bottom first, then mount the lower chassis to the pivot block.

Cant wait for the layshaft, as I need one to fully test my gearbox.

Looks is what I am after as well so rather have a cut out in the middle (like a U bend in the centre of the bottom of the pivot block so a nut can go in there and the small headed screw will go in at the top through the pole stiffener so will be more appealing to the eye.

Im doing a cad drawing and will JPEG it for you. Maybe you could get an alloy one made.

[Welshy40]

Did you already run this carbon gear box??
Don't you think it could be "noisy" ( hard stuff and vibrations...)

thanks a lot.

I run the same type of gearbox on my Lazer ZX-S and is not noisy at all and looks superb. In fact the tensioners in the gearbox give longevity to the belt so it will last much much longer than the original gearbox layout and will be able to with stand much more power so a more powerful motor. Im testing with a 4.5 motor when I can.

[olefiloux]

Great to read this. And for the front box, is there something special to wait, or zxr front gear box is what i can have best?

[Welshy40]

Great to read this. And for the front box, is there something special to wait, or zxr front gear box is what i can have best?

At the moment we are developing the rear, however a design has been created for the front by Oosh123 but what I recomend doing is first of all get your car built in good condition and when parts do become available then you are more than welcome to upgrade and enjoy.

[alcyon]

i checked with the machinist last week and he says he will check with his man. which ususally means the guy did not do anyhting throughout this whole time and he will probably rush to get it done for me...hopefully, well thats what happened with my Diff outdrives i ordered the last time for my TC.

[Welshy40]

Guys, ok here are my pics of what I have done so far. FYI the chassis is the same one I broke in January but have copied the ZX-S design and made my own three piece chassis, ok badly but at least I can test before the chassis totally dies. There is flex but minimal at the moment. May do until my tubs done.

Still I couldn't take pics of the pivot block holding it in however its all fitted flush to the chassis and fells quite nice. There is freedom in the drive train and I had to use a shim on either side of the rear diff to get it perfectly balanced and fitted. Only issue now is the slipper will slip big time so now need a layshaft to fit so hoping that ones available soon for some serious testing.:thumbsup:

Oh yeah, blue looks stunning on this Oosh123

[oosh123]

Design Phrase Done!

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot004.jpg

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot005.jpg

[oosh123]

Guys, ok here are my pics of what I have done so far. FYI the chassis is the same one I broke in January but have copied the ZX-S design and made my own three piece chassis, ok badly but at least I can test before the chassis totally dies. There is flex but minimal at the moment. May do until my tubs done.

Still I couldn't take pics of the pivot block holding it in however its all fitted flush to the chassis and fells quite nice. There is freedom in the drive train and I had to use a shim on either side of the rear diff to get it perfectly balanced and fitted. Only issue now is the slipper will slip big time so now need a layshaft to fit so hoping that ones available soon for some serious testing.:thumbsup:

Oh yeah, blue looks stunning on this Oosh123


Welshy,

That looks awesome! you sure we can't use the 4 holes at the bottom??

Hopefully I will get my prototype at the end of this week.

[Naushad]

That looks really good!! Well done!

Will there be any issues with weight/distribution or will the final car be comparable to the ZXR?

[Welshy40]

Welshy,

That looks awesome! you sure we can't use the 4 holes at the bottom??

Hopefully I will get my prototype at the end of this week.

You mean the chassis, no room due to the belt and zero space for manovering anything in so has to be the pivot block holes. Fyi ive redesigned the cf gearbox plates and removed some uneeded holes. Also im going to get the cf pivot blocks right and fitted along with cf motor plate. As this will be the first may as well go ott and get the very first made tub chassis as well.

[Welshy40]

That looks really good!! Well done!

Will there be any issues with weight/distribution or will the final car be comparable to the ZXR?

Weight should be roughly the same as its a zx in carbon fibre, just stronger and better due to being able to keep tension on the rear belt so giving a much longer belt life. With slipper clutch from oosh123 fitted the car gains half a lap or more in a race.

[oosh123]

Weight should be roughly the same as its a zx in carbon fibre, just stronger and better due to being able to keep tension on the rear belt so giving a much longer belt life. With slipper clutch from oosh123 fitted the car gains half a lap or more in a race.

Really? it will gain that much?? You can easily be the top 40 then =)

About your open rear gear box. How easy is it to fit a cover for it? As there is no indoor carpet here in Vancouver. I need to protect the gear box from the environment of dirt, sand, and dust.

[Joe Kimble]

Welsh your car looks really sweet! Oosh nice work as well! :thumbsup:

[Welshy40]

Really? it will gain that much?? You can easily be the top 40 then =)

About your open rear gear box. How easy is it to fit a cover for it? As there is no indoor carpet here in Vancouver. I need to protect the gear box from the environment of dirt, sand, and dust.

Its up there now but the rear belt cant handle the power and slips so hopefully should give at least half a lap more in a race due to being able to use all the power available.

Clear lexan folded and double sided taped to the cf gearbox should do the trick. I know the americans and japenese didnt with the zxs and neither did i in pouring rain and hope this gearbox will be the same. The only other suggestion is a really well cut shell and undertray so a perfect fit and plenty of velcro.

[Naushad]

Its up there now but the rear belt cant handle the power and slips so hopefully should give at least half a lap more in a race due to being able to use all the power available.

Clear lexan folded and double sided taped to the cf gearbox should do the trick. I know the americans and japenese didnt with the zxs and neither did i in pouring rain and hope this gearbox will be the same. The only other suggestion is a really well cut shell and undertray so a perfect fit and plenty of velcro.

Well take an example from the Trf 511 and Yokomo Bx. I have a Bx and the stock build suggests small squares of clear lexan to cover gear box front and behind.

[Welshy40]

Well take an example from the Trf 511 and Yokomo Bx. I have a Bx and the stock build suggests small squares of clear lexan to cover gear box front and behind.

And that idea came from Kyosho, as the ZX-S has to have clear lexan for the front and rear of the gearboxes, which is a simple fit once you have bent the lexan first to fit around. Lots of similarities on the Tamiya 511 that appear to be copied from Kyosho with exception of the slop on the tamiya, wheras there is vertually none on the ZX or ZXR.

[Welshy40]

Design Phrase Done!

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot004.jpg

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot005.jpg

Hurry up and test it, im wondering if it will fit to be honest as the design has two gaps between the bearing and the pulley so am hoping it fits with zero movement left or right, with enough freedom to give the car plenty of free movement before it stops (no motor pinion attached to do this). Makes the car very efficient and means more run time.

Let us know how it goes.:thumbsup:

[Naushad]

And that idea came from Kyosho, as the ZX-S has to have clear lexan for the front and rear of the gearboxes, which is a simple fit once you have bent the lexan first to fit around. Lots of similarities on the Tamiya 511 that appear to be copied from Kyosho with exception of the slop on the tamiya, wheras there is vertually none on the ZX or ZXR.

That's interesting to know...I only came to know of the ZX-S recently.

Funny that the TRF511 and Yokomo Bx are so similar. The Yoko came before the TRF511 aswell.

Anyway, why wasn't the ZX-S pushed forward despite it's obvious potential and pedigree?

[bignick]

The carbon rear gearbox and the new shaft both look great.

The amount of time and effort (and money by the looks of things) you guys have put into the ZX-R (and derivatives) is amazing.

[oosh123]

Hurry up and test it, im wondering if it will fit to be honest as the design has two gaps between the bearing and the pulley so am hoping it fits with zero movement left or right, with enough freedom to give the car plenty of free movement before it stops (no motor pinion attached to do this). Makes the car very efficient and means more run time.

Let us know how it goes.:thumbsup:

well, the fixed pulley will be mount on with a grub nut (set screw), while the one way (front pulley) is to be stayed in play with the e-clips. That should prevent anything from moving around.

The follow picture should clear some uncertainties:

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot006.jpg

[Welshy40]

well, the fixed pulley will be mount on with a grub nut (set screw), while the one way (front pulley) is to be stayed in play with the e-clips. That should prevent anything from moving around.

The follow picture should clear some uncertainties:

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/ScreenShot006.jpg

Still puzzled. If using on my gearbox it will move as the bearing is supporting it all in place so may make more sense seeing it prebuilt before you put into your car

[Welshy40]

That's interesting to know...I only came to know of the ZX-S recently.

Funny that the TRF511 and Yokomo Bx are so similar. The Yoko came before the TRF511 aswell.

Anyway, why wasn't the ZX-S pushed forward despite it's obvious potential and pedigree?

The car was very competitive on clay and dust and won the japanese nationals ahead of reigning worlds champion Masami. Also made the worlds A final as well but kyosho opted for shaft drive as everyone was moving in that direction but did after pressure from loyal supporters in japan they released a limited number specifically for them, tower hobbies also managed to get 100 as well. Also wasnt cost effective as each was £500 a piece so can understand why it didnt get made. The car after the zxs was half zxs (front) and rear was gear drive train, and wasnt any good.

[Welshy40]

The carbon rear gearbox and the new shaft both look great.

The amount of time and effort (and money by the looks of things) you guys have put into the ZX-R (and derivatives) is amazing.

Cheers, this is after the shock towers, L brace, top decks, chassis' and my best design to date, the tub chassis. Not including getting kamtec to make molds for the lazer zxs shell and undertray and recentlly tomcat shell.

[bignick]

No worries, The forum has been/is great reference material and my ZX-R is turning out to be shockingly average compared to your cars (though some of Fibre Lyte's parts will most likely be finding their way on to my car).

I check ebay daily for parts and cars.

I think the plan for my car is to get it running correctly, so everything is how it should be and work from there. I have tried to rebuild my car so I have a good solid base to work from and then see where it takes me.

I don't have any real plans to race my ZX-R but I also don't want it to be shoddy like some of the bashed up RC cars you see the kids ruining in my street from time to time.

I think the next mods to mine will the rear shock tower like you suggested and one up and running I like the look of the RW Racing spur gear and changing to ball cups on the steering as they look more modern. Oh! and paint the shell, will be doing that myself so will be keeping it simple.

Will keep you posted and provide pics.

[rondoolaa]

Guys, ok here are my pics of what I have done so far. FYI the chassis is the same one I broke in January but have copied the ZX-S design and made my own three piece chassis, ok badly but at least I can test before the chassis totally dies. There is flex but minimal at the moment. May do until my tubs done.

Still I couldn't take pics of the pivot block holding it in however its all fitted flush to the chassis and fells quite nice. There is freedom in the drive train and I had to use a shim on either side of the rear diff to get it perfectly balanced and fitted. Only issue now is the slipper will slip big time so now need a layshaft to fit so hoping that ones available soon for some serious testing.:thumbsup:

Oh yeah, blue looks stunning on this Oosh123



loving the car, oh i wish i had the same rear gearbox housing

[Welshy40]

No worries, The forum has been/is great reference material and my ZX-R is turning out to be shockingly average compared to your cars (though some of Fibre Lyte's parts will most likely be finding their way on to my car).

I check ebay daily for parts and cars.

I think the plan for my car is to get it running correctly, so everything is how it should be and work from there. I have tried to rebuild my car so I have a good solid base to work from and then see where it takes me.

I don't have any real plans to race my ZX-R but I also don't want it to be shoddy like some of the bashed up RC cars you see the kids ruining in my street from time to time.

I think the next mods to mine will the rear shock tower like you suggested and one up and running I like the look of the RW Racing spur gear and changing to ball cups on the steering as they look more modern. Oh! and paint the shell, will be doing that myself so will be keeping it simple.

Will keep you posted and provide pics.

Great. Any difficulties let us know, so we can help.

[Joe Kimble]

Hi guys! So the car is here and I started the assembly of it. Here is a link to the topic:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99011

[Welshy40]

loving the car, oh i wish i had the same rear gearbox housing

Ron,

Hopefully whan the layshafts done i will finish the design by posting on the fibrelyte site for the cf parts. Its the pivot block, alloy poles and lock nut washers that are next on the agenda so whoever wants it can.

[alcyon]

i was expecting a reply form the machinist this week but infortunately my office email is out since monday, and it still may not come back by tommorow which is friday. Oeli, you can contact me through hotmail.
oh yesi finally got the blue steering parts, and installing it was a breeze ! i got rid of bumpsteer almost immediately !

[oosh123]

Just putting everything together.

Thanks for Welshy for the rear gear box.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/Everythingg.jpg

Doesn't it look just like a dead cow?

[SimonW]

That all looks very good. Is that the FS2 suspension mounts in there with the inserts? If so is there any chance you could alter the RF and the FF blocks positions so that you can run the modern arms and suspension pins from the FS2 then i would defo have one of them. It's what I'm trying to do in my spare time.

[Joe Kimble]

Wow oosh nice job.

My car is done, will post the pics tomorrow. I haven't done the body yet though.

[Welshy40]

That all looks very good. Is that the FS2 suspension mounts in there with the inserts? If so is there any chance you could alter the RF and the FF blocks positions so that you can run the modern arms and suspension pins from the FS2 then i would defo have one of them. It's what I'm trying to do in my spare time.

Problem is the block positions are set by the chassis and rear gearbox and the FS2 wishbones are not very strong compared to the zx/zxr versions. We are trying to keep the design as it was but with a few modern touches.

[Welshy40]

Just putting everything together.

Thanks for Welshy for the rear gear box.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/Everythingg.jpg

Doesn't it look just like a dead cow?

Mate, you just get better and better. I did think about your front gearbox yesterday and thought my cars going to be cf crazy with that :-)

[isobarik]

Looking good ossh ....as always ..:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

[Ema]

We are trying to keep the design as it was but with a few modern touches.

Few ?
If sooner or later all the alu and carbon parts posted here will be available i think that we can build a Lazer without any kyosho part at all :woot: :woot: :woot: !!

Bye
Ema

[oosh123]

Few ?
If sooner or later all the alu and carbon parts posted here will be available i think that we can build a Lazer without any kyosho part at all :woot: :woot: :woot: !!

Bye
Ema

Ema, yes that's correct! There might be a chance I will source for titanium or CF arms, but the original ones are strong enough. I have already found a aluminum alternative for LA-1 for the ball diff.

By the way, do any of you want a OT-93 Carbon Fibre moulded bumper? I found a supplier who can mould that perfectly (don't know if the Kyosho word will be on it or not). If I get more than 10 commitments, it could be ~$60 +/- $10 per bumper + shipping.

Fibre-lyte won't make it because they will need to make hundreds of them for their return of investment.

Don't know why these bumper are so rare, but the only one on ebay is selling for $44.95.

[oli4ke]

Just putting everything together.

Thanks for Welshy for the rear gear box.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/Everythingg.jpg

Doesn't it look just like a dead cow?


Looks awesome, nice job!

[Welshy40]

Ema, yes that's correct! There might be a chance I will source for titanium or CF arms, but the original ones are strong enough. I have already found a aluminum alternative for LA-1 for the ball diff.

By the way, do any of you want a OT-93 Carbon Fibre moulded bumper? I found a supplier who can mould that perfectly (don't know if the Kyosho word will be on it or not). If I get more than 10 commitments, it could be ~$60 +/- $10 per bumper + shipping.

Fibre-lyte won't make it because they will need to make hundreds of them for their return of investment.

Don't know why these bumper are so rare, but the only one on ebay is selling for $44.95.

Daft question asking me as you already know the answer. Im going to have cf gearbox, pivot blocks, chassis, top deck, shock towers, steering plate, servo plate, L brace all in cf, so may as well have a bumper as well. :-)

[oosh123]

Daft question asking me as you already know the answer. Im going to have cf gearbox, pivot blocks, chassis, top deck, shock towers, steering plate, servo plate, L brace all in cf, so may as well have a bumper as well. :-)

Including me and Welshy, we have 2 for the CF bumper. I need 8 more people to commit before I order the batch.

[isobarik]

the down side with the avaliable alu diff pulleys are that there only six ball holes may by due to not neaded when drifting i dont know but anyway tamiya

is it the 414 or what ever tamiya maybe the 04 any way they have more holes and they have small delrin insert for the balls and are 32 teeth.

Also if one would like to really dig on the internet Robinson Racing used to make an alu diff pulley for the HPI belt cars BITD RS4 or what ever they are called but they are very rare have just seen one on the bay.

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

the down side with the avaliable alu diff pulleys are that there only six ball holes may by due to not neaded when drifting i dont know but anyway tamiya

is it the 414 or what ever tamiya maybe the 04 any way they have more holes and they have small delrin insert for the balls and are 32 teeth.

Also if one would like to really dig on the internet Robinson Racing used to make an alu diff pulley for the HPI belt cars BITD RS4 or what ever they are called but they are very rare have just seen one on the bay.

mvh Isobarik

Well, it all depends on how many load you are putting into the diff.

More balls = less smooth because there is more surface area, but can handle more load (you cantighten it more)

Less balls = smoother but takes less load.

Since offroads usually want tighter diff in the front, and if you are afraid of over tightening it, then just put it in the rear.

The "Square" 31T Aluminum Pulley I have in front of me have 8 holes for balls. That's 2 holes less then the original one. And once it's assembled, it a lot less sloppy.

[isobarik]

Well, it all depends on how many load you are putting into the diff.

More balls = less smooth because there is more surface area, but can handle more load (you cantighten it more)

Less balls = smoother but takes less load.

Since offroads usually want tighter diff in the front, and if you are afraid of over tightening it, then just put it in the rear.

The "Square" 31T Aluminum Pulley I have in front of me have 8 holes for balls. That's 2 holes less then the original one. And once it's assembled, it a lot less sloppy.

well i guess not as woobly due to ballbering center but on the smooth side i always take more balls since thats what worked when i was driving 1/12

square,superijcon shop and 3 racing i would guess same manufacturer just different distributors and that wont be far of from the truth

any pics of the alu diff pulley with the out drives btw where did you get yourse from ???

mvh isobarik

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

well i guess not as woobly due to ballbering center but on the smooth side i always take more balls since thats what worked when i was driving 1/12

square,superijcon shop and 3 racing i would guess same manufacturer just different distributors and that wont be far of from the truth

any pics of the alu diff pulley with the out drives btw where did you get yourse from ???

mvh isobarik

mvh Isobarik


I dont' have pictures right now, maybe tonight.

Just a side note, I notice you are talking about 32T diff pulley a few times already. I counted and recounted the teeth on my LA-1, there are only 31 teeth.

[Joe Kimble]

I guys! New pics posted in the topic about the assembly of my car...

[Welshy40]

I dont' have pictures right now, maybe tonight.

Just a side note, I notice you are talking about 32T diff pulley a few times already. I counted and recounted the teeth on my LA-1, there are only 31 teeth.

I do have to agree with ISO that the proto diffs i have do have more diff balls than LA1 but are smaller but much smoother

[adam lancia]

3/32" is about as small as you can go without overstressing the assembly. 14 or even 16 balls would be awesome, allowing you to set the diff a little looser without it slipping due to the greater surface area.

[Welshy40]

3/32" is about as small as you can go without overstressing the assembly. 14 or even 16 balls would be awesome, allowing you to set the diff a little looser without it slipping due to the greater surface area.

My diff has two extra balls and are smaller than the original.

[oli4ke]

Ema, yes that's correct! There might be a chance I will source for titanium or CF arms, but the original ones are strong enough. I have already found a aluminum alternative for LA-1 for the ball diff.

By the way, do any of you want a OT-93 Carbon Fibre moulded bumper? I found a supplier who can mould that perfectly (don't know if the Kyosho word will be on it or not). If I get more than 10 commitments, it could be ~$60 +/- $10 per bumper + shipping.

Fibre-lyte won't make it because they will need to make hundreds of them for their return of investment.

Don't know why these bumper are so rare, but the only one on ebay is selling for $44.95.

OT-93 Rare? Are they......?:D
Oosh, now you know the reason why they are so extremely rare, because I have them all......:p;)

[Welshy40]

OT-93 Rare? Are they......?:D
Oosh, now you know the reason why they are so extremely rare, because I have them all......:p;)

Swine...... :-(

[oosh123]

OT-93 Rare? Are they......?:D
Oosh, now you know the reason why they are so extremely rare, because I have them all......:p;)

Well, maybe not rare to you, but it is still rare to us.

I need 8 more commitments for the cf bumper. Anyone interested??

[oli4ke]

Well, maybe not rare to you, but it is still rare to us.

I need 8 more commitments for the cf bumper. Anyone interested??

Yes I'am interested! Also interested in those nice blue belts.....and other parts in the future!

[oli4ke]

Also interested in the rear gearbox from James.....

[isobarik]

I dont' have pictures right now, maybe tonight.

Just a side note, I notice you are talking about 32T diff pulley a few times already. I counted and recounted the teeth on my LA-1, there are only 31 teeth.

damn it was a long time a go i counted them guess i have to recount them.

anyone know where pargu2000 went ??? looking for him on the bay but cant find him...

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

CF bumper update:

Oosh
Welshy
Oli







I need 7 more.

[oli4ke]

CF bumper update:
Oosh
Welshy
Oli
I need 7 more.

I have to ask Kenios and Mr.Ed as well!
Maybe they are interested too.....

[oli4ke]

damn it was a long time a go i counted them guess i have to recount them.

anyone know where pargu2000 went ??? looking for him on the bay but cant find him...

mvh Isobarik

Apparently he is not on ebay anymore but having his own website now , see link below iso!

http://www.pargustore.com/

[Welshy40]

Apparently he is not on ebay anymore but having his own website now , see link below iso!

http://www.pargustore.com/

Ok, now i know who does the pivot blocks

[londonladliam]

CF bumper update:

Oosh
Welshy
Oli







I need 7 more.

add me in to the bumper list

liam

[oosh123]

add me in to the bumper list

liam

Great!

CF bumper update:

Oosh
Welshy
Oli
Liam
6 to go.

[mr. ed]

I have to ask Kenios and Mr.Ed as well!
Maybe they are interested too.....

Sorry, no.
The lazer is a low priority in my book and the standard bumpers i have are plenty strong for shelf abuse.

[Welshy40]

Anyone able to make me a cad drawing (dxf format) of a mk1 motor plate preferably one that has the slots built in for the motor so i can get made in cf and add to our large template list at fibrelyte. I lost my motor plate years ago so cant do it

[isobarik]

Anyone able to make me a cad drawing (dxf format) of a mk1 motor plate preferably one that has the slots built in for the motor so i can get made in cf and add to our large template list at fibrelyte. I lost my motor plate years ago so cant do it

arent they at fibrelyte already ??? deffo if you use the LA-18 ( i think nr )

when i had my made for the zxs they didnt think it was to hold when putting the motor against the carbon due to heat melting the resin ,it hasent melted yet but then again it hasnt gone many meters :thumbsup:


mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

arent they at fibrelyte already ??? deffo if you use the LA-18 ( i think nr )

when i had my made for the zxs they didnt think it was to hold when putting the motor against the carbon due to heat melting the resin ,it hasent melted yet but then again it hasnt gone many meters :thumbsup:


mvh Isobarik

Fibrelyte only have the original designs with a huge gap in the middle where you have to attach a metal plate. I want the one with the slots as I can get this added to their website and then use a metal heatsink in front of the motor to dissapate the heat. I also need to countersink the gearbox holes on the other side of the plate as thats the only way to screw it all together and make it look nice.

Ellis Stafford has used occassionaly a CF plate for his 2wd so does work.

[isobarik]

Fibrelyte only have the original designs with a huge gap in the middle where you have to attach a metal plate. I want the one with the slots as I can get this added to their website and then use a metal heatsink in front of the motor to dissapate the heat. I also need to countersink the gearbox holes on the other side of the plate as thats the only way to screw it all together and make it look nice.

Ellis Stafford has used occassionaly a CF plate for his 2wd so does work.

yeah i also have the slotted motorplate in front but why not just send the mkII plate all the holes are there and so are the slots and he can take the bigger dimension of the files that he has.

have you asked him jast to add the slots from the mkII plate ???

mvh isobarik

[oosh123]

Fibrelyte only have the original designs with a huge gap in the middle where you have to attach a metal plate. I want the one with the slots as I can get this added to their website and then use a metal heatsink in front of the motor to dissapate the heat. I also need to countersink the gearbox holes on the other side of the plate as thats the only way to screw it all together and make it look nice.

Ellis Stafford has used occassionaly a CF plate for his 2wd so does work.

Send Fibre-Lyte this picture and ask them to combine it with the MK1 Motor Plate. They should know what to do.

http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/oosh123/MOTORPLATE-1.jpg

I don't want to send you a DXF because I want Fibre-Lyte to use their dimensions on the slots.

[moth898]

Great!


CF bumper update:
Oosh
Welshy
Oli
Liam
6 to go.


Im in for 2....I decided to keep my bitch

[Welshy40]

Guys, rondola gave me a call and said la11 are on ebay woldwide and if I needed best get my finger out, luckily im going to get some white ones sometime soon so if anyone needs them then get a move o, three are available.

[oosh123]

Guys, rondola gave me a call and said la11 are on ebay woldwide and if I needed best get my finger out, luckily im going to get some white ones sometime soon so if anyone needs them then get a move o, three are available.

I will be using the aluminum pulleys from now on. So, no need for me.

[oosh123]

CF bumper update:
Oosh
Welshy
Oli
Liam
Moth
Moth
4 left.
As soon as I can get 10 orders I can place my order.

Come on guys

[Welshy40]

I will be using the aluminum pulleys from now on. So, no need for me.

Me to, when a layshaft is ready

[isobarik]

Im in for 2....I decided to keep my bitch


way to go moth ....:thumbsup:

btw arent almost every last years semifinal teams eliminated ????

wierd...

mvh isobarik