Lazer zxr

[Welshy40]

Keith and I will talk this week but things have been a bit crazy today so didn't get a chance. Still the tomcat shell is now available.

Out of curiosity my ZXS proto that I haven't used, what would you say I would get for it? £750 for or ? I really have got to sell it or strip it down for spares, so if anyone out there is after one of most probably ten ever made now there is an opportunity to get it.

Picture of this buggy is on page 80 of this thread. I have lowered the costs to the lowest price possible and will go no lower than £600 to your door?

If anyone out there is after one of most probably ten ever made now there is an opportunity to get it. Let me know.

[Welshy40]

Iso,

It turned up today. Cheers :thumbsup:

[isobarik]

good welsh let me know when you need some more.

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Well guys i've done it and designed the simplest belt tensioner imaginable for the ZX and ZXR.

Hope you like :thumbsup:

[rondoolaa]

looks great, is the carbon fibre bit available at fibre lyte and what parts are used for the roller..

[Welshy40]

looks great, is the carbon fibre bit available at fibre lyte and what parts are used for the roller..

Fibre lyte should be able to sell it and kyosho part numbers are (96473 bearings and LA112 post set) but will call fibre lyte to ask if they can add to the pics.

Tensioner and bearings are from a lazer zxs gearbox, the rear belt tensioner.

[isobarik]

Welsh just curios but when i look at the latest video of the zxr i just realize that you dont dress like robert smith from the cure when did you stop doing that ??:thumbsup: Was it the same time as you stopped dress like the singer in dead or alive :lol:

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Cheeky git. Well set up needs a bit of work but am happy with the way its going at the moment. Did you like my belt tensioner?

[rondoolaa]

welshy, where can we view the video's of the lazer ?

thanks

[Welshy40]

Its on this site, you will have to watch all finals to get to the 4wd final.

http://www.rcarena.co.uk/

[isobarik]

Cheeky git. Well set up needs a bit of work but am happy with the way its going at the moment. Did you like my belt tensioner?

Yeah looks awsome .:thumbsup:.shall order one for my zxr ....

but welsh youre battery straps ..they are plastic :confused:

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Yes they are and im using as the width is perfect once the lipos are fitted and stops any movement. Simple solution and cheaper than having to glue two carbon fibre plates together.:thumbsup:

[rondoolaa]

i got these ones coming, less than £2 (they came day after posting this :D )

http://gpmracing.com.hk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3972

[Welshy40]

Same as schumacher, good if using nimh but no good if using box lipos

[Lazer zx-r]

Lazer ZX for sale from garage here on oople. :)

anny one up for restoration?

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77656

[rondoolaa]

yer, i told him via ebay to post it on here, as there are a few lazer fans inc myself on here that may be interested and i cant afford it as i purchased one in last 2 days on ebay, :D

[isobarik]

So welsh been making the streets unsafe the last couple of day seen some stuff on the news.

But have not seen a single guy running away with some NIB Lazer ZXR but then againg they dont axactly grow on trees.

Have you bought the Swansea shirt ??? you know PL.

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

i got this one delivered today,

i purchased it mainly for the alloy parts,

it has an alloy front gearbox too, :)

does anyone know who made the rear arms,
and what type of spur + shaft is it, looks like its all nylon, is it a slipper, etc also has a white la11 part inside it, although looks quite worn,

[isobarik]

Looking good ron nice find but it was a misstake posting the pics here ...

Now i know what easy to comby parts that you have to ship me ...mohaaaa...:woot:

Btw the white axle is from RW i guess one piece still avaliable i think if you ask him.

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

welsh got an really awsome task for you .

The bottom gearbox on the zxs the plastic one that you have in brass.
The distance of the holes is the same as on the zxr gearbox.

get the picture ????

La 33 in carbon should be possible.

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

Looking good ron nice find but it was a misstake posting the pics here ...

Now i know what easy to comby parts that you have to ship me ...mohaaaa...:woot:

Btw the white axle is from RW i guess one piece still avaliable i think if you ask him.

mvh Isobarik


i knew you would say that, lol,

i ummmddd and aarrddd about posting it on here as i guessed you may say that, lol

i only purchased it for the rear arms and all the alloy parts, cost me £59.99 inc postage

just totally stripped it down and a few of the parts arn't as good as i hoped they would be, ie: the front gearbox holes that the screws go into on the bottom of chassis need redoing, might have to get them alloy welded (filled in) then re drill and thread the holes

[kek23k]

Like iso said the layshaft is an RW item, I can also tell you that the wishbones are Andys, they came in white originally. I had the front ones, they were lighter than the ZX ones and a bit stronger (well they were supposed to be!)

[Welshy40]

Like iso said the layshaft is an RW item, I can also tell you that the wishbones are Andys, they came in white originally. I had the front ones, they were lighter than the ZX ones and a bit stronger (well they were supposed to be!)

Weaker, I broke a set. Zx were the strongest.

[Welshy40]

So welsh been making the streets unsafe the last couple of day seen some stuff on the news.

But have not seen a single guy running away with some NIB Lazer ZXR but then againg they dont axactly grow on trees.

Have you bought the Swansea shirt ??? you know PL.

mvh Isobarik

Cheeky sod, matey I moved from london but kept the peace until I left. Still shows u how retarded these idiots are, riot over an idiot who got shot dead whilst trying to have a shoot out with the police. He deserved it and have zero sympathy for Idiots playing with guns.

They stole everything but they will get caught. Havent bought the shirt but why would i, swansea wasnt a nice place even when I was drunk.

[Welshy40]

welsh got an really awsome task for you .

The bottom gearbox on the zxs the plastic one that you have in brass.
The distance of the holes is the same as on the zxr gearbox.

get the picture ????

La 33 in carbon should be possible.

mvh Isobarik

Iso, ive already designed it and youll have to wait for the mold to be made. The zxs one is too long so no it doesnt fit. Next year I intend to start on the whole gearbox design including cf sides and have already made designs in my head and discussed with my mold specialist friend Matt. Im already there matey, and at least you know when im finished it will be perfect and a work of art.

[rondoolaa]

can you ask matt if he has thought any more about making some front gearboxes for me and some la11

[Welshy40]

He will once he gets the current contract sorted, unfortunately racing items are not his priority at the moment but should be free hopefully within a few months.

[rondoolaa]

He will once he gets the current contract sorted, unfortunately racing items are not his priority at the moment but should be free hopefully within a few months.

nice one, i'd be up for about 3 of each if thats ok with him to get the order started, lol

[adam lancia]

Just Heli-Coil those holes in the front gearbox Ron, way easier than getting them filled and retapping them. Here's a link: http://www.helicoil.in/pdf/HeliCoil%20Catalogue.pdf and some other info here: http://www.emhartamericas.com/brands/heli-coil

[Welshy40]

Its a sad day but my unused Lazer ZX-S is now going to a good home. :thumbsup: to the new owner.

[lllyf]

Its a sad day but my unused Lazer ZX-S is now going to a good home. :thumbsup: to the new owner.
so sad that zx-s is a really treasure.may to can not find any zx-s new or mint anymore why sell it out?

[isobarik]

Well to much cars or just a good deal.

mvh isobarik

Welsh got any contacts with the kyosho guys would love toget my hands
on the carbon they use like the one on tebos car not glossy you know.

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Looking rather good.

http://proxy1.pixbox.se/arkivet/synligt_38/32660000-32669999/640x480/32663455.jpg?0

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Looking rather good.

http://proxy1.pixbox.se/arkivet/synligt_38/32660000-32669999/640x480/32663455.jpg?0

mvh Isobarik

What car, looks like a zxr mk1

[Welshy40]

Well to much cars or just a good deal.

mvh isobarik

Welsh got any contacts with the kyosho guys would love toget my hands
on the carbon they use like the one on tebos car not glossy you know.

mvh Isobarik

Pays for my walk in shower as my mrs has problems getting in the current one we have. Got a reasonable price for it. Ive still got my runner and wont sell that.

Give me option the part numbers and will find out if they have any, doubtful considering how many they made but worth a try.

[oli4ke]

I bought the nice looking and strong James Instone version for my Lazer ZX-RR, looks superb!!!:wubBTW James many thanks for this design dude!!!:thumbsup:
I guess there is no difference between all the ZX-R shocktowers, due to the wing mount are the ZX ones different from the ZXR.
Enclosed some pictures:D

Lazer ZX-RR is up for sale......PM if you are interested!

Pictures of the ZX-RR you can find on page 73 (without bodyshell) and page 82 (with bodyshell, wing and wheels) of this thread!

Car is still in the same condition as shown on the pictures!!

[isobarik]

Olike looking good damn if ididnt had to much lazers already.

Is that an TBG body ???

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

What car, looks like a zxr mk1

yeah it is my daughters runner shall get some adapters so i can mount some foam so it will be ready for the winter.

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Looks great, will go well.

[peetbee]

Guys, any hints as to what I could use as a starting setup for a mk1 Lazer (whatever that is!) fitted with Cat XLS shocks?
Also gearing suggestions for a 10.5?

I have aquired one for our vintage series :thumbsup:

[oli4ke]

Olike looking good damn if ididnt had to much lazers already.

Is that an TBG body ???

mvh Isobarik

Nope original one Iso!

[Welshy40]

Guys, any hints as to what I could use as a starting setup for a mk1 Lazer (whatever that is!) fitted with Cat XLS shocks?
Also gearing suggestions for a 10.5?

I have aquired one for our vintage series :thumbsup:

Pete, unsure on those shocks but associated size 1 all round good starting point 40 ft 30 r or tamiya piston as 511, 50 ft 40 rear. Traxxas piston 2 60 ft, piston 3 40 r.

Will work out motor ratio and pm you. I would advise buying my design spur gear with b4 hex on both sides from rw and buy the sc10 extra torque slipper pads as is much better for these motors.

[peetbee]

Thanks James, not sure that the car has a slipper tho, looks more like the spur gear holder that the Optima Mid used.

I may change to an old set of Associated shocks instead, anyone want some Cat shocks?!

[isobarik]

peetbee snap some pics so we all can have a look.

mvh isobarik

[peetbee]

Will try and sort that out tonight Iso. Having had a look I think I've got a ZX

Can anyone recommend somewhere to download the manual in it's entirety rather than page by page?

Also, it's got the standard 2" kit wheels, which need to be replaced with modern ones so I can fit decent tyres to run it. Has anyone tried the Fastrax or Ansmann wheels? As they seem the cheapest around!

[Welshy40]

Will try and sort that out tonight Iso. Having had a look I think I've got a ZX

Can anyone recommend somewhere to download the manual in it's entirety rather than page by page?

Also, it's got the standard 2" kit wheels, which need to be replaced with modern ones so I can fit decent tyres to run it. Has anyone tried the Fastrax or Ansmann wheels? As they seem the cheapest around!

Annsman Mad Rat wheels are a perfect fit and are the same diameter as the original Kyosho ones and are a nice looking strong wheel. I use them.

Manual is http://www.retromodelisme.com/liste_manuel.html french site is the only place where you can get the manual for the ZX and ZXR, unfortunately page by page. If you have pics then I can give an update on the slipper you have, otherwise if its a solid layshaft I would opt for the ZX slipper system (if you do have it) as it works really well with the B4 slipper pads and my RW spur.

Gear ratio for a 10.5 turn motor my recommendation for a starting point as a 25 pinion but I think that a 26 pinion with 100t spur (48dp) will be spot on.

[rondoolaa]

uploaded the manuals in 1 download for you,

lazer alpha,
lazer zx,
lazer zx-r
lazer zx-rr
lazer zx-5,
lazer zxs evo

http://www.sendspace.com/file/bu88pl

[isobarik]

Thanks ron ...:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Ive supplied the rarest manual to someone, the lazer zxs but no idea where the scanned image is.

[oli4ke]

Ive supplied the rarest manual to someone, the lazer zxs but no idea where the scanned image is.

James, I have the scanned manual from the ZXS and the ZXS EVO.
If someone needs them send me a PM with your email address!

[Welshy40]

so sad that zx-s is a really treasure.may to can not find any zx-s new or mint anymore why sell it out?

Sold it as my Mrs can no longer get in the bath due to now being diagnosed with MS so have to buy a wet room and the money from selling this one of possibly ten ever made (unused) is helping to pay for this.:thumbdown:

Still I am using one as a runner which is also one of the ten protos and wont be selling that.:thumbsup:. Pics are on the Petit site and on here somewhere.

[Welshy40]

uploaded the manuals in 1 download for you,

lazer alpha,
lazer zx,
lazer zx-r
lazer zx-rr
lazer zx-5,
lazer zxs evo

http://www.sendspace.com/file/bu88pl

Ron,

Do me a favour as I am unable to access your site from work can you give me the part number for the chassis on the ZX-S, not the Evo. Thanks.

[oli4ke]

Ron,

Do me a favour as I am unable to access your site from work can you give me the part number for the chassis on the ZX-S, not the Evo. Thanks.

James, ZXS Main chassis part number is LA-120 mate!

[rondoolaa]

couple of answers please,

i'm going to try and make a lazer this weekend out of all the cars i've purchased, use a bit from here bit from there, etc,

which is the best spur mechanism to use from the 3 in the pics,??

also is it better to use geared diffs or ball diffs ???

thanks for any answers





found some zxs parts on fleabay if anyone needs any, youve probably seen them already, but just in case,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-TRANSMISSION-PLATE-KYOLA109-PART-LA109-/120672527350?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c18a4a3f6#ht_717wt_1139

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-4-8MM-KING-PIN-BALL-KYOLA129-PART-LA129-/120692766820?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c19d97864#ht_717wt_1139

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-UPPER-DECK-KYOLA105-PART-LA105-/120692309691?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c19d27ebb#ht_734wt_1139

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-SUS-PLATE-SET-KYOLA131-PART-LA131-/120692770886?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c19d98846#ht_717wt_1139



please dont forget to address my questions if you can, thankyou

[isobarik]

Ron
Use the middle one...

btw you have to mail me youre adress

[Ema]

+1
for the middle one ;)

Bye
Ema

[Welshy40]

Middle, and you should buy the sc10 extra torque slipper pads and my design 100t 48dp spur from rw racing with hexes on both sides for the zx / zxr as you can use brushless mitors without problems. It also fits perfecty on the first picture but has more rotating mass weight so hence why we say middle.

Ball diffs are better but you must get ceramic diff balls and thrust race otherwise the diffs crap due to a gritty feeling.

[rondoolaa]

thanks for the advice,

i will use the middle one then,

i also already have 2 of your spur gears james and 2 sets oif high torque slipper pads,

see pics,

will use them also,

any idea of where to buy the ceramic balls and the thrust race

thankyou

[Welshy40]

Well my best mate Dave Belsten (Nuclear RC) recommends RC Lazy and I bought a couple of sets along with Nuclear RC grease and they are smooth big time.

[Belsten]

Yup I can hook you up with diff & thrust greases, just drop me a pm

[rondoolaa]

Well my best mate Dave Belsten (Nuclear RC) recommends RC Lazy and I bought a couple of sets along with Nuclear RC grease and they are smooth big time.


are these the items,



24x 3/32 Lazy Balls ceramic diff balls – £7 per 12
2x BRG100 – Ball Diff Thrust Bearing – £7.49 ea


if not do you have any links please, i'll probably end up buying wrong parts,

will pm about greases, thanks belston

[Welshy40]

are these the items,



24x 3/32 Lazy Balls ceramic diff balls – £7 per 12
2x BRG100 – Ball Diff Thrust Bearing – £7.49 ea


if not do you have any links please, i'll probably end up buying wrong parts,

will pm about greases, thanks belston

http://rclazy.com/


I dont know part numbers but did send rclazy the originals and they had them. Their web site is easy to find on google, and if in the uk they are easy to call and ask for them, just ask fir lazer zxr diff balls

[rondoolaa]

started the car last night,

mainly put all the alloy bits onto it,

just missing a few balls for the rod ends, gunna buy a whole new set,

also gunna build a lazer out of all brand new and original parts,

gunna finish this one first,

i know i should have cleaned some parts before assembling but that will give me something to do another day... :-)

[oli4ke]

started the car last night,

mainly put all the alloy bits onto it,

just missing a few balls for the rod ends, gunna buy a whole new set,

also gunna build a lazer out of all brand new and original parts,

gunna finish this one first,

i know i should have cleaned some parts before assembling but that will give me something to do another day... :-)

Looks really nice Ron :thumbsup:

[isobarik]

Looking good Ron ..sexy ...

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

gettin really confused on sizes,

i have the 4-40 rpm blue ball cups,

what size balls do i buy,

i see sizes like 4.3 and 4.8 etc but dont know what balls to buy...

just rewired my novak speedo to go in lazer so wires are right size and also made the cap wires long enough to sit neatly on top of rear gearbox,

burnt a hole in my hand doin it though, lol...

thanks for advice on ball sizes..

[moth898]

Hey Ron, where are the blue steering knuckles from?

[isobarik]

gettin really confused on sizes,

i have the 4-40 rpm blue ball cups,

what size balls do i buy,

i see sizes like 4.3 and 4.8 etc but dont know what balls to buy...

just rewired my novak speedo to go in lazer so wires are right size and also made the cap wires long enough to sit neatly on top of rear gearbox,

burnt a hole in my hand doin it though, lol...

thanks for advice on ball sizes..

Associated balls dont kniow the size tough i think 4,8 are kyosho ones but i might be wrong ...i do know if you have the associated size they fit nice.

mvh Isobarik

[oli4ke]

gettin really confused on sizes,

i have the 4-40 rpm blue ball cups,

what size balls do i buy,

i see sizes like 4.3 and 4.8 etc but dont know what balls to buy...

just rewired my novak speedo to go in lazer so wires are right size and also made the cap wires long enough to sit neatly on top of rear gearbox,

burnt a hole in my hand doin it though, lol...

thanks for advice on ball sizes..

Hi Mate,

I have used the blue RPM ball cups on my ZX-RR as well!
These Associated ballstuds fits like a glove.....:D

- PN: ASC6276 short ballstud 4/40
http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Associated-Silver-2000-Ball-Studs-ASC6276-/230655546686?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b424553e

- PN: ASC6277 long ballstud 4/40
http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/Associated-Ballstud-Long-Silver-300-6-ASC6277-/160537035061?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2560c0c135

ATTN: I fitted the short ballstud PN: ASC6276 only in the plastic parts.
And I used the long ballstuds PN: ASC6277 in the shock towers, however it's possible that you you will need to enlarge the hole a little bit from the current size 2.6mm to 2.8mm.


Rgds
Olivier

[Welshy40]

Firstly nice zxr above with multi coloured bling but be warned the alloy top deck does bend and can snap the chassis.

Secondly i have always used associated ball joints all round and i would recommend and prefer the RC10 B2 ball cups which are now widely used on associated touring cars as they very rarely pop off unlike the RPM where they do when they wear. Im still using the same ball cups two years later and bugger all slop.

[simoncrabb]

http://rclazy.com/


I dont know part numbers but did send rclazy the originals and they had them. Their web site is easy to find on google, and if in the uk they are easy to call and ask for them, just ask fir lazer zxr diff balls

Yeah, I remember sending you some, I measured the balls you sent me.

But, I, err, forgot to record what size I sent you...

I'm pretty sure they are 3/32" (2.4mm) in the main diff if someone wants to measure them?

Again, can't remember about the thrust balls, I think they are 1/16" - again, can someone measure them?

Simon

[rondoolaa]

Hey Ron, where are the blue steering knuckles from?

they came with a full car purchase mate

[peetbee]

took a while sorry! pretty sure it's a zx, but here you go:
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/th_P8310011.jpg (http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/?action=view&current=P8310011.jpg) http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/th_P8310013.jpg (http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/?action=view&current=P8310013.jpg) http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/th_P8310020.jpg (http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/?action=view&current=P8310020.jpg)

It does have a slipper and this weird middle diff thing, how do you stop that from working?
Also if I get a new shell in future, are there any choices other than TBG & Kamtec and what's your verdict on them?
ta!

[Welshy40]

took a while sorry! pretty sure it's a zx, but here you go:
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/th_P8310011.jpg (http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/?action=view&current=P8310011.jpg) http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/th_P8310013.jpg (http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/?action=view&current=P8310013.jpg) http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/th_P8310020.jpg (http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/peetbee/lazer/?action=view&current=P8310020.jpg)

It does have a slipper and this weird middle diff thing, how do you stop that from working?
Also if I get a new shell in future, are there any choices other than TBG & Kamtec and what's your verdict on them?
ta!

Pete,

Kamtec do the Parma Tomcat shell but doesnt come with an undertray and is a work of art but has no cut lines so patience is a virtue with this, but I know thats a doddle for you. I use that and bought a ZXR undertray from ebay (the chap is based in Canada), its a repo but is good enough for what you want.

Youll need megga thick grease for the ZX slipper system but even that might not do it, as its very picky to ge right. Its really better suited for a low grip slippy surface.

The simplest way of stopping the ZX slipper (yes your cars is a ZX) is by buying my 100T 48dp spur from RW racing and the B4 or B44 or even SC10 extra torque slipper pads and just take the original spur out and the balls but take the washer out of the middle and put onto the new spur and also when fitting the slipper pads make sure you also attached on either side those extra large metal washers that are from the third diff.

Also you have the correct steering plate on the car (no matter what anyone else says this is the best out of all the ZX/ZXR versions) so if you have bump steer spacing the steering knuckle arm should resolve that.

Anyway if you need any help just PM me or give me a yell whenever (Dave has my number), not a problem at all.

[isobarik]

marwan or integrafan has the zx body too .

otherwise its Kamtec or teambluegroove.

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

i wired up my zx-r about an hour ago,

i put a 10.5 novak motor in it with a gtb speed controller and ratio 100/22

i hope the 22 pinion is ok against a 100 spur..

damn for a 22 yr old car it doesnt half shift, i bet it would be lethal with a 5.5 in it...

[Welshy40]

Yup I use a 5.5 but think it needs work as im not happy as its not quick enough yet, and 25 or 26 is more correct for the 10.5 so will be a bit quicker if your up for it.

Also anyone know who does all the timing inserts for x12 LRP? There are five in total and only found the four,three and two dot versions but want the one and minus dots, any ideas?

[Lazer zx-r]

if i am not mistaking i think one or two of the bits fits both ways...
(have dots on both sides, different off course)

will you have any starting torque with the "one" and the minus dots?
i feal i dont have enough acceleration with the two dots.. on my 6,5 X12 octa wind. but it goes like hell when the rev comes up...

[peetbee]

Ok, it looks like I need a new OT16 as one of them has a stripped thread :(
Anyone know where I can get one from? Ta!

[rondoolaa]

Ok, it looks like I need a new OT16 as one of them has a stripped thread :(
Anyone know where I can get one from? Ta!


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OT-16-Alum-Front-Knuckles-Kyosho-Optima-Optima-Mid-/250883062686?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a69cbbb9e#ht_500wt_922


or do you mean the standard ones

sent pm with link to some

[isobarik]

Gerard you havent forgott to send me an adress ???

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

Gerard you havent forgott to send me an adress ???

mvh Isobarik

pm'd

[Welshy40]

if i am not mistaking i think one or two of the bits fits both ways...
(have dots on both sides, different off course)

will you have any starting torque with the "one" and the minus dots?
i feal i dont have enough acceleration with the two dots.. on my 6,5 X12 octa wind. but it goes like hell when the rev comes up...

I didnt see any other dots on mine, hence why I asked. Maybe I got a one off pack with out the dots on the other side. I will buy another set to see.

4 dots more accelaration, two dots less but apparently more top end. One dot and the neutral - sign should give the full potential with the 12.5mm armature in. Currently its not there yet with two dots, as I am still lacking and need more top speed to drive the car the way its supposed to be with my set up.

Doh, didnt realise they could be swopped around and typical LRP dont mention it in their manual and dont reply emails. Cant wait to try the x + 10 setting to see what it does.

[peetbee]

or do you mean the standard ones
Thanks for the links, but what do you mean standard ones?
The ones on my car are alloy, look the same as the ones on the Optima Mid

[isobarik]

I'll guess he means alu or plastic...

mvh isobarik

[peetbee]

so if mine were standard they should be plastic or are the alloy ones fitted standard?
I'm tempted to go plastic because of the price, any performance/strength differences?

[Welshy40]

so if mine were standard they should be plastic or are the alloy ones fitted standard?
I'm tempted to go plastic because of the price, any performance/strength differences?

Its really down to preference considering that you wont be using it that much the plastic ones will be fine, but for me the alloy are stronger and the king pins dont vibrate out with threadlock on.

[rondoolaa]

I'll guess he means alu or plastic...

mvh isobarik

yer i did mean plastic as the ones in link in the pm are that i sent

[peetbee]

Thanks again guys, plastic ordered:)

[barbara08]

Patrick, I've had all three Lazer ZX, Lazer ZX-R and Turbo Optima Mid SE.

It depends on which Optima you are referring to. Some had chain drive,
while the later ones were belt. I do believe the Lazer lines used a wide
stance and a center diff. The ZX-R had a one way center diff as well.
Also, the Optima Mid I have has a Medal chassis, while the Lazer line uses
Graphite. Beyond this I cannot remember because I have sold both the Lazer
ZX and ZX-R on ebay a couple of months ago, but I sill have the Optima Mid
SE.

[rondoolaa]

got myself an la-11 for £4.72 and £3 postage from states on ebay last month,

cant believe how rare these are to find on ebay.

i'll soon have all the parts to build a mint shelfer

[Welshy40]

They were rare ten years ago as well, but know these can be made as ive done the testing to see which plastics were needed. Soon (hopefully) the big job will be over and Matt can make a pile of them and other items to sell on to us. :thumbsup:

[rondoolaa]

They were rare ten years ago as well, but know these can be made as ive done the testing to see which plastics were needed. Soon (hopefully) the big job will be over and Matt can make a pile of them and other items to sell on to us. :thumbsup:


that will be great,

i asked matt ages ago for some la-11 and 2 or 3 front gearboxes, cant wait, he does a wicked job by the looks of the pics in this thread

[Welshy40]

that will be great,

i asked matt ages ago for some la-11 and 2 or 3 front gearboxes, cant wait, he does a wicked job by the looks of the pics in this thread

Yes, as good as the original, but I do have this thing for white bits on my car and does look rather unusual which is great :thumbsup:. Layshaft gears are still going strong on my ZXS as well as the diff gear. Matt is a skilled dude :thumbsup:.

[alcyon]

hi guys, i have a lazer ZX and a optima mid special, and i have done restoring the optima mid special with lazer zx-5 suspension and lazer ZX shock towers. i will restore the Lazer ZX soon. But i am looking to restore to make it competitive with modern cars. My optima mid special project can be seen here http://superturbooptimamidspecialzx-5.blogspot.com/
I have a question for all you guys. As you all know the Lazer is basically derived from the LWB optima Mid. of course the Lazer is much easier to wrench on than the Mids enclosed drivetrain, from my own experience. I also know the lazers rear end is slightly lighter than the mid becuase of the abscence of the rear top gear and center gear. But about everything else its the same (i know the suspension is better on the Lazer) The Lazer and the Mid are both rear heavy cars and long wheelbase so they both understeer. I just ran my car recently and i find it understeers horribly and embarrasingly, the 2WD cars overtake me in the corners. But i beleive its becuase the optima mids original bellcrank comes with a very sloppy servo saver, on the ground when the car isnt moving with the servo turned full, the front wheels dont turn full lock. Question is, will a servo saver less A&L sterring bellcrank solve my understeering problem, from terrible understeering to mild understeering? what are your thoughts on this ?

[Welshy40]

All depends on what surface your running on. I ise 7 degree front hubs and zx5 rear hubs and get major oversteer. I believe your set up is the problem and not the car.

For more info look on radiocontrolzone for the lazer/alpha etc thread as ive gone through a shed load of changes to better the performance of this car as well as on this thread. Any help pm me.

[isobarik]

Alcyon

Fix the sloppy steering first and go from there.

I ran my zxr arms converted turbo optima mid special back in -97 in the swedish national championship.

the problem i had then was that i had just one pinion the stock one a 2-3 teeth lover should have done the trick. My home club held the event so i build it and raced it just because of that. And by the way i didn finnish last.


mvh isobarik

[alcyon]

hey guys, i just noticed something i didnt notice before, looks like the ZX-5 suspension on the mid or lazer will not work so well, why? Cause the rear track width is less than the front! on the zx-5, the rear hingepins are designed 4mm further apart, so the rear hubs dont have offset. Placed on the mid or lazer, they will cause the rears to be narrower. i may have a workaround for this though, the kyosho tf-5 touring car rear hubs has a liuttle frther bearing spacing as well as ofsset the bearings more outwards. With the TF-5 rear hubs, i beleive the rear and front will be the same width, but you probably will have to use tamiya CVDs though. will keep you guys updated.
i just went trough my stash of stuff and i finally found my lazer ZX's front arms and c hubs, but i couldnt find the rear arms and hubs. anyone got any to sell? i also found my lazers ball diff pulleys front and rear and one FRP bateery hold down bar.

[alcyon]

oh my god, i just done a search for part LA-26 the arms, and they are so bloody hard to find ! i might have to shelve my restoration! anyway i chacned upon this ebay member from belgium calls himself opelvectrabreak, says he has parts LA-26 and some others, lets see how much he is charging me for them..

[Welshy40]

hey guys, i just noticed something i didnt notice before, looks like the ZX-5 suspension on the mid or lazer will not work so well, why? Cause the rear track width is less than the front! on the zx-5, the rear hingepins are designed 4mm further apart, so the rear hubs dont have offset. Placed on the mid or lazer, they will cause the rears to be narrower. i may have a workaround for this though, the kyosho tf-5 touring car rear hubs has a liuttle frther bearing spacing as well as ofsset the bearings more outwards. With the TF-5 rear hubs, i beleive the rear and front will be the same width, but you probably will have to use tamiya CVDs though. will keep you guys updated.
i just went trough my stash of stuff and i finally found my lazer ZX's front arms and c hubs, but i couldnt find the rear arms and hubs. anyone got any to sell? i also found my lazers ball diff pulleys front and rear and one FRP bateery hold down bar.

Sorry but I am confused. Do you mean the rear hubs on the Lazer ZX-5 as they will fit the ZXR as I use them. Basically they are identical to the 2wd Ultima RB type R and they fit too. The rear track width is narrower and it actually makes the car better. The wider the rear end the worse the car goes around corners. Also widen the front with the extra hole on the front castor blocks and longer Ujs as with that and the fractionally narrower rear the cars superb.

[Welshy40]

Iso,

This site may be of interest to you and you may be up for buying a few.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-kyosho-lazer-zx-s-kick-up-plate-/140608156432?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item20bce63310#ht_528wt_650

[alcyon]

Sorry but I am confused. Do you mean the rear hubs on the Lazer ZX-5 as they will fit the ZXR as I use them. Basically they are identical to the 2wd Ultima RB type R and they fit too. The rear track width is narrower and it actually makes the car better. The wider the rear end the worse the car goes around corners. Also widen the front with the extra hole on the front castor blocks and longer Ujs as with that and the fractionally narrower rear the cars superb.
yes i heard about that too, but isnt the original optima mid and lazer wider at the rear? it just looks odd that rears are wider than the fronts. do you mean to say its like that on the zx-5 also ? i talked to opelvectrabreak, and he wants Euro 28 for a pair of arms ! looks like i will go look at my local hobby shop which carries kyosho parts from wayy back then, cross my fingers he still has what i am looking for...when you said the worse the car goes, do you mean oversteer?
i just looked at the optima mid specs, front track 207mm, rear track is 202mm, looks like you are right after all. Do you know the track width fro The ZX and ZX-r ?

[isobarik]

Welsh
Yeah i have seen those not on the but i have hade an offering to buy but i havent got any shipping price.

Alcyon

The ZX5 uses alot of different arms the longest rear arms should be the RTR version or just could try to switch them around if the mm is up setting youor just mount an washer on the inside before you put the reartire on.

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

oh my god, i just done a search for part LA-26 the arms, and they are so bloody hard to find ! i might have to shelve my restoration! anyway i chacned upon this ebay member from belgium calls himself opelvectrabreak, says he has parts LA-26 and some others, lets see how much he is charging me for them..



i would try opelvectrabreak first (oli4ke on here),

he's a great guy and ive purchased loads of parts from him..

if he has none then there are 2 links below

they have some here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-LA-26-SUSPENSION-ARM-SET-LAZER-/300579945258?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item45fbf5fb2a

and here:

http://www.bandhmodels.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=4030687fa2c3cb603a4f4c7a9492203b&keyword=la-26&x=0&y=0


the ebay one says they are in france yet the site one is in lincolnshire uk..and both have the same pic, i'm guessing the ebayer used the pic from the site



they sell them in the states but the only problem is they wont send to the uk, W*****s, and kyosho uk dont want to help out either. W*****S...

if you know anyone in the states or canada get them to order some from kyosho usa via their local model shop as the have the graphite ones in stock at $9 a set..... bargain....(they will need to go through a model shop as if they dont then postage is a rip off)

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/SusArm-Setgraphite---_p_9804.html

[alcyon]

guys, i went to my local hobby shop, and i found 8 bags of Lazer ZX arms from a 3rd party manufacturer calle MPP from 1990 ! i feel so stupid becuase it was right under my nose all this time and i didnt know ! i much prefer the ZX arms over the ZX-5.
now alls left is to get the rear hubs and front c hubs . quick question, the ZX uses an odd looking upper turnbuckle for the front outer link, it is possible to use a standard turnbuckle, or a ZX-5 ballstud kingpin with a ZX-5 ballstud? will it severly limit the front suspension travel?

[alcyon]

i would try opelvectrabreak first (oli4ke on here),

he's a great guy and ive purchased loads of parts from him..

if he has none then there are 2 links below

they have some here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYOSHO-LA-26-SUSPENSION-ARM-SET-LAZER-/300579945258?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item45fbf5fb2a

and here:

http://www.bandhmodels.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=4030687fa2c3cb603a4f4c7a9492203b&keyword=la-26&x=0&y=0


the ebay one says they are in france yet the site one is in lincolnshire uk..and both have the same pic, i'm guessing the ebayer used the pic from the site



they sell them in the states but the only problem is they wont send to the uk, W*****s, and kyosho uk dont want to help out either. W*****S...

if you know anyone in the states or canada get them to order some from kyosho usa via their local model shop as the have the graphite ones in stock at $9 a set..... bargain....(they will need to go through a model shop as if they dont then postage is a rip off)

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/SusArm-Setgraphite---_p_9804.html
thanks my friend, since i found the arms, i only need LA27 fornt c hub, La28 rear hub and La29 upper rod set (is this really necessary?) i tried bandh and the other fellow, but both of them dont have LA-27 the c hub. i ant to buy LA-27 and LA28 at one go. do you guys know which lazer does the front hub LA-59 belong to? LA59 is in stock with bandh.
will they fit on the ZXs front arms?

[Ema]

thanks my friend, since i found the arms, i only need LA27 fornt c hub, La28 rear hub and La29 upper rod set (is this really necessary?) i tried bandh and the other fellow, but both of them dont have LA-27 the c hub. i ant to buy LA-27 and LA28 at one go. do you guys know which lazer does the front hub LA-59 belong to? LA59 is in stock with bandh.
will they fit on the ZXs front arms?

The LA-59 are the same of the LA-27 hubs but with an additional hole that allow to use use a wider front end setup with longer UJs (Zx-RR version).

Bye
Ema
P.S. No one that runs the car use the LA-29.

[alcyon]

The LA-59 are the same of the LA-27 hubs but with an additional hole that allow to use use a wider front end setup with longer UJs (Zx-RR version).

Bye
Ema
P.S. No one that runs the car use the LA-29.
hey thanks, looks like i am buying LA-59 ! i just bought 2 LA-28 and 1 LA-59 from bandh. i tried buying 2 LA-59s but the checkout wouldnt allow me to. Cant wait to get them !

[isobarik]

hey thanks, looks like i am buying LA-59 !


you can use the stuff that you have

La219 in the front and the Sp107/La 304 in the rear.

Works super i have them...

Good find those arms ....

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

I will post pics later on of the rear hubs and front hubs on my zx so you can see why i run narrower rear end. Zx-5 (the shaft drive) rear hubs or (iso help me out here) the rear ultima rb type r rear hubs. Makes the car more dialable than the zx/zxr original hubs.

[alcyon]

you can use the stuff that you have

La219 in the front and the Sp107/La 304 in the rear.

Works super i have them...

Good find those arms ....

mvh isobarik
hi iso and welshy, i tried installing the arms last night with the original c hub and the ZX-5 c hub, and i find that the zx-5 c hub pushes the front wheel much more outwards. i havent tried fitting the 62.5mm CVD yet to see if they will go in nicely with some moving space though. also if iremember right, the rear of the old lazer used a longer rear UJ at 3mm longer than the front, that would make it easier for me to get UJs, however after hearing about your tips welshy, i think i better look at your pics first.

[isobarik]

I will post pics later on of the rear hubs and front hubs on my zx so you can see why i run narrower rear end. Zx-5 (the shaft drive) rear hubs or (iso help me out here) the rear ultima rb type r rear hubs. Makes the car more dialable than the zx/zxr original hubs.


Sp-107
Sp-107.02 (2 degrees toe in inbuilt )
Sp-107 H (hard graphite version )
Sp-107V
Sp-107V2 ( 2 degrees toe in inbuilt )
Spw-123 ( alloy version )
Spw-123.02 ( you guessed it right alloy version with 2 degrees toein inbuilt )
La-304

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

hi iso and welshy, i tried installing the arms last night with the original c hub and the ZX-5 c hub, and i find that the zx-5 c hub pushes the front wheel much more outwards. i havent tried fitting the 62.5mm CVD yet to see if they will go in nicely with some moving space though. also if iremember right, the rear of the old lazer used a longer rear UJ at 3mm longer than the front, that would make it easier for me to get UJs, however after hearing about your tips welshy, i think i better look at your pics first.

Actually its the otherway around the front when using the innerhole of the hub hole have an w-5063 wich are 3mm longer then the w5061 standard uj.

optima mid have the same offset on the rims its just the inner sleeve thats different. Kyosho Lazer 2.2 inch rims they have the old style offset in the rear but at the front they are deeper when measuring from the inside. thats why they started to drill their hubs and eventually they came up with an new one La-59 with two holes since when using the 2.2s at the front they came up narrow compared to the rear but when you moved the hub outward they neaded an longer UJ hence the w-5063

I have built my cars with La-219 and the Sp-107/La-304 hubs since they are working super and they are a perfect fit.

Well regarding the Uj´s front w-5063 or the la-232 65.5 mm from kyosho or 3 racing fit perfectly have those too.

in the rear w-5061 or well here come some problems w-5061 are 62.5 so um-510 fits but the axle is longer so what i have done is that i bought the um-510 and fitted the shorter axle from the La-232 part number is La-231.02

La-245 should be the combo of them both but since i dont have them i cant say for sure.

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

Iso,

Ive got a zx5 axle but now need to get the dogbone item to fit to it. What part number do you recommend to make the uj the same length (maybe 1mm shorter) as the original rear zxr ujs?

[isobarik]

What lenght are they now

Avaliable lenghts are

73
68
65.5
62.5
60.5

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

Lets say 62.5 or 60.5

Im having issues with my proto Ujs where they are wearing out on the cups due to being a bit too long so now need to get it sorted hence why I already have the MIP type kyosho axles and only need the bone section.

[alcyon]

Well regarding the Uj´s front w-5063 or the la-232 65.5 mm from kyosho or 3 racing fit perfectly have those too.

in the rear w-5061 or well here come some problems w-5061 are 62.5 so um-510 fits but the axle is longer so what i have done is that i bought the um-510 and fitted the shorter axle from the La-232 part number is La-231.02

La-245 should be the combo of them both but since i dont have them i cant say for sure.

mvh isobarik
thanks so much for the very informative information !
iso, i thought the standard zx-5 uses 62.5mm in the front and 65.5 in the rear? if that is so, the 62.5 from the zx-5 should fit straight in the rear of the ZX with SP107/La304 right ?

[isobarik]

Alcyon

Yupp that should do it....

The zx-5 uses 68 in front and 65.5 in rear.

mvh isobarik

[alcyon]

Alcyon

Yupp that should do it....

The zx-5 uses 68 in front and 65.5 in rear.

mvh isobarik

iso, i wonder if the zx-5 in your country and mine are different, of course over here most of the zx-5 are RTRs. according to my local hobby shop owner, the zx-5 uses 62.5 in front and 65.5 in rear. i actually bought 3racing 62.5, only a pair. i have just done a test fit on my optima mid, and i found this.
keep in mind the ball diff outdrive on the optima mid and lazer is the same.
look at the first photo, lazer zx arms, with ZX c hub, with 62.5 CVD. in the second photo, you see that the CVD bone end cannot go in any further, and the camber angle at arms level is zero ! you cant add any camber at all. thats becuase the kyosho ball diff has a step machined into it to prevent further travel than what you see in the picture. also notice in the 1st picture the distance the hex are from the arm edge, which is quite close. i beleive a 60.5 would be perfect here.
Look at the 3rd picture, its the ZX arms mounted with ZX-5 c hub with a 7 marked on it. Now look at picture 4. Notice that the 62.5 CVD bone end is further from the inside, that means i have more sliding space. That means the 62.5 CVD is perfect with ZX-5 c hub. however the ZX-5 hub needs to be grounded at the lower end cause its actually interfering with the arm ! i couldnt push the c hub inwards at the top, that means also no negative camber. Also notice in picture 3 how far out is the hex from the arm edge.

Lastly look at the last photo,showing ZX arm with ZX-5 hub LA304. in my next post, look at the picture. The 62.5 bone cannot go in any further, that means also cant adjust more negative camber. Conclusion is i also have to use 60.5 in the rear with ZX-5 hubs. i am waiting for LA-28 to arrive to test if the 62.5 will be perfect for it.

[alcyon]

the rear bone end maximum position. conclusion is, with zx arms and zx c hubs, the front track width is narrower than combination of ZX arms wih zx-5 c hub. and i beleive its the opposite for the rear . Rear ZX arms with rear ZX hub will be wider than zx arms with zx-5 hub. please correct me if i am wrong. there could be 2 possibilites why i am getting a different result than you guys.
The C hub in picture 1 may not be Lazer ZX, but this is the hub i got with my ZX when i bought it used in 1992. Do you guys recognize this c hub? if i am not mistaken the Lazer zx c hub part LA-27 has the upper rod mounting placed after the kingpin, not before it. the other possibilty is kyosho revised the design of the ball diff outdrive somewhere maybe in 1990 perhaps with a deeper step machined into it, and my outdrives could be the old type ?

[isobarik]

Alcyon

rear

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/LA232-Universal-Swing-Shaft655_p_3629.html

front

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/search.asp?keyword=la231&search.x=20&search.y=18

3racing just do the rear 65.5 and the 68 front

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

the rear bone end maximum position. conclusion is, with zx arms and zx c hubs, the front track width is narrower than combination of ZX arms wih zx-5 c hub. and i beleive its the opposite for the rear . Rear ZX arms with rear ZX hub will be wider than zx arms with zx-5 hub. please correct me if i am wrong. there could be 2 possibilites why i am getting a different result than you guys.
The C hub in picture 1 may not be Lazer ZX, but this is the hub i got with my ZX when i bought it used in 1992. Do you guys recognize this c hub? if i am not mistaken the Lazer zx c hub part LA-27 has the upper rod mounting placed after the kingpin, not before it. the other possibilty is kyosho revised the design of the ball diff outdrive somewhere maybe in 1990 perhaps with a deeper step machined into it, and my outdrives could be the old type ?

Picture one is a ZX/ZXR front hub and is correct (1st piccy on the left). I personally wouldn't use the ZX5 front hubs on the ZX or ZXR as there is a fractional difference, and can cause problems with the UJs, like what your having. Yes the rear hub in the picture you have is what I use and would prefer a fractionally (1mm) shorter UJ to account for the movement inwards.

I based my designs on original Ujs that were standard in the kit but with Iso's help you should get the right length.

[alcyon]

Alcyon

rear

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/LA232-Universal-Swing-Shaft655_p_3629.html

front

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/search.asp?keyword=la231&search.x=20&search.y=18

3racing just do the rear 65.5 and the 68 front

mvh isobarik
hmm, that means i am actually installing a 65.5 not a 62.5! when i go home tonight i will measure the CVD i have against W-5061 and see the difference. no wonder i am having problems ! looks like my hobby shop knows squat after all !

[lllyf]

guys, i went to my local hobby shop, and i found 8 bags of Lazer ZX arms from a 3rd party manufacturer calle MPP from 1990 ! i feel so stupid becuase it was right under my nose all this time and i didnt know ! i much prefer the ZX arms over the ZX-5.
now alls left is to get the rear hubs and front c hubs . quick question, the ZX uses an odd looking upper turnbuckle for the front outer link, it is possible to use a standard turnbuckle, or a ZX-5 ballstud kingpin with a ZX-5 ballstud? will it severly limit the front suspension travel?

LA-27 & LA-28
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220860132681?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
KINGPIN
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220860130666?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

[alcyon]

What lenght are they now

Avaliable lenghts are

73
68
65.5
62.5
60.5

mvh isobarik
iso, what are the part numbers for 62.5 and 60.5 ?

[isobarik]

Lastly look at the last photo,showing ZX arm with ZX-5 hub LA304. in my next post, look at the picture. The 62.5 bone cannot go in any further, that means also cant adjust more negative camber. Conclusion is i also have to use 60.5 in the rear with ZX-5 hubs. i am waiting for LA-28 to arrive to test if the 62.5 will be perfect for it.[/QUOTE]

the one you are trying to fit in the rear is not the 62.5 its the 65.5 thats why its a perfect fit in the front but not in the rear.

have tried that so i know

where have you bought youre cvds from ???

and yes you have to cut/dremel a little bit in the arm to gain some movment for the la 219

If you have bought the cheaper 3 racing bones they come in lenght of 68 and 65.5 use the shorter one for the front of the zxr

the 60.5 are wierd in that way that the bone yes 60.5 ut the axle itself is longer so the total is not shorter.

If you just follow these instructions

LA-232

and

2st um-510.01 bones and 2st la-231.02 axle

thats what you need have done that and yes they fit


mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

hmm, that means i am actually installing a 65.5 not a 62.5! when i go home tonight i will measure the CVD i have against W-5061 and see the difference. no wonder i am having problems ! looks like my hobby shop knows squat after all !


yeah to get the right rear bone just follow the instrctions above .

and yes LHS usually know suat since im getting email from mine and helping him out with parts for his customer. :woot:

mvh isobarik

[alcyon]

the one you are trying to fit in the rear is not the 62.5 its the 65.5 thats why its a perfect fit in the front but not in the rear.

have tried that so i know

where have you bought youre cvds from ???


mvh Isobarik
those bones are 3racing bones i presume 65.5mm i bought from my LHS.
another question iso, why not just install LA245 since its 62.5mm, and the axle part is the same as LA232 ? if use LA-28 rear hub with Lazer ZX rear arm, i think the 65.5 will fit perfect? If use LA-59 front hub and Front ZX arm, the 62.5mm(LA245) will be perfect ? For 62.5mm i will have no choice but buy kyosho. pretty expensive compared to 3racing !

[isobarik]

If you use the LA-59 and want to use the inner hole ie the wide stance so then the 62.5 is to short since the lenght is the same as w5061

The La-245 why dont i recomend it since i have not tried it I cant say if it will fit or not so are you sure about the axle lenght on the LA-245 then go a head why i recomended the stuff that i did in the way that i did is that i know it works.

the LA-219 and the la-304 is so much easier to get then the zxr dito.

mvh isobarik

[alcyon]

If you use the LA-59 and want to use the inner hole ie the wide stance so then the 62.5 is to short since the lenght is the same as w5061

The La-245 why dont i recomend it since i have not tried it I cant say if it will fit or not so are you sure about the axle lenght on the LA-245 then go a head why i recomended the stuff that i did in the way that i did is that i know it works.

the LA-219 and the la-304 is so much easier to get then the zxr dito.

mvh isobarik
ok that means with LA-59 i will use 65.5 in front. i think you are not certain if LA245 axle stub pin spacing is the same as LA232 right?
rcently i stumbled upon someone who wants to sell a ZX to me. it seems all original with the exception of alloy arm braces. my question is if i were to race it on a loose, tight offroad track with one small jump and one BIG jump, is there anyhting i should change on the car? Is the stock torque splitter an advantage on such a track? do i need to change the top shaft to a zx-r slipper shaft? also is there anyone making the reproduction for the front gearbox? i dont think i will change the suspension becuase from my experience with my old lazer, the car understeers a bit, and is very easy to drive, and thats the way i like it.

[Welshy40]

ok that means with LA-59 i will use 65.5 in front. i think you are not certain if LA245 axle stub pin spacing is the same as LA232 right?
rcently i stumbled upon someone who wants to sell a ZX to me. it seems all original with the exception of alloy arm braces. my question is if i were to race it on a loose, tight offroad track with one small jump and one BIG jump, is there anyhting i should change on the car? Is the stock torque splitter an advantage on such a track? do i need to change the top shaft to a zx-r slipper shaft? also is there anyone making the reproduction for the front gearbox? i dont think i will change the suspension becuase from my experience with my old lazer, the car understeers a bit, and is very easy to drive, and thats the way i like it.

I would get that lazer if it comes with the alloy wishbone pin braces as the plastic ones break. I currently use the ZX slipper clutch so dont change it and its on my car as well but would recommend the spur gear I designed by RW racing and all you do is take the balls out of the spur (its a third diff on the ZX) and buy a set of either B4 or B44 slipper pads or SC10 extra torque pads and fit the spur minus the diff balls and set it correctly so it slips fractionally on the surface your racing on an its set. I would also buy the MMS front shock tower (on ebay at the moment and is semi circular handle tower for a good price) and that is almost unbreakable so will give major strength to the front gear box so no need to replace that.

Im unsure, try it without weights and work from there. As per my previous pictures I use brass weights in the centre of the chassis closer to the rear, also under the Lipo cells and it jumps well. You may need to adjust the one way to get a bit of free wheel spin on the front so that you can get a bit of over steer as I found that total 4wd 50/50 makes the car understeer.

Oh yeah I forgot to add the pics of my front and rear hubs. There are plenty on this site somewhere if you want more.

[rondoolaa]

did anyone see that optima mid on ebay that was actually a lazer zx,

i told the seller he was advertising it wrong and even sent him the lazer manual and asked him to check certain pages of the mid manual that show the parts arnt mid parts, for example the drive belt not entering the bottom of gearbox,.... and then look at certain pages in the lazer manual to show i was right..

didnt listen to me though, i wonder if he will get bad feedback for selling a lazer and saying it was a mid

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150663886470?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2 Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_npmv%3D3%26_trksid% 3Dm570.l2736%26_nkw%3D150663886470%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1#ht_500wt_1202

[alcyon]

did anyone see that optima mid on ebay that was actually a lazer zx,

i told the seller he was advertising it wrong and even sent him the lazer manual and asked him to check certain pages of the mid manual that show the parts arnt mid parts, for example the drive belt not entering the bottom of gearbox,.... and then look at certain pages in the lazer manual to show i was right..

didnt listen to me though, i wonder if he will get bad feedback for selling a lazer and saying it was a mid

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150663886470?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2 Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_npmv%3D3%26_trksid% 3Dm570.l2736%26_nkw%3D150663886470%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1#ht_500wt_1202
looking at it, it does look like a lazer to me, the belt exits the rear gearbox high and the top deck is in 2 pieces.

[alcyon]

I would get that lazer if it comes with the alloy wishbone pin braces as the plastic ones break. I currently use the ZX slipper clutch so dont change it and its on my car as well but would recommend the spur gear I designed by RW racing and all you do is take the balls out of the spur (its a third diff on the ZX) and buy a set of either B4 or B44 slipper pads or SC10 extra torque pads and fit the spur minus the diff balls and set it correctly so it slips fractionally on the surface your racing on an its set. I would also buy the MMS front shock tower (on ebay at the moment and is semi circular handle tower for a good price) and that is almost unbreakable so will give major strength to the front gear box so no need to replace that.

Im unsure, try it without weights and work from there. As per my previous pictures I use brass weights in the centre of the chassis closer to the rear, also under the Lipo cells and it jumps well. You may need to adjust the one way to get a bit of free wheel spin on the front so that you can get a bit of over steer as I found that total 4wd 50/50 makes the car understeer.

Oh yeah I forgot to add the pics of my front and rear hubs. There are plenty on this site somewhere if you want more.
welshy, that MMS shock tower is pricey, is there any alternative from fibrelyte? i may skip buying that lazer cause mine has many more upgrades, like red finned motor plate, and i already have all the aluminium arm braces. where should i get a 1 piece top deck? any link for RW parts? you havent told me about the front gearbox yet, any line on that ?
Thanks a bunch !

[isobarik]

Ron

deffo lazer is he blind or what ????

Alcyon i can get the la-32 for you if you need them let me know how many .

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

Ron

deffo lazer is he blind or what ????

Alcyon i can get the la-32 for you if you need them let me know how many .

mvh Isobarik
iso, remember you were talking about LA245? someone said LA245 will fit on optima mid with a little shimming, that means will fit on lazer too. i will buy a pair soon. see this forum.
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50728
you mean originals or repros for LA32? i guess i need 2 ?

[Welshy40]

iso, remember you were talking about LA245? someone said LA245 will fit on optima mid with a little shimming, that means will fit on lazer too. i will buy a pair soon. see this forum.
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50728
you mean originals or repros for LA32? i guess i need 2 ?

Doesnt always mean it will fit an optima mid if it works on a lazer.

[Welshy40]

welshy, that MMS shock tower is pricey, is there any alternative from fibrelyte? i may skip buying that lazer cause mine has many more upgrades, like red finned motor plate, and i already have all the aluminium arm braces. where should i get a 1 piece top deck? any link for RW parts? you havent told me about the front gearbox yet, any line on that ?
Thanks a bunch !

Fibrelyte do the same and also various top decks. Make sure you order the correct one.

Rwracing is just that on google uk. Email or call him and say the 100t 48dp for the lazer with hexes on either side like on the b4 spurs that James Instone designed and he will know.

[alcyon]

Doesnt always mean it will fit an optima mid if it works on a lazer.
i think it will, becuase i used Lazer Suspension and lazer Ujs on my mid before and it goes in perfectly. any way i will be the guinea pig , so no risk for you guys !
welshy, from your post about adding rear weight to the ZX, it seems to me you are saying the rear end isnt heavy enough? what will the consequence be if left as it is? loss of rear traction? also how do you guys fit a saddle pack lipo under the top deck? becuase eventhough there is about 6mm from the top of lipo to the top deck, how do you guys connect the saddle bridge wire ? did you create a special type of wire? becuase the banana type connector will hit the top deck.

[alcyon]

by the way, who is James Instone ? i saw his name on fibre lyte site.
also can anyone give me the part number for that blue steering parts welshy keeps talking about?

[Welshy40]

by the way, who is James Instone ? i saw his name on fibre lyte site.
also can anyone give me the part number for that blue steering parts welshy keeps talking about?

Blue steering parts on ebay under lazer zx, search and you will find. Much stronger than the original and easier to get rid of all bumpsteer.

James is me. In the 90's i was a serious racer with a few big wins to my name with this car and decided to make sure that parts would still be available years after the car was no longer in production, so my legacy is all flat bits are made by fibre lyte, all copied from my spares (at the time i had all items), kamtec made molds of the lazer zxs and parma tomcat shells so we would still be able to buy shells, i persuade a few people to continue selling belts, redesigned the spur which RW now make to put the slipper system up there with the new cars and a friend of mine - Matt who is a nut like me for kyosho is a plastic specialist so now soon we will have plastic items available for us (hopefully) and im sure ive missed a few other things ive done, plus redesigned the chassis, top deck, lipo tray.

[oli4ke]

by the way, who is James Instone ? i saw his name on fibre lyte site.
also can anyone give me the part number for that blue steering parts welshy keeps talking about?

Alcyon try part number 39655 on ebay!

[alcyon]

hello guys and thanks for all your help, how old are you guys anyway? i am 35 and been into rc since 1990. i hail from a banana republic called malaysia.
maybe you have seent this video, posted by me on youtube, at the time i havent got a lazer yet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eO0KqMiIFQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rt6VTtCb8mo&feature=related

enjoy the trip down memory lane.
P.S i was pretty nerdy kid back then, i dont look nerdy anymore lol.

[rondoolaa]

can anyone give me the part number for that blue steering parts welshy keeps talking about?



here they are,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-39655-Servo-Saver-Lazer-ZX-ZXR-ZX-S-Superten-NIP-/300592594209?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item45fcb6fd21#ht_500wt_969


on the age thing i'm 42, i started racing somewhere between 1987 and 1990, but used to mess about on the beach etc with a hornet and frog a lot earlier than that, when i was a kid

[oli4ke]

hello guys and thanks for all your help, how old are you guys anyway? i am 35 and been into rc since 1990. i hail from a banana republic called malaysia.
maybe you have seent this video, posted by me on youtube, at the time i havent got a lazer yet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eO0KqMiIFQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rt6VTtCb8mo&feature=related

enjoy the trip down memory lane.
P.S i was pretty nerdy kid back then, i dont look nerdy anymore lol.

:D
Good old days...... I'm 34 and also since 1990 in rc.

[Welshy40]

Started messing about in 80's and went serious into club and event in 89. Im still a big kid tho i am 38

[peetbee]

Blue steering parts on ebay under lazer zx, search and you will find. Much stronger than the original and easier to get rid of all bumpsteer.

meh, broke my steering tonight, hope they are stronger at that price!

[alcyon]

guys, i finally rummaged through my lazer parts last night, and found all i could, but the bad news is i am missing the front and rear outer alloy arm braces, i do have the inner ones though. i am also missing the front part of the gearbox, the rear part of the front gearbox is intact though. Lucky for me i found a pair of new Lazer inner hingepins last week at the bargain bin. i see some of you have made blue mc nylon braces, anyone can sell them to me? also i feel that my belts are too far gone, they dont move too smoothly. I measured them at 5mm width, do any of you know the belt codes so that i can order them locally, like is the belt S3M standard? how many tooth, i want to get them looped at 4mm width to reduce drivetrain drag. one last ditch effort is i will be going to my moms house after work today and try to find the arm braces, i hope they are there.

[Welshy40]

meh, broke my steering tonight, hope they are stronger at that price!

Did you talk to Matt? He may be able to sort you out.

[Welshy40]

guys, i finally rummaged through my lazer parts last night, and found all i could, but the bad news is i am missing the front and rear outer alloy arm braces, i do have the inner ones though. i am also missing the front part of the gearbox, the rear part of the front gearbox is intact though. Lucky for me i found a pair of new Lazer inner hingepins last week at the bargain bin. i see some of you have made blue mc nylon braces, anyone can sell them to me? also i feel that my belts are too far gone, they dont move too smoothly. I measured them at 5mm width, do any of you know the belt codes so that i can order them locally, like is the belt S3M standard? how many tooth, i want to get them looped at 4mm width to reduce drivetrain drag. one last ditch effort is i will be going to my moms house after work today and try to find the arm braces, i hope they are there.

Ebay worldwide belts are there made by a different company. Lazer zx is what you need to put in and just search and you will find.

[peetbee]

Did you talk to Matt? He may be able to sort you out.

I didnt think of that! Bri was going check for me!

[alcyon]

Ebay worldwide belts are there made by a different company. Lazer zx is what you need to put in and just search and you will find.
anything for the arm braces ? by the way is there any solution to the thrust bearing? i hate putting that kyosho loose ball system together, you need the precision of a surgeon. any other brands of one piece thrust bearings that will fit?

[alcyon]

from my 1990 rc car action magazine
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/PICT3093.jpg

[alcyon]

Iso,

As requested, front, rear, side from rear so you can see the position of the top wishbone, and rear blurred image is of the brass gearbox and you can also make out the brass top deck mount.

It goes really well now with the 511 shocks, 50 wt front and 40 wt rear with Tamiya blue springs rear and Losi Red (I think front) with the RPM ball joints on the rear to give that little more ground clearance.

I may now be tempted to run it on the Eden Park track if its hot. Now this can handle any brushless motor (currently have a Losi 4.5 in it) and belts don't break due to the tension. Bad point is the rear shock tower mount as the standard item is super brittle and one roll your buggered. Get one made of alloy like mine.

PS pay particular attention to the hexes as this makes a substantial difference in handling characteristics.

:thumbsup:
that battery holdwon looks uncannily like the AE B44s !

[Welshy40]

that battery holdwon looks uncannily like the AE B44s !

Yup just the poles, the tray is my design only for zxs, and my zxr one is specifically for that as well.

[isobarik]

anyhting for the arm braces ? by the way is there any solution to the thrush bearing? i hate outting that kyosho loose ball system together, you need the precision of a surgeon. any other brands of one piece thrust bearings that will fit?

Do you mean the trust bearing for the diffs ??? if soo no i have no solution then stock item .

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

Do you mean the trust bearing for the diffs ??? if soo no i have no solution then stock item .

mvh Isobarik
yes the thrust bearing for the ball diffs! sorry didnt know where my head went to. how come no one still have not talked to me about the arm braces? i thought some of you have made them up to sell? anyone knows the belt standard? is it S3M ?

[alcyon]

Fibrelyte do the same and also various top decks. Make sure you order the correct one.

Rwracing is just that on google uk. Email or call him and say the 100t 48dp for the lazer with hexes on either side like on the b4 spurs that James Instone designed and he will know.
i am also missing the pressure plates that goes on the spur gear. if i buy the RW Spur, will i still need those plates?
i checked fibrelyte website for the Lazer parts, under lazer zx James Instone version, and i am interested in the front mount 1. since that is in a loop, is it as strong as the MMS version ? its also cheaper, and i want to buy 1 for my optima mid and 1 for my lazer.

[oli4ke]

i am also missing the pressure plates that goes on the spur gear. if i buy the RW Spur, will i still need those plates?
i checked fibrelyte website for the Lazer parts, under lazer zx James Instone version, and i am interested in the front mount 1. since that is in a loop, is it as strong as the MMS version ? its also cheaper, and i want to buy 1 for my optima mid and 1 for my lazer.

OT-88 You can find on ebay!
I have an address in Taiwan they have OT-88 in stock as well, Taiwan is maybe interesting / cheaper for you.....

[Welshy40]

i think it will, becuase i used Lazer Suspension and lazer Ujs on my mid before and it goes in perfectly. any way i will be the guinea pig , so no risk for you guys !
welshy, from your post about adding rear weight to the ZX, it seems to me you are saying the rear end isnt heavy enough? what will the consequence be if left as it is? loss of rear traction? also how do you guys fit a saddle pack lipo under the top deck? becuase eventhough there is about 6mm from the top of lipo to the top deck, how do you guys connect the saddle bridge wire ? did you create a special type of wire? becuase the banana type connector will hit the top deck.

Basically yes, the back end needs to be set up so that it corresponds with the front (link is here for them http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=4838 ), and the only way I find to get it to work is by adding weight, specifically under the cells on either side and in the centre back end of the chassis so from the middle cells on the saddles to the motor. This aids jumping and balance under power. You can try as it and see as it may suit your style of driving, me I like aggressive. I base my weight on NICAD and NIMH cells and work around my original successful settings when using those cells.

I uses a corrally clip or equivalent with a flat top and solder onto that and use tape to stop a short circuit if the cells are close. I just U it under and have the battery holes forward facing on the chassis. I have also raised the top deck by 1.5mm and used 1.5 washers for the big screws ad Tamiya 1.5 washers for the two centre posts at the top. I did this due to adding two brass plates under the Lipo's but you may find the cells fit perfectly. I use Vampire 4400 and are the same height as a NIMH pack of cells.

[Welshy40]

anyhting for the arm braces ? by the way is there any solution to the thrush bearing? i hate outting that kyosho loose ball system together, you need the precision of a surgeon. any other brands of one piece thrust bearings that will fit?

You can still buy the spares from Kyosho or on ebay and there is another solution which is sweet . Buy the balls (you will need to measure them and get the two sizes accurate and email RCLazy and buy the ceramic balls. Once you fit these I would recommend buying the Nuclear RC diff grease for the balls and thrust grease for the thrust balls. Don't over tighten when you have built it, but enough to stop slippage. Run for a race and then re tighten and job done, its set and is smooth big time.

[Welshy40]

i am also missing the pressure plates that goes on the spur gear. if i buy the RW Spur, will i still need those plates?
i checked fibrelyte website for the Lazer parts, under lazer zx James Instone version, and i am interested in the front mount 1. since that is in a loop, is it as strong as the MMS version ? its also cheaper, and i want to buy 1 for my optima mid and 1 for my lazer.

All depends on what layshaft you have. If you have the ZX then yes you need the two huge washers that attach to the front plate and the rear layshaft hub, and they and are out there on ebay. If the MMS one looks like the one against my name then yes its a copy of that, but I am going to modify that next month so may be worth holding off buying it for a few weeks until I am happy with it. I need another hold added.

[Welshy40]

OT-88 You can find on ebay!
I have an address in Taiwan they have OT-88 in stock as well, Taiwan is maybe interesting / cheaper for you.....

I think he either means LA3 or LA5 or LA6

[alcyon]

All depends on what layshaft you have. If you have the ZX then yes you need the two huge washers that attach to the front plate and the rear layshaft hub, and they and are out there on ebay. If the MMS one looks like the one against my name then yes its a copy of that, but I am going to modify that next month so may be worth holding off buying it for a few weeks until I am happy with it. I need another hold added.
ok i will hold off until you redesigned it. i am trying very hard to get a good deal on a ZX or a ZXR-r, just have to be patient, i know they are out there !

[Welshy40]

The blue special unicrank may be possibly in a shop now in the UK
http://www.gladstons.com/shop/ for only £6.50 so worth buying.

There is also an LA31 listed but unfortunately there was only one and I bought it so now no more in stock. I am after a couple more of these though so anyone have any ideas where I can find at leats three more?

[peetbee]

Cheers James, have ordered so will see what that gets me!
Glad I hadn't ordered off ebay yet :D

[alcyon]

i am now officialy a club member, welshy, i just bought that Mk2 that you said was worth the money! cant wait till it gets to me so that i can show some rear end to the new shaft cars !
i have a few questions before i run it.
1. Is the Mk2 spur gear 48p dp the same standard as optima mid or it normal 48p ? Will the RW spur be a direct fit on the layshaft?
2. The car came with the old style shocks, using the screw tightened shock clips. are todays threaded shcoks superior to these, or are they fine ? Cause i know for on road, having threaded shock bodies eases tweak setting, is it essential for off road?
3. Is the ZX-5 Shocks usable on this car? Is 3 racing shocks inferior to the old kyosho originals ?
4. should i wait and get the ZX-r loop shock tower from fibrelyte before running this car? if thats the case i will take the battery mounting system out and place it in my optima mid, until i can get the shock towers. which shock tower would allow me to use a Optima mid special body? or should i jyust get a ZX shock tower for this car?
5. I heard that the ZX-R mk2 is a rear heavy car and "too stable" that means understeers slightly. i know you like a twithcy car welshy, but for some one like me who likes a stable and easy to drive car, i should just go stock ?
6. you have said that the mk2 is an average car becuase of its layout? can you elaborate?
7. if i do not like the mk2, it should be possible to swap the chassis, top deck, motor plate, and the gearbox support to top deck mount, with the same parts from the ZX, to change the way the car feels ?

[oli4ke]

Guys looking for turbo optima mid special w5023 rims. 1 set needed! Can somebody help me......??
Many thanks in advance

[Welshy40]

i am now officialy a club member, welshy, i just bought that Mk2 that you said was worth the money! cant wait till it gets to me so that i can show some rear end to the new shaft cars !
i have a few questions before i run it.
1. Is the Mk2 spur gear 48p dp the same standard as optima mid or it normal 48p ? Will the RW spur be a direct fit on the layshaft?
The spur wont fit the Mid, but if you have the hyperclutch (cant remember) then yes it will fit but if you do once you have got the hang of driving and have set it up go for a 6.5 or 5.5 id recommend getting a zx or zxr mk1 slipper clutch so you can upgrade with the sc10 slipper pads to handle the power.

2. The car came with the old style shocks, using the screw tightened shock clips. are todays threaded shcoks superior to these, or are they fine ? Cause i know for on road, having threaded shock bodies eases tweak setting, is it essential for off road? I use associated or traxxas shocks on my car and they are not threaded. I do put associated spring holders top and bottom of spring as they are the best design out there. Threaded is just easier but no different in what the shock does. I do like the kyosho ones tho so may be a good idea to get either those or associated, not 3racing as they are not that good.

3. Is the ZX-5 Shocks usable on this car? Is 3 racing shocks inferior to the old kyosho originals ? 3 racing are inferior, ZX-5 normal size shocks would be perfect for it.

4. should i wait and get the ZX-r loop shock tower from fibrelyte before running this car? if thats the case i will take the battery mounting system out and place it in my optima mid, until i can get the shock towers. which shock tower would allow me to use a Optima mid special body? or should i jyust get a ZX shock tower for this car? Loop tower is much stronger than anything else so is adviseable as it will save you a few gearboxes. You can use whatever shock towers you want as the zx-s shell will fit that without a problem. The mid special body is what the zxs shell is but with air scoops included and does look much better. Also comes with undertray for a small amount of money from kamtec.
5. I heard that the ZX-R mk2 is a rear heavy car and "too stable" that means understeers slightly. i know you like a twithcy car welshy, but for some one like me who likes a stable and easy to drive car, i should just go stock ? Yes stay stock and try until you have the right feel.
6. you have said that the mk2 is an average car becuase of its layout? can you elaborate? Its not as good in my opinion. If you race on carpet you cannot get the car to corner correctly due to the battery position and the way they have moved the motor mount so isnt as good on all types of surfaces as they Mk1 or ZX. However the changes are minimal to get it to the Mk1 (top deck, chassis and L brace for above the motor).
7. if i do not like the mk2, it should be possible to swap the chassis, top deck, motor plate, and the gearbox support to top deck mount, with the same parts from the ZX, to change the way the car feels ?Yes thats correct. Doubt it though for a while until you have got used to it. You most probably wont change a thing, I just like stupid steering and you may find that the car is sorted as it is. ....

[alcyon]

....
Welshy thanks so much for the detailed info, when i asked the first question, i wasnt asking if the RW spur will fit on the Mid, what i meant was the Mid uses 48dp standard, so my pinion choices are limited. Is the stock spur on the Mk2 and the RW spur 48p or 48dp? if its 48p then its easy for me to get pinions.
Again thanks so much for the information.

[isobarik]

Alcyon


there are 2 spurs LA-2 wich are 88 teeth 0,5 module or something like that
and the TM-7 wich uses 48 pitch and have 100 teeth.


mvh Isobarik

[Honeybadger]

Guys looking for turbo optima mid special w5023 rims. 1 set needed! Can somebody help me......??
Many thanks in advance

Is it these wheels or the ones with the holes?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v397/Pau1/RC%20Stuff/IMAG0118.jpg

[oli4ke]

Is it these wheels or the ones with the holes?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v397/Pau1/RC%20Stuff/IMAG0118.jpg

The yellow ones with the holes.
They are standard on the turbo optima mid special, W-5023 are the rear ones.

[Honeybadger]

http://www.vintagekyosho.com/ob/ohparts/W-5023.JPG

[oli4ke]

Yes, those ones.... Is it your set of rims? Are they for sale?

[Welshy40]

Welshy thanks so much for the detailed info, when i asked the first question, i wasnt asking if the RW spur will fit on the Mid, what i meant was the Mid uses 48dp standard, so my pinion choices are limited. Is the stock spur on the Mk2 and the RW spur 48p or 48dp? if its 48p then its easy for me to get pinions.
Again thanks so much for the information.

As Iso has already said it, Mid is a .5 and the Lazer was the first buggy that went from .6 to 48dp so the ZXR MK 1 and MK2 have 100 teeth 48dp spur gears and these can be used on ZX, ZXR Mk1 and 2. Also my design spur works on all as well and is also 100 teeth 48dp spur.

[peetbee]

The blue special unicrank may be possibly in a shop now in the UK
http://www.gladstons.com/shop/ for only £6.50 so worth buying.
none in stock :cry:

[Welshy40]

Pete, i will have a look round for you and let you know.

[peetbee]

Thanks James, Matt's pretty sure that he can help me out :thumbsup:

[rondoolaa]

none in stock :cry:




http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-39655-Servo-Saver-Lazer-ZX-ZXR-ZX-S-Superten-NIP-/300592594209?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item45fcb6fd21

[alcyon]

Looks like there is a buggy race coming up in a little over 2 weeks

http://www.rctech.net/forum/malaysian-r-c-racers/554561-1-10-ep-buggy-challenge-ss19-buggy-track.html

depending on the parts that arrives to me before that time, i have a dilemma , use the Optima mid or the Lazer? anyone got LA-3 and LA-5 for sale?

[isobarik]

none in stock :cry:


i think i have like 6 sets or something like that .....

if you have the need for it ...

mvh isobarik

[rondoolaa]

if anyone on here lives near Merthyr Tydfil you could get a bargain,

i've asked the seller 3 times to offer postage and i will bid a good ammount, but to no avail, no replies to all 3 messages,

someone is going to get a bargain....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Kyosho-lazer-zx-rr-4wd-1-10-scale-Buggy-/320761880309?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4aaee5def5#ht_500wt_1156

[Welshy40]

They will most probably use the cash on drugs anyway as there is not much there and not much to do either.

[alcyon]

hi guys, Oli just did my first purchase with you. i received My lazer hubs from B & H today and did some assembling on my Mid. Found a few things i didnt know. i am running out of kingpins ! i only have 4, enough for 1 car ! i need another bag ! is the kingpin for the optima Mid and Lazer the same? as far as i remembered they were.
Also i found another problem with LA-59. When i tried to screw in the lower kingpin, the whole knuckle binded and couldnt turn, i did some investigation and found that the upper side of the c hub is 4mm thickness, and the lower is 6mm. At the top side, when i tighthen the kingpin down, it doesnt bind, but at the bottom it does. Do i have to grind off 2mm from the lower side of LA-59? i think this problem also occurs for LA-27 ? If kyosho knew about this problem, why did they still mold them these way, they actually expect their customers to grind it themselves ?
Also , Welshy, you said that assembling LA59 with the inner hole to push out the front, if i didnt do that and used the outer hole (less track) what would the effect be? would the car have less steering or more ?

[isobarik]

if i dont remember wrong there should be shorter and longer king pins....

mvh Isobarik

[oli4ke]

if i dont remember wrong there should be shorter and longer king pins....

mvh Isobarik

Correct Iso! The king pins from the lazer series are long ones =LA-21
The king pins from the optima mid series are short ones = OT-4

[Welshy40]

hi guys, Oli just did my first purchase with you. i received My lazer hubs from B & H today and did some assembling on my Mid. Found a few things i didnt know. i am running out of kingpins ! i only have 4, enough for 1 car ! i need another bag ! is the kingpin for the optima Mid and Lazer the same? as far as i remembered they were.
Also i found another problem with LA-59. When i tried to screw in the lower kingpin, the whole knuckle binded and couldnt turn, i did some investigation and found that the upper side of the c hub is 4mm thickness, and the lower is 6mm. At the top side, when i tighthen the kingpin down, it doesnt bind, but at the bottom it does. Do i have to grind off 2mm from the lower side of LA-59? i think this problem also occurs for LA-27 ? If kyosho knew about this problem, why did they still mold them these way, they actually expect their customers to grind it themselves ?
Also , Welshy, you said that assembling LA59 with the inner hole to push out the front, if i didnt do that and used the outer hole (less track) what would the effect be? would the car have less steering or more ?

Firstly king pins. Make sure you use the items that are in the manual otherwise you will have problems. Me I used to loose a lot but then started using thread lock. WHen installing I would suggest doing the bottom first but only tighten up gently until it gets tight, then do the same with the top and then gradually move each a turn until its spot on. I have also used a washer and normal hex screws and is as good but you need to make sure there is zero slop in the washer. Its not the best design and if there is any slop on the UJ the vibration does tend to make the bottom king pin vibrate out so worth thread locking in and checking regularly. Look at the manuals for the ZX and ZXR, ZXRR as on one of the kits, I believe ZXRR they use hex washers that fit flush into the castor blocks and you use a screw to screw into the washers and that way you have a better option if you find zero king pins.

With the wider front end the car is much more stable, and much more forgiving but has much more steering. The standard setting is ok but understeers more and is hard to find a setup that is easy to drive. When I opted for the wider front I went from last in the Welsh Championship the previous year to fifth. The next year I lost the title by one point, but the car was a different animal with a wider front end.

I then several years later tried a fractionally narrower rear end and that gave more control so the rear followed the front and didn't want to bite and grip roll, so made the car more intense into and out of corners so you could use the power more and pull a gap when needed on the infield.

Try the standard car first and make your own mind up, all the info is on here and radiocontrolzone with all my design ideas and what was good and what was not. Hope this is of some use.

[alcyon]

Correct Iso! The king pins from the lazer series are long ones =LA-21
The king pins from the optima mid series are short ones = OT-4
Oli you have LA-21 ?

[alcyon]

Basically yes, the back end needs to be set up so that it corresponds with the front (link is here for them http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=4838 ), and the only way I find to get it to work is by adding weight, specifically under the cells on either side and in the centre back end of the chassis so from the middle cells on the saddles to the motor. This aids jumping and balance under power. You can try as it and see as it may suit your style of driving, me I like aggressive. I base my weight on NICAD and NIMH cells and work around my original successful settings when using those cells.

I uses a corrally clip or equivalent with a flat top and solder onto that and use tape to stop a short circuit if the cells are close. I just U it under and have the battery holes forward facing on the chassis. I have also raised the top deck by 1.5mm and used 1.5 washers for the big screws ad Tamiya 1.5 washers for the two centre posts at the top. I did this due to adding two brass plates under the Lipo's but you may find the cells fit perfectly. I use Vampire 4400 and are the same height as a NIMH pack of cells.
welshy, i need at least a pair of those corally clips, could you sell a pair or two to me if you have extras? i dont want to register again at demon, i have registered at so many places recently, and in all likelihood i will only buy the clips and nothing else.

[Welshy40]

Im in the same boat and tend to avoid using Demon anyway as i prefer to talk to someone and try to avoid buying online. I would have spent a grand with him this year alone but as he isnt the brightest of individuals and wont deal with you over the phone i now shop elsewhere. Sorry.

[oli4ke]

Oli you have LA-21 ?

Yes, done mate!:D

[isobarik]

Ron they are on theire way same as for you Ema.

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

Im in the same boat and tend to avoid using Demon anyway as i prefer to talk to someone and try to avoid buying online. I would have spent a grand with him this year alone but as he isnt the brightest of individuals and wont deal with you over the phone i now shop elsewhere. Sorry.
silly me, i checked with my local hobby shop, he says he has them, will be buying tonight.

[alcyon]

look what i found guys. i also found a lot of OT-17, OT-18 and OT-5 but didnt buy those.
fixing the ZX arms last night, i found out what ema told me before, if using the outer hole on LA-59, the front track width with the 2.2" wheels is narrower than the back. i dont know why the front wheels are offset in, and the rear wheels offset out. so the only choice i have is to install LA-59 using the inner hole and 65.5 CVD. problem is, with the inner hole, the caster angle is more, which is good, but the hubs pivot at an angle, that means friction on the arms. looks like i have to grind the inner rear part of the arms also. Another funny thing is the lower rib on OT-16 seem to be hitting the back part of the arm. looks like i have to do more grinding. looks like rc car action was right in their november 91 issue. No one at kyosho ever built a Lazer !

[alcyon]

sorry Oli, there were no rims at all in the shop ! i am reposting the pic cause the earlier one had an error.

[Welshy40]

Im confused on your comments, attach pics please as I get no binding or grinding at all.

[alcyon]

Welshy, i meant the binding occurs only at near or full shock stroke, with the arms parrallel, you will not notice any binding. whether you place the hingepins in the inner or outer hole, the binding will happen on the rib on OT-16 knuckle, at full shock stroke. but if you place the hingepins on the inner hole, you get additional caster, and also the c hub rubs a little on the inner part of the arm, becuase of its angle. look at the 3 pictures i attached. you can see the c hub tends to touch the arms the further in they go. and notice the angle the hub is pivoting at, that gives it the caster.
to test the effect on your car, you probably need to disasemble the upper link, and the servo connection, then try to move the hub at full negative camber, then move the kuckle left and right, both at zero camber and negative camber, with shocks at full stroke. lastly read this article from rc car action november 91, written by frank masi, concentrate on the chapter bump and grind.
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-0005.jpg

[isobarik]

Alcyon yes a little dremling is always neaded.
You dont have the hole article scanned ????

Shall post some pics soon of my daughters racer as soon as i get the body painted, there i have the sp-107 and LA-219 parts on so that you can se. if it will do the job.

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

Im still confused.

If you have issues such as steering where you get toe in or toe out when you disconnect the shocks from the buggy totally and just up the wishbone and drop it then that means the actual steering section on the chassis is not correct and you will need to space the steering plate from the steering plastic parts (preferably the steering plate for the ZX is better that the ZXR) to zero the bump steer. This is what I believe your on about. I cant understand that if your talking about the knuckle arms how your getting binding in any position unless and this is the big question, what are the front wishbones your using as if not Kyosho then explains why your getting this problem.

Relating to the bump & grind chapter - If Kyosho wishbones I have had to file a little chunk off in the wishbone (in second picture you can just make out a groove for the bottom of the screw to go into as I couldn't be bothered to cut the screw bottom off) to account for the knuckle arms full lock, but when done the steering lock is plenty and no more is needed. Pics are attached of mine and in the inner hole of the castor block so giving a much wider front end.

The write up on the magazine isn't that accurate but then again this was written not long after the car got released and used a lot of items that were made by A&L and hate to say it but the steering items and various other items including the alloy front castor block which bends big time on impact (I've had and tested to destruction most things for this car) that were used were not as good, in my opinion anyway. I did however use the motor mount as it was good to use with the rear top deck mount as these did dissipate the heat from the motor so you could gear much higher, and of course the pivot block holders.

Update me with more info as I would like to get to resolve all of your issues so you can get out there and have some fun.

[alcyon]

If you have issues such as steering where you get toe in or toe out when you disconnect the shocks from the buggy totally and just up the wishbone and drop it then that means the actual steering section on the chassis is not correct and you will need to space the steering plate from the steering plastic parts (preferably the steering plate for the ZX is better that the ZXR) to zero the bump steer. what are the front wishbones your using as if not Kyosho then explains why your getting this problem. welshy, i am not talking about disconnecting the shocks or bump steer, bump steer is a problem i will have to fix later. my shocks are connected , but my steering linkages arent. my shocks are at full extension, using the outer most hole on the arm. i beleive with kyosho arms there will be some problems also becuase the article did say so. but to be sure i could always try kyosho arms. i am now using THE MPP arms, but i beleive they have copied all the spacings well.At full shock extension, the rib on OT-16 is rubbing a little against the arm, there is some noticable friction although not so great, but i beleive this could effect steering when the one of the front wheels leave the ground.

Relating to the bump & grind chapter - If Kyosho wishbones I have had to file a little chunk off in the wishbone (in second picture you can just make out a groove for the bottom of the screw to go into as I couldn't be bothered to cut the screw bottom off) to account for the knuckle arms full lock, but when done the steering lock is plenty and no more is needed. Pics are attached of mine and in the inner hole of the castor block so giving a much wider front end.

The write up on the magazine isn't that accurate but then again this was written not long after the car got released and used a lot of items that were made by A&L and hate to say it but the steering items and various other items including the alloy front castor block which bends big time on impact (I've had and tested to destruction most things for this car) that were used were not as good, in my opinion anyway. I did however use the motor mount as it was good to use with the rear top deck mount as these did dissipate the heat from the motor so you could gear much higher, and of course the pivot block holders.

Update me with more info as I would like to get to resolve all of your issues so you can get out there and have some fun.Thanks so much for your help and concern, i appreciate it.
....

[alcyon]

Alcyon yes a little dremling is always neaded.
You dont have the hole article scanned ????

Shall post some pics soon of my daughters racer as soon as i get the body painted, there i have the sp-107 and LA-219 parts on so that you can se. if it will do the job.

mvh isobarik
iso, i have the whole magazine, and the whole article scanned, but its in so many pages, you want to see all of it ?

[Welshy40]

You know what i think the issue may be, simplest solution may be the answer. As you can see im using the same knuckle arms and going by what you say the wishbones are identical then it could be just the way the king pins have been screwed in. One question i never asked but are the hubs from the zx/zxr or zx-5 or zx-s? Now if from the zx-5 or s then the spacers (washers) need to be done correctly, personally i use the biggest washer from the castor block pack and skinny at the bottom of the knuckle arm and a skinny at the top as that stops the metal flange hitting the wishbone. i forgot about that so apologies for not mentioning it earlier.

[isobarik]

iso, i have the whole magazine, and the whole article scanned, but its in so many pages, you want to see all of it ?


Yeah would love to see all of it.

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

sorry for the late reply guys. my boss was breathing down my neck, and then after i left for home had to do the household plumbing, otherwise the wifey will think i am pretty useless.
i am using LA-59 . i solved the problem by grinding the hubs and arms, and also switching OT-16 to the opposite sides, that means right go to left and vice versa. i find that the ribs in this arrangement is a little bit higher, so i have to grind the arms less. all is cool now guys, just botched up my tyre gluing, i am now trying to remove the glue with some acetone, then i will re glue with a rubber band pressing around the tyres. i am using pro line M3. these super soft modern tyres arent easy to glue right.
iso, i will upload the rest of the articles from my office to my photobucket tommorow morning. gotta sleep now.

[alcyon]

Iso as i promised, here they are, enjoy everyone !
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-00012.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-0001.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-0005.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-0003.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-00052.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-0006.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-00072.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-0004.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x87/alcyon2sp/DOC080911-0008.jpg

[alcyon]

i just received mY lazer ZX-R Mk2. the condition is very good, and i took some time to have a look at the cars individual parts, here is what i found.
1. the chassis and bearings, diffs have very little wear, the slipper clutch is also in very good condition, the pads are very thick.
2. The tyres are shot, and the shocks need rebuilding.
3. The drive train isnt as smooth as my optima Mid. i think this is normal? i do remember that about my ZX too, cause the belts have many points of "friction" in the gearboxes. To those of you who own both the optima Mid and Lazer, do you agree with me that the Mids drivetrain is smoother, or perhaps there is something wrong with my lazer?
4. It is possible to place the lipo more forward, and make them come closer together under the top deck. but i will have to drill 4 new holes to mount the battery posts. Question is should i stick to the Kyosho posts and bar (80mm spacing), or use the AE B44 posts and Bar (75mm spacing). i tried putting some spacers under the original posts and clamp the lipo, but i beleive under hard knocks and jumps, the lipo will probably shake loose. should a screw clamping system like the B44's be better, even without a lipo tray? the good news is the chassis has PLENTY of space for me to drill new holes. i am still waiting for my B44 battery holder parts to come before making a final decision.

[rondoolaa]

Ron they are on their way, same as for you Ema.

mvh Isobarik

thankyou henrik,

would you prefer me to send you some money for them or search down a few of the parts you mentioned in the list although i think i will have as much luck as you at finding the parts, as i will be using the same web, lol, i know a couple are available but most of them i couldnt find


thanks for the magazine pics alcyon, great read

[isobarik]

thankyou henrik,

would you prefer me to send you some money for them or search down a few of the parts you mentioned in the list although i think i will have as much luck as you at finding the parts, as i will be using the same web, lol, i know a couple are available but most of them i couldnt find


thanks for the magazine pics alcyon, great read

Ron

You just have to wait i have some plans............ he he he :D

Welsh in the need of an cheap gardener ????

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

There is an UK based shop that sells stainless stell screws but what the heck is the name ???

Found it..........rcscrews.co.uk

for those who like to know my PM inbox is not full any more

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

thankyou henrik,



thanks for the magazine pics alcyon, great read
thanks, nice to have an appreciative audience.
By the way welshy, i tried my car at the track yesterday and found it kinda dissapointing, it handle the rough sections well but didnt have enough steering. i was looking at other peoples cars and all theirs were much lower than mine. i surmise its becuase the 3 racing springs i used were longer than the original kyoshos. i cut the front springs about 10mm which lowered the front end and it made a difference in steering, but i have too much droop now. Just wondering how much droop is necessary? and the arms should be poitning a little upwards at right height? cause i notice no one sets their arms parallel anymore.

[Welshy40]

thanks, nice to have an appreciative audience.
By the way welshy, i tried my car at the track yesterday and found it kinda dissapointing, it handle the rough sections well but didnt have enough steering. i was looking at other peoples cars and all theirs were much lower than mine. i surmise its becuase the 3 racing springs i used were longer than the original kyoshos. i cut the front springs about 10mm which lowered the front end and it made a difference in steering, but i have too much droop now. Just wondering how much droop is necessary? and the arms should be poitning a little upwards at right height? cause i notice no one sets their arms parallel anymore.

What surface are you running on?

[alcyon]

What surface are you running on?
there are certain sections of the track that is loose sand, certain sections grass and most of it where the jumps are , is some kind of hard pack dirt, i guees you could call it clay. i see the other fast drivers set their car low, not bothering if the chassis will slap hard on the big landing. they are more concerned about the corners. here are some pics of the track.http://www.rctech.net/forum/malaysian-r-c-racers/170843-ep-buggies-thread-203.html

[Welshy40]

Firstly I didnt like the three racing shocks or springs for this car, I found that the Kyosho or Associated shocks were a better call for this car. I tend to use associated springs on mine now on grass and clay (if I do race on it again).

Set up wise mine are for grass and carpet so I would advise getting a setup from other guys on this thread who regularly race on clay. However I will see if I can find a basic set up for you to start off with. I did have the car with Ujs either level or fractionally under level on clay. Also do you have the 4 degree hubs on the front or 7 as that could be the reason why your understeering.

[oli4ke]

Guys, if you are in the need of LA-11 PULLEY SET!!!!!
Nice price.......

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-KYOSHO-LA-11-poulie-transmission-LAZER-ZX-ZXR-/290618312188?pt=FR_YO_Jeux_RadioComRobots_Vehicule sRadiocommandes&hash=item43aa3385fc

[alcyon]

i forgot to ask a very important question, if lets say i want to use gear diffs but want the diff to be tight, what kind of oil can i put in it? keep in mind these kyosho diffs are old school ones without o rings like the modern ones, so what kind of stuff can i put in there to make it tight without it oozing out from the orifices?

[rondoolaa]

i used to stick thickish grease in mine about 20 years ago,

damn i wish i still had that car (lazer-zx), went like a rocket and came 1st or 2nd most races..even against cars 5-8 yrs newer than mine.

i reckon 50,000 or 100,000 diff oil would be pretty thick,

but dont quote me on that, i'm not as well up on these cars as welshy and isobarik, just a novice, lol

[isobarik]

i forgot to ask a very important question, if lets say i want to use gear diffs but want the diff to be tight, what kind of oil can i put in it? keep in mind these kyosho diffs are old school ones without o rings like the modern ones, so what kind of stuff can i put in there to make it tight without it oozing out from the orifices?

My chain optima had thick sticky diff grease in them so i guess you would be fine

mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

I used vaseline packed in but the best option would be a grease either from kyosho fir 1/8th or durango

[HKP]

I used vaseline packed in but the best option would be a grease either from kyosho fir 1/8th or durango

..and let me tell you, it's not the only place he packs vaseline! :p:D

p.s. if anyone wants to buy a ZX-R.. I have one for sale in the For Sale thread. It was been personally touched by Welshy too!

[isobarik]

..and let me tell you, it's not the only place he packs vaseline! :p:D


Funny i have also heard that !!! :D when you say touched does that mean that itis covered in vaseline ????

Ema it has arrived

Ron ...........

mvh Isobarik

[Ema]

Ema it has arrived

mvh Isobarik

Wow, fast delivery :thumbsup: !!!!
The Italian post service did the job right once again ;) ;).

Bye
Ema

[isobarik]

Ema yes it was really fast and it came through the italian post office actually works.

hm ...havent decided if im going to build an all out or what i will do with it.

hm . . .white diffs, white out drives, white layshaft and white susp arms...and finned motorplate/bracket

hm...should be sexy.

mvh isobarik

[alcyon]

i just received my fibrelyte ZX shock towers, and the james instone ones too, they look nice but somehting isnt right for the front mount 1. The camber link holes on the left side and the right side arent equal and symmetric ! on one side there are 4 holes, and on the other 5 holes, and they are all in different positions! what the hell happened? did they get the CADs wrong? also another anoying bit, i thought by now everyone would have figured out all modern turnbuckles use 3mm holes, not the old 2.6 kyoshos...now i will have to redrill the holes to fit in modern ballstuds, blimey.

[isobarik]

Seams like its missing the bottom inner hole otherwise it looks okay hard to see so measure it but by the looks of it its just miss the inner bottom hole.

mvh isobarik

[Welshy40]

..and let me tell you, it's not the only place he packs vaseline! :p:D

p.s. if anyone wants to buy a ZX-R.. I have one for sale in the For Sale thread. It was been personally touched by Welshy too!

Cheeky git hehe.

[Welshy40]

Funny i have also heard that !!! :D when you say touched does that mean that itis covered in vaseline ????

Ema it has arrived

Ron ...........

mvh Isobarik

Another cheeky git hehe

[Welshy40]

i just received my fibrelyte ZX shock towers, and the james instone ones too, they look nice but somehting isnt right for the front mount 1. The camber link holes on the left side and the right side arent equal and symmetric ! on one side there are 4 holes, and on the other 5 holes, and they are all in different positions! what the hell happened? did they get the CADs wrong? also another anoying bit, i thought by now everyone would have figured out all modern turnbuckles use 3mm holes, not the old 2.6 kyoshos...now i will have to redrill the holes to fit in modern ballstuds, blimey.

I just screw in the associated ball joints slowly so theres no damage. No idea why your missing that hole but you wont use the one thats missing anyway. Im on the phone to them re this on monday.

[alcyon]

I just screw in the associated ball joints slowly so theres no damage. No idea why your missing that hole but you wont use the one thats missing anyway. Im on the phone to them re this on monday.
i have redrilled the holes i wanted to 3mm and they work fine. the towers have a lot of mounting holes and i can easily adjust for less droop if i want. yep, its better sort it out with them cause may be some other fellow wont be so forgiving.

[isobarik]

Btw in case any are interested i have found the LA-11 and the LA-1 in alu the LA-11 is not a direct fit.

And the best thing they are NOT covered in vaselin ...:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

Btw in case any are interested i have found the LA-11 and the LA-1 in alu the LA-11 is not a direct fit.

And the best thing they are NOT covered in vaselin ...:thumbsup:

mvh Isobarik

how much are the alu la-1 for 2 ? and how much for 1 la-11,



yay- first to reach page 100

[isobarik]

Damn just because you where the first to 100 i will not tell you how much ....

just kidding 11 and 22 euro each damn they are sexy.

mvh Isobarik

[rondoolaa]

Damn just because you where the first to 100 i will not tell you how much ....

just kidding 11 and 22 euro each damn they are sexy.

mvh Isobarik

is that 11 for the la11 and 22 for housings or other way round,

and do you mean they are both in alloy or just one of them

do you have any pics of these sexy bits

[isobarik]

Yeah its 11 for the LA-11 and 22 for the LA-1 diffpulley and yes both are in alloy .

Shall post the link soon.


mvh Isobarik

[Welshy40]

Iso,

Im after two alloy LA11

[oosh123]

If you guys want, I think I can ask my contacts to make a bunch of alloy la-11.

I just need to draft up the pulley and send it his way.

[oosh123]

Just need to figure out what type of spline is within the pulley

[oosh123]

Also, anyone interested in Kelvar reinforced polyurethane belts?

Same as the SP belts found on the nitro on-road spider and M3.

They are tougher to chip and makes the car a lot smoother.


Not sure if there are anyone selling these belts for lazers elsewhere, but if you do want them, it will take me a month's time to get them produced.

[isobarik]

Also, anyone interested in Kelvar reinforced polyurethane belts?

Same as the SP belts found on the nitro on-road spider and M3.

They are tougher to chip and makes the car a lot smoother.


Not sure if there are anyone selling these belts for lazers elsewhere, but if you do want them, it will take me a month's time to get them produced.

Can you get them in a color besides black ???...

mvh Isobarik

[isobarik]

Well for every one curios here is the link ...

http://www.super-rc.com/index.php?cPath=24_153_157

They have the right sizes

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Can you get them in a color besides black ???...

mvh Isobarik

I believe I can get them in black, white, red (orange-like)

[oosh123]

Well for every one curios here is the link ...

http://www.super-rc.com/index.php?cPath=24_153_157

They have the right sizes

mvh Isobarik

Are you refering the pulleys on the website to LA-11?

I thought the LA-11 have a spline (inner gear -like) pattern in the hole for the side size hubs to go into.

[isobarik]

Are you refering the pulleys on the website to LA-11?

I thought the LA-11 have a spline (inner gear -like) pattern in the hole for the side size hubs to go into.

Yeah they have that pattern but as i wrote earlier its NOT an direct fit.

How much for the red/orange ones and minimum order ???

mvh Isobarik

[oosh123]

Yeah they have that pattern but as i wrote earlier its NOT an direct fit.

How much for the red/orange ones and minimum order ???

mvh Isobarik

Still in the process of quoting. They should reply me tomorrow.

[moth898]

Hey Iso, not to sound ungrateful but did you send those blue c hubs to the right address?

[alcyon]

guys, for offroad surfaces, what tyres give the best grip ?

[peetbee]

guys, for offroad surfaces, what tyres give the best grip ?
what sort of offroad surfaces: grass, clay/dirt, astro?

[Ema]

Not really cheap, however really nice and it is also possible to choose the color :thumbsup: !!!

Ebay items:
- 140622443658
- 140622445755

Bye
Ema

[isobarik]

Not really cheap, however really nice and it is also possible to choose the color :thumbsup: !!!

Ebay items:
- 140622443658
- 140622445755

Bye
Ema

But they where really good looking.

got to order a set i think ...

mvh Isobarik

[alcyon]

what sort of offroad surfaces: grass, clay/dirt, astro?
how about listing each ?